Our weekly outing will be at the Signature Cafe. Because of space
limitations our reservation is for 10. I have a list of nine so there is
one spot open. If you are interested I need to know by early Wednesday to
let them know there will be one less person.
Signature Cafe
130 SE Warwick
(Franklin Ave and Warwick)
FIRST COURSE
Cheese Course White Bordeaux
SECOND COURSE
Greens and Cured Meats Merlot Based Bordeaux
THIRD COURSE
Beef/Red Wine Sauce Cabernet Based Bordeaux
FOURTH COURSE
Pastry and Fruit Sauterne
Price is $55 which includes meal/tax/tip/corkage.
Joyce
Bob
Betsy
Ruth
Lori
Jim
Louise
Russ
Sue
Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 21:09:55 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] [jellings(a)me.umn.edu: Cabs at Erte]
Quick update. I'll put myself down for Aussie
in the interest of coverage.
Looks like 11 people on the list. I'd reserve for 12.
C U there.
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:12:47 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Cabs at Erte
Greetings,
We had a wonderful time at Warren and Ruth's. Great
way to spend a blustery evening. Many many thanks.
This week, it's dissertation time.
Thesis: Compare and Contrast Cabs from around the world.
Assignment: Pick an "open" country or two and bring a cab
you think will speak of that source. Big, small, short, tall,
bring one, bring all.
Grading: A for attendance. A plus for transcendence.
Open = less than two committed to that region/country.
If we fill all (2 each) then we can add additionals.
S. Africa Betsy, Bob closed
France Warren and Lori closed
Washington Ruth and
California Annette S. Russ Russ
domestic Nicolai
S. America Karin Jim
Australia Jim Jim Annette
Russ: Two from CA
Jim: 2 Aussie, 1 S. America
Annette: is coming, bringing an Aussie and a ???
Joyce may join us on her way home.
Alicia Anderson is double booked, will not be joining us.
Since bob and I are keeping the list, we will fill in
one or three spots on Thursday morning.
Warren is our Master of Caber-monies, will flight
them as he sees fit.
My vote is for mixed flighting (e.g. Fr., Cal, S. Africa and
S. America in a flight. WA, Cal, Fr and Aussie in a flight
and so on. My thought is we do flights of XX every week.
(e.g. last night, all Rhones) It's just one vote.
Why not use yours.
Good seats available.
Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome.
Erte Restaurant.
329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413
612-623-4211
6:30 on Thursday.
Cheers,
Jim
Other events.
Signature on 3/22 Thursday. 4 course, prix fixe.
Surdyks Sale. on going.
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Quick update. I'll put myself down for Aussie
in the interest of coverage.
Looks like 10 people on the list. I'd reserve for 12.
C U there.
Date: Mon, 5 Mar 2007 18:12:47 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Cabs at Erte
Greetings,
We had a wonderful time at Warren and Ruth's. Great
way to spend a blustery evening. Many many thanks.
This week, it's dissertation time.
Thesis: Compare and Contrast Cabs from around the world.
Assignment: Pick an "open" country or two and bring a cab
you think will speak of that source. Big, small, short, tall,
bring one, bring all.
Grading: A for attendance. A plus for transcendence.
Open = less than two committed to that region/country.
If we fill all (2 each) then we can add additionals.
S. Africa Betsy, Bob closed
France Warren and Lori closed
Washington Ruth and
California Annette S.
domestic Nicolai
S. America Karin
Australia Jim
Russ: Prefers California but also has Australia and WA
Jim: can do Cal, WA, Aussie, S. America
Alicia Anderson is double booked, will not be joining us.
Since bob and I are keeping the list, we will fill in
one or three spots on Thursday morning.
Warren is our Master of Caber-monies, will flight
them as he sees fit.
My vote is for mixed flighting (e.g. Fr., Cal, S. Africa and
S. America in a flight. WA, Cal, Fr and Aussie in a flight
and so on. My thought is we do flights of XX every week.
(e.g. last night, all Rhones) It's just one vote.
Why not use yours.
Good seats available.
Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome.
Erte Restaurant.
329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413
612-623-4211
6:30 on Thursday.
Cheers,
Jim
Other events.
