April 11, 2009
Pairing Wine With Chinese Food
By JEN LINLIU
BEIJING . The red, Sichuan peppercorn-spiked gravy that covered the tender slices of beef served as a warning: This was going to be no easy task. .This is where most people reach for the beer,. said Campbell Thompson, a Beijing-based wine importer.
.Or maybe just a glass of water,. said another guest.
.Or maybe just white rice,. chimed in a third dinner partner.
On a recent Tuesday evening, I gathered a group of eight wine and Chinese cuisine experts in my courtyard kitchen in central Beijing to taste a broad range of 10 Chinese dishes with eight wines. The goal was to test the common perception that it.s challenging . or downright impossible . to pair wines with Chinese cuisine.
The Chinese have a dinnertime tradition of drinking baijiu, a high-grade Chinese grain alcohol, but in recent years, more international wines have begun to appear on restaurant menus in China, from the most traditional state-owned Chinese restaurants to trendy ones like Lan and Da Dong in Beijing.
But even as wine lists have emerged at restaurants in Beijing and Shanghai, some wine experts argue that little thought has gone into putting those wine lists together. Burgundies, costly bottles of Lafite, and anything labeled Bordeaux are often served at lavish Chinese meals meant to impress important guests. But some wine experts say that those wines clash with the spice and complex flavors of Sichuanese food and are too heavy to go with the delicate seafood dishes of Cantonese cuisine.
.The young nature of the local wine market is what inhibits creative wine pairings,. said Gabriel Suk, the senior representative in Asia for the Chicago-based wine auction house Hart Davis Hart. .Chinese restaurants are told what to purchase by the local distributor, who might be making decisions based on sales margins rather than a concerted effort to find the best pairing..
Another challenge in pairing wines with Chinese cuisine is the complexity of sauces and ingredients that go into the dishes, said Fongyee Walker, who owns the Beijing wine consultancy Dragon Phoenix Wines with her husband, Edward Ragg. In Western cooking, she said, .you can almost think of the wine as a sauce that goes with the dish..
.In Chinese cooking,. she continued, .the dishes are already balanced and complete in themselves. For example, a touch of sugar goes into almost every savory Chinese dish..
The upside is that because pairing wine with Chinese cuisine is a relatively new concept, .it.s a blank slate,. said Mr. Ragg.
I figured my kitchen, where I hold cooking classes and private dinners, would be a good place to discover what works. Joining me for the dinner were Mr. Thompson, Mr. Ragg and Ms. Walker; Melissa Wong and Robert Chu, a Chinese-American couple living in Beijing who are avid wine drinkers; Fiona Sun, the editor of the magazine Wine in China; and Vicky Lok, a Guangzhou-based wine broker.
For the occasion, Mr. Thompson, who owns a wine importing company called The Wine Republic, donated four white wines, one pinot noir rosélend, and three red wines from the New and Old World that retailed from 170 yuan to 520 yuan, or $25 to $75, in Beijing.
Mr. Thompson chose light to medium-bodied wines, and reds with lower tannins, too much of which can clash with salt and spice. Dishes were served in order of their complexity of flavors, beginning with lighter dishes and ending with two dishes loaded with Sichuan peppercorns and dried chili peppers, before moving on to a dessert of candied .basi. apples, a common Beijing dish.
One definite winner of the evening was a semisweet riesling. The 2007 Mount Difficulty Target Gully Riesling from Marlborough, New Zealand, stood up to spicy, more complex dishes, including kungpao cashew chicken with its sugar, black Shanxi vinegar, chili peppers, and faint hint of Sichuan peppercorns. With a medium body and high acidity, the riesling balanced the sugar, salt, and even the pickled flavor of the wok-fried bamboo shoots.
By contrast, a 2007 Seresin Estate Sauvignon Blanc also from Marlborough, New Zealand, while slightly effervescent and zingy on its own, was too light to retain its identity when awash with other flavors.
.I love rieslings; they go well with Chinese cuisine because the mouth-feel is quite refreshing,. said Ms. Sun, the magazine editor. .The range of dry to sweet rieslings can match all types of Chinese food, plus it.s never too heavy, but rather fresh and fruity..
We also discovered two other versatile wines: a 2007 grüeltliner from Nigl, an Austrian winery, and a 2006 Yering Station pinot noir rosérom the Yarra Valley in Australia. The light pepper and fruity aroma of the grüeltliner, a lesser-known white grape that is almost exclusively grown in central Europe, complemented the steamed sea bass and the stir-fried cabbage hearts with shiitake mushrooms. The soft texture, subtle tannins and floral notes of the extra-dry pinot noir roséade it go well with nearly everything from the pan-fried pork and pumpkin dumplings to the sweet and sour pork (which turned out to be one of the hardest dishes to pair).
One surprise was that the 2006 Te Tera pinot noir from the Martinborough Vineyard in New Zealand worked quite well with several dishes, including twice-cooked pork. The spice, sugar and lightly fermented sauces of the pork dish amplified the pinot noir with light tannins, making it taste more like a full-bodied merlot.
Two wines that did not find a place on the table were the 2006 Miss Harry blend of grenache, shiraz and mourvèe from Hewitson in South Australia and a 2005 red Burgundy, the Hautes Cô de Nuits from A.F. Gros. .I can see these going with something heavier, like red-braised pork,. Mr. Ragg said.
We also found it difficult to match any of the wines with two dishes laced with Sichuan peppercorns, the oil-braised beef and the Chongqing spicy chicken. They clashed with each sip of even the more elegant wines, like the light-bodied 2007 Chablis Premier Cru from Jean-Marc Brocard and the red Burgundy. Each taste set off an echo chamber of numbing spice in my mouth. .It.s a lovely dish on its own,. Mr. Ragg said, almost apologetically. He suggested that perhaps a palette-cleansing sparkling wine might be interesting to try with Sichuan peppercorn dishes on another occasion.
The evening demonstrated that pairing wine with Chinese cuisine wasn.t as difficult as it seemed, save a few Sichuan peppercorns. Mr. Suk, the wine auction house representative, suggested that if a Chinese restaurant doesn.t have a decent wine list, bringing your own bottle is usually an option. Corkage fees at Chinese restaurants in China and abroad are typically low, ranging from $5 to $10, while many hole-in-the-wall eateries may allow you to bring wine for free.
The evening also showed the enthusiasm the Chinese have for wine.
Winemakers should be heartened by the conversion of Ms. Lok, the wine broker from Guangzhou, who had primarily consumed baijiu before tasting her first imported wine in 2006. She soon learned about the difference between New and Old World wines and became an avid drinker of the wines of Spain, Germany and Argentina. But she still vividly remembers her first sip of an imported wine: .It was a south Australian shiraz. It was so much better than the Chinese wines I.d had in the past, and you didn.t have to add Sprite to it..
Jen Lin-Liu is the owner of the Black Sesame Kitchen cooking school in Beijing and the author of ..Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China...
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Any interest in meeting next week?
Warren's putting together something at Strip Club, no idea when.
Manny's is waving the corkage.
Ngon was fantastic.
Haven't been to Jay's (or anywhere else) in a long time.
If there any interest, I'll put something together.
Cheers,
Jim
Oh, and don't be these guys.
Bay Area diners' behavior grabs attention
Stacy Finz, Chronicle Staff Writer
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Diners have been known to gripe and moan about restaurant service. In fact, many surveys show it as the No. 1 complaint about eating out.
"He didn't refill my water glass fast enough." "She got my order wrong." "What does it take to get a little attention in this place?" The list goes on.
Well, here's a little newsflash, diner: You're no peach, either.
It's not because of paltry tips or lousy attitudes, restaurateurs say. Those they can handle.
It's the recent spate of weird antics - pole dancing in a crowded dining room, sex in the bathroom and raucous feuding - that has restaurant workers scratching their heads.
"It's not everyone," says Frank Klein, owner of San Francisco's Fish and Farm and a national restaurant consultant. "But over the past couple of years there seems to be this sense of entitlement. There are people who are so rude. And it's not just me. I've talked to consultants across the country who have noticed that diners have become more disrespectful and aggressive. It's a shame, because it puts a damper on other diners' good times."
Some chalk it up to a generation raised on Facebook, Twitter and reality television, where narcissism and bad behavior is not only accepted, it's encouraged.
Katheryn Twiss, a food archaeologist and an assistant professor at Stony Brook University in New York, says etiquette gets redefined with the times. "Ancient Romans were OK with belching and vomiting at the table," she says. Now no one thinks twice about cell phone calls, texting or holding a table for hours, while others wait.
And society seems to have put a premium on being the center of attention.
"Infamy and celebrity is sort of currency today," Twiss says.
Perhaps that's what emboldens some people to make a scene in the middle of a fancy restaurant.
Klein remembers the grandaddy of all outbursts at Fish and Farm a few months ago. A patron broke the owner's $2,700 plate-glass window with a bottle of wine she was brandishing while yelling at the top of her lungs at her significant other.
"I think she was calling him an a- at the same exact time the bottle slipped through her fingers," Klein remembers.
She paid the bill, wrote a check for the window and left. The rest of the diners got one heck of a show.
"We're paying a lot less attention to how we eat in the sense of manners than what we eat," Twiss says. "In some corners it's more acceptable to be drunk and horny in public than to be overweight and eating Mallomars."
Yes, there is the sex.
Charlie Hallowell of Pizzaiolo in Oakland says at least once a year his bathroom sink gets ripped out of the wall by folks who couldn't make it home or to a hotel.
The Oakland restaurateur says he loves his customers, but he's seen some doozies. There was the woman who brought her own Coke - that's Coca Cola - to the restaurant. (We'll get to the other kind of coke later.)
