Mostly an update.
Muffuletta Cafe
St. Anthony Park
2260 Como at Carter
651-644-9116 St. Paul, 55108
Directions. Hwy 280 or Snelling to Como, then East/West to Carter.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2005 17:56:53 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] S. France at Muffy's
Greetings,
Plenty of octane in the wines, mostly zins, last week.
Menu at Oddfellows is short but creative.
This week, we're going go Muffuletta. See review, address, etc. below.
Nic's pick is Southern France excluding Rhone. Get out the old
wine atlas and see what you can bring.
Yes (9 so far, some are guesses):
Nicolai
Warren/Ruth
Betsy
Bob
Jim/Louise
Karin
Russ
No:
Lori
Annette S.
Fred/Kim
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 13:51:14 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Western Wines at Oddfellows.
Greetings,
It appears that our man Scott and his Corner Table are booked up
this week. Bob has made a reservation for 6:30 at Oddfellows in
NE Mpls.
Oddfellows / Boom
401 E Hennepin Minneapolis, MN 55414
612-378-3188
----- End forwarded message -----
Here's some nice Ink on Muffies from the Strib.
St. Paul's Muffuletta thinking globally
Jeremy Iggers
Star Tribune
Published January 20, 2005
The tapas of Spain are the theme of this month's specials at Muffuletta in the Park, 2560 Como Av., St. Paul. The biggest selection is offered on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when eight or more different Iberian appetizers are featured, such as Sherry-braised rabbit with chickpeas and roasted tomatoes, or seared scallops with lobster sauce. But at least a few Spanish starters are featured as specials on other nights of the week.
Chef J.D. Fratzke's theme for February sounds equally enticing: It's a global survey of spices, in dishes ranging from nyama choma (Tanzanian spice-rubbed beef) to Moroccan spiced chicken kabobs with harissa, and south Indian meen molee (pomfret and mango simmered in coconut milk). Again, the biggest selection will be midweek, but some dishes will be offered on other days.
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Plenty of octane in the wines, mostly zins, last week.
Menu at Oddfellows is short but creative.
This week, we're going go Muffuletta. See review, address, etc. below.
Nic's pick is Southern France excluding Rhone. Get out the old
wine atlas and see what you can bring.
Yes (8 so far):
Nicolai
Warren/Ruth
Betsy
Bob
Jim/Louise
Karin
No:
Lori
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2005 13:51:14 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Western Wines at Oddfellows.
Greetings,
It appears that our man Scott and his Corner Table are booked up
this week. Bob has made a reservation for 6:30 at Oddfellows in
NE Mpls.
Oddfellows / Boom
401 E Hennepin Minneapolis, MN 55414
612-378-3188
----- End forwarded message -----
Here's some nice Ink on Muffies from the Strib.
St. Paul's Muffuletta thinking globally
Jeremy Iggers
Star Tribune
Published January 20, 2005
The tapas of Spain are the theme of this month's specials at Muffuletta in the Park, 2560 Como Av., St. Paul. The biggest selection is offered on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when eight or more different Iberian appetizers are featured, such as Sherry-braised rabbit with chickpeas and roasted tomatoes, or seared scallops with lobster sauce. But at least a few Spanish starters are featured as specials on other nights of the week.
Chef J.D. Fratzke's theme for February sounds equally enticing: It's a global survey of spices, in dishes ranging from nyama choma (Tanzanian spice-rubbed beef) to Moroccan spiced chicken kabobs with harissa, and south Indian meen molee (pomfret and mango simmered in coconut milk). Again, the biggest selection will be midweek, but some dishes will be offered on other days.
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
To those of you interested in my Zin class at Solo Vino/Zander on Monday,
the paper incorrectly listed the time as 6:30 - it's at 6:00 and the cost is
$25. You need to call in advance: 651-602-9515. I will be tasting the
following 8 wines:
white zin (of course)
primitivo from italy
high quality zins from Amador, Dry Creek, Napa and Mendocino
zin port
late harvest zin
No Ridge - sorry.
Also, I am selling a brand new 50 bottle wine chiller unit that I won. I
don't have stats or pictures of it yet but it retailed for $850 and I'm
selling it for $600 (free delivery!). Email me if you want more info.
Annette Stadelman
mandastad(a)msn.com
Greetings,
It appears that our man Scott and his Corner Table are booked up
this week. Bob has made a reservation for 6:30 at Oddfellows in
NE Mpls.
