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[wine] Auriga on Thursday - Shiraz/Syrah

by Betsy Kremser

Sorry for any confusion between Jim's post and mine. I sent both my posts a couple of hours before Jim's posts showed up in my e-mail box. I have a suspicsion that there was an issue with our e-mail server. Anyway, reservations are at Auriga, in the bar, strict limit of 8 people. Bob requested a definite "yes" RSVP to reserve your spot at the table. The Shiraz/Syrah theme is a go. Betsy

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Auriga on Thursday; Strict Limit of 8

by Betsy Kremser

Bob got a reservation at Auriga for Thursday. It's filling up fast given the news of Auriga's demise as of this Saturday night, so he could only get us seating in the **bar** area (otherwise it would have been 5 PM or 9 PM in the dining room). A definitive RSVP is needed to confirm your seat at the table. I guess since I instigated the change in venue, you can RSVP to me for this week only. I'll post a wine theme tomorrow. Betsy Betsy Kremser Health Planner/Policy Analyst Anoka County Community Health & Environmental Services 763.323.6096 (voice) 763.422.6988 (Fax)

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Betsy Kremser sent you an article from startribune.com

by Betsy Kremser

18 years, 10 months

[wine] [auriga@axismg.com: Restaurant Closing]

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI on Auriga RIP, My guess is the loss of the Guthrie traffic made for a very long, slow winter season. Group's going to Sapor. Vin du jour is Syrah/Shiraz. Thursday at 6:30 ----- Forwarded message from Auriga <auriga(a)axismg.com> ----- Date: Mon, 22 Jan 2007 17:01:49 -0500 To: "james(a)brewingnews.com" <james(a)brewingnews.com> From: Auriga <auriga(a)axismg.com> Reply-to: Auriga <auriga(a)axismg.com> Subject: Restaurant Closing If you are having problems viewing this email, please go to http://www.kmschwartz.com/AxisMG/html_version.php?CampaignID=3482&CampaignS…. To ensure future delivery of emails, please add auriga(a)axismg.com to your safe sender list or address book. Arrivaderci and Au Revoir Auriga Twin Cities fine dining establishment announces its closing MINNEAPOLIS Award-winning and celebrated by local, national and ineternational diners and foodies alike, Auriga announced today its plans to close the restaurant following dinner service on Saturday, Jan. 27, 2007. We accomplished exactly what we set out to do when we opened, said Doug Flicker, acclaimed chef and one of Aurigas three owners. Were very proud of our work and appreciative of our staff and customers. Flickers upcoming plan includes an extended culinary working trip on the West coast, and owners Melinda Van Eeckhout and Jim Andrus plan time off to decide future endeavors. Its simply time to move onon a high note, the Auriga owners agreed. Those high notes include a variety of honors for Auriga ranging from being named City Pages Best Restaurant Minneapolis in 1999, 2000 and 2005, to being featured on the Food Network program Tasty Travels with Rachel Ray. The culinary masterminds behind Auriga also received local and national praise as Flicker was the first Twin Cities chef inducted into Nations Restaurant News Fine Dining Hall of Fame and was also invited to cook at the James Beard House in June 2006. About Auriga: Located on the corner of Franklin Ave. and Hennepin Ave. in Minneapolis, Auriga restaurant opened its doors in 1997 with young, passionate chefs driving a cuisine-focused dining experience. Committed to providing the Twin Cities with a common-sense approach to cooking with cuisine refined to uncommon sophistication, the restaurant incorporated fresh, locally-grown, organic fare and distinctive ingredients into every dish. Head chef Doug Flicker and collaborating chef Melinda Van Eeckhout garnered praise for their innovative cuisine and helped establish a long list of accolades for the restaurant. Reservations at Auriga restaurant are suggested and can be made by calling (612) 871-0777. For more information please visit http://www.aurigarestaurant.com. Thank you for being our guest. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Auriga ~ 1930 Hennepin Avenue ~ Minneapolis, MN 55403 ~ 612-871-0777 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- You received this message because your email address was given to us at the restaurant or on our web site. If you no longer wish to receive e-mails from us, or feel that you have received this message in error go to http://www.kmschwartz.com/AxisMG/unsubscribe.php?CampaignID=3482&Demo=0&Enc… to unsubscribe. e-mail a service of Axis Marketing Group [http://www.axismg.com] - 440.942.3550 ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Shiraz/Syrah at Sapor