Signature on 3/23.
Surdyks Sale. on going.
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2007 10:21:13 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] World of Cabs at Erte
Greetings,
We had a wonderful time at Warren and Ruth's. Great
way to spend a blustery evening. Many many thanks.
This week, it's dissertation time.
Thesis: Compare and Contrast Cabs from around the world.
Assignment: Pick an "open" country or two and bring a cab
you think will speak of that source. Big, small, short, tall,
bring one, bring all.
Grading: A for attendance. A plus for transcendence.
Open = less than two committed to that region/country.
If we fill all (2 each) then we can add additionals.
S. Africa Betsy, Bob closed
France Warren and Lori closed
Washington Ruth and
California
domestic Nicolai
S. America Karin
Australia
Russ: Prefers California but also has Australia and WA
Jim: can do Cal, WA, Aussie, S. America
Alicia Anderson is double booked, will be arriving later.
Since bob and I are keeping the list, we will fill in
one or three spots on Thursday morning.
Warren is our Master of Caber-monies, will flight
them as he sees fit.
My vote is for mixed flighting (e.g. Fr., Cal, S. Africa and
S. America in a flight. WA, Cal, Fr and Aussie in a flight
and so on. My thought is we do flights of XX every week.
(e.g. last night, all Rhones) It's just one vote.
Why not use yours.
Good seats available.
Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome.
Erte Restaurant.
329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413
612-623-4211
6:30 on Thursday.
your_name_here??
Cheers,
Jim
Other events.
Signature on 3/23.
Surdyks Sale. on going.
Greetings,
We had a wonderful time at Warren and Ruth's. Great
way to spend a blustery evening. Many many thanks.
This week, it's dissertation time.
Thesis: Compare and Contrast Cabs from around the world.
Assignment: Pick an "open" country or two and bring a cab
you think will speak of that source. Big, small, short, tall,
bring one, bring all.
Grading: A for attendance. A plus for transcendence.
Open = less than two committed to that region/country.
If we fill all (2 each) then we can add additionals.
S. Africa Betsy, Bob closed
France Warren and
Washington Ruth and
Australia
California
S. America
I'm coming, can bring Aussie, S. America and even Cal.
Since bob and I are keeping the list, we will fill in
one or three spots on Thursday morning.
Warren is our Master of Caber-monies, will flight
them as he sees fit.
My vote is for mixed flighting (e.g. Fr., Cal, S. Africa and
S. America in a flight. WA, Cal, Fr and Aussie in a flight
and so on. My thought is we do flights of XX every week.
(e.g. last night, all Rhones) It's just one vote.
Why not use yours.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Wed, 6 Dec 2006 13:07:32 -0600
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2006 14:44:18 -0500
Good seats available.
Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome.
Erte Restaurant.
329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413
612-623-4211
6:30 on Thursday.
your_name_here??
Cheers,
Jim
Other events.
Signature on 3/23.
Zoo Tasting at Sir Dykes today and tomorrow. free.
Surdyks Sale. on going.
IS TERROIR DEAD?
It's man vs. Mother Nature in shaping California wines
Karen MacNeil, Special to The Chronicle
Wednesday, September 18, 2002
In the Middle Ages, Burgundian monks began to delineate a... The Nitty-Gritty: If it's not terroir that shows through ...
It is a small fact, but one that speaks volumes: There is no word for winemaker in French (or in Spanish, Italian or German). The word the French use is vigneron, meaning vine grower.
It points out the deeply ingrained European belief that wine is made by nature, not by man. For most Europeans, the idea of man as winemaker is, at the very least, a bit egotistical (and many would say quintessentially American). Worse, it seems to sweep aside a truth held for centuries in the Old World -- namely, that wine, at least fine wine, is at its core the reflection of a place.
It's 2002, and you're sitting at a wine bar drinking a Cabernet that costs $15 a glass. You like it -- a lot. Why, you might wonder, is the wine so good? Did it come from a great vineyard in a top appellation? Or did the especially talented winemaker use some razzle-dazzle technique?