Oddfellows / Boom
401 E Hennepin Minneapolis, MN 55414
612-378-3188
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2005 16:54:36 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: Western Wines at Corner Table
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i
Greetings,
Wonderful food, interesting wines, good discussions at JP's last nite.
Next week, we're doing Wines from the Western Hemisphere at
Corner Table.
Yes: (mostly guesses)
Annette S.
Bob
Roger
Jim
Nicolai
Karin
No's
Ruth/Warren
Betsy
Lori (next week as well)
Russ (off to KY)
Louise (big meetings at work tomorrow.)
Our host, Scott Pampuch, would appreciate some feed back on
our dining experience. Perhaps you could add a line or two to
your wine notes on the food, ambiance, etc. I can forward same
to Scott next week.
6:30 p.m. at Corner Table.
Corner Table
4257 Nicollet Av S
Minneapolis 612-823-0011
----- End forwarded message -----
Here's some nice Ink on Muffies from the Strib.
St. Paul's Muffuletta thinking globally
Jeremy Iggers
Star Tribune
Published January 20, 2005
The tapas of Spain are the theme of this month's specials at Muffuletta in the Park, 2560 Como Av., St. Paul. The biggest selection is offered on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, when eight or more different Iberian appetizers are featured, such as Sherry-braised rabbit with chickpeas and roasted tomatoes, or seared scallops with lobster sauce. But at least a few Spanish starters are featured as specials on other nights of the week.
Chef J.D. Fratzke's theme for February sounds equally enticing: It's a global survey of spices, in dishes ranging from nyama choma (Tanzanian spice-rubbed beef) to Moroccan spiced chicken kabobs with harissa, and south Indian meen molee (pomfret and mango simmered in coconut milk). Again, the biggest selection will be midweek, but some dishes will be offered on other days.
THE KOLACHES HAVE LANDED!
Minnesota's first Kolache Factory franchise has opened at 5711 Xerxes Av. N., near Cub Foods and the Brookdale Mall. Kolaches are a popular pastry in the Czech Republic, where they are traditionally filled with prune, apricot, poppy seed or cheese, but Kolache Factory's menu isn't constrained by custom: Their pastries come with fillings that range from Polish sausage to pineapple. Owner is Michael Bui, whose family owns the Vina Plus and Saigon City restaurants.
CHOW AND BAO
Shanghai Circus, an Asian food concept developed by Chicago-based Lettuce Entertain You Inc., opened its second metro-area location this week, inside the Byerly's at 800 W. 78th St. in Chanhassen. (The first opened in October at Lunds in Edina.) The menu features egg rolls, chicken wings, pot stickers, steamed bao (buns) and Asian entrees such as kung pao Sichuan beef and Thai curry chicken, available for dining in or carry-out.
Lund Food Holdings, which owns Lunds, Byerly's and Rick's Markets in the metro area, plans to open 18 Shanghai Circus outlets in its stores.
Shanghai Circus replaces Leeann Chin, whose contract with Lunds expired last month. Leeann Chin is now operating in nine area Rainbow Foods, with more on the way.
RED IS DEAD
Chef Marianne Miller, former executive chef at Red, reports that her negotiations to buy and reopen the Russian-themed restaurant in the Foshay Tower have fallen through.
GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
Fans of Jazzmine's have got the blues -- the jazz club and restaurant in the Minneapolis Warehouse District has closed permanently.
FEELING CHILLY?
The Loon Cafe, 500 1st Av. N. in the Minneapolis Warehouse District, is offering a winter chili special: a two-cup sampler of its famous Pecos Red and chicken chilis for $6 (regularly $4.95 a cup). You can add a three-bone rib sampler (regularly $6.95) for just $4 more.
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Wonderful food, interesting wines, good discussions at JP's last nite.
Next week, we're doing Wines from the Western Hemisphere at
Corner Table.
Yes: (mostly guesses)
Bob
Roger
Jim and Louise
Nicolai
Karin
Russ
Lori
No's
Ruth/Warren
Betsy
Our host, Scott Pampuch, would appreciate some feed back on
our dining experience. Perhaps you could add a line or two to
your wine notes on the food, ambiance, etc. I can forward same
to Scott next week.
6:30 p.m. at Corner Table.
Corner Table
4257 Nicollet Av S
Minneapolis 612-823-0011
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Spanish Wines at JP's 1/13/2005
Disclaimer: someone who actually knows something about Spanish wines,
such as Annette Peters who joined us this evening after a long absence,
would be a far better author than yours truly for these notes. And as
seems to be usual at this venue, strong kitchen smells were difficult
competition for the wines' aromas and flavors. But here goes.