by Jim L. Ellingson

Been a while at Sapor..... Auriga's last day is Saturday 1/27. Loss of the pre and post Guthrie Theater business is my guess. Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2006 11:25:05 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.54 on 128.101.142.227 ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 16:12:23 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com We're going to Sapor at 6:30 on Thursday. Style du jour is Syrah/Shiraz. $5 per person in leu of corkage. Part of their wine list is on their web site. If you happen to bring something that's on the list or the shelf (easier than you might think. Ask Russ about a split of something obscure he'd bought at a winery that was on their shelf as well.... ) we'll just save it for another week. We're never short of wine. http://www.saporcafe.com/ 428 N. Washington, Mpls 612 375 1971 Yes/Guess: Ruth Betsy Bob Karin/Nicolai Jim (i'm iffy at this point) More guesses.... Lori Roger LeClair Annette S Dave Sapor is very close to Sam's Wine Shop (closes at 8:00 M-Th).

18 years, 10 months

[wine] A bottle of wine

by Theodore Trampe

Something to smile about: > >Sally was driving home from one of her business trips in Northern Arizona >when she saw an elderly Navajo woman walking on the side of the road. As >the trip was a long and quiet one, she stopped the car and asked the Navajo >woman if she would like a ride. With a silent nod of thanks, the woman got >into the car. > >Resuming the journey, Sally tried in vain to make a bit of small talk with >the Navajo woman. The old woman just sat silently, looking intently at >everything she saw, studying every little detail, until she noticed a brown >bag on the seat next to Sally. > >"What in bag?" asked the old woman. > >Sally looked down at the brown bag and said, >"It's a bottle of wine. I got it for my husband." > >The Navajo woman was silent for another moment or two. >Then speaking with the quiet wisdom of an elder, she said: "Good >trade....." _________________________________________________________________ Get in the mood for Valentines Day. View photos, recipes and more on your Live.com page. http://www.live.com/?addTemplate=ValentinesDay&ocid=T001MSN30A0701

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Sausage, Peppers, Pasta at Chez Gregory