"She offered to pay a corkage fee, but I told her she couldn't do it again," says Hallowell, adding that he doesn't serve cola because he abhors anything with high fructose corn syrup. So BYOC - bringing your own Coke - is forbidden. But the Coke lady didn't get the hint and tried to smuggle in bottles on other visits. Hallowell booted her from the restaurant.
Possibly Hallowell's most memorable moment was when "some guy came in with a (woman) who proceeded to get very drunk and started pole dancing in the middle of the dining room."
Word has it, the pillar near the restaurant's bar is quite accommodating for this sort of activity.
Nick Peyton, now co-owner of Cyrus in Healdsburg, remembers a woman who wore a wrap dress to the Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton and, little by little, became unwrapped as she nuzzled with her boyfriend in the middle of the restaurant.
"She was wearing very few undergarments," Peyton says.
At Cyrus, his patrons manage to keep their clothes on. Some even come a little overdressed.
"We have three people who have been here at least four times," he says. "They come in down parkas, like for zero-degree weather, woolen caps and gloves. Then they complain that it's still too cold."
In Los Angeles they don't wear coats, just their latest plastic surgery. Sommelier Paul Einbund recalls working at a restaurant there, where one diner's lips had been so pumped full of collagen she couldn't eat her soup.
"She would hold the spoon to her mouth and it would just dribble down her chin," he says. "Finally, she just started lapping it up with her tongue like a little puppy."
Einbund says the L.A. restaurant scene used to be legendary for more than just its food. Supposedly a lot of meals started with an amuse bouche - a line or two of cocaine in the bathroom.
Einbund says L.A. is over its little obsession with the powder. Still, he recalls not too long ago at San Francisco's Coi, where he worked, a guy coming in with two beautiful women - one on each arm. They sat in the lounge smooching, sporadically going to the bathroom two at a time. Einbund suspects they needed privacy for some illicit activity.
Restaurant workers in general can only grumble; it's not like they can prove that a crime has been committed. But, not everyone in the business is complacent about it.
As one San Francisco line cook so poetically tweeted on Twitter: "Dear douche bags, please stop doing coke in the Nopa bathroom. Thank you."
Coming Sunday in Food & Wine: Cooking with spring's young vegetables.
E-mail Stacy Finz at sfinz(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/09/DDFT16SDJ3.DTL
This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-wine8-2009apr08,0,6038659,full.s…
>From the Los Angeles Times
Great wines for $15 and under
By Patrick Comiskey
April 8, 2009
Because every day feels more uncertain, we need our everyday wines -- something tasty, straightforward, and cheap in the glass -- to signify the day's end. For this, it's useful to maintain what I call a "working case" for your home, a boilerplate selection of wines to have on hand for everyday sustenance.
There are simply hundreds of wines out there that over-deliver for the price. They may be products of a great vintage, or may represent an undervalued category, an unsung region, an unheralded variety, or may be closeouts or downturn deals, but they're out there, and you should stock them.
My idea is to define a dozen slots for can't-miss values, with a few options for each slot: six red, six white, all of them under $15, all of them reliable -- not overreaching, just satisfying and honest.
Let's start with the whites. It's springtime, so these selections are heavily weighted toward light, fresh, herbaceous wines, mostly devoid of oak and ready to complement a light spring meal.
GRÜER BY THE LITER
Austria's signature white, Grüeltliner, is the ideal springtime wine to keep in your working case, with herbal white pepper scents and bracing acidity. Even though top bottlings of Grüan cost up to $60, there is a smart selection of everyday wines in the vicinity of $10, usually for a liter -- a third more than a regular bottle. Look for the big bottles from Loimer, Huber, Ebner and my go-to liter, Pollerhof.
NORTHWEST WHITES
While the prices continue to rise on Oregon Pinot Noir and Washington state Bordeaux-style blends, the whites from these respective regions are still priced well. In Oregon that means Pinot Gris, and the state's largest producer, King Estate, is still one of its best; its Signature bottling can be had for about $14. Or pick the frisky Gris-based blend by Sokol Blosser, "Evolution No. 9," so named for the nine cool-climate varieties you'll find there (about $13).
In Washington the word is Riesling, and you can find juicy, well-balanced, food-friendly Rieslings from the likes of Chateau Ste. Michelle, Snoqualmie and Pacific Rim (all less than $10); for a couple of extra bucks kick yourself in the pants with "Kung Fu Girl," which winemaker Charles Smith tailors for Asian dishes.
THE INDIGENOUS ITALIANS
In a little more than a decade, Italy's indigenous whites have been transformed -- once thin and plonky, they're now fresh, vibrant and full of character. Some of the best-tasting values come from the middle reaches in Umbria and the Marches, like the Trebbiano d'Abruzzo from Farnese (about $10), or the marvelous 2007 Verdicchio di Matelica from ColleStefano -- it's won a slew of awards in the Italian wine press, and is still about $14.
THE LITTLE WINES OF FRANCE AND SPAIN
The country wines of France and Spain are my bread and butter whites. I always have a Muscadet on hand for a brisk aperitif or a meal with seafood -- the Domaine de la Péè Clos des Briords (about $14), made from 80-year-old vines, is especially vibrant. Vins du Pays from the south are also a value, like the finely wrought Viognier that I found from the Languedoc (Guilhem Durand, about $11).
Many of Spain's fresh Ruedas and Albariñremain well-priced and delightful with spring fare. From the Rueda one of the most reliable is crisp and lemony Naia Blanco, made from 100% Verdejo (about $12). As for Albariñ the ever-reliable Burgans and Martin Codax, from Galicia, still come in under $14.
SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE WHITES, PART 1
It's my opinion that in the New World, and certainly in the Southern Hemisphere, no one is producing better Riesling than Australia. And for those of you fearful of residual sweetness in your Rieslings, get ready to pucker up: none are as dry, bracing and steely as Aussie versions. Many of these fall just above the $15 range (but few are more than $20) but one of my favorites comes in under $15 -- the lime-scented Pewsey Vale.
Meanwhile New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has crept up in price over the last few years, so that the choices south of $15 are limited. But two reliable ones are Brancott and Nobilo (both about $12).
SOUTHERN HEMISPHERE WHITES, PART 2
Chile and Argentina are known for their red wines (on this, more to follow) but each produces vibrant whites as well, from grape varieties they've adopted as their own. In Argentina, that's Torrontes, a crisp Iberian variety that smells of citrus blossom and tastes faintly tropical -- the best comes from Dominio del Plata, under the brand Crios (about $13).
Chile meanwhile has thoroughly embraced Sauvignon Blanc as its own, made in a style that suggests New Zealand but is generally a little fruitier and nearly always cheaper. There are several worthy candidates, but perhaps the best for the buck is Veramonte, from Casablanca Valley (about $10).
THE REDS
The rule book on reds for the working case is all about immediacy -- juicy, fresh, vibrant wines with honest fruit and balanced flavors -- simple wines largely oak-free and "unspoofulated."
LITTLE ITALY
2007 was a fantastic vintage for much of Italy, none better than in the Piedmont, whose little wines, Barbera and Dolcetto, are simply spectacular. Seek out several from the vintage, but one of my favorites is the Briccotondo Barbera from Fontanafredda -- an absolute steal at $12.
THE RHÔE
Cô du Rhôreds have been values for years, but the 2006 and 2007 vintages were simply superb in the southern Rhô Blends of Grenache, Mourvèe, Syrah and Carignan are fruit-forward, frisky, a little funky, and incredible values.
One of the most reliable names in the southern Rhô the Perrin family, has put out a 2007 Rérve Cô du Rhôthat will knock your socks off for $8. For a few dollars more consider the luscious, herbaceous Cô du Rhôcalled La Gerbaude, from Domaine Alary (about $14).
GRENACHE AND GARNACHA
Sounds contradictory, but one of the world's most ubiquitous red varieties is also one of its most unappreciated: It's Grenache, and a well-made one is as satisfying as any red wine on Earth. Many Rhôreds are Grenache-heavy, but I also found two terrific Spanish Garnachas worth seeking out -- a Grenache-dominant wine from Montsant producer Celler de Capçes called "Mas Donis" (about $11), and the other from older vines west of Barcelona in Aragon, from a winery called Monte la Sarda (about $13).
Meanwhile, there's a lot of buzz over the Grenache from Barossa called "Bitch" from R Wines. I'm not exactly clear on the message, and I'm not sure I'd want to serve it in mixed company without decanting it -- but you can't beat Grenache from 25-year-old vines in Australia's most fabled reds region for $10.
SOUTH AMERICAN REDS
Argentina and Chile still offer great value from their respective adopted varieties. For Argentina, that's Malbec, and it's routinely delicious -- mildly spicy, mildly floral aromatics, silky blue fruit flavors, firm tannins and as juicy as raspberries plucked off the bush. There are several to choose from, but I'm liking the Terrazas de los Andes, from the Lujáde Cuyo (about $10), for its juicy blackberry fruit with a hint of spice.
Chilean Carmenere, too, is on the right track. After a couple of initial vintages where the wines seemed green and shrill, I'm happy to report that the country is now producing succulent, mouth-filling Carmeneres with deep purple fruit and good power, such as the fully organic Emiliana Carmenere from the Colchagua Valley (about $10).
UNDERPRIVILEGED AMERICAN BLENDS
There are lots of cheap California appellation Merlots, Cabs and Pinots out there right now. Have at them -- with the wine glut, many are made with better fruit than in previous vintages. But for inexpensive, high-quality reds, my money has always been on blends, Rhôstyle and otherwise. The best of them showcase what a winemaker can craft from myriad elements.