W1 lightly corked, not tasted. Gramona, 2001 "Gessami" (appellation
Penedes).
W2 lite gold, trace of spritz? Sizable fresh, attractive nose; medium
body, taste full and rich, lots of ripe fruit, on the soft side but acid
structure is adequate, fully dry; attractively aromatic finish,
excellent length, very nice wine for current drinking. Pazo Senorans,
2003 Albarino (appellation Rias Baixas). Went well with JP's excellent
calamari.
W3 clear gold; mostly pears and alcohol on nose; tastes of full soft
fruit, trace of cheese, perhaps white cheddar; cheese on the finish
too; reasonably good length. Martin Codax, 2003 Albarino (appellation
Rias Baixas).
W4 full gold; shy floral and shellac nose; tastes of weighty, mature
fruit and wood, some amylic tones, finishes with good length and power,
at first as it tastes then quite floral, overall a little strange but
good. Emilio Rojo, 2002 (appellation) Ribeiro. (This is made of five
grapes, mostly or all traditional Spanish varieties, whose names I did
not write down because the print was too small.)
1.1 light purple; funky, forward fruit nose showing some alcohol;
light body, lots of tasty red fruit, a bit of finishing tannin, nice
light wine overall. Los Llanos, 1992 "Pata Negra" Gran Reserva
(appellation Valdepenas).
1.2 deep medium purple, oaky and fresh grapy nose with a touch of
alcohol, medium body, attractively astringent, decent fruit level in
the mouth, finishes powerfully alcoholic although again with a
reasonable fruit level. Javier Asensio, 2002 (appellation) Navarro,
Tinto.
1.3 dark purple, smells of fresh dark fruit and chocolate, medium
body, tastes of fresh grapes, touch of tannin, some acid to integrate;
finish dominated by tannin and alcohol, decent wine though. 2002 Vina
Sastre, Roble (appellation Ribeira del Duero).
2.1 light red, lovely if oaky tempranillo nose showing a touch of age,
very aromatic midpalate with a substantial funk factor (raw or maybe
even decaying meat??) and plenty of fruit, smooth transition to
reasonably aromatic finish, lacks finishing power but good length,
overall impression very good if idiosyncratic. Rioja Alta, 1994 Gran
Reserva (appellation Rioja). Controversial wine, clearly too weird for
some tasters, maybe including yours truly if I'd been having more than
sip or two.
2.2 dark purple, shy nose with oak and dark fruits, midpalate BIG
tannic alcoholic & acidic, decent fruit level but could certainly wish
for more in a wine this size, decent finish, not special. Guelbenzu,
1995 "Evo" (appellation Navarra).
2.3 lite/medium red, sizable sweet oaky tempranillo red fruit nose,
tastes of more tempranillo fruit, mature now, delicious, aromatic
finish, touch of alcohol at the end but good power and length. Marques
de Arienzo, 1987 Gran Reserva (appellation) Rioja. One of my favorite
wines of the evening. Much less impressive an hour or so after being
opened; not sure whether it was falling apart a bit in the glass (it is
17 years old, after all) or just couldn't compete with the lovely wine #
4.1.
3.1 dark purple, reduced alcoholic nose improved with air, clear "one
note" dark fruit midpalate with substantial alcohol, aromatic dark
fruit alcoholic finish. Artadi, 2001 Vinas de Gain (appellation
Rioja). Disclaimer: gratuitous shot at Bob Parker coming up. This
wine got a big score from Parker although for my taste, at this point
in the wine's life, it is not carrying its alcohol very gracefully.
And by the way, it doesn't especially taste like Rioja, or anything
else in particular.
3.2 extremely dark purple, big dark fruit international style oaky
nose, distinct smell of Cognac; sweet late harvest zin midpalate, thick
and soft wine, big alcoholic black fruit and oak finish. A 290-pounder
trying to dance the ballet. Laderas de Pinoso, 1999 "El Seque"
(appellation Alicante).
4.1 lite/medium red, touch of maturity visible; a clear, aromatic
tempranillo sweet oak nose, midweight, extremely sizable tempranillo
fruit in the mouth, delicious and well structured, still more and to
some extent different fruit tones on the finish, tasty and pure, extra
long, very fine indeed. Rioja Alta, 1998 "Vina Ardanza" Reserva
(appellation Rioja). Got my vote for wine of the night, by a
considerable margin; thanks for sharing!
4.2 inky purple, butterscotchy sweet oak nose, midpalate rich, soft,
dark black fruit and lots of it, alcoholic, raisins and/or prunes; then
the finish is on the subtle side for the wine's size. Cims de Porrera,
1999 "Classic" (appellation Priorat).