by Jim L. Ellingson

Town Talk was a hoot, as usual. The place was jumping. Thanks for being prompt. Warren and Ruth are preparing a meal of pasta with sausages and peppers. Wines of Italy, Tuscany and South. Thursday at 6:30. Limit is 8. Please coordinate dishes w/ the BG's. (Bixler-Gregorys). Best, Jim Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 07:19:40 -0800 (PST) From: warren gregory <gregory.warren(a)yahoo.com> To: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> Jim, it would be great to see and Louise you at our place on Thursday. What we ask is that the number be held to six (that's Ruth and I and six others). We'll and a side and they should RSVP to us either by phone (651-698-5337) or e-mail (gregory.warren(a)yahoo.com) We will encourage a dessert from one person and a relish tray from another so if anyone has a urge to take up one of those asssignments they are welcom. thank you Jim. --- "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> wrote: > ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" > <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- > > Date: Tue, 29 Aug 2006 11:07:16 -0500 > From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> > To: wine(a)thebarn.com > > > I-94 to Cretin-Vandalia. Go south to Randolph, > East to 2139. > > > > Warren, Ruth Gregory 651-698-5337 > > 2139 Randolph 55105 > > Yeses > > Warren/Ruth Pasta/Peppers/Sausage > Jim Breads Bob Cheeses Lori Desert? Betsy Salad? > Dave T. > > -- Not claiming these are all Tuscan and South.: Italian Reds, Cause to Celebrate Wednesday, December 13, 2006; F02 In Italian cuisine, wine has no purpose without food, and a grand meal cannot exist without either. That wonderful attitude of la cucina Italiana explains why Italian wines are a splendid choice for almost all holiday dinners and celebrations, whether the cuisine happens to be Italian, American, even Asian. >From their inception, Italian wines are designed to harmonize with and enhance the flavors of the accompanying food. Their often exotic floral aromas and good balance of fruit and tannins seem to bring out all the nuances a cook works so hard to put in. Although Italy makes many good white wines, for winter holiday meals its many moderately priced reds are the stars. The following are highly recommended. Prices are approximate. Marchesi de Frescobaldi Chianti Rufina Castello di Nipozzano Riserva 2003 ($21; Bacchus, 443-692-6020): With real authority and depth of flavor, this artfully sculpted Chianti offers a heady perfume of violets, cherry and vanilla, followed by tastes of complex red berries and blackberries. Frescobaldi's Nipozzano estate is in the heart of the prized Rufina zone, which produces structured, age-worthy reds of great refinement. Il Poggione Rosso di Montalcino 2003/2004 ($24-$29; Paterno/Washington Wholesale, javier_baquero(a)charmer-sunbelt.com) This wine captures the delicate violet- and truffle-scented notes of a $50 Brunello di Montalcino, which is made in the same area from the same grape, the sangiovese grosso. Without the formidable tannins and structure of Brunello, this Rosso di Montalcino is succulent and ready to drink now. Luigi d'Alessandro 2001 Syrah Cortona Il Bosco ($49; NDC, 202-388-8235): Quite full-bodied, with an open bouquet of blackberry, truffle and pepper, this sublime syrah from Tuscany should be served with the most special holiday meals of red meat and game. Its inner core of exotic, ultra-ripe fruit is truly memorable. Leonardo Da Vinci 2003 Chianti Riserva ($22; NDC); Da Vinci 2005 Chianti ($11; NDC): Although most riservas are from the esteemed Chianti Classico zone, this 2003 from the humbler Chianti DOCG is terrific. The fruit is complex, subtle and mouth-filling, and the wine finishes with gentle, round tannins. The vibrant 2005 regular Chianti from the same producer is trattoria-styled, great with pasta, pizza or Tuscan grill. Argentiera 2004 Poggio Ai Ginepri ($19; Banville & Jones Wine Merchants/Washington Wholesale): This innovative blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah from the Bolgheri area of western Tuscany offers spicy red berry fruit highlighted by hints of toasty oak. Perfect with roast lamb and wintry dishes such as duck confit and cassoulet. Do you have a question for wine columnist Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood(a)washpost.com. WINE OF THE WEEK: Allegrini 2003 Palazzo della Torre Wednesday, December 13, 2006; F02 WINE OF THE WEEK Allegrini 2003 Palazzo della Torre ($19; Italy) Tastes Like a ripe bouquet of spring flowers, vanilla and baked fruit, followed on the palate by silky, red berry fruit with hints of raisins and plums. Grape Variety Blend of 70 percent corvina, 25 percent rondinella and 5 percent sangiovese. What's Special About It This is like a cross between an Amarone, a rich, concentrated Italian red; and a soft, highly quaffable Valpolicella. For meeting the variable needs of holiday entertaining, it's hard to imagine a more versatile choice. Serve With Treat it like an Amarone by pouring at normal serving temperature to accompany deeply flavored holiday roasts of beef, pork or lamb. Or, as with a Valpolicella, chill it for 20 minutes in the refrigerator and pair with light appetizers. How It's Made About two-thirds of the grapes are fermented immediately after harvest, just as with Valpolicella. The rest are put on racks to dry until the end of December and are then fermented ripasso (with some of the wine and the lees from the initial fermentation), as is an Amarone. After blending, the wine is aged for 15 months in barrels and then for an additional seven months in the bottle. The result is a wine with more extraction and power than Valpolicella, but without the higher alcohol content and strong tannins typical of Amarone. Winery Allegrini is one of the most important wineries in the Valpolicella region. Its winemaking style emphasizes the unique character of the indigenous grapes. On the Label The grapes for this wine come from a single vineyard, Palazzo della Torre. Such vineyard-designated wines, which denote exceptional quality, are relatively rare in Valpolicella. Geography Allegrini is based in a subregion of Valpolicella called Fumane di Valpolicella, just north of Verona in northeastern Italy. The Palazzo della Torre vineyard is situated 787 feet above sea level. Its chalky soil provides good drainage, and an eastern exposure allows the grapes to catch the warmth of the morning sun. Vintage Note While the unusually warm 2003 created problems in some parts of Italy, in Valpolicella the hot summer allowed the grapes to achieve excellent ripeness and above-average concentration. Where to Get It Allegrini wines are imported nationally by Winebow. For information on retail availability in the Washington area, call the Winebow Washington office, 202-835-3062. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WINES OF TUSCANY Chianti may well be synonymous with Tuscany, but there is far more diversity here than a visit to your average wine merchant would suggest. Recent years have witnessed considerable changes, with most articles on Tuscan wine commenting upon the shift of emphasis from quantity to quality, Above all, Tuscany produces red wine and, above all, this wine is made from the Sangiovese grape. The practice of adding white grapes to the Chianti blend has, thankfully, all but disappeared; the last twenty or so years has seen Sangiovese find a new partner - Cabernet Sauvignon - and when this marriage works, as it often does, the resultant wines are usually excellent and, occasionally, truly great. Brunello di Montalcino manages ably to retain the crown of `Italy's most expensive wine', although the likes of Tignanello and Sassicaia are not too far behind. Some other areas worthy of investigation are Morellino di Scansano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano, and wines of Lucca & Montecarlo. The white wines of Tuscany are far less important than the reds. Produced predominantly from the workaday Trebbiano grape, a notable exception is Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Good Sauvignon and Chardonnay is made, but the prices tend to be quite high. Vin Santo, the famous after-dinner wine, is also seeing a renewed commitment to quality. AN INTRODUCTION TO THE WINES OF CHIANTI Chianti is without a doubt the most well known of all Italian wines. There may be only one denomination - Chianti D.O.C.G - but there are many different styles, ranging from light Beaujolais-style quaffing wines to structured, complex wines with enough backbone to reward aging and maturing. The predominant grape variety is Sangiovese, but the laws allow for an addition of between 10 and 15% of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. A Riserva wine is one that has been aged longer before being released; it should come from a good year and benefit from further aging, although it is not always the guarantee of quality that might reasonably be expected. Click here for a brief history of the wines of Chianti over the centuries. The vineyards of Chianti are scattered over much of central Tuscany; the Classico zone begins northwards of Siena and reaches most of the way to Florence. This zone generally produces the best wine. The other six zones are: Colli Aretini The hills around Arezzo produce a medium-bodied Chianti, soft and best drunk young. Colli Senesi From the hills to the south and west of Siena, this is the largest Chianti sub-zone. Chianti plays second fiddle to Brunello and Montepulciano. Colli Fiorentini All styles of Chianti, from light everyday stuff to some excellent Riservas. Montalbano From the hills west of Florence. The better grapes tend to go to make Carmignano. Rufina The smallest of the seven, this zone, to the north east of Florence, produces some of the most complex and long-lived wines in Chianti. Colline Pisane Pleasant, light wines from the hills around Pisa There are various theories as to the origin of the name Chianti. The most popular has it that the word derives from the Latin clangor, meaning the cry of a bird or a high pitched note from a trumpet, and that this alludes to the wild and uncultivated countryside of the area, fit for hunting rather than agriculture. Another far more mundane theory ascribes the name to an Etruscan family of the area, or perhaps a winegrower from the hills above Florence. What is more certain is that the name was well established by the early fifteenth century, although the wine known as Chianti in those days was almost certainly a white wine. As late as the 1960's there was still a Chianti bianco and even the DOC laws of 1967 allowed for 30% of white grapes in the red wine. By the early 1900's the wines of Chianti had become very popular - or at least the 'style' had, as a bottle labelled as Chianti may not have come from Chianti proper, if indeed it came from Tuscany at all. The year 1924 saw the formation of the Consorzio per la difesa del vino tipico del Chianti, a group taking as its symbol the black cockerel, the Gallo Nero still seen on all bottles today. The significance of this dates to a border dispute between Siena and Florence, a dispute that saw the border drawn at the point where a horseman from each city would meet on the road. They were both to set out at the cock-crow, as indeed they did, except that the Florentine cockerel had been starved, and woke to greet the day considerably earlier than its Sienese counterpart. The DOCG regulations of 1984 attempted to achieve what the DOC ones of 1967 failed to do in terms of quality and consistency, and there is no doubt that post DOCG Chianti is a much improved wine, however, many growers still found the rules too restrictive and archaic. This led to the rise of the so-called 'Super-Tuscans', wines made from the same grapes and the same vineyards as traditional Chianti, yet made in a way and using blends that 'flouted' regulations, and