OK, so when did a $20 Kabinett qualify as "VALUE".
C,
J
Wines from around the world to help you stretch your dollar
Jon BonnéLynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writers
Friday, October 31, 2008
Great global value wines (from left): 2007 Corbera Vini I...
With the election soon upon us, there is a lot of focus on domestic policy. But we
can't stop thinking about foreign affairs. Such crucial questions as: What did Obama
mean by Iran talks with no preconditions? Will McCain commit to a specific Iraq timetable?
How can we possibly afford imported wine when the economy, and the dollar, are so weak?
On that last, we have answers. For one, at about $1.30 to the euro, the battle-weary buck
has had the sort of rally that suddenly puts the words "European vacation" back
on the brain. But a combination of cost-efficient production, cheap shipping (usually by
carbon-minimizing container ship) and a bit of currency leverage by savvy importers kept
decent wine from around the world on shelves even in the dollar's worst doldrums. No
question that prices have been going up, in particular on the 2006 vintage from Europe and
some newly arrived 2007s, but even so, it's still easy to find lots to drink under
$20 that keeps you on your geopolitical toes. Given the prices of many domestic wines
these days, it's still a good time to think - and drink - globally.
That goes doubly given how thin our wallets feel these days. Assuming that you don't
want to dip into your (somewhat diminished) 401(k) to fund your holiday party, this also
happens to be the time of year when many of us are thinking about what to buy by the case
and what to serve at the next couple months' dinner parties.
With that in mind, the goal was not merely to find "bargains" but to see how
well we could drink on a budget given the needs of the season. We chose five regions
overseas - and yes, Donald Rumsfeld would kvetch that we paid extra heed to "old
Europe" (sorry, Don, that's where the old, cost-effective vineyards are) - with
an eye on where we could find distinctive wines that were made to stand on their own, not
merely a Chardonnay with a funny name. These are wines with a sense of place.
Added bonus: With the dollar rebounding, prices for imports will likely stabilize, if not
outright drop. What's a good value now could be an even better value by 2009.
Chile
Inexpensive, hearty red wines are widely available, but it may take time and several
bottles to find a young Cabernet Sauvignon with varietal character, acidity, soft tannins
and balance. Look to Chile, which is producing increasing amounts and better quality
Cabernet every year.
Carmenere - a lovely, food-friendly Chilean red - does not have the space on store shelves
that Cabernet Sauvignon does. But most stores have multiple Chilean Cab bottlings.
Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon had an upswing in the mid-1990s because of the shortage of U.S.
Cabernet. During this period, Cab from Chile was average, but subsequently producers have
dedicated more attention to its production and marketing. Chile's moderate,
Mediterranean-like climate, and relative low cost of land and labor contribute to the
reasonable production costs, which result in good consumer value.
Besides well-established local wineries that pump out thousands of cases, well-known
wineries based outside of Chile - including Lafite-Rothschild (Los Vascos), Augustin
Huneeus (Veramonte) and Kendall-Jackson (Caliterra) - have seen the potential.
Chances of scoring a very good bottle of Chilean Cabernet has improved - even for those
priced $12 and less, though the quality can be a bit uneven with many showing some green
herb, stem and more moderate weight than most California bottlings. If you can afford the
$15-$20 range, there is a significant jump in quality and consistency, enough to warrant
pouring at an upscale dinner.
2007 Apaltagua Reserva Apalto Valley Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) This doesn't
scream Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is a nice wine with fruit, structure and balance. The
dark fruit is backed by dried herb and stem that is occasionally present in some of the
less expensive bottlings. Allow some time for this wine to breathe and find its fruit.
Lightly grippy tannins are a plus. (Importer: Global Vineyard Importers)
2006 Casa Lapostolle Rapel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle -
the great granddaughter of Grand Marnier's creator - ages this wine in small French
oak barrels for 12 months. Fairly spicy, with hint of herb underneath the ripe, rather
rich cherry, red plum and cassis that gets close to California-style weight and ripeness.