4.3 medium to dark purple, legs in glass, alcoholic nose, tastes of
sweet, soft and spicy Rhone red fruits, very alcoholic, some acid and
tannin upon chewing; alcohol dominates the finish. Ramirez de Ganuza,
1998 Reserva (appellation Rioja).
Dessert dark cloudy brown; sharp shellacy nose, smells like those
weirdly herbal liqueurs some French (and apparently Spanish?) are fond
of as digestifs, not my cup of tea, not tasted. Toro Albala, 1975 Don
Pedro Ximenez Gran Reserva (appellation Montilla Moriles). Despite
this note, people's willingness to share such old and unusual wines is
greatly appreciated.
Hope to see everyone next week!
Jim, I won't be at JP's on Thurs. Lori
___________________________________________________________________
Speed up your surfing with Juno SpeedBand.
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Greetings,
Mostly an update. Thanks to all who replied, shared their
plans with the list. 7 confirmed that I know of. I haven't talked
to Bob.
YES:
Annette Peters
Annette Stadelman
Betsy
Bill
Bob
Russ
Jim
Assumed Yes/Not on line:
Nicolai
Roger
Maybes/long_shots/mostly_whites:
Suc McC
Louise
Regrets:
Fred
Ruth/Warren
Dress warm. Don't let your bottle freeze in your car.
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 15:40:21 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: Spanish at JP's Bistro
User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i
Greetings,
The remodeled Auriga is a very cozy and inviting space.
Warmer, softer, with a lower sound level. Check it out.
Time for a bit of finger wagging.....
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let someone know that you're planning on attending.
Call Bob (612-672-0607), e-mail the list (wine(a)thebarn.com) or
reply to me.
As of Thursday Morning, Bob knew of 4 people planning to attend.
(Bob, Betsy, Dave, me.) I knew of a few others (Louise, Bill,
Russ and maybe Sue.) a total of 8 possible, but reservation
for 8 so no problemo....
As you know, 11 people showed up. Definitely not the most
endearing thing we can do to/for our hosts.... It would be best if
we could be more accurate w/ our head counts
A big thanks to those of us who made their intentions known.
Thanks also to Fred, Annnette S, Warren/Ruth who let someone
know that they were not going to be there.
This week, we're doing Spanish wines at JP's Bistro on Thursday.
The Vintage Chart at the Wine Enthusiast web site says
that Spanish wines from 1997 and older are mostly at or
near peak, are ready to drink. Of course lighter, smaller
wines may well be ready sooner.
As usual, I can only guess at who will be there.
Betsy
Bob
Lori
Russ
Jim
Nicolai
Karen
JP's American Bistro
2937 S. Lyndale 55408
(612) 824-9300
Cheers,
Jim
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
The remodeled Auriga is a very cozy and inviting space.
Warmer, softer, with a lower sound level. Check it out.
Time for a bit of finger wagging.....
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE let someone know that you're planning on attending.
Call Bob (612-672-0607), e-mail the list (wine(a)thebarn.com) or
reply to me.
As of Thursday Morning, Bob knew of 4 people planning to attend.
(Bob, Betsy, Dave, me.) I knew of a few others (Louise, Bill,
Russ and maybe Sue.) a total of 8 possible, but reservation
for 8 so no problemo....
As you know, 11 people showed up. Definitely not the most
endearing thing we can do to/for our hosts.... It would be best if
we could be more accurate w/ our head counts
A big thanks to those of us who made their intentions known.
Thanks also to Fred, Annnette S, Warren/Ruth who let someone
know that they were not going to be there.
This week, we're doing Spanish wines at JP's Bistro on Thursday.
The Vintage Chart at the Wine Enthusiast web site says
that Spanish wines from 1997 and older are mostly at or
near peak, are ready to drink. Of course lighter, smaller
wines may well be ready sooner.
As usual, I can only guess at who will be there.
Betsy
Bob
Lori
Russ
Jim
Nicolai
Karen
JP's American Bistro
2937 S. Lyndale 55408
(612) 824-9300
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com> -----
X-MessageWall-Score: 0 (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2005 16:22:15 -0500 (EST)
To: jellings(a)me.umn.edu
Subject: The 30 Second Wine Advisor - Wine pairing tip: Match likes with likes
From: The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
X-Sender: <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
THE 30 SECOND WINE ADVISOR, Monday, Jan. 10, 2005
________________________________________________________________________
TODAY'S SPONSORS:
* CALIFORNIA WINE CLUB New Central Coast Discovery!
http://www.cawineclub.com?Partner_ID=winelovers
* SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA'S WINE COUNTRY Temecula Valley Winter Barrel
Tasting
http://www.temeculawines.org
IN THIS ISSUE
* IN THIS WEEK'S PREMIUM EDITION But ... where's it from?