Etude, the reputable Pinot winery in Carneros, has started a new brand called Fortitude that includes two red wines from older vineyards, many of which were planted decades ago with heritage varieties like Counoise, Carignane, Petite Sirah and Valdigue. One is called "Frediani Field Blend" and the other "Shake Ridge." Not only are they inexpensive (as little as $14) and delicious, I also like them because they're a nod to California's winegrowing past. Or you can choose from more traditional Rhôblends such as Qupe's "Los Olivos Cuvé" Andrew Murray's "Tous les Jours," and Steve Beckmen's "Cuvéle Bec," all of which hover around $15.
THE CLOSEOUTS
As I perused wine shops I paid close attention to the end-caps -- the case stacks that often form the end of wine rows -- and I saw plenty of good wines at unheard-of prices. So I'd recommend keeping a slot open for closeout deals. I scored a California Syrah from Mendocino County for $12 (Copain "l'Hiver"), that was easily worth twice that. I saw a reputable Monterey Chardonnay (Kali Hart) selling for a song, and a Stags Leap Claret for less than $20 (Steltzner). For the next six months or so, that piece of real estate is going to be crowded with values; this slot will be in high rotation in your working case.
food(a)latimes.com
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Wine drinkers jump on the blendwagon
Tim Teichgraeber, Special to The Chronicle
Sunday, April 5, 2009
Chris Bilbro, owner and winemaker of Marietta winery in G... Chris Bilbro (left), owner and winemaker of Marietta wine... Chris Bilbro (middle), owner and winemaker of Marietta wi...
If a wine's first duty is to be red, its second is surely to taste good. For many, any bottle that satisfies those two prime directives is good enough, and no long-winded discussion of terroir justifies spending an additional $20.
More and more, those looking for a hearty, straightforward red are looking to the "everything but the kitchen sink" red blend category - labels like Red Truck, Marietta Old Vine Red and Big House Red to name but a few. These are lightly oaked, unpretentious reds assembled from a handful of grape varieties, usually tagged with a nonconformist label that helps them stand out on shelves.
There's nothing terribly new about these. Marietta Cellars owner Chris Bilbro recalls running into Gina Gallo at a party where his Old Vine Red was being poured. "She said, 'Hey, my grandfather used to make that wine. He called it Hearty Burgundy!' "
Ridge Vineyards CEO Paul Draper points out the field blend vineyards where Zinfandel was long interplanted with other varieties like Petite Sirah, Carignane and Alicante Bouschet - grapes that add some color or structure to Zinfandel's rich fruit. Such blends were standard practice more than a century ago. "These 19th century growers really knew what they were doing," he says.
Today's winemakers, with more grape varieties to work with than ever, are taking the same creative approach: blending various grapes to concoct affordable wines that taste great.
"These days the skill of the vintners ... has improved so much that they can accomplish a lot when they have a number of varieties to work with," says Wilfred Wong, cellar master for Beverages & More. That's why blends can offer better value than varietal wines. "If I'm drinking (unblended) California Pinot Noir, I'm going to be paying for it," says Wong. "Someone who used to buy a $40 Cabernet and can't afford it now, they'll buy a $20 Zinfandel blend instead - there's more character in those blends."
Nationwide, sales of red blends are up approximately 110 percent over the past four years, according to Information Resources, which tracks U.S. wine sales. The figures show especially explosive growth under $20. Wong says that Baby Boomers are still relatively hung up on varietal wines, but younger consumers are drinking more red wine than ever and are drawn to these red blends.
Jason Kugel, manager of Merchant's Fine Wine in Dearborn, Mich., sees the same trends. "Our base customer isn't a traditionalist based on Bordeaux or Burgundy. They're pretty new to the game and willing to try anything, and they're looking for value."
Dale Stratton, vice president of strategic insights for Constellation Wines U.S., says the blends hold a fresh new appeal for younger consumers who have less wine-drinking baggage. Stratton notes that younger wine drinkers were raised on Starbucks coffee and have acclimated faster to red wine tannins. Still, as Stratton puts it, "The difference between Opus One and Red Truck is vast." Red Truck was conceived at Cline Cellars in 2002 and perfectly timed the rise of inexpensive blends. The winery did and still does make a red blend called Oakley, but took a slightly different approach with Red Truck. "We created Red Truck before we even knew what we were going to call it," says Charlie Tsegeletos, Cline's winemaker. "It seemed like there was real interest in blended wines with proprietary names and wines where the winemaker was allowed some flexibility." They added an Americana-style red pickup label and a major brand was born.
Quirky packaging has definitely been part of the draw. "I think the packaging is even more important on red blends - packaging that really stands out and is more irreverent," says Alex Ootkin Evans of Precept Brands, a Seattle company that markets a couple of very successful labels: House Wine and Waterbrook's Ménge.
Sometimes a lower-priced blend can be a good way to introduce younger consumers to a higher-end winery. Fess Parker Winery introduced its successful Frontier Red wine in 2000 because the company didn't really have wines selling for under $20 and feared it was pricing out younger consumers, according to president Tim Snider. "We wanted to give people an entry-level glimpse of the quality we can produce. It's hard to sell only $35 to $40 wines." Today the winery sells about 18,000 cases of Frontier Red a year, with growth of 35 to 50 percent over the last three years.
Michael Michaud found something similar. He makes varietal wines from Pinot Noir, Syrah and Sangiovese off his estate in the Chalone appellation east of Soledad, but always has some barrels left over. In 2006, he decided to produce a more affordable blend instead of selling it cheaply on the bulk market. He calls the blend "3" and sells it for $22 a bottle, compared to $35 to $40 for his single-varietals. "We needed something for the bistros that can be poured by the glass," Michaud says.
But Georgetta Dane, winemaker for Big House Red, a popular blend created by Bonny Doon's Randall Graham, bristles at the suggestion that her $12 red wine is made from leftovers. She uses up to 32 grape varieties, many sourced specifically to make Big House Red, all of which are vinified separately then blended.
Dana says she constructs it the way a perfumer constructs a perfume during a two-week blending process. "I create a base of fuller wines that make the skeleton: Petite Sirah, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Middle notes are Italian varieties, mostly because they're fruity, but have tough tannins. For top notes, I pick something perfumey, like Grenache (for strawberry or rose petal notes) or white wine like Malvasia."
More expensive unorthodox blends have also been gaining steam. Duckhorn started making Paraduxx, a $45 blend of Zinfandel with Bordeaux varieties, in 1994; it was such a hit that the brand was spun off into its own Napa winery in 2001. Jeff Cohn of JC Cellars, who specializes in single-vineyard Syrah and Zinfandel, found the first 2005 vintage of his $32 Impostor so successful that both regular customers and his accountant have demanded another edition. L'Aventure and Four Vines, both of Paso Robles, and Flowers on the Sonoma Coast are but a few of the wineries trying more expensive freestyle red blends.
Though he spends much of his time on high-end Pinot, Greg La Follette's Peloton ($25), a wild mix of Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and six other red and white grapes, provides both relief from a single-grape focus and a useful source of income. Peloton now accounts for more than one-quarter of total annual production at his Tandem winery. "This is my therapy wine," he says.
Whatever the price, Americans seem to be getting over their fear of wines made from more than one grape, and are discovering that artfully blended wines can deliver great value.
A selection of red blends less than $25
2006 Cline Oakley Five Reds California Red ($11)
A terrific value made from a mix of Merlot, Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Mourvedre with great layers of bright cherry and raspberry fruit with mint highlights, deeper plum low notes with ample acidity and tannin.
2007 Folie a Deux Menage a Trois California Red ($12)
Zinfandel with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon come together in this red with enticingly fresh cherry raspberry and milk chocolate aromas. Rather elegant and medium-bodied, with ripe cherry and currant flavors and polished tannins.
NV Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red Lot No. 48 California Red ($12)
Deeply colored, with exotic cardamom, raspberry and boysenberry aromas with a subtle mint note. Loaded with sweet berry and spice flavors, it finishes soft and just a bit sweet. Zin predominates, with Carignane, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.
2006 Waterbrook Columbia Valley Melange Noir ($15)
A compellingly original wine with a dedicated following. It has strangely unfamiliar blueberry-bramble, red currant and coriander spice aromas, and turns dark and bold in the mouth with grilled meat, boysenberry and tar flavors.
2006 Michaud 3 Chalone Red ($22)
A blend of Pinot Noir, Syrah and Sangiovese with pretty cocoa powder, cherry, red currant and bacon aromas, tangy red fruit and pepper flavors. Medium weight and silky in the mouth with a twist of wiry Sangiovese tannin on the finish.
2006 The Magnificent Wine Co. House Wine Columbia Valley Red ($10)
A blend of three-quarters Cabernet Sauvignon plus Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It shows sweet and sour black cherry, plum and white pepper aromas with a subtle vegetal edge, and sturdy blackberry, graphite, cherry and mineral flavors that finish with plenty of mouth-coating tannin. Not a wimpy wine.
Tim Teichgraeber is a San Francisco writer. E-mail him at wine(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/04/05/FDVL16DH44.DTL
This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
March 31, 2009
Wine Market Struggles to Adjust in New Era
By DAVID JOLLY
What is a wine worth?
As elite critics and merchants from around the globe descend on the city of Bordeaux this week to sample the 2008 vintage of the world.s finest wines, that question will dog them.
The ultimate connoisseurs have gathered every spring since the early 1970s for the tastings, known as the .campagne primeur,. or futures campaign. But never have they done it in the middle of so deep a recession, after so frothy a market. For that reason, this week.s tastings are likely to be an unusually sober affair.
Just as the go-go years of Wall Street.s inflated salaries and Main Street.s cheap cash created a bubble in real estate, stocks and other assets, they produced a wine bubble too.
The en primeur, or wine futures, system works to the advantage of the wine-producing châaux, providing them with cash for part of their product while it is still in the barrel; investors and consumers get the chance to buy wine at prices that have the potential to rise substantially.
Prices for futures had long varied widely according to the quality of the vintage. But that seemed to change after an exceptional 2005 sent prices spiraling upward. The vintages of 2006 and 2007 were merely average, but prices did not fall, kept aloft by a surplus of nouveau riche big spenders.