Place or person? It's a question that quietly nags at the California wine industry, arguably the most technologically sophisticated (and inclined) in the world, and yet an industry that romantically likes to think of itself as following in the wine steps of the Old World. Lately, the duality sometimes has seemed almost blatant.
On the one hand, a phrase like "our wine is made in the vineyard" has become such standard winery PR-speak that it's close to becoming a cliche; on the other hand, peek inside most California wineries and what do you see? Every high-tech, computer-driven, shiny new gadget and piece of equipment that exists.
So how much is a vineyard responsible for the way a California wine tastes? How much does the classic concept of terroir have meaning here?
"It's the question of the moment -- the enological equivalent of, 'Is God dead?' " says Randall Grahm, proprietor and winemaker of Bonny Doon Vineyards in Santa Cruz.
"Is terroir dead? All of a sudden that is the question. Maybe because we're experiencing the pain of its absence. We're sensing its loss. Without terroir, winemaking is a hollow game, a hall of mirrors," Grahm says.
Some background: Terroir is the French word used to describe the combined effect of soil, slope, and every aspect of geology and topography (orientation to the sun and elevation, to name two examples), plus every nuance of climate (from rainfall and wind to frequency of fog and cumulative hours of sunshine) on a vineyard site and hence on the character and quality of the grapes grown there.
While there is no single-word translation of terroir in English, the French will often use this one word to explain why a wine tastes the way it does.
What makes terroir especially spellbinding is how purely and perfectly it can reveal itself. Taste two Pinot Noirs from the same small Burgundian domaine made from the same variety by the same person using the same process and the same minimal equipment, and yet they taste remarkably different. How else can one account for so intriguing a phenomenon except through the mysteries of place, of terroir?
The idea that certain sites give rise to wines with distinctive flavors is not new. But it wasn't until the Middle Ages, when the monks of Burgundy began to delineate and codify the region's vineyards, that terroir became the critical core of viticulture. Plot by plot, they studiously compared vineyards and the wines made from them, recording their impressions over centuries. Burgundy's hierarchical classification of vineyards into Village Cru, Premier Cru and Grand Cru were the result of this massive viticultural experiment.
"The reason you can taste terroir in red Burgundies today," says Paul Draper, CEO and winemaker of Ridge Vineyards in Cupertino, "is that you're tasting wines from expert winegrowers who have a high level of expertise and who follow a tradition that's deeply ingrained. In California, a winemaker has to be very focused on having the place provide the basic character of the wine,
rather than on something he does. If terroir is going to be expressed, then he has to let the wine more or less make itself. There are very few California winemakers who are truly that hands-off."
Grahm puts it more bluntly. "California wines are generally so tricked-up that if we had terroir, we wouldn't know it. It's almost as if we're the Department of Terroir Prevention."
If it's not terroir that shows through in much of California wine, what does?
"We're giving people what they want," says Grahm, "power, intensity, softness, a mouthful of fruit. Everything except soul. Everything except real personality. Our wines are like a person who's so agreeable you want to murder him."
For Draper, California winemakers using a lot of what he calls "tricks of the trade" are not expressing terroir, but rather are following a philosophy and answering a need. "They are trying to give their customers the best wine possible and to do that they'll use every technique possible," he says. "That philosophy gives us good inexpensive drinking wine because the winemaker has stepped in and provided what the site has not."
Does that mean that the Merlot you and I and 2 million other people buy each year for $12 categorically does not reflect terroir?
"The larger the volume of wine, the more diverse the blend, and the more you blend place out of the picture," says Rosemary Cakebread, winemaker for Spottswoode in the Napa Valley. "It's like a committee -- the more people involved, the more generic the decision has to be. On the other hand, the smaller the vineyard, the more you see the stamp, the real character of a certain piece of ground."
Seeing the character of a given piece of ground is not necessarily every winemaker's goal, however. Ed Sbragia, winemaster for Beringer, points to the winery's Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon -- $80, appellation Napa Valley -- a blend of Cabernet from seven different vineyards in the Napa Valley, which he admits does not show off an individual terroir.
"We're trying to make the best wine possible," he says. "Blending helps you make the wine that's idealized in your mind. In this case, we think the sum of the parts is more than any individual part. And in any case, I've never heard a winemaker complain that a wine is too flavorful, too rich. Private Reserve has a personality that comes from what we winemakers do and from blending, but it's based on top terroirs."