led them to be labelled as table-wines. This didn't bother the growers overmuch as these wines (then and now) command prices way beyond even the best Chianti Classico. Eventually, the regulations were altered to allow these wines back into the fold. Grape varieties that were outlawed are now permitted, and the requirement to effectively ruin a wine by forcing the inclusion of white grapes in the blend has lapsed. There is a re-assessment of Chianti under way; ever higher standards coupled with some wonderful vintages are allowing the very best wines to walk tall, and many recent tastings have commented on the wonderful ageing potential of top Chianti. The prestige that that the 'Super-Tuscans' afforded the Sangiovese grape is now allowing the focus to return to the making of good Chianti. A QUESTION OF STYLE Between tradition and renewal, the challenge for Tuscan wines is to exploit the distinctive marks of the territory. To .dare. with less international wines but always with bigger personalities. It is a difficult world, felicitous at times but with an uncertain future. Or so the lyrics of a song that was popular a few years ago would have it. The lyrics are even more appropriate today when applied to the situation of the Italian wine sector. I don.t wish to take this article as a pretext for wandering the byways of the current market and dispensing advice on marketing and prices. Not at this time when censors of bad habits are admonishing those who have erred and who threaten apocalyptic scenarios for the future of sales of Italian products. It.s a shame that many of these admirable prophets were peddling entirely different theories until only a short time. Let.s say instead, and more honestly, that nearly all the leaders in the world wine sector galloped through the period of rampant euphoria of the last decade. In reality, however, there was no lack of factors that attenuated such attitudes. We went in the blink of an eye from the sour, immature, prickly, diluted and often defective wines of the past to products that are softer, rounder and fruitier. Perhaps a touch too marked by oak but even that, for heaven.s sake, is an indicator of renewal and modernity. It says .enough. with all those old, gross and stinking casks. And, then, why waste time with such irksome and capricious varieties like Sangiovese when we have at our disposal grapes of immediately efficacy like Cabernet and Merlot? The response to that question was wines that automatically raised the level of consumer satisfaction and enthused even us critics. What a difference from the .antique. wines! What a pleasure! What concentration! This is the new Italian and Tuscan wine! This is the model to follow! This type of recipe has worked without any setbacks until now but the first doubts are beginning to appear. The few bottles of some years ago are progressively becoming many, new vineyards are being planted and new estates are appearing, while others are giving themselves a makeover. Large numbers of wines have adopted the winning model or even expanding its intensity: super soft, super fruity, super concentrated and super boiséIn a few words, all are apparently more endowed but at the same time similar to one another. Have we, therefore, reached a notorious state of uniformity? Not yet, fortunately, but the risk is obvious and it is not easy to avoid it and to resist the pressures of the international market. The motive is clear. If I prepare wines with the flavor I have cited, which is accepted without complications by the majority of consumers and critics, the chances are good that I shall be able to sell it. At first glance, nothing to object to but, if we look more closely we may come to other conclusions. In a world context consisting not of a million but a billion bottles, a territory like Chianti Classico, which appears so big to us, represents only a small speck, the so-called niche. And, in a niche, what sense is there in having the prospect of producing wines with an international flavor beaten in advance on the level of price? We must, therefore, make our wine distinctive. Premium wines must possess recognizable characters traceable to the zone of origin. That is what occurred at Bordeaux where, with a minimum of experience, the taster cannot mistake a Pauillac for a Margaux, and even more so in Burgundy where an abyss separates a Chambertin from a Volnay. And that.s not to mention the clear difference between a Barolo from Monforte or another from La Morra. In Chianti Classico.but let.s expand the horizon to the whole of Tuscany.the imprint on a wine.s style of the enologist currently on duty is more frequently cited than the influence of the zone of origin. Please note, this is not an accusation directed at our technicians, who, like the referees in soccer, are among the best in the world. It is aimed instead at a diabolical system that demands determined results in time spans that, for viticulture are unnaturally short. The signs of the territory, on the other hand, emerge only with the value of the vineyard and will be much more incisive when the vines are older and more deeply rooted. Inevitably, more time is required along with a vision of greater depth and farsightedness in order to obtain results and a definite style. In that sense, the privilege, although it is not exclusive, of native varieties that are more acclimatized to the territory is manifest. And then we can finally emerge from the opportunism and the provisional character of the gilded cage made with false gold. We can withdraw from the internationality trap and create wines with more authentic characters, wines that are sapid and mineral, with marked but still elegant contrasts. They are drinkable and never boring or predictable. There is the loss, perhaps, of a pinch of fruit and the softness may be too facile but they are wines in magical accord with our cooking and with flavors that are just as decisive and never cloying. Ernesto Gentili