(Importer: Marnier-Lapostolle)
2006 Cosino-Macul Valle del Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon ($11) Bright juicy dusty Bing cherry
with loam and some aromatic intensity plus an underlying bit of stemminess. This lighter
weight wine tastes of fruit and not just oak, though wood tannins provide structure enough
for simple steaks and burgers. (Importer: Billington Importers)
2006 Hacienda Araucano Valle de Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) From one of
France's best-known wine families - the Lurtons - this solid wine shows a more modern
side. Sweet subdued aromas of bramble fruit, raspberry, wisp of herb and hints of
charcuterie. More textured palate with tart blackberry and glints of cassis against scant
touch of stem and green wood. Food-friendly and great with a meatloaf sandwich. (Importer:
Winesellers)
Loire Valley
Dry, crisp, versatile white wines can be enjoyed as an aperitif, with food or just
because.
France's Loire Valley produces wine from several white grape varieties that fit the
bill: well-known Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, plus Melon de Bourgogne, which makes
Muscadet.
Muscadet, named for the region in which it's grown, remains in the shadow of its
better-known cousins, Sancerre and Pouilly Fume (made from Sauvignon Blanc) and Vouvray
(made from Chenin Blanc). Enjoyable, affordable, food-friendly dry white wine is always in
vogue and Muscadet is a great value.
The Loire Valley lies far north, where cool temperatures are at the lower end of the
grape-ripening range. When grapes ripen here, they retain high acidity and lesser sugar
levels that translate to lively, relatively low-alcohol wines.
Muscadet is the Loire's most-produced white. The best Muscadet subregion is Muscadet
Sevre et Maine.
Some bottlings are also labeled "sur lie." These wines have spent additional
time in contact with yeast, which provides additional flavor and a finer texture.
Minerality, occasional briny notes, lees, subtle tree fruit and lively acidity are
hallmarks of Muscadet, making it a perfect wine for seafood.
Stores that carry Muscadet usually offer only one or two from which to choose. These wine
buyers usually choose carefully, so when you find a Muscadet, odds are that it will be a
good one.
2006 Chateau de la Cantrie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($9) Deep aromas of waxy citrus
peel, faint green pear and a kiss of proofing bread dough. Underlying grapefruit zest with
a bit of pith, which accentuates the nicely textured finish. Rounder, richer and less
acidic than the 2007 bottlings. Comparatively rich; straightforward, quaffable and a good
value. (Importer: Grape Expectations)
2007 Domaine de la Louvetrie Hermine d'Or Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($15)
Vigneron Jo Landron's nervy young wine has delicate stony mineral notes and mild lees
backed with citrus blossom, sweet Meyer lemon and slightly riper fruit than usual. Similar
flavors; lively and dry, with very tart acidity and an occasional zinc note on the finish.
(Importer: K&L Wine Merchants/Latitude Wines)
2007 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($13) Bright and clean with
faint nose of unripe apple, green gooseberry and light yeastiness. More engaging palate
offers lemon and mineral flavors; crisp and bracing with slight lemon peel on the long
finish. From vigneron Marc Olivier. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections/LCM Wines)
2006 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($12) Briny aromas with chalk
and a whiff of salt air introduce subtle pear-like fruit and herb hints. More complex in
the mouth - dark wet stone, mineral and citrus tending to pink grapefruit. Mild and
minerally with classic Muscadet austerity. (Importer: Robert Kacher Selections)
Germany
Explain this, Sherlock: The dollar's in the tank, and yet we go up against
Europe's largest economy and can still get excellent site-driven German wines for
under $20.
You'd almost have to conclude that Germany really, really wants us to try their wine.
And this isn't just Riesling, though the long-awaited upswing in Americans'
Riesling interest (yes, sommeliers, we finally listened to you) has certainly helped.
Instead of a punch line, German Pinot Noir is now a savvy buy, thanks in part to some
overambitious pricing from our homegrown counterparts. Restaurants offer St. Laurent (like
a darker-skinned Pinot) from the Pfalz by the glass.