Historically, single-vineyard wines from distinctive terroirs cost more. Chateau Latour, which comes from a single vineyard, costs more than a wine labeled Bordeaux, which is made up of a blend of different wines from all over the region. But scan the shelves of any wine shop and you'll see all kinds of wines, including those with the appellation California, that cost $100 a bottle.
"When a wine is made with a lot of technique and it costs a lot, it upsets me," says Draper. "Good as that wine may be, it's not deserving of its price because it doesn't represent wine at its essence."
Let's take a wine that is the product of a single place or terroir. Are all terroirs equally compelling?
Probably not. Most winemakers agree that the Earth has its own eno- erogenous zones -- places where the wine that emerges is just plain thrilling. And not just once or twice, but thrilling virtually year after year, maybe for centuries. There are also countless vineyards and wine regions that produce good, serviceable but rarely captivating wine -- even in the hands of the most extraordinary winemaker.
"It's like the old adage, 'You can turn filet mignon into hamburger but not hamburger into filet mignon,' " says John Alban, proprietor/winemaker of Alban Vineyards in Arroyo Grande (San Luis Obispo County). "I don't think winemaking ever transforms grapes into a level of quality they inherently don't have."
So how many great sites are there in the world? "It isn't even 1 percent," says Draper.
But Alban wonders. "Maybe it's like a child prodigy. Maybe your son is an incredible opera singer, but if you decide the only thing of merit is athletics, your son may never achieve anything. So if Chardonnay is the only grape that matters, then you may never know you've got one of the great sites for Grenache. There are potentially an enormous number of great terroirs in the world. We've only just scratched the surface."
Cakebread agrees that much is dependent on the variety. "All varieties are not equally good for all terroirs," she says. "Worldwide, Sauvignon Blanc is a gypsy. It makes great wine, from Calistoga to South Africa. Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't do that."
One of the places Cabernet Sauvignon does seem to make great wine is the Stags Leap District in the Napa Valley. Recently, for example, Shafer Vineyards was honored by Wine & Spirits magazine (Fall 2002 Special Issue) as one of the world's top 25 vineyards based on the excellence of its Hillside Select Cabernet Sauvignon.
So is it place or do proprietor Doug Shafer and winemaker Elias Fernandez do something special?
Shafer pauses. "Terroir goes beyond soil, beyond climate, beyond location and exposure," he says. "It sounds corny, but I think the land itself has to have a kind of passion. And there has to be passion in the winemaking as well.
"Terroir may be there on its own, but to have it show through in the wine, you have to have passion for and respect for its presence. If you don't respect that idea, don't think about it, don't care about it constantly, terroir is completely lost."
Karen MacNeil is the author of "The Wine Bible" (Workman Publishing, 2001) and the Chair of Wine Programs at the Culinary Institute of America at Greystone.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/chronicle/archive/2002/09/18/FD105…
This article appeared on page FD - 7 of the San Francisco Chronicle
Meeting tomorrow night, 6:30. BYOSS
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 2007 10:52:18 -0600
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Warren and Ruth are preparing a mousaka.
Rhone style Wines
Hard Limit of 8.
Please coordinate side dishes w/ the BG's. (Bixler-Gregorys).
Best,
Jim
and a side and they should RSVP to us either by phone
(651-698-5337) or e-mail (gregory.warren(a)yahoo.com)
We will encourage a dessert from one person and a
relish tray from another so if anyone has a urge to
take up one of those asssignments they are welcom.
> From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
> To: wine(a)thebarn.com
>
> > I-94 to Cretin-Vandalia. Go south to Randolph,
> East to 2139.
> >
> > Warren, Ruth Gregory 651-698-5337
> > 2139 Randolph 55105
>
> Yeses
>
> Warren/Ruth Mousaka
> Jim Breads
Bob Cheeses
Betsy Salad?
Three spots remaining:
BYOSS = Bring Your Own Snow Shovel.
Cheers,
Jim
Great Occasions Call for Great French Reds
Wednesday, December 20, 2006; F02
Christmas and holiday dinners deserve a wine that is truly special. One of the best choices is Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France's most affordable great red wine.