Now many of the speculators who drove prices to extraordinary levels have disappeared, or turned from buyers to sellers as they try to raise cash to cover their overleveraged bets. And the bankers and traders who thought nothing of blowing hundreds of dollars on a bottle are now worrying about losing their bonuses, if not their jobs.
As a result, some overseas buyers have decided to skip the tastings this year, complaining that top châaux will not accept that in a market this weak, prices must fall. Some of the smaller merchants whose livelihoods depend on selling the wine, including some of the Bordeaux middlemen known as néciants, are said to be at risk of failing.
Stephen J. Browett, director of Farr Vintners, an up-market British wine merchant, said he would not even be sending a team to Bordeaux this week because he did not expect to be able to sell the new wine at a profit, unless the wineries are prepared to accept substantial price cuts.
.I wouldn.t call it a boycott, precisely,. he said, .but unless they give us an indication that they.re going to put the price down, there.s not much point in us sending our team down for a week..
Simon Staples, director of fine wine sales at Berry Bros. & Rudd in Hampshire, England, said the gap between the pricing expectations held by wine merchants and the châaux over what is expected to be a decent, though not great, vintage was the widest he had seen in two decades.
The top châaux are hoping to cut prices by 15 percent from the 2007 en primeur to show good faith, he added, .but cutting the price by 50 percent to 60 percent is the only way it.s going to work..
The problem has been particularly acute for British wine merchants because the pound has fallen precipitously against the euro, and British buyers can account for up to a third of the market. Mr. Staples said the pound had fallen about 15 percent against the euro in the last 12 months, so .even a 15 percent price cut will only get us back to last year.s level,. he said.
Prices for the best wines from around the world rose in tandem with the financial bubble, with both institutional fund managers and home-based Internet traders getting into the act. The London International Vintners Exchange.s Liv-ex 100 index, which tracks trading in 100 fine wines, mostly red Bordeaux, nearly tripled in dollar terms between February 2005 and August 2008. The index has lost about 43 percent of its value since then.
Mr. Staples pointed to the example of Châau-Lafite Rothschild, a first-growth Bordeaux, which soared from £675, or $955, for a 12-bottle case in the 2002 futures to £4,000 a case for 2005 . which he called .the best vintage I.ve ever tasted.. But despite merely average years subsequently, the price only fell back to £3,500 in 2006 and £2,800 in 2007. He estimated it cost the châau .10, or $13, to make a bottle of the wine.
Both Christie.s and Sotheby.s, the auction houses, say sales continue to be strong at their auctions, which typically feature excellent bottles in their primes.
And people have not cut back on their overall wine consumption, according to Lulie Halstead, chief executive of the research and consulting firm Wine Intelligence. .But what we are seeing is that people are trading down a bit in price,. she said, spending less at restaurants while occasionally splurging more for the wine they serve at home.
Data from Wine Australia, an industry marketing group, supports that analysis. Australian wine exports declined 5 percent in volume terms in the 12 months through the end of February, but the value of those exports fell 16 percent, suggesting cheaper wines are making up more of the mix.
Predictions based on the weather during last year.s growing season suggest that the 2008 Bordeaux will rank as average-to-pretty-good. The châaux are expected to release their prices for the new vintage by the end of June, based in large part on the buzz from this week.s reviews. Mr. Staples said that if the top châaux decided the market would not support their price, they have sufficient cash to simply keep the 2008 vintage off the market, holding it for as long as 10 years, if necessary, when it would be ready to sell to retailers and restaurants. He said he was optimistic, though, that negotiations would succeed.
There is concern, however, for the many smaller Bordeaux producers, who need the liquidity the futures sales bring. Wine merchants who depend on en primeur sales and the néciants . who act as middlemen between the châaux and the wider market . could be especially hard hit. The American wine critic, Robert Parker, noted as much in November, predicting on his blog that there would be .plenty of casualties..
In an e-mailed message last week, he sounded similarly bearish. .In terms of wine prices, even the luxury end are soft, but have not fallen as much as real estate, art, and stock,. Mr. Parker said. .However, buying of top wines has slowed considerably, and what unfolds over the next six months will push prices lower, I suspect..
David Sokolin, a fine wine dealer in Bridgehampton, New York, notes another potential pitfall. .If the producers cut prices sufficiently for the 2008 en primeur to move their product, they could undermine the prices of the 2007 vintage,. he said. That would hurt merchants and investors holding the back vintage, because their stocks of those wines would lose value. All of the first-growth, or highest ranked, producers . Châau Lafite Rothschild, Châau Margaux, Châau Latour, Châau Haut-Brion and Châau Mouton-Rothschild . declined interview requests, citing the press of business before the start of the tastings.
But Jean-Guillaume Prats, director of Châau Cos d.Estournel, a Bordeaux second growth, acknowledged that prices have come down over the past six months. .That.s true of every fine wine around the world,. he said, .and it.s also true for many luxury items..
Mr. Prats hinted that the producers would seek common ground with merchants. .Speculation isn.t in anyone.s mind at the moment, in any area,. he added. .It.s good that the market is going back to fundamentals..
Francis Cruse, director of the Union des Maisons de Bordeaux, the néciants. union, blamed the madness spurred by the excellent 2005 vintage.
.Prices need to return to the level where people who like to drink good wines can afford them,. he said.
But Angéque de Lencquesaing, one of the founders of iDealwine, an online auction site in Paris, said it was hard for producers to accept lower prices. .In England and other countries people have a view of wine as a financial product that can go up or down in value,. she said. .In France, wine is sacred..
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
FYI/FYE
April 2009
WINES OF THE TIMES
If It.s Spring, It Must Be Riesling
By ERIC ASIMOV
IF you.ve already heard me sing the song of German riesling in the springtime, you.ll have to forgive me. But it.s a song that bears repeating . at least annually . because it simply is a perfect seasonal melody in almost all of its manifestations.
What do I mean by that? Well, no wine is more versatile than German riesling. It doesn.t just excel as a sweet wine and a dry wine, it excels at many different degrees of sweetness and dryness. And at each stop on the spectrum from dry to sweet, you have a wine of a different character, with different qualities, filling different needs and offering different pleasures. That.s why I can write about German rieslings every spring and never feel as if I.m repeating myself (at least, not to my ears).
Why, last year I wrote about dry German rieslings. The truth is, even though many people assume all German rieslings are sweet, most of the rieslings that people drink in Germany are dry. The best of these are exceptionally delicious.
The year before, I wrote about auslese rieslings, highly misunderstood wines that have a lot of residual sugar but are so well balanced that they do wonderfully at the table. Before that it was kabinett rieslings, the delicate, almost fragile wines that have always epitomized spring with their almost hesitant bit of sweetness, peeking through like a new bud.
Our subject this year is späese, perhaps the most appealing expression of German riesling, except for the others I.ve mentioned. The term späese (pronounced SHPATE-lay-zuh) refers to the degree of ripeness at which the grapes are harvested. In the German system of ripeness classification, the grapes with the least amount of sugar are destined for kabinett wines. Then comes späese, and then the riper auslese, beerenauslese, trockenbeerenauslese and eiswein.
Yes indeed, they are a mouthful. What.s more, these terms, particularly späese, don.t always tell you how a wine will actually taste because they describe the grapes before fermentation. It.s up to the winemaker to decide whether to stop fermentation early on, leaving a considerable amount of residual sugar, or to ferment the wine longer, until it is completely dry. For that reason, German wine labels may offer an additional designation indicating that a späese is almost dry (späese halbtrocken) or that it is bone dry (späese trocken).
To make matters even more complicated, some producers of dry riesling opt out of these ripeness designations and use a completely different nomenclature for their wines. That.s the beauty of the German system: You keep banging your head against a wall of terminology, and just at the point it begins to really hurt you figure it all out.
The wine panel was feeling no pain recently when we tasted 25 späese rieslings from the 2007 vintage. We focused on späeses in their most familiar guise for Americans, that is, wines with a fair amount of residual sugar. For the tasting Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Fred Dexheimer, a wine consultant, and Laura Maniec, director of wine and spirits for B. R. Guest Restaurants.
While I said that these wines had a lot of residual sugar, they are not exactly sweet wines. Riesling has a naturally high acidity to it, which gives the wines a zesty liveliness that balances the sweetness, leaving the wine refreshing and invigorating.
The best of these wines are not merely balanced but thrillingly so, like a teeter-totter on the point of a skyscraper. Our No. 1 wine, the Bockenauer Felseneck from Schär-Fröch in Nahe, was supremely delicate, combining a feather lightness more typical of the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region with a wonderful richness of flavor.
The Mosel is probably the German region most familiar to Americans. Of the 25 bottles we tasted, 18 were from the Mosel, 4 from Nahe and one each from the Rheingau and Rheinhessen. Our No. 2 wine, the Üziger Wüten from Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, epitomized the finesse and nuance typical of the Mosel. It was our best value at $29.
By contrast, our No. 3 wine, the Bernkasteler Doctor from Wegeler, was the most expensive bottle by far at $90. It is a beautiful wine, but the painfully high price is for the famous Doctor vineyard.
Despite all of these wonderful things about German riesling, and despite the fact that Americans are drinking more riesling than ever before, many people remain confused about German rieslings. Nonetheless, one thing is invariably true with wines like these späeses.
.One thing you do know, which is really bankable, is you.re not going to get high alcohol and you.re not going to get oak,. Laura said. Indeed, none of these wines were above 9.5 percent alcohol, and most were 8 percent and under. Did somebody say lunch?
The wines on the whole were so good that, in addition to the producers on our list, I.d also recommend Selbach-Oster, St. Urbans-Hof, A. J. Adam and Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt.