* WINE PAIRING TIP: MATCH LIKES WITH LIKES An even more useful rule than
"red wine with red meat."
* PAZO BAION 2003 "LA FONTANA" RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO ($24) An aromatic,
lemony Spanish white of unusual grace and balance.
* CALIFORNIA WINE CLUB New Central Coast Discovery!
* SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA'S WINE COUNTRY Temecula Valley Winter Barrel
Tasting
* SOUTH COAST WINERY 2001 WILD HORSE PEAK MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS SANGIOVESE
THUNDERBOLT BLOCK ($24) To whet your appetite for Temecula, a tart,
food-friendly Italian-style red.
* THIS WEEK ON WINELOVERSPAGE.COM BYOB and corkage "etiquette."
* LAST WEEK'S WINE ADVISOR INDEX The Wine Advisor archives.
* ADMINISTRIVIA Change E-mail address, frequency, format or unsubscribe.
________________________________________________________________________
IN THIS WEEK'S PREMIUM EDITION: BUT ... WHERE'S IT FROM?
The wine is outstanding: Rated in the 90s by the points crowd, yet it
sells toward the lower end of the pricey realm because it comes from a
less sought-after region. Ripe and full and ready to enjoy today, yet
capable of a decade's cellaring, this Merlot-based red is a winner. But
... taste it blind, and you'll have no idea whether it's from Italy,
France, California or Australia.
Is this a bad thing, when the wine is good? We'll take on this
philosophical issue when I unveil this wine in tomorrow's Wine Advisor
Premium Edition, our subscription-only E-letter that helps you shop with
confidence when you're considering a more pricey bottle for a special
occasion. The $24 subscription price - no more than you'd pay for a
bottle of exceptionally fine wine - will bring you a full year of
biweekly E-mail bulletins. Proceeds go to buy these special wines at
retail, and help support WineLoversPage.com too! Click here to subscribe
today:
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Want to read a free sample first? Click here:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/premsample1.html
________________________________________________________________________
WINE PAIRING TIP: MATCH LIKES WITH LIKES
The ancient wine wisdom, "Red wine with red meat, white wine with white
meat" is often held up as bad advice because it has so many exceptions.
Indeed, anyone who's enjoyed such rule-breaking gustatory glories as
Pinot Noir with salmon or a fine old Bordeaux with roast chicken will
understand this.
Frankly, I still find the simple old rule useful. As long as you bear in
mind that there's no penalty for breaking it, it's handy and easy to
remember that beef and lamb go well with dry red wines, just as most
fish, shellfish and poultry reward pairing with whites.
But when you're ready to move on to the next level, I like a slightly
more sophisticated rule that rarely if ever fails: "Match likes with
likes."
Simply restated, look for a wine whose flavors and aromas mirror the
taste of your entree. Lobster is rich and slightly sweet; so is a big
Chardonnay. The flavors of the wine and the shellfish simply fit, with
extra credit if there's a whiff of butter in the wine. Red Rhone Syrahs
often present distinct aromas of rare, grilled meat, making them a
natural with a similar chunk of seared beef on your plate, and again, if
there's a dash of black pepper in the wine, it will play nicely with the
real thing on your steak. Tart with tart, sweet with sweet, herbal with
herbal, sour with sour ... just about any flavor pairing that brings
together similarities in food and wine will heighten your tasting
experience.
I ran into this phenomenon in a couple of striking examples recently. On
New Year's Day, a Italian red that I've enjoyed in past vintages
(Lungarotti 2000 Rubesco di Torgiano, a cousin to Chianti from
neighboring Umbria), proved so rustic that it veered almost closer to
"dirty" than "earthy" in its character, a funky old-wood flavor that
made me wonder at first if the wine was cork-tainted. It made a poor
match indeed with a light New Year's Day meal of Welsh rabbit made with
Cheddar. But in a flash of inspiration, I sawed off a chunk of
sopressata salame from Volpe in St. Louis. This is an excellent, Veneto-
style dry sausage with a deliciously funky character that, sure enough,
picked up and somehow ameliorated the earthiness of the wine, resulting
in a match that saved the wine from an unceremonious journey down the
drain.