Made from a blend of up to 13 grape varieties, this full-bodied wine from the southern Rhone valley can compete in mellow complexity and aging ability with the top wines of Burgundy and Bordeaux, at much lower prices (starting at $25).
Offering ultra-ripe, complex flavors of black fruit, pepper, Provencal herbs and cherry kirsch, Chateauneuf-du-Pape matches especially well with holiday recipes of beef, duck and goose. After dinner, it's one of the few dry reds that has the richness to be sipped with cheese or semisweet chocolate desserts.
Cotes-du-Rhone and Cotes-du-Rhone Villages, most of which is made in vineyards surrounding Chateauneuf-du-Pape, also can offer a good deal of style and are even more affordable. (Prices start at about $10.)
Prices are approximate. In addition to the contact information listed, resources for finding wines includehttp://www.winesearcher.comandhttp://www.wineaccess.com. Call stores to verify availability.
CHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
Chateau Mont Thabor 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($36; Jack Siler Selections, Country Vintner, 800-365-9463): Imbued with great perfume and intensity, this sumptuous wine rings with the flavors of ripe cherries, licorice and roasted Provencal herbs all the way through the long finish. An exceptional wine at its peak.
Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2005/2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($25; Elite Wines Imports, 202-345-3623, lisa.giufre(a)elitewines.net) A joy to drink now even though still young; spicy on the nose, with pure, densely packed fruit on the palate. Great value.
Patrick Lesec 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape Pierres Dorees ($45; Constantine Wines, 410-309-9463, maggie_constantinewines(a)yahoo.com) Patrick Lesec 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape les Galets Blonds ($54): I slightly prefer the Pierres Dorees bottling over the more expensive Galets Blonds, but both are outstanding, with subtle oak and violet aromas and exceptionally deep fruit flavors.
Domaine Grand Veneur (Alain Jaume) 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($44; Kysela Pere et Fils Ltd., 540-722-9228); Alain Jaume 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($37): Focused, concentrated and long, the 2004 Grand Veneur offers currant and plum flavors highlighted by notes of wild herbs and anise. The 2003 Alain Jaume, from the same producer, offers the riper, more exotic fruit of that vintage.
Domaine de Monpertuis 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($41; Rosenthal Wine Merchant/Potomac Selections, 301-583-8844): Full-bodied, concentrated and deeply fruity, with exotic, complex notes of wild herbs and cherry/kirsch in the bouquet.
Les Cailloux 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($44; Robert Kacher Selections/Washington Wholesale, 202-832-9083): Even better than the delectable 2003, with a deep purple color, spice-box aromas of herbs and earth, and opulent flavors of blackberries and ground pepper with a hint of fig.
COTES-DU-RHONE AND COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES
Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 Cotes-du-Rhone Parallele 45 ($12; NDC, 202-388-8235): Bright, fleshy fruit with good grip on the finish.
J.L. Chave Selection 2004/2003 Cotes-du-Rhone Mon Coeur ($19; Bacchus, 443-692-6020): Get a taste of the legendary Chave Hermitage style for about one-20th the price.
Selection Laurence Feraud Seguret 2005 ($15; Hand Picked Selections, john.heinel(a)handpickedselections.com) This Seguret packs a lot of flavor for the price.
Do you have a question for wine columnist Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood(a)washpost.com.
Mostly an update, and some future things:
Bob's Cab Class at Erte:
Sometime during the Big S Sale, go to Erte w/ assigned wines.
e.g. 2 people each bring a cab from
1. Califonia
2. Australia
3. S. America
4. Washington
5. France
etc.
Bubbles Brdx at Signature on 22 March.
Four course Prix Fixe at Signature.
Chef is doing food to match/compliment Brdx.
I'll assign Bob the Sauterne. :)
C U Tonite.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2007 13:58:53 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Pinot at Emma's tomorrow
We're going back to Emma's for Pinot. Last time, Bob requested
"Proven Pinots" and that worked well quality wise, although
the suspects were "usual".
I'd prefer to see us maintain a diversity of offerings.