Germany has been enjoying some good vintages in recent years, and 2007 seems to have been extremely kind to späeses. Most of the wines we liked best are deliciously vivacious right now, with one proviso that I.ll get to in a moment. But very soon, if these wines behave as German rieslings typically do, they will enter a kind of neutral, silent period only to emerge in five to seven years as beautifully refined wines. Yes, it.s a pain to wait, but the rewards can be tremendous.
That proviso? Well, some German producers use a lot of sulfur dioxide as a preservative, which can make a young wine unpleasant. One of my favorite Mosel producers, Joh. Jos. Prü notorious for this. Indeed, we had two Prütleses in our blind tasting. In my notes, I called both of these sulfur bombs. But in my experience with Prü years from now these wines will both be gorgeous.
Tasting Report: Following the Umlauts
Schär-Fröch Nahe Bockenauer Felseneck Späese 2007 $40 *** 1/2
Lacy, delicate and almost fragile, with beautiful aromas and flavors of flowers, ginger and minerals. (Importer: Rudi Wiest/Cellars International, San Marcos, Calif.)
BEST VALUE
Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Üziger Wüten Späese 2007 $29 *** 1/2
Complex and nuanced with juicy peach, apricot and mineral flavors. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)
Wegeler Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Bernkasteler Doctor Späese 2007 $90 ***
Delicate with lovely, lingering flavors of lime, spices and apricots. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International)
Dr. Loosen Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Üziger Wüten Späese 2007 $31 ***
Well-balanced aromas and flavors of ripe fruit, citrus and slate. (Lauber Imports, Somerville, N.J.)
Schloss Lieser Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Späese 2007 $40 ***
Lacy Mosel fragility with citrus and mineral flavors. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International)
Hexamer Nahe Meddersheimer Rheingrafenberg Späese 2007 $33 ***
More intense than delicate with peach, apricot and mineral flavors. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
Fritz Haag Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Späese 2007 $38 ***
Knife-edge balance of sweet and zesty with flavors of peaches, apricots and minerals. (Rudi Wiest/Cellars International)
Josef Leitz Rheingau Rüimer Berg Roseneck Späese 2007 $40 ***
Gorgeous yet balanced flavors of voluptuous ripe fruit, spices, minerals and flowers. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
Willi Schaefer Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Graacher Domprobst Späese 2007 $35 ** 1/2
Poised and balanced with spicy peach and mineral flavors. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
Döoff Nahe Niederhäer Hermannshö Späese 2007 $68 ** 1/2 Rip
e and fleshy with persistent flavors of pears, herbs and minerals. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
WHAT THE STARS MEAN:
Ratings, from zero to four stars, reflect the panel.s reaction to the wines, which were tasted with names and vintages concealed. The wines represent a selection generally available in good retail shops and restaurants and on the Internet. Prices are those paid in shops in the New York region.
Tasting coordinator: Bernard Kirsch
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
A wee bit off topic, so sue me.
Op-Ed Contributor
Cynicism We Can Believe In
By SIMON CRITCHLEY
SOME 2,300 years after his death, Diogenes the Cynic dramatically interrupted a recent New York State Senate committee meeting. Wearing a long, white beard and carrying his trademark lamp in broad daylight, the ancient philosopher . who once described himself as .a Socrates gone mad. . claimed to be looking for an honest man in politics. Considering the never-ending allegations of financial corruption that flow from the sump of Albany, it.s no surprise that he was unsuccessful.
This resurrected Diogenes was, in fact, Randy Credico, a comedian who says he is considering challenging Senator Charles Schumer in the 2010 Democratic primary. Whatever boost Mr. Credico.s prank provides his campaign, it might also cause us to reflect a little on the meaning of cynicism . and how greatly we still need Diogenes.
Cynicism is actually not at all cynical in the modern sense of the word. It bears no real resemblance to that attitude of negativity and jaded scornfulness that sees the worst of intentions behind the apparent good motives of others.
True cynicism is not a debasement of others but a debasement of oneself . and in that purposeful self-debasement, a protest against corruption, luxury and insincerity. Diogenes, the story goes, was called a .downright dog,. and this so pleased him that the figure of a dog was carved in stone to mark his final resting place. From that epithet, kunikos (.dog-like.), cynicism was born.
Diogenes credited his teacher Antisthenes with introducing him to a life of poverty and happiness . of poverty as happiness. The cynic.s every word and action was dedicated to the belief that the path to individual freedom required absolute honesty and complete material austerity.
So Diogenes threw away his cup when he saw people drinking from their hands. He lived in a barrel, rolling in it over hot sand in the summer. He inured himself to cold by embracing statues blanketed with snow. He ate raw squid to avoid the trouble of cooking. He mocked the auctioneer while being sold into slavery.
When asked by Lysias the pharmacist if he believed in the gods, he replied, .How can I help believing in them when I see a god-forsaken wretch like you?. When he was asked what was the right time to marry, he said, .For a young man not yet, for an old man never at all.. When asked what was the most beautiful thing in the world, Diogenes replied, .Freedom of speech.. Sadly, it remains one of the most dangerous.
And when asked where he came from, this native of Sinope, in what is now Turkey, replied that he was a .citizen of the world,. or kosmopolites. If only today.s self-styled cosmopolitans drank water from their hands, hugged statues and lived in barrels, one might ponder. Truth be told, Diogenes. .cosmopolitanism. is much more of an anti-political stance than the sort of banal internationalism that people associate with the word today.
Cynicism is basically a moral protest against hypocrisy and cant in politics and excess and thoughtless self-indulgence in the conduct of life. In a world like ours, which is slowly trying to rouse itself from the dogmatic slumbers of boundless self-interest, corruption, lazy cronyism and greed, it is Diogenes. lamp that we need to light our path. Perhaps this recession will make cynics of us all.
Simon Critchley, the chairman of the philosophy department at the New School, is the author of .The Book of Dead Philosophers..
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
>From Indiana-?
To view an online version of this email, click here.
The Wine Guy
Recipe Exchange
& Wine Review Society
April 1, 2009
?
Gallo Purchases First Growth Chateau Latour!
The entire wine world was shocked yesterday when it was announced that E. & J. Gallo Wineries had completed the purchase of the renowned? first growth Bordeaux estate, Chateau Latour.? Since December of 2008, it has been an open secret that the investment bank Lazard was offering the Latour estate for sale on behalf of Francois Pinault's Groupe Artemis.? The likely buyer was thought to be French wine, Mogul Bernard Magrez, but Gallo swooped in with an astonishing one billion dollar offer.? The deal utilizes financing provided by former Merrill Lynch CEO, John Thain, who seems to have included a provision?in the agreement that will allow him to move to France and live in seclusion on the estate.? It was also rumored that Gallo has contracted with Blackwater Security to protect Mr. Thain and the Latour property from any potential public backlash that might accompany news of the deal.? Eight black American SUV's, now parked at the property, seem to confirm that rumor.
This purchase should present a real challenge to the Gallo marketing department.? Usually forced to create a fresh history for acquired properties (witness their MacMurray Ranch and Marcelina brands), it will be interesting to see how they deal with a property that already has one.? It is obvious though, that the famous Gallo marketing teams have been hard at work, since the announcement was accompanied by the unveiling of two new Latour labels.? Latour Chardonnay and Merlot will be sourced from the same Gallo-owned properties in Southern France that produce Red Bicyclette and will carry the standard "Since 1670" label.? The wines should be available on grocery store shelves here in the US by May of this year. ? Asked if he thought that these ten dollar wines might dilute the credibility of the original Latour wines that retailed for well over $1,000.00 a bottle in the 2005 vintage, a Gallo spokesman replied "We have never met a problem our marketing department couldn't solve by creating a great story.? Besides, Latour produces 11,000 cases a year and the new division will produce 11 million.? Does it matter?"
Recipe Exchange
Last week, Linda found her copy of the Bethlehem Baptist Church Cookbook, given to her by her grandmother in 1976.? They were all recipes that bring back memories, but we decided that this Golden Beef Casserole best expressed the era.
Golden Beef Casserole
Bethlehem Baptist Church Cookbook
Ingredients?
1?lb. lean ground beef
1/4 cup onion -diced
1/4 cup green bell pepper - diced
3/4 tsp salt
1/8 tsp pepper
1 can cream of mushroom soup
1 can green lima beans 12 oz
1 can whole kernel corn 12 oz?
1 cup cheddar cheese - shredded
?
Brown beef, onion and green pepper in a small amount of shortening.? Add remaining ingredients.? Spoon into a casserole dish. Bake for 40 minutes in a 350 degree oven.??
?
Wine Guy Reviews
More and more high-end Napa wineries are beginning to offer lower priced alternatives to their cult classics..? first there was Screaming Eagle and now we have the infinitely more affordable Screaming Sparrow!
?
Screaming Sparrow Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 Napa Valley, California?$25
We Bought a Bunch $19.99
What the Wine Critics Thought:?Wine Spectator?91 Points
Why chase?a cult wine that could cost up to a thousand dollars a bottle when you can enjoy its first cousin, Screaming Sparrow, for less than twenty bucks!??Screaming Eagle owners have licensed negociant Don Sebastiani?to?locate surplus Napa fruit to produce this second label to the mighty Screaming Eagle.??Call it quality by association, but I love this wine just knowing that it shares the same warehouse as Screaming Eagle.?J.L.?????
What We Thought:?Tasting this wine blind, we found it lean, stemmy and?almost undrinkable.? However, once we discovered that it was the second label for Screaming Eagle,we re-tasted and?found that?the ensuing few minutes had?rendered it rich, ripe, full-bodied and filled with classic Napa Cabernet character.