Granted, it has gotten harder to locate true Einzellage (single-vineyard) bottlings for
under $20, but they can be found, even from the beloved 2007 vintage. With a string of at
least four solid vintages, there's no shortage of good site-specific Riesling. And
there are no shortage of basic (Qualitatswein) bottling from great producers, some in
1-liter bottles for an extra-good deal.
Keep an extra eye out for the '07s. If they lack the overabundant ripeness of 2005,
slow-ripening fruit from one of the longest vintages on record is yielding pretty, lean,
high-acid wines that will age - even for a Kabinett - for a good decade or so, should that
be your thing. And with the dollar slowly getting stronger, and German wines being
somewhat immune to the vintage-pricing frenzy that has hobbled Bordeaux, prices only stand
to get better.
2007 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($19) The wines of
this Ruwer Valley producer are defined by their intense slate-driven mineral character.
Here, that's matched by a silky profile, with aromas of fig and ripe apple amid the
rigid mineral crunch. Delicate and just slightly nectar-tinged on the palate, with a lean,
laser-like finish. Fabulous acidity. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines)
2007 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Drachenstein Dragonstone Rheingau Riesling ($18) Johannes
Leitz's workhorse Riesling from an excellent Rheingau parcel, packaged with a
screwcap and consumer-friendly name, is in fantastic form, with a deep umami note and
intensely high acid. Lean, citrus-driven, tangy and spot-on. (Importer: Terry
Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
2006 G.A. Schneider Kalinda Niersteiner Rheinhessen Riesling ($13) Refreshing,
straightforward, mostly dry style, with taut acidity and lots of citrus. (Importer:
Winesellers)
2006 Wegeler Wehlener Sonnenuhr Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($17) A proper focused Kabinett
style from one of Germany's most revered vineyards, a smoky, stony nose is bolstered
by a lot of lime zest, ripe golden apple and slightly tart peach and nectar fruit. Tree
fruit wraps around a flinty mineral note, with a bit more roundness on the finish.
(Importer: Dee Vine Wines)
2007 Joseph Rosch Leiwener Klostergarten Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($16.75) Werner
Rosch's wines have that sugar-driven softness that soothes the palates of the
acid-shy. This one's spicy, with nutmeg and allspice atop soft peach, green apple and
grapefruit. Upfront and refreshing, with an overt sweetness. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines)
Sicily
Sicily's potential for great everyday reds remains one of the worst kept secrets in
wine. I refer not to the incursion of the usual international grapes - Merlot in
particular - but to modern takes on the island's indigenous grapes. That largely
means Nero d'Avola, plus the more robust Nerello Mascalese, a sort of country cousin
whose worn shoes are balanced by an innate rustic charm. (They're accompanied by
excellent native whites from varieties like Inzolia and Grillo.)
Nero d'Avola is a hard grape to pin down. The comparison is often to Syrah, but that
seems facile. Nero d'Avola is far more about earthy, tarry aromatics, with lots of
darker fruit. Its non-fruit intensity can scare even Italian wine fans, but there's
no cause for fear; versions under $20 tend to put the fruit first. (That's an
appropriate price cap for all but a small handful of Sicilian reds. You should be able to
drink quite well from there for $15 or less.) Though often blended with mellower grapes,
100 percent Nero d'Avola remains a terrific bet. Be sure to ask about the style. Some
we tasted could have passed for Zinfandel; others for Beaujolais.
Nerello Mascalese is a bit tougher, in the way that Mourvedre is a difficult sell for all
but devoted Rhone-o-philes. But if the profile is leathery and thick-necked, it fits the
same niche as, say, Petite Sirah (but without the hammerhead tannins). Earthy and ripe but
with terrific brightness for balance, its robust appeal should certainly draw fans of a
gloves-off style of wine. In either case, these wines stint on neither fruit nor
earth-tinged nuance - and usually manage it without a helping hand from oak.