That said, I won't be bringing anything
from Transylvania for a good long while.
I've heard from several people, one way or the other.
Bill has Spokane.
Emma's Restaurant and Lounge
2817 Lyndale Ave S, Mpls.
612.879.5800
Pinots at Emmas. 2817 Lyndale (was 3 Muses?).
Bob
Betsy
Russ/Sue
Joyce (is a maybe at this point)
Ruth
Jim
Annette S
Lori
Nicolai/Karin
Cheers,
Jim
Emma's Restaurant and Lounge
A low-key neighborhood sweetheart with fine-dining aspirations, Emma's is where you'll find young chef and owner Emily Streeter cooking her likable French-touched classics. For dinner you'll find carefully made bistro classics as well as more ambitious showpieces. Streeter works particularly well with flavors along a single theme: One wintertime special of goose fat-braised duck crusted with fines herbes and served in a smoked tomato duck stock with potatoes, leeks, and fresh baby fava beans was unforgettable. During weekend brunch, unpretentious dishes like fried-egg cutouts and French toast as fluffy as bed pillows brighten every table--and cost the same as at nearby style-less diners. Emma's back lounge is a hidden oasis, and the wine, cocktails, and privacy are a welcome after-dinner treat for those who want a drink, but not a bar. American Posh. $$-$$$, Breakfast / Brunch, Great Bar.
We're going back to Emma's for Pinot. Last time, Bob requested
"Proven Pinots" and that worked well quality wise, although
the suspects were "usual".
I'd prefer to see us maintain a diversity of offerings.
That said, I won't be bringing anything
from Transylvania for a good long while.
I've heard from several people, one way or the other.
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Tue, 19 Dec 2006 13:27:55 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Pinot at Emma's
Emma's Restaurant and Lounge
2817 Lyndale Ave S, Mpls.
612.879.5800
Pinots at Emmas. 2817 Lyndale (was 3 Muses?).
Bob
Betsy
Russ/Sue
Joyce
Ruth
Jim
Annette S
Lori
Bill
?
Cheers,
Jim
Emma's Restaurant and Lounge
A low-key neighborhood sweetheart with fine-dining aspirations, Emma's is where you'll find young chef and owner Emily Streeter cooking her likable French-touched classics. For dinner you'll find carefully made bistro classics as well as more ambitious showpieces. Streeter works particularly well with flavors along a single theme: One wintertime special of goose fat-braised duck crusted with fines herbes and served in a smoked tomato duck stock with potatoes, leeks, and fresh baby fava beans was unforgettable. During weekend brunch, unpretentious dishes like fried-egg cutouts and French toast as fluffy as bed pillows brighten every table--and cost the same as at nearby style-less diners. Emma's back lounge is a hidden oasis, and the wine, cocktails, and privacy are a welcome after-dinner treat for those who want a drink, but not a bar. American Posh. $$-$$$, Breakfast / Brunch, Great Bar.
----- End forwarded message -----
A Finicky Grape With a Friendly Side
Wednesday, January 24, 2007; F02
I've often wondered whether pinot noir is the wine folks really want when they order a cabernet sauvignon. It's friendlier, fruitier and more food-compatible. Though cabernet sauvignon is a great wine, it needs a lot of time in the cellar to reveal its magnificence, and its cedary, herbal flavors are something of an acquired taste.
Until recently, the only reliable source of truly tasty pinot noir was the Cote d'Or region of Burgundy. Red Burgundy is the purest expression of pinot noir's delectable melange of bing cherry, vanilla bean and roast meat character, but it's often expensive, and the Burgundy nomenclature can be difficult to understand.
American winemakers were slow to master the finicky pinot noir grape; their attempts tasted more like stringy versions of Beaujolais, zinfandel or syrah. But by the time sales of pinot took off in the wake of the 2004 motion picture "Sideways," winemakers had figured out that the grape must be planted in just the right places and handled extremely gently in the winery, and as a result, quality has soared. Though there's been some grumbling that new American pinot noirs are getting too intense and super-fruity, I've found just the opposite. If anything, the wines have become more fragrant and delicate, which is precisely what pinot noir should be.