In another excellent pairing that took advantage of "likes with likes,"
I matched the roast garlic and lemon chicken featured in last week's
Wine Advisor FoodLetter with a crisp Spanish white that I expected would
show a distinct lemony character, the Pazo Baion 2003 "La Fontana" Rias
Baixas Albarinofrom California Wine Club's International Selections.
Sure enough, the lemony chicken and citric wine proved a match made in
heaven, further evidence of the validity of the rule.
________________________________________________________________________
TALK ABOUT WINE ONLINE
If you would like to ask a question or comment on today's topic (or
other wine-related issues), you'll find a round-table online discussion
in our interactive Wine Lovers' Discussion Group, where you're always
welcome to join in the conversations about wine.
http://www.myspeakerscorner.com/forum/index.phtml?fn=1&tid=57245&mid=488784
If you prefer to comment privately, feel free to send me E-mail at
wine(a)wineloverspage.com. I'll respond personally to the extent that time
and volume permit.
________________________________________________________________________
PAZO BAION 2003 "LA FONTANA" RIAS BAIXAS ALBARINO ($24)
Pale gold and transparently clear, this luscious Spanish white breathes
fresh, heady peach aromas lent complexity with elusive hints of spice
and a minty note. Crisp and bright in flavor, snappy lemon-citrus
flavors and fresh-fruit acidity come together in a tart, palate-
cleansing wine with appealing nuances that follow the nose. An
exceptionally balanced and fine Albarino, it demonstrates why this once
little-known Spanish variety is gainign popularity. U.S. importer:
Victoire Imports Co., San Leandro, Calif.; California Wine Club
International Selections. (Jan. 4, 2005)
FOOD MATCH: The winery recommends it with fish, which is good advice,
and I generally find Albarino a natural companion with shellfish. In
this instance, though, I matched likes with likes and paired it to great
effect with the roast garlic and lemon chicken featured in last week's
Wine Advisor FoodLetter.
VALUE: Available only through California Wine Club's International
Selections, which offers two wines shipped per quarter in the U.S. where
laws allow, with the ability to order additional bottles at favorable
pricing.
WHEN TO DRINK: I like Albarino best when it's young and fresh, and would
drink it up in coming months, but its good fruit and balance support the
winery's opinion that it will keep under good storage conditions for
another two years.
PRONUNCIATION:
Albarino = "Ahl-ba-REEN-yo"
Rias Baixas = "Ree-ahss By-hahss"
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
This wine is currently available only from California Wine Club's
International Selections. For information call 1-800-777-4443 or click
to
http://www.cawineclub.com?Partner_ID=winelovers
To check out a wide range of other Albarinos from Rias Baxas on Wine-
Searcher.com, browse
http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions/rmas+baixas?referring_site=WLP
________________________________________________________________________
THE CALIFORNIA WINE CLUB: NEW CENTRAL COAST DISCOVERY!
On a recent tour through California's Central Coast, California Wine
Club owners Bruce and Pam Boring met John and Kelley Clark from Brophy
Clark Cellars. Although their winery is only eight years old, the
Brophys have a combined 30 years of winemaking experience and awards
worth bragging about!
This month's Special Edition shipment from The California Wine Club
includes Brophy Clark's 2000 "Santa Maria Valley" Pinot Noir and their
2001 "Edna Valley" Syrah. The Pinot Noir has received 1 Gold, 2 Silver
medals and multiple 85+ ratings. The Syrah is a two-time Silver Medal
winner exploding with plum, nutmeg and mint flavors.
This special two-bottle shipment is just $32.95 plus shipping. To order
this month's Special Edition call 1-800-777-4443 or email
info(a)cawineclub.com.
California Wine Club
http://www.cawineclub.com?Partner_ID=winelovers
________________________________________________________________________
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA'S WINE COUNTRY:
TEMECULA VALLEY WINTER BARREL TASTING
Southern California's most popular wine region opens its doors for a
two-day food and wine pairing event showcasing wines still in the
barrel. This event gives wine lovers a peek at future wines produced by
our 20 member wineries.
Just 4 short miles off of I-15, the beautiful Temecula Valley wine
region is surrounded by gently rolling hills and dramatic mountain
ranges. It has been a source of award-winning wines for over 30 years.
The region produces a number of different wines from valley floor
vineyards and hillside plantings.
The two-day barrel tasting allows visitors and locals to leisurely visit
all 20 wineries (one time each over the two-day period) that make this
viticultural region so special.