Using a technique licensed from Indiana's own Chateau Thomas winery, Silver Oak is now offering this "sugar free" sweet version of its Alexander Valley Cabernet using the no calorie sweetener Zerose.? Even adopting the?same slogan as Chateau Thomas Slender brand, "No sugar,?no carbs, no fats, no aftertaste, NO KIDDING!" it's obvious that they are after a whole new customer.??
Silver Oak Light Cabernet Sauvignon 2003?Alexander Valley, California?$65
What the Wine Critics Thought:?Wine?Advocate?91 Points
Wow!??Here is a Silver Oak?Cabernet that even my Aunt Martha can enjoy.? Aromas of blackberry jam greet your nose while the first sip offers up?a rich, ripe,?full-bodied palate with gobs of oozingly sweet blackberry fruit that completely mask the sticky but?firm tannins.? This has a long life ahead of it the cellar provided you can keep Aunt Martha away from it.?
What We Thought:?What a concept...a truly fine Napa Cabernet that?you won't have to develop a taste for. Now, people will be able to go Napa Cabernet straight from White Zinfandel.? This is real fruit bomb, I wasn't sure whether to drink it or spread over cream cheese on a bagel.? Maybe we'll do both!
?
New Arrival
On our trip to Florida last month, Linda and I discovered Sanibel Tropical Wines.?They have a tasting room on Sanibel Island to showcase their award winning citrus and berry wines.? And, there is a Indiana connection...they have received no less than 85 medals and awards from the Indiana State Fair Wine Competitions.? You have to try these?wines to believe them...
Florida Banana Wine, Central Florida? $20??
Gold Medal Indiana State Fair 2008
Made 100% from bananas, this is THE wine for banana lovers! Absolutely tremendous with scallops, Tilapia and pork loin.?
Hot Sun Spicy Tomato Wine, Central Florida? $19?
Silver Medal 2003 Indiana State Fair
?A very smooth dry white wine with a slight tomato taste and a hint of peppers. Feel the warmth...a delightful surprise. Serve with crackers & cheese, nachos, enchiladas, oysters, salads and bread. Use in cooking for a gourmet touch.
Cocoa Beach Semi-Sweet Orange & Chocolate Wine,?Central Florida? $19
Bronze Medal Winner Indiana State Fair
For the "chocoholic" in all of us. A blend of semi-sweet orange wine and rich chocolate. The result? An explosion of chocolate flavor in one of our most popular wines. Perfect after dinner cordial.
The Wine Guy
Pick of the Week
A New Vintage
Opus Two
Affordable?Napa Cabernet
Wine Spectator 93 Points $14.99!?
?
April?1st?marks the second release of?the exciting new?Opus Two!? Mondavi has done it again... partnering with Charles Shaw to produce an affordable alternative to their flagship? wine, Opus One, the joint?venture with Rothschild.? Charles Shaw Wineries, well known for their?affordable wines,?marketed?exclusively by Trader Joe's, is supplying the juice for this exciting new wine to be made at the Opus facility in Napa Valley.??
Outfitting retired Exxon super tankers with rubber bladders, ?the Charles Shaw growers have supplied fruit grown in the Zhejiang province of China.??And, Opus?One's?skilled winemakers have used it to create what James Laube of Wine Spectator calls "the most exciting thing to happen?in Napa Valley in years."? Scoring the first vintage 93 points, he went on to say "It's about time someone did something about the high price of Cabernet in California."? Priced at only $14.99 for a 3 liter box, it may be the wave of the future.? Try some and see for yourself...
Opus Two Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Napa Valley / Zhejiang China $17 3 Liter Box
We Bought a Bunch $14.99
What the Wine Critics Thought:?Wine?Spectator 93 points
It's simply amazing what Opus has done with the new Cabernet flavor additives developed by? Arthur Daniels Midland.? ?I always?knew?that if they could make fast food hamburgers taste like they were grilled and French fries taste like they were fried in lard, they could make Concord grapes taste like fine Cabernet.???The wine is rich and intense, with a concentrated mix of?currant and?blackberry fruit that have only the lightest?artificial or chemical?overtones.??The dusty herb and cedary?flavors provided by the oak dust additives seem indistinguishable from new French oak.?This is a?good choice for short or very near term cellaring. Best from March 2009 through January 2009. J.L.
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Wine Guy Recipe Exchange & Wine Review Society Newsletter Issue #485
Vol.?10 #13
?
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April 1, 2009
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FYI on Cab Franc from SFGC
The other Cabernet
Jon BonnéChronicle Wine Editor
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Winemaker Aaron Pott grows Cabernet Franc for Napa Valley... He also uses the grape in wines for Blackbird and Quintessa. Crocker Starr winemaker Pam Starr makes a smoky Cabernet ... Cab Franc vineyard at Seven Stones winery, a tiny boutiqu... More...
If Cabernet Franc has a pied piper, it might be Aaron Pott. Over the years, the Napa Valley winemaker has quietly taken this misunderstood grape with him from project to project. When Ron and Anita Wornick planted just under 2 acres on their tiny, priceless jewel of a vineyard in the St. Helena hills above Meadowood, Pott persuaded them to include about 15 percent Franc. He has the spiel down.
"I kind of say it like this: 'Which would you rather taste - a 1961 Chateau Mouton (Rothschild) or a 1961 Cheval Blanc?' " Pott says. "The best expressions of Cabernet Franc are much more interesting than the best expressions of Cabernet Sauvignon."
That is often the minority view. Says John Skupny of Lang & Reed, probably California's sole Franc-focused winery: "It is definitely the Rodney Dangerfield of the varietals." This despite hundreds of years of loyal service in Bordeaux and the Loire Valley.
Blame the flavors. While Franc offers plenty of fruit - usually lighter and leaning more toward raspberry and blueberry than Cabernet's dark notes - notoriety lies with its herbaceous, floral, sometimes peppery side.
When ripe, those notes provide aromatic allure: dried herb, tobacco, graphite and paprika, not just in red wines but also in fine rosé
But they also can be Franc's weakness - green, underripe, vegetal flavors. These traits provide fodder for critics who cast Franc as a green-lipped wannabe.
Yet winemakers along the West Coast are finally finding a place in their hearts for Cab Franc, either on its own or as a portion of their blends, even in California, where it has remained a perennial problem child. It earns its keep, if nothing else. Statewide, it averages $1,421 per ton, more than $300 more than Cabernet Sauvignon, according to 2008 data.
The frequent loathing of Franc has given its partisans - me among them - all the more reason to seek one another out. No secret handshakes, but when a fellow traveler drops the name of, say, Charles Joguet of Chinon, we take it as a badge of refinement.
"The profile of a Cab Franc drinker? They usually have a great cellar," says Pam Starr, who makes a smoky, ripe Franc under her Crocker & Starr label. (She's a Joguet fan.) "They get it that life is full of diversity. They can't have the plain box of Crayola crayons. They have to have the mega-box of colors."
Grape gets its star moment
Converts typically come to the Franc side once they understand its historic dual role as both leading man and ensemble member. In the Loire, it is largely responsible for reds from Chinon, Bourgueil and Saumur-Champigny that can immediately refresh but age for decades. Farther south, it serves as part of the blend in many of Bordeaux's most famous wines, notably Chateau Cheval Blanc, which traditionally is about half Cab Franc.
This latter role has swayed many winemakers. Pott learned his lesson as winemaker at Chateau La Tour Figeac in St. Emilion, where he was captivated by a small plot of 60-year-old Cab Franc vines growing across the street from Cheval Blanc. "That's what slammed it home for me," he says.
Now he uses it with most clients, including Blackbird and Quintessa, and makes his own, Pantagruel (an homage to Rabelais, whose beloved Loire reds were presumably Franc). He's planting 2 acres around his house on Mount Veeder.
The irony is that this supporting role has never elevated Franc's fortunes. La Tour Figeac, Cheval Blanc and other top St. Emilion chateaux get an aromatic signature from it. Yet the grape's abilities are typically disregarded, never more so than - sorry to bring this up - in the movie "Sideways," which did a hatchet job on both Merlot and Cab Franc. (Merlot is recovering nicely, at least.)
Cabernet Franc's other big claim is as Cabernet Sauvignon's genetic parent. As Cabernet Sauvignon's star has risen, the elder Cabernet has acquiesced to live in the shadow of its child's fame.
Winemakers can't seem to agree on how to treat it. The dominant view for a long time - thanks in part to the success of ripe, overfruited Cabernet - was that Franc was too much of a wimp to succeed in California. Reality shows otherwise. Look no further than Dalla Valle's Maya, a blend of the two Cabernets that has ranked among Napa's highest-scoring wines.
Franc certainly can be persnickety in its flavors. But it has also been a victim of circumstance - planted on soils that were too wet or too dry, grown too ripe or beaten up in the cellar. Subpar locations can amplify its green side.
Still, exceptional Franc has emerged as winemakers figure out where to plant it. The best examples seem to require well-drained, shallow soils, not the clay that can boost Merlot. (Some California Franc was long mistaken for Merlot, worsening the problem.)
Mineral content is key. In Chinon, simpler wines hail from sandy sites near the river; top bottlings come from chalkier, higher-up vineyards. Pott favors the high iron content - similar to Bordeaux's right bank - in the volcanic Aiken soils that wind through Oakville to the top of Atlas Peak.
The biggest problem may be that Franc's history has led vintners to treat it as second-rate Cabernet. But Franc has a sensitive side. In the Loire, vintners take a delicate approach closer to Burgundy - little new oak and less time in barrel, with wines often in bottle by the summer after harvest.
Cab Franc's sensitive side
A more useful comparison might be to Pinot Noir - especially with its bright red fruit, earthy overtones and softer tannins. Skupny realized this when he was fine-tuning his basic North Coast bottling, an homage to Loire bistro wines. "I realized I was beating everything up too much," he says. Now, he uses only old barrels; the wine's in bottle after about nine months. "I really had to go to my Pinot Noir brethren for advice on how to treat it more delicately."