Here's a list in order of personal preference, based on the rapport between quality and price. Wines are from California except where noted. Resources for finding wines include http://www.winesearcher.com and http://www.wineaccess.com. Call stores to verify availability. Prices are approximate.
Ponzi Vineyards Tavola 2005 Pinot Noir "Willamette Valley" ($25; Oregon): Irresistibly drinkable and luscious, from one of Oregon's best wineries. Copious black cherry and pomegranate fruit, with notes of toast and black currant.
Lily 2005 Pinot Noir "Sonoma County" ($25): A fine center of deep, dark cherry fruit and teasing touches of vanilla beans and spice on the finish.
Meridian 2005 Pinot Noir "Central Coast" ($11): An excellent value, with authentic pinot noir flavors in a quaffable style. Serve lightly chilled.
Wild Horse 2005 Pinot Noir "Central Coast" ($20; half-bottle $12): Fragrant and berry-accented.
Paraiso 2003 Pinot Noir "Santa Lucia Highlands" ($25): Powerfully concentrated.
Martin Ray 2005 Pinot Noir "Santa Barbara County" ($25): Vivid ripe cherry and strawberry flavors energizing an elegant, silky wine.
De Loach 2005 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" ($24): De Loach is back with admirable pinot noirs, including this exotically ripe one.
Lockwood Vineyard 2005 Pinot Noir "Block 7" ($19): Effusively fruity with soft tannins; highly quaffable.
Gino da Pinot 2005 Pinot Noir "Monterey County" ($17): Excellent value, offering fresh cherry fruit lightly accented by oak.
River Road Vineyards and Winery 2005 Pinot Noir "Russian River Valley" ($18): Pretty fruit layered over soft tannins.
Beringer 2005 Pinot Noir "Third Century Central Coast" ($14): Rose petal and red fruit aromas; a well-made, food-friendly pinot noir from California's cool Central Coast.
Jacuzzi Family Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir "Carneros" ($23): Chewy flavors of black raspberry, currants and chocolate; an ideal accompaniment to a thick porterhouse.
Yamhill Valley Vineyards 2005 Pinot Noir "Estate" ($20; Oregon): Vigorous, balanced flavors of roast meat and red fruit.
Ramsay 2005 Pinot Noir "North Coast" ($22): Solid pinot flavors over a firm, tannic finish.
Chateau St. Jean 2004 Pinot Noir "Sonoma County" ($19): Soft cranberry and pomegranate, accented with herbs and minerals.
R. Stuart & Co. Big Fire 2005 Pinot Noir ($19; Oregon): Lots of Oregon's trademark red berry fruit.
Rodney Strong 2005 Pinot Noir "Estate Vineyards Russian River Valley" ($22): Lean flavors and a crisp edge of acidity; a great match with salmon.
Do you have a question for Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood(a)washpost.com. Please include your name and address.
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Just a quick update. Great night for structured food/wine.
Many thanks to all who responded yea or nay. I've got 7 confirmed.
Date: Thu, 15 Feb 2007 00:08:33 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] [jellings(a)me.umn.edu: Italian at DaVinci]
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 14:02:27 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: Italian at DaVinci
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 10:21:16 -0500
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Any Italy at Trat. de Vinci
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Italian Wines. (2/15)
Trattoria da Vinci
400 Sibley St., St. Paul, 55101
651 222-4050
It's in the "far end" of down town St. Paul, near the Farmer's
Market. If you're traveling on I94, take the 7th St. Exit.
Who?
Bob
Lori
Janet
Ruth and Warren
Annette
Jim
Dave?
Nicolai?
Karin?
Cheers,
Jim
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 14:02:27 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: Italian at DaVinci
Date: Wed, 9 Aug 2006 10:21:16 -0500
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Any Italy at Trat. de Vinci
----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> -----
Italian Wines. (2/15)
Trattoria da Vinci
400 Sibley St., St. Paul, 55101
651 222-4050
It's in the "far end" of down town St. Paul, near the Farmer's
Market. If you're traveling on I94, take the 7th St. Exit.
Who?
Bob
Lori
Janet
Ruth yes Warren ??
Dave?
Nicolai?
Karin?
Annette?
Cheers,
Jim