Join us for this once-a-year trip into the cellar to sample wines
directly from the barrel. This is your opportunity to meet winemakers,
purchase "futures" of limited release wines and sample foods perfectly
matched to the wines being tasted.
Barrel tasting with food pairing is featured at each one of the 20
wineries. You drive to the wineries you would like to visit, or arrange
for alternative transportation.
Click
http://www.temeculawines.org/events.asp
for registration and information about this and other events. For more
about Temecula and its wines, the Temecula Valley Winegrowers
Association invites you to think Temecula!
http://www.temeculawines.org/
Now, to whet your appetite for Temecula, here's my report on a tart,
food-friendly Italian-style red from one of the region's respected
producers. Later this week we'll try more.
________________________________________________________________________
SOUTH COAST WINERY 2001 WILD HORSE PEAK MOUNTAIN VINEYARDS SANGIOVESE
THUNDERBOLT BLOCK ($24)
This is a clear, deep ruby-color wine, showing brilliant reddish-orange
glints against the light. Ripe red-berry scents add appealing touches of
warm brown spice lifted by high-toned aromatics. Ripe and fresh on the
palate, snappy red fruit and spicy notes of cinnamon and cloves are
laced up by mouth-watering acidity. I wouldn't call it a Chianti clone
... ripe fruit and spice speak more of California than Italy; but it
matches its Tuscan cousin in food-friendliness. (Jan. 10, 2005)
FOOD MATCH: Chosen to pair with a hearty Northern Italian-style beef-
and-pork meatloaf from Marcella Hazan, "Polpettone di manzo e maile con
i funghi."
VALUE: Priced to match the higher end of Chianti Classico, it's buyer's
choice.
WHEN TO DRINK: Drinking well now, and probably not a long-term ager, but
quality fruit and oak treatment should see it through several years of
cellar time if you choose to age it under good storage conditions.
PRONUNCIATION:
Temecula = "Teh-MEK-you-lah"
WEB LINK:
The South Coast Winery web pages are included in the Website of its
parent corporation, Temecula's South Coast Resort:
http://www.wineresort.com/winery.htm
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
To order online directly from the winery, go to its "Our Wines" page,
http://www.wineresort.com/wourwines.htm
and click the Wild Horse Peak label to reach the E-commerce page.
To browse through a variety of wines from Temecula on Wine-Searcher.com,
see
http://www.wine-searcher.com/regions/temecula?referring_site=WLP
________________________________________________________________________
THIS WEEK ON WINELOVERSPAGE.COM
Here are links to some of our recently published articles that I think
you'll enjoy:
* WINE LOVERS' DISCUSSION GROUP: Corkage etiquette
Last year Alberta, Canada, passed legislation allowing BYOB in the
province's restaurants. New to the custom, a reader finds it a bit
uncomfortable to walk in with a bottle while other diners gawk. Should
he use a bag? Tip on "corkage"? Wine Lovers' Discussion Group
participants offer their advice - along with some debate about the ins
and outs of BYO and corkage. Read the posts, and feel free to join in:
http://www.myspeakerscorner.com/forum/index.phtml?fn=1&tid=57179&mid=488312
________________________________________________________________________
LAST WEEK'S WINE ADVISOR INDEX
The Wine Advisor's daily edition is usually distributed on Mondays,
Wednesdays and Fridays (and, for those who subscribe, the FoodLetter on
Thursdays). Here's the index to last week's columns:
* Outstanding red from Faugeres (Jan. 7, 2004)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tswa050107.phtml
* WT101: The South of France (Jan. 5, 2004)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tswa050105.phtml
* My top wine values of 2004 (Jan. 3, 2004)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tswa050103.phtml
* Complete 30 Second Wine Advisor archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/thelist.shtml
* Wine Advisor FoodLetter: Roast garlic and lemon chicken (Jan. 6, 2004)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/tsfl050106.phtml
* Wine Advisor Foodletter archive:
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor1/foodlist.phtml
________________________________________________________________________
SUBSCRIBE:
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http://www.wineloverspage.com/rss/
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http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor/index.shtml
* Wine Advisor FoodLetter, Thursdays (free)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor/foodletter.shtml
* Wine Advisor Premium Edition, alternate Tuesdays ($24/year)
http://www.wineloverspage.com/wineadvisor/premium.phtml
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CONTACT US
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For information, E-mail wine(a)wineloverspage.com
________________________________________________________________________
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All the wine-tasting reports posted here are
consumer-oriented. In order to maintain objectivity and avoid conflicts of interest,
I purchase all the wines I rate at my own expense in retail stores and accept no samples, gifts or other gratuities from the wine industry.