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Hoops viewing opportunity Jan 29

by Russell McCandless

Dear friends, If there are any basketball fans in the group, I have four tickets to the T-Wolves game on Monday, January 29, at 7:00 p.m. Call if you'd like to go. Seats are in the fifth row (I picked a United Healthcare executive's pocket). Let me know if you're interested - Russ Office 952-939-0321 Cell 763-458-9609

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Roederer Empire Expands Further

by russellmccandless＠frontiernet.net

Further evidence that the flagship brand Cristal is a license to print money: Champagne Louis Roederer announced yesterday its acquisition of Chateau Pichon-Lalande, as well as Chateau Bernadotte (AOC Haut-Medoc) which was already under common ownership with Pichon-Lalande. Roederer also owns Chateaux de Pez and Haut-Beausejour in St-Estephe; the Rhone producer Delas Freres; the Port producer Ramos Pinto; Champagne Deutz; California sparkling wine producers Roederer Estate and Scharffenberger Cellars; and the Provencal wine producer Domaines Ott.

18 years, 10 months

[wine] Town Talk 6:30 Sharp - Thursday

by Jim L. Ellingson

An update and some house keeping. Town Talk doesn't take reservations. It's important we're prompt since it doesn't look good for them to hold any tables if people are waiting. They're expecting 8 of us. Let Warren know if that number needs adjusting. Warren's suggested we buy a bottle of something off of their list. We're thinking wine, but if you go with that 40 oz of Colt 45, you're on your own. Greetings, We had a wonderful time at jP's. The meal and the merlot were both entertaining. It had been too long. Date: Mon, 11 Sep 2006 15:23:50 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Extreme Value Wine at Town Talk This week, "The Cheapest Wine you'd dare bring." is the cleaned up version of Bob's quote. Not necessarily talking retail here. Cheap is what you paid for it, not what it's worth. I suppose the "winner" is the least expensive yet still acceptable (LEYSA?). Thanks to Warren for setting it up with Town Talk. Frickles for everyone. 6:30 sharp on Thursday 11 Jan. TOWN TALK DINER, 2707 1/2 E. Lake St., Minneapolis, 612.722.1312; www.towntalkdiner.com. Parking is better north of Lake and East of TTalk. Yes Bob Betsy Lori Warren/Ruth Jim/Louise Jeff G Russ (maybe) Dave? The Chronicle's Top Bargain Wines of 2005 - W. Blake Gray, Leslie Sbrocco Thursday, December 29, 2005 2002 Alamos Mendoza Malbec ($10) Bodega Catena Zapata, which makes this wine, is one of the most prestigious wineries in Argentina. Laura Catena, vice president and a winemaker, is also an emergency room physician at UCSF Medical Center. There's no conflict between the jobs, because high-altitude Argentine Malbecs are said to be particularly high in resveratrol, a naturally occurring antioxidant in grapes that studies suggest helps prevent heart disease and cancer. Protect your heart while enjoying this juicy, full-bodied wine's intensity, complexity and quaffability. 2002 A-Mano Puglia Primitivo ($10) Primitivo is genetically identical to Zinfandel, though some believe it was imported to Italy from California, rather than making its way there from its birthplace in Croatia. In any case, this earthy yet fruity red from the Adriatic coast in southeastern Italy is made in a New World style by Mark Shannon, an American winemaker who now lives on "the boot." 2002 Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis ($10) The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat. The idea was to focus international attention on now-trendy Priorat wines, which have gone up in price. Accordingly, Montsant wines are like "second-growth Priorats," which can mean good value. This blend of mostly Grenache with Syrah is dense and layered, showcasing wild berry character tinged with smoky notes. 2004 Covey Run Columbia Valley Riesling ($8) Washington state's Covey Run Winery is one of about 27 quadrillion wineries now owned by Constellation Brands. Oddly, Covey Run is lumped by the company in the same subsidiary -- Canandaigua Wine -- with very low-end products including Manischewitz and Wild Irish Rose. This rich, sweet wine raises the standards of the portfolio with flavors and aromas of honey, ripe pear, Meyer lemon and white peach with strong floral accents. It's a good example of how delicious Washington Riesling can be. 2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Dry Chenin Blanc ($10) In 1991, California had more than 30,000 acres of Chenin Blanc, representing more than 17 percent of the state's white wine grapes, according to the California Agricultural Statistics Service. By 2004, total white wine grape plantings were up slightly, but Chenin Blanc had dropped under 12,000 acres because it lost favor in the industry. Most of that Chenin Blanc goes into jug wines, and few California wineries still produce it as a varietal. This wine shows why wineries shouldn't give up on it, with floral and ripe fruit notes that pair with zesty citrus flavors. 