2007 Corbera Vini Isola d'Oro Sicilia Nerello Mascalese ($10) Leathery, cayenne,
fennel, stewed strawberry and dry, earthy grip define a profile that's heady, pungent
and dark, reminiscent of Mourvedre or even Tannat. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)
2006 Donnafugata Sedara Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($13) One of Sicily's most prolific
wineries (with 2.5 million bottles) offers up this beautifully balanced, brooding effort.
Distinctly earthy, with moist soil, dark cherry and a charred branch aroma. Equally dark
on the palate, with blackberry, moss and a modest grip. (Importer: Folio Wine Partners)
2005 Feudi del Pisciotto Baglio del Sole Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($15) Made all in
steel, it's leathery, with polished cherry and red fruit, and a tight-knit minerality
guiding the broad structure. Bark-like tannins give a Cab-worthy mouthfeel, though with
brighter fruit. (Importer: Vias Imports)
2007 Valle dell'Acate Poggio Budini Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($13) A light touch.
Balsam, sweet cherry and a slight waxiness mix with tangy berry and a juicy core. Almost
Beaujolais-like in its crisp profile, with a warm fruit presence at the finish. (Importer:
Vinity Wine Company)
Spain
The busy new era of Spanish reds has given almost every region of that country an
enological shot in the arm. Relatively cheap labor and a wave of modern winemaking, plus a
mix of old-vine native grapes and the usual suspects - Syrah, Cabernet - have turned Spain
into ground zero for big, dramatic wines that deliver amazing flavor per dollar.
Most of the action lies far afield from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, and even fashionable
Priorat - though winemaking in those regions is virtually unrecognizable from two decades
ago. New regions like Calatayud, Montsant (created in 2001), Bierzo and Terra Alta, plus
media darlings like Toro have tapped into a similar formula and, as a final step,
overhauled their looks with some of the most charismatic labels in wine. And a handful of
price-conscious American importers (Jorge Ordonez, Eric Solomon) have helped forge a
steady market.
That has allowed Spain to partly claim the mantle for bold reds from, say, Australian
Shiraz, though the harnessing of native grapes like Mencia (Bierzo) and hearty
Mediterranean varieties like Garnacha (Grenache) and Mazuelo (Carignan) tends to lend
extra nuance to less-expensive bottlings. While Spanish regions like Priorat have been
dominating popularity contests against oak-driven New World power bombs, the under-$20
realm is where some of the most interesting wines have emerged, offering the sort of
earth-driven quality that used to attract lovers of Rhone wines.
2007 Cellers Can Blau Montsant Red Wine ($17) A blend of Mazuelo, Syrah and Garnacha.
Subtle wood aromas mix with quartz-like mineral, black pepper, strawberry and leathery
blue fruit. The palate is compelling, guided by lifted minerals, with a grippy,
well-defined ending. (Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections/Henry Wine Group)
2006 Bodega y Vinedos Artazu Artazuri Navarra Red Wine ($11) All Garnacha, from one of the
most consistently fine projects in Navarra (just northeast of Rioja) run by the head of
Rioja's Artadi estate. Deep, smoky strawberry, mineral and a sweet vanilla presence
on the nose. A mineral core is rounded out by tart plum, boysenberry and brawny tannins on
the finish. (Importer: Eric Solomon/European Cellars)
2006 Luna Beberide Bierzo Mencia ($13) An amazing value for the price. The textbook aromas
of Mencia - raw, almost bloody meat, curing spice, bacon and roasted plum - leap out. They
move to refined blue fruit and fine mineral tones, making for a bright, juicy palate with
innate balance and soft-edged grip. (Importer: Grapes of Spain)
2006 Bodegas Luzon Jumilla Red Wine ($10) Monastrell (Mourvedre) and Syrah, unoaked and
from a somewhat lighter vintage in this southeastern region. But still plenty meaty and
leathery, bolstered with red fruit and a purple-flower highlight, with a salty note on the
palate. Almost rigid in its mineral structure, but with plush blackberry fruit to round it
out. (Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections/Henry Wine Group)
E-mail Jon Bonnét jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com and Lynne Char Bennett at
lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/31/WIB213QLJO.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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