That delicate nature is also swaying devotees of the Bordeaux model. Chris Camarda of Washington state's Andrew Will Winery was so drawn to "a complexing quality" in the grape that he now uses up to 50 percent Franc in some of his single-vineyard blends.
Camarda and a handful of others are establishing Franc's new frontier up north. If California can be hostile territory, Washington has given Franc an excellent adopted home. Credit a mix of hot days, cold nights and higher latitude (around 46 degrees, similar to the central Loire, hence more summer daylight). The western Yakima Valley hosts excellent sites: the much-used Champoux vineyard, or Camarda's own Two Blondes vineyard outside Zillah, with its intense aromatic fruit.
To the east is Red Mountain, with nonstop sun and stiff winds. Ben Smith of Seattle's Cadence Winery was so bullish on Franc that when he planted his Cara Mia vineyard there he dedicated a full 40 percent to it. The 2007 vintage of his Bel Canto blend is more than 60 percent Franc.
"It has a texture, a mouthfeel, a silkiness that Cabernet Sauvignon doesn't have, period. And it has a complexity that you don't get in Cabernet Sauvignon," Smith says. "And when it's ripe you don't get those veggies, and on Red Mountain it has structure. So what am I losing?"
Taste their wines and the Franc is detectable in a pleasing way, providing a dose of curiosity. This was evident to Camarda in 1996 when he first sampled some from Red Mountain's Ciel du Cheval vineyard. "It tasted great on its own," he recalls, "but what really made the wine for me was its ability to make the Merlot more than what it was."
Curiously, Franc thrives in places where Cabernet Sauvignon struggles, perhaps because its presence in the Loire proved that it could ripen in regions too cold for Cab. Very good examples have emerged from New York's Long Island, and even from Ohio, North Carolina and Ontario. It can be found in Italy's Friuli, on the edge of the Alps.
A variety for cooler climates
But resistance remains. When Camarda asked the owners of Red Mountain's noted Klipsun Vineyard to plant Franc, they refused.
"I almost came unglued out of my shoes and bit my tongue," Camarda recalls. "You could point out to them that Cheval Blanc, s- wine that it is, can be up to 80 percent Cabernet Franc."
Fear of the green also hampers acceptance. Just ask Robert Foley, who first worked with it at Markham Vineyards in the early 1980s. As a nonbeliever, Foley has made his peace with the grape - growing it as ripe as possible, to at least 25 Brix (a measure of sugar), to get the seeds fully dark and lose any vegetal hints.
"Maybe just a hint of green tea, but you're out of the woods on cat piss and out of the woods on geraniums and all those wonky flavors," he says.
Foley can't seem to escape the grape; for years he made a benchmark version for Pride Mountain Vineyards. Though Foley doesn't use Franc in his own Claret, he still makes one - not entirely voluntarily - for Jeff Smith's Hourglass label.
"I've been Franc'd," he says.
Is that supposed to be a bad thing?
History of the grape
Cabernet Franc's American history dates back to the early 20th century, but only in the late 1970s and early '80s did it begin to take on a notable presence, both as part of the rise of the Meritage movement and, less so, as a varietal.
It has always been a bit polarizing. Veteran winemaker Bob Foley recalls Andre Tchelistcheff advising him to use Franc - very sparingly - as a blending component in the mid-'80s. Yet Lang & Reed's John Skupny points to a 1983 Cabernet Franc bottled under Francis Ford Coppola's label that was a runaway hit.
By the early 1990s, Franc had caught attention in Washington state, even in New York and even Ontario, where resistance to cold made it more appealing than Cabernet Sauvignon.
Unlike its Cabernet sibling, only a handful of clones for Franc are in major use, although UC Davis' Foundation Plant Services currently lists 14. One of the most popular is 214, interestingly based on a Loire Valley cultivar but frequently used in Bordeaux-style wines.
Several so-called suitcase clones also exist. Foley recalls dealing with cuttings from St. Emilion during his time at Markham in the late 1970s; cuttings from Cheval Blanc and Vieux Chateau Certan have apparently been planted as well.
>From the notebook
This sampling of Cabernet Franc varietal and blends from California and Washington mostly reflects a Bordeaux style, which helps explain the higher prices. Though available in limited quantities outside the state, Washington has several other standout Cabernet Francs from such labels as Barrister, Chinook and Owen Roe. Increasingly, wineries are also making a roséemulating the popular Chinon Rosé
2006 Andrew Will Two Blondes Vineyard Yakima Valley Red Wine ($52) The young vines in Chris Camarda's estate vineyard yield racy, aromatic wines. This new vintage, 43 percent Cabernet Franc plus Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, is no different. Distinct Franc presence on the nose: Tea, leather, ancho chile and flower-tinged berries play the high notes, subtle oak and cassis play the low. Bright, focused and spicy.
2006 Cadence Bel Canto Cara Mia Vineyard Red Mountain Red Wine ($55) From Cadence's estate vineyard in eastern Washington, this is Ben Smith's Cheval Blanc homage, with 52 percent Cabernet Franc and 48 Merlot. Generous, with an almost romantic nose - dry loam, black tea, chamomile, bright huckleberry. Very plush with sweet primary fruit. Fine-grained tannins make for a nuanced structure.
2006 Crocker & Starr St. Helena Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($58) No green meanies here. A hulking, extracted profile, with gobs of flavor - smoke, coffee, tangy raspberry atop black-fruit undertones, with a slightly aggressive kick at the finish. Plenty of sultry appeal (Starr calls the style "powerful, sexy, sappy") though its Franc roots aren't immediately apparent.
2006 Hourglass Blueline Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Franc ($135) From Jeff Smith's new vineyard near Calistoga. Starts with a smoky whiff, plus cassia and lighter floral notes - high-toned blueberry and a plummy bass line. Broad shouldered, but a supple profile and fine, ripe tannins lift it above a forceful 15.1 percent frame. Bob Foley may be a Franc skeptic, but he can still apply his cult-wine talents to it.
2007 Lang & Reed North Coast Cabernet Franc ($22) A Chinon-style bottling sourced mostly from higher-elevation vineyards in Lake County that allow for slower ripening. The rare example below 14 percent alcohol (13.5). It's right on point, with scents of tobacco, mistletoe and sweet blueberry. Juicy and refreshing, with slightly blocky tannins to finish.
2006 Palazzo Napa Valley Red Wine ($60) Scott Palazzo and his winemaker Peter Franus have caught the attention of places like the French Laundry with their restrained approach. This deeply fruited mix of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon puts forward cocoa and roast cherry, and then Franc-like notes appear with a subtle floral lift. Keep an eye out for Palazzo's rare but very good varietal 2006 Cabernet Franc, sourced from Carneros' Truchard Vineyards.
Franc in France
The Loire Valley's Franc-based wines have long had a California fan base, perhaps in part due to importer Kermit Lynch's advocacy. Some good names include:
Bernard Baudry (Chinon)
Domaine de Beausejour (Chinon)
Catherine and Pierre Breton (Bourgeuil, Chinon)
Charles Joguet (Chinon)
Jean-Maurice Raffault (Chinon)
Olga Raffault (Chinon)
E-mail Jon Bonnét jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/03/29/FD7816JHKV.DTL
This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
FYI/FYE.
Nice interactive map at the site.
Does Southwest Airlines fly to SFO?
C,
J
Tasting rooms worthy of more than 3 cheers
Jon Bonne, Chronicle Wine Editor
Sunday, March 22, 2009
The French-owned Roederer Estate winery creates sparkling... Peju Province Winery is known for a tasting-room employee...
It's been over a half-century since Napa Valley's first tasting room opened its doors at Charles Krug, and for decades since, we've been heading to Wine Country for visits. The Chronicle has been reviewing winery tasting rooms since 2002, trying to help readers get the most out of their day in Napa, Sonoma or Mendocino - or Oakland, Livermore or the Santa Cruz Mountains.
Certainly we spend enough time critiquing wine, but reviewing a tasting room is a different endeavor. The wines may be fine, but are there enough spots at the counter? Will it be an hour of unrepentant glitz, studious sniffing or a rustic bash? Can the staff tell you just how the Merlot was made? And at the same time do they make you feel welcome, or are they reminding you - for the fourth time - that you really, really, really want to join the wine club?
Everyone wants something different from their tasting-room visit, so we've selected a cross section of top tasting rooms all over Northern California, based on a combination of recent reviews and staff experiences. Much more important than the wine, all of these should leave you thinking they were worth the trip.
We've mostly focused on those venues that don't require an appointment, so unless otherwise noted, these should be ready for a walk-in visit. Because hours and fees change frequently and by the season, and some activities require reservations, call ahead.
A: Good for connoisseurs
B: Picnic area
C: Fee for tasting
D: Focus on pairings, or food available
E: Tour available
F: Sparkling wine
G: Great views or architecture
Napa
Artesa
The artwork, fountain and panoramic views at this modish winery, designed with a modern Spanish sensibility by cava house Cordoniu, are reason to detour. 1345 Henry Road, Napa. (707) 224-1668, artesawinery.com
C,E,G
Castello di Amorosa
Lest you think the medieval looks of this newly erected castle serve as facade, the authentic dungeon says otherwise. 4045 N. St. Helena Highway, Calistoga. (707) 967-6272, castellodiamorosa.com C,E,G
Charles Krug Winery
Napa Valley's first winery, now owned by the Peter Mondavi family, has revitalized itself. The newly renovated carriage house is a glimpse back into valley history. 2800 Main St., St. Helena. (707) 967-2200, charleskrug.com
B,C
Chimney Rock Winery
The wines are no-nonsense, the staff is knowledgeable, and you'll feel properly refined at this gorgeous spot near Stags Leap.