2004 Falesco Vitiano Umbria Ros�$8) The Falesco wines are made by Riccardo Cotarella, Italy's most sought-after consulting winemaker, and his brother Renzo, general manger at the prestigious Marchesi Antinori winery in Tuscany. This wine is made by vinifying a portion of the juice that comes from quickly crushing the same grapes -- Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Aleatico -- that go into Falesco's red blend. Watermelon and strawberry aromas waft from the glass, and a spicy kick finishes each sip. 2004 Geyser Peak California Sauvignon Blanc ($9) The Australian-born leaders of Geyser Peak Winery's winemaking team have always believed in unoaked, crisp styles of white wine, even when big, creamy, oaky whites were all the rage in California. This bottling from the Geyserville winery is in the New Zealand style, with flavors of gooseberry, pineapple and a hint of Meyer lemon. It's only moderately grassy, with additional aromas of dried apricot and pineapple, and is delicious with practically any kind of food. 2004 Heron California Chardonnay ($10) Laely Heron's parents were hippies who traveled the world in a Volkswagen van, taking her to live in places including Algeria, Morocco, South Africa, Botswana, Thailand and Malaysia. She studied winemaking in France and began her winemaking career with a Merlot from France's Languedoc region that she still produces. But her winery, Heron Wines, is based in San Francisco, and most of her wines -- including this one -- are made from California fruit. Tropical aromas leap from the glass; the flavors are lemon, lemon marmalade, passion fruit and mango with a touch of vanilla on the medium-length finish. NV HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Noir ($9) Don't wait to buy this wine. The brand was purchased in September by industry giant Constellation Brands, which changed winemakers. Because it's nonvintage -- which means grapes harvested in more than one year are blended -- it's not going to be possible to tell when the old regime's wine runs out and the new stock comes in. Ben Dollard, president of Constellation subsidiary Pacific Wine Partners, says the goal is to maintain quality while increasing production. Nonetheless, it was tempting to leave this wine off the list because of its uncertain future, but this year's release richly deserves the honor because it's a $9 wine that offers the soft fruit and complexity of a much more expensive Pinot Noir. Its aromas and flavors of cherry, cherry tobacco, red plum, tar, soy sauce and vanilla would merit a recommendation even if the wine cost three times as much. And it's named after a legendary 47-pound rooster, making it the heavyweight champ of this year's menagerie of critte! r wines. 2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10) There are probably more good bargain Shirazes on the market than any other red varietal, but they tend to be bold and simple rather than memorable. Moreover, bargain Syrah is often not easy to match with foods because of its big body and high alcohol. The 2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10) stands above its many peers because of its juicy, food-friendly fruit character and relatively restrained 13.5 percent alcohol. This is a delicious, complex wine, with flavors and aromas of ripe black currant, raspberry, black mission fig, earth and herbs. The tannins dry a bit on the medium-long finish. Jake, by the way, is supposed to be you, the consumer, according to the Allied Domecq Wines U.S.A. Web site. So if you don't love this wine, whose fault is it? 2004 Kono Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10) Kono is a food and beverage brand of Maori-owned Wakatu Inc. of Nelson, New Zealand. This wine takes advantage of the fact that the world center of great Sauvignon Blanc is now that country's Marlborough region. In its cool climate, the grape develops strong, pungent aromas and flavors of tropical fruit and fresh-mown grass that were shocking 20 years ago to fans of the more austere, mineral-driven wines made from Sauvignon Blanc in France's Loire region. Lately, those strong flavors have become the expectation, and sadly, few Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough can be had for $10. That's what makes this wine such a find. Its strong aromas and tangy flavors of passion fruit, pineapple, fresh-cut grass, white peach and white pepper are pure Marlborough, and they linger on the medium-long finish. 2003 The Magnificent Wine Co. Columbia Valley House Wine ($10) Charles Smith of K Vintners in Walla Walla is one of Washington state's hottest and most eclectic vintners; one of his Syrahs, priced at $40, was chosen earlier this month as The Chronicle's favorite from the entire state. This down-to-earth blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc is packed with rich, dark fruit flavors. It's a successful attempt by Smith to make a wine that people can have every day without being bored -- in other words, a "house wine," hence the name. 2003 Montevina Amador County Barbera ($10) The Italian varietal Barbera is perhaps the most underappreciated grape in the United States. It's widely grown but often ends up anonymously providing backbone for jug wines. When bottled on its own, it can be an outstanding dinner-table wine that combines two likable characteristics not found together often enough: a big body and palate-cleansing, food-friendly acidity. This Barbera by Montevina offers flavors of bright cherry with some earth and cherry tobacco and will pair wonderfully with pasta, pizza, red meat, pork and practically anything prepared with an Italian accent. You may not appreciate how good it is until you wonder why the bottle emptied so quickly. 