Monday, January 10, 2005
Copyright 2005 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
A select group of 11 gathered to enjoy Auriga's new decor and new menu -
White 1 - nice fresh nose, midpalate impressions alcohol, honey, plenty of
fruit, minerals, smooth; finishes with good length and a nice acid snap,
very good plus. Elemental Cellars, 2001 Viognier, Deux Verts Vineyard,
Willamette Valley. (Theorizing from the presence of honey and absence of
mango, I misidentified this as Marsanne, perhaps more proof that I'm
laughably inept at identifying the grape when tasting young whites blind.
Apparently "Elemental Cellars" is another venture of Steve Westby at Witness
Tree; anyone who knows more is welcome to tell me about it.)
White 2 - repulsively musty, not tasted. Will Slovenian chardonnay become
as famous as Romanian pinot noir?
1.1 - dark color; forward fruit on nose; midpalate smooth, redder fruit than
the nose, tasty, very alcoholic finish though. 2001 Echelon Shiraz,
Esperanza Vineyard, Clarksburg. (More info re the Clarksburg AVA, which was
a new one on me, may be found at
http://winebusiness.com/html/MonthlyArticle.cfm?AId=82789&issueId=82758 - )
1.2 - dark color; bacon nose almost too funky, and a little VA as well?
Bacony tannic flavor, lacks fruit, finish decent. I can imagine food
pairings this might work with, but to my personal taste, it's so bacony that
it's a caricature of syrah. 2000 Crozes-Hermitage, Cuvee Leonie (Gilles
Robin).
1.3 - medium dark; warmly alcoholic on nose (in a good way for a winter
wine) but not very aromatic; extremely light body, tasty though, pleasant
red fruits, OK finish, light as a feather but balanced and pleasant. 2000
Crozes-Hermitage, Cuvee Christophe (Domaine des Remizieres).
2.1 - dark young purple; forthcoming international style nose, pretty yeasty
for a still red wine but it works, attractive aroma of baked goods;
midpalate smooth, substantial, and much less sweet than the nose suggests,
quite good; finish lacks power and shows alcohol, decent wine though. 2003
Crozes-Hermitage "Papillon," a Leonie (Gilles Robin). (Apparently the same
wine, although from a different vintage, as 1.2. Substantially different
label design.)
2.2 - light to medium color, raspberry nose, midpalate smooth, light body,
red fruits with good spice and good acid snap, sneaky long finish with black
raspberry and minerals. Very, very light but otherwise excellent. 2002
Crozes-Hermitage (Louis Bernard). (An achievement in such a wet vintage,
and most of the Louis Bernard wines don't cost much either.)
2.3 - dark color; dumb nose showing black fruits when shaken up (wine turned
out to be too cold); initial midpalate impression is of formidable acid
structure and tannin, then aristocratic fruit, minerals and balanced wood
influence show; true finish, as it tastes, with decent length, serious wine,
still needs time. 1994 St Joseph "Deschants" (M. Chapoutier).
3.1 - medium dark red, blackberry nose, palate entry smooth, then big,
weighty and sweet, finishes somewhat alcoholic and not nearly as forceful as
the midpalate suggests, good wine, if perhaps not altogether balanced? 2001
Beckmen Syrah, Purisima Mountain Vineyard, Santa Ynez Valley. (Santa Ynez
Valley is one of the Santa Barbara appellations.)
3.2 - deep red, color shows a touch of age? Mature red fruit nose, touch of
alcohol, midpalate structured and hugely explosive unsweet fruit, powdered
stone, herbs - on the finish, again a touch of alcohol but very true, as it
tastes, considerable length, may be better still with a bit more time. 1998
Cote-Rotie "Brune et Blonde" (E. Guigal). (Consensus wine of the night.
Thank you, Dave.)
3.3 - dark color; funky nose, brett? Midpalate lightish, lacks fruit,
finish the best feature, overall this has a lot of tannin for the fruit.
1996 Cote-Rotie (Robert Niero).
3.4 - dark red-purple; quiet nose of dark fruits; structured midpalate,
aristocratic bearing, could wish for more fruit; finish is the best feature,
distinguished Rhone fruit with a touch of anise. 1994 Hermitage "la
Sizeranne" (M. Chapoutier).
Dessert - fresh Riesling nose, aromatic fruit and herbs; sweetness in
balance, varietally typey and pure, good length. 2003 Handley Cellars Late
Harvest Riesling (Anderson Valley) (375 ml).
Hope to see you all for vinos de Espana this coming week -
R.