5350 Silverado Trail, Napa. (800) 257-2641, chimneyrock.com A,C,D,E,
Domaine Carneros Winery
Settle in on the terrace of this replica chateau and feel like royalty as you gaze over Carneros and enjoy table service. 1240 Duhig Road, off Highway 121, Napa. (800) 716-2788, domainecarneros.com C,D,E,F
Domaine Chandon
Though it's one of the larger sparkling-wine houses, Chandon takes the time to explain its wines and put them in context. The Etoile restaurant is on site as well. 1 California Drive, Yountville. (707) 944-2280, chandon.comC,D,E,F
Folio Winemakers Studio
A chance to check out Michael Mondavi's portfolio of wines from around the world in an inviting, bright setting that keeps the focus on winemaking. Ditto at the small Enoteca in the Oxbow Market in downtown Napa. 1285 Dealy Lane, near Henry Road. Napa. (707) 256-2757, foliowinemakersstudio.comB,C,E
Hall Napa Valley
Texas tycoon Craig Hall and wife Kathryn, a former ambassador, not only set the bar high for their Napa project but commissioned Frank Gehry to design a groundbreaking new facility, due in about a year. 401 S. St. Helena Highway (Highway 29), St. Helena. (707) 967-2626, hallwines.com B,C,E,G
Mason Cellars
It's all about Sauvignon Blanc from veteran vintner Randy Mason at this downtown Napa storefront.
714 First St. (at McKinstry), Napa. (707) 255-0658, masoncellars.com
Merryvale Vineyards
Hospitality is a major focus at this St. Helena property. For a bite, Taylor's Refresher is across the street. 1000 Main St., St. Helena. (707) 963-7777, merryvale.comC,E
Peju Province Winery
Peju's famous in-house yodeler makes for memorable visits. 8466 St. Helena Highway, Rutherford. (707) 963-3600, peju.com
B,C,D,E
Robert Sinskey Vineyards
Crowds aside, Rob Sinskey's eco-friendly winery puts the wines in context with food. (Sinskey's wife is a chef and cookbook author.) 6320 Silverado Trail, Napa. (707) 944-9090, robertsinskey.com
A,C,D,E
Sawyer Cellars
Lesser known, but one of the friendliest stops in Rutherford. 8350 St. Helena Highway (Highway 29), Rutherford. (707) 963-1980, sawyercellars.com
C,E
Stag's Leap Wine Cellars
This history-making winery is serious-minded, but a great place to learn about how top Cabernet is made. 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa. (707) 944-2020, cask23.com
A,C,E
Sutter Home Winery
The home of white Zin is a populist haven in the heart of wine-snob heaven. 277 St. Helena Highway, St. Helena. (707) 963-3104, sutterhome.com
Sonoma
B.R. Cohn Winery
The Doobie Brothers' manager keeps it mellow at his longtime Glen Ellen property. Try the olive oil tasting.
15000 Sonoma Highway, Glen Ellen. (707) 938-4064, brcohn.com
B,C,D,E
Benziger Family Winery
A busy but serious focus on farming and grape growing, right down to the tram tour of biodynamic vineyards. (Cow horns not included.) 1883 London Ranch Road, Glen Ellen. (707) 935-4527, benziger.com
A,B,C,E
Cline Cellars
Ponds and gardens make this a popular stop to wrap up the day. The California Missions Museum is on site. 24737 Arnold Drive (Highway 121), Sonoma; (707) 940-4000, www.clinecellars.com
B,E
Chateau St. Jean Winery
One of Sonoma's most beautiful properties, with seemingly endless tasting and picnic options. 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12), Kenwood. (707) 833-4134, chateaustjean.comB,C,E
David Coffaro Vineyard & Winery
A very low-key, personable reminder of Dry Creek in more relaxed times. 7485 Dry Creek Road, Geyserville. (707) 433-9715, coffaro.com
A
Gundlach Bundschu Winery
At 151 years old, this rustic-looking winery retains its whimsy without being silly. Try the Gewurztraminer and Tempranillo. 2000 Denmark St. (at Napa Road), Sonoma. (707) 939-3105, gunbun.comB,C,E
Iron Horse Ranch and Vineyards
One of Sonoma's most beautiful wine-tasting spots, and never snooty. Yes, you can even dump your leftover bubbly (if there is any) on the ground. 9786 Ross Station Road (off Highway 116), Sebastopol. (707) 887-1507, ironhorsevineyards.com A,C,E,F,G
J Vineyards & Winery
A special sit-down food pairing (though pricey) puts this noted bubbly maker's wines in context.
11447 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg. (707) 431-3646, jwine.com
C,D,E,F
Korbel Champagne Cellars
Not the fanciest wine, but a one-stop shop for casual visitors, including tours of the cellars and rose garden, and a full-service deli. 13250 River Road, Guerneville. (707) 824-7000, korbel.com
D,E,F
Kunde Estate Winery
The gorgeous setting doesn't trip up a casual vibe maintained by this family-run property.9825 Highway 12, Kenwood. (707) 833-5501, kunde.com
B,D,E,
Larson Family Winery
With farm animals and more, one of the few wineries that offers ways to keep the juice-box set occupied. 23355 Millerick Road, Sonoma; (707) 938-3031, larsonfamilywinery.com.
B,C
Papapietro Perry
Co-located with several other winery tasting rooms, you can try through top Pinots with one of the most fun-loving tasting-room crews around. 4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-0422, papapietro-perry.com
A,B,C
Preston of Dry Creek
Lou Preston's farmhouse-like facility is the cure for when you think all wineries are theme parks. 9282 W. Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-3372, prestonofdrycreek.com
B,C
Seghesio Family Vineyards
The quintessential Sonoma winery experience from one of the area's best-known families. 14730 Grove St., Healdsburg. (707) 433-3579, seghesio.com B,C,D
Mendocino
Goldeneye
Duckhorn's Pinot Noir division hosts visitors in a manner both stately and cozy, with fantastic Anderson Valley views. 9200 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-3202, goldeneyewinery.com
B,C,E,G,
Handley Cellars
Milla Handley's tasting room is always filled with offbeat art and visitors. A chance to taste one of California's benchmark Gewurztraminers. 3151 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-3876, handleycellars.com
A,B
Navarro
This Alsatian-varietal pioneer has a loyal following for good reason: Its staff is some of the most personable behind any tasting-room bar. 5601 Highway 128, Philo. (800) 537-9463, navarrowine.com
B,E
Roederer Estate
This remote outpost of a top Champagne house is friendly but focused on wines; they serve their brut from magnum so you can compare the effect of larger bottles. 4501 Highway 128, Philo. (707) 895-2288. roedererestate.com
A,C,E
Other regions
JC Cellars/Dashe Cellars
This duo set amid the warehouses of Oaktown offers a one-two punch in the same location. You can BART home. 55 Fourth St., Oakland. (510) 465-5900, jccellars.com and www.dashecellars.com
C,E
Mitchell Katz Winery
A stylish re-creation of the historic property makes for a regal visit to this Petite Sirah specialist. 1188 Vineyard Ave., Pleasanton. (925) 931-0744, mitchellkatzwinery.com
B,C, E
Ridge Vineyards
It's a long drive up, but one visit to this original Ridge location explains why its Monte Bello wines are so unique. 17100 Montebello Road, Cupertino. (408) 867-3233.
A,G
Also: 650 Lytton Springs Road, Healdsburg. (707) 433-7721. ridgewine.com
B
Sobon Estate
The Sobon family and their range of Zins help visitors to understand Sierra Foothills terroir.
14430 Shenandoah Road, Plymouth (Amador County). (209) 245-6554, sobonwine.com
B
Terre Rouge & Easton Wines (Domaine de la Terre Rouge)
Bill Easton and his Zinfandel and Rhone-style wines all but define Amador's wine potential. Perfect intro to Amador. 10801 Dickson Road, off Shenandoah Road, Plymouth. (209) 245-4277, terrerougewines.com
A,B,D,E
St. George Spirits
The lineup of St. George and Hangar One spirits (absinthe, eaux de vie and more) on the grounds of Alameda's old naval yard. 2601 Monarch St., Alameda. (510) 769-1601. stgeorgespirits.com
B,C,E
Wente Vineyards Estate Winery
Restaurant, golf course, summer concerts - this landmark Livermore property offers it all. 5565 Tesla Road, Livermore. (925) 456-2300 , wentevineyards.com
B,C,E
Etiquette
Miss Manners might be shocked by what transpires on the wine roads. After polling veteran tasting-room staff, we devised some basic rules of thumb:
-- Taste, don't gulp. You're there to try new wines and learn more about winemaking. If you want to drink, there are marvelous new establishments known as bars. Don't be afraid to spit.
-- Hydrate. Pack plenty of water, and drink it.
-- Don't take the glassware. Unless it's part of the tasting fee, they're loaners - even if you're picnicking.
-- Call ahead, especially for large groups. Some wineries require reservations for tables or patio space. Others have space limits. You might also be able to arrange a tour.
-- Be scent-sible. Go without the perfume and cologne for the day. It can be distracting to fellow visitors.
-- Don't bring outside booze. Even if you're having a picnic, one reason wineries provide space is that they're attracting customers. Buy some of their wine to open. Leave the beer at home.
-- Don't fake a wine club membership. Staff are often trained to root out impostors.
-- Choose your venue. Some wineries are designed to be more formal; some are flip-flop territory. Do a bit of advance research to find one that matches the experience you want.
Key
A: Good for connoisseurs
B: Picnic area
C: Fee for tasting
D: Focus on pairings, or food available
E: Tour available
F: Sparkling wine
G: Great views or architecture
Interactive map at SFGate.com
For a Google map of the tasting rooms listed here, go to sfgate.com/maps/tastingroomshttp://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/03/22/TRVL16BUSQ.DTL
This article appeared on page G - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