2002 Parducci Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($8) The proprietors of Mendocino Wine Co., which owns Parducci Wine Cellars, were chosen as Winemakers to Watch by The Chronicle in 2005 because of the promise of wines like this one. Parducci is a good steward of the environment -- the company is converting its vineyards to organic farming and uses recycled and treeless paper on its labels and biodiesel in its trucks. This wine shows the company's vines are well worth nurturing. Its complex aroma would fool most Pinot-philes into thinking it costs three times as much; its flavor is of tangy cherry with some strawberry and soy sauce and musky hints. It's pretty amazing to get a Pinot Noir this good for $8. 2003 Pepperwood Grove California Cabernet Sauvignon ($8) Napa-based negociant Don Sebastiani & Sons is the most anonymous of the 10 wineries chosen by The Chronicle in August as our Best Budget Brands. The company made 1.5 million cases of wine in 2004, but none carried the family name. But wines this good earn names for themselves. The vanilla aroma is strong, indicating lots of exposure to oak, with additional scents of cherry and leather. On the palate, it's nicely balanced between cherry and vanilla flavors with notes of black tea and leather; more cherry keeps coming out on the medium-long finish. Considering the prices many California Cabernets fetch these days, quality this high for $8 is phenomenal. 2004 Raimat Costers del Segre Chardonnay ($8) The Raimat brand comes from the Raventos family that owns the Codorniu line of sparkling wines in Spain and Artesa winery in Napa. Manuel Raventos bought infertile salt plains abandoned by farmers in this semi-desert region of northeast Spain in 1914. It took the family 50 years of planting cattle fodder, pine trees and cereals before the soil was ready to become the vineyard that produced this wine. No oak was used in this wine, so it's fruity and vibrant, yet it will appeal to lovers of all types of Chardonnay because it has a creamy character gained from aging on its lees (spent yeast cells). 2003 Ruffino Libaio Toscana Chardonnay ($9) Ruffino is most famous for its high-end wines from the Chianti Classico region. Chardonnay from Italy is hardly traditional, but this one is quite refreshing, fruit-driven and crisp, smelling of Asian pear and sweet apple. Though no oak is used, this Chardonnay has a creamy complexity that comes from letting the wine rest on the lees for one month. This adds a layer of flavor to the wine while maintaining vibrant acidity. 2005 Simonsig Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc ($10) When Americans think of Africa, we tend to imagine hot, dry plains. For Stellenbosch, one of South Africa's best wine regions, that couldn't be further from the truth. Ocean breezes bring the average summer temperature of this beautiful area below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool weather helps give this wine its crisp character and juicy pear flavors, which are enhanced by mineral notes. Chenin Blanc has been South Africa's workhorse grape for many years, and this bottling shows why. 2004 Walnut Crest Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc ($7) This wine is shy about its homeland. You read Central Valley and think Fresno, but in this case it's a long valley running parallel to the Andes Mountains in Chile, just 50 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The country of origin is hidden in tiny type on the back label. Fortunately, this wine's aromas and flavors are the opposite of shy. Tangy pineapple and passion fruit jump from the glass, with notes of grass, apricot and white pepper. Sauvignon Blanc is still relatively rare in Chile, but this wine shows it has a bright future there. 2004 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($10) Lake County, due north of Napa County, is a relatively new frontier for North Coast wineries, so its cachet isn't as high as Marlborough, New Zealand, and neither are prices for its wines. This wine, made in the Marlborough style, is fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its citrusy freshness, then blended with a dash of Semillon to add a bit of lushness. ________________________________________ Best 10 bargains: He said, she said W. Blake Gray Whites 2004 Covey Run Columbia Valley Riesling ($8) 2004 Geyser Peak California Sauvignon Blanc ($9) 2004 Heron California Chardonnay ($10) 2004 Kono Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10) 2004 Walnut Crest Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc ($7) Reds NV HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Noir ($9) 2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10) 2003 Montevina Amador County Barbera ($10) 2002 Parducci Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($8) 2003 Pepperwood Grove California Cabernet Sauvignon ($8) ________________________________________ Best 10 bargains: He said, she said Leslie Sbrocco Whites 2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Dry Chenin Blanc ($10) 2004 Raimat Costers del Segre Chardonnay ($8) 2003 Ruffino Libaio Toscana Chardonnay ($9) 2005 Simonsig Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc ($10) 2004 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($10) Ros�2004 Falesco Vitiano Umbria Ros�$8) Reds 2002 Alamos Mendoza Malbec ($10) 2002 A-Mano Puglia Primitivo ($10) 2002 Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis ($10) 2003 The Magnificent Wine Co. Columbia Valley House Wine ($10) Page F - 4 URL: http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/12/29/WIG99GE1IE1.DTL ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

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