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by Jim L. Ellingson

Unoaked Chardonnay Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, August 16, 2009 2007 Chehalem Inox Willamette Valley Chardonnay in San Fr... 2007 Iron Horse Vineyards Green Valley of Russian River V... 2008 Kim Crawford New Zealand Unoaked Chardonnay in San F... More... Chardonnay is vinified many ways, including without oak, which seems to be a growing trend. Without the influence of new oak, the fruit takes center stage. A good unoaked Chardonnay has expressive fruit and zippy acidity - traits of a good food wine. The most classic example is Chardonnay from Chablis in northern Burgundy in France, which is traditionally fermented in all stainless steel or in combination with used or neutral oak. Not fermenting or aging in oak means none of the butter, vanilla and toast character that many people associate with California Chardonnay. Even so, winemakers still use other techniques such as time on the lees, which adds a creamy texture, and malolactic fermentation, which softens the wine's acidity. Judicious use of oak can add much to a wine, but if you want one without, look for terms on the label like "unwooded," "inox" or "acero," which is Spanish for steel. 2007 Chehalem Inox Willamette Valley Chardonnay ($19) Chehalem's trademarked word Inox comes from the French word for stainless steel. A melange of fruit on the nose: green apple, kiwi, honeydew melon and almost a floral note. Clean, crisp palate with almost racy acidity. 2008 Four Vines Naked Santa Barbara County Chardonnay ($14) Founder and winemaker Christian Tietje's original Zinfandel-focused vision continues, but he has since added other varietals. Attractive fruit on nose and palate. Citrus, stone fruit and slight tropical aromas; hint of chalky mineral, balanced with Meyer lemon notes on the finish. 2007 Iron Horse Vineyards Green Valley of Russian River Valley Unoaked Chardonnay ($26) This third vintage of unoaked Chardonnay had one hour of skin contact and no malolactic fermentation. Citrusy, tangerine aromas and flavors plus hint of mineral; sharp acidity with lime zest on the finish. 2008 Kim Crawford New Zealand Unoaked Chardonnay ($17) Winemaker Matt Large chose to put this wine through partial malolactic fermentation. It is more full-bodied, with perfumed citrus blossom, golden pear and apple-like fruit aromas and flavors; still nicely tart but with a softer, rounder mouthfeel. (Importer: Constellation Wines U.S.) 2007 Mer Soleil Silver Soleil Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Unoaked Chardonnay ($30) Winemaker and vintner Charlie Wagner II, whose father owns Napa Valley's Caymus Vineyards, has made the third vintage of Silver, sourced from the cool, dry lower slope of the Sierra de Salinas Range. A more tropical nose with pear, pineapple and citrus aromas. 2008 Passaggio Wines New Generation California Unoaked Chardonnay ($13) Cindy Cosco is one of about 5,000 customers producing wine at San Francisco's Crushpad. Her second vintage is bottled with a Zork closure, an alternative to cork. Clean and crisp with apple, green pear and hint of melon in the nose and palate. Fuller-bodied style. Lynne Char Bennett is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/08/16/FDAU196P49.DTL This article appeared on page K - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle © 2009 Hearst Communications Inc. | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site Index | Contact -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 3 months

[wine] Arezzo is a go for 8/13

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Just made the reservation for 6:30 Thursday 13 August. Style is Italian - white and/or red. Thanks to those who replied: Dave Turand Jim, Louise, Kathy, Russ, Sue Bill "Hop Along" S, Alicia A I've made the reservation for the eight people listed. Let me know if you're joining us, or if you can't make it. Arezzo Ristorante 5057 France Ave S, Minneapolis, 55410 612 285-7444 www.arezzoristorante.org Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Tue, 11 Aug 2009 19:17:01 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Dave Turandino says Arezzo Greetings, Dave T would like to meet at Arezzo this week or next. I'm available this week. Louise and Kathy are a maybe. Please let me know so I can call Dave and Arezzo. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:22:40 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Meeting this week? Arezzo? Greetings, Russ, Sue, Alicia, Dave T and I are planning to meet this week. Thursday, 6:30 at Arezzo in Mpls/Edina. I'm bringing wines from Piedmont or at least in that style. $6 per person in lieu of corkage. Cheers, Jim * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * _______________________________________________ wine mailing list wine(a)thebarn.com http://www.thebarn.com/mailman/listinfo/wine ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * _______________________________________________ wine mailing list wine(a)thebarn.com http://www.thebarn.com/mailman/listinfo/wine ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 3 months

[wine] Dave Turandino says Arezzo

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Dave T would like to meet at Arezzo this week or next. I'm available this week. Louise and Kathy are a maybe. Please let me know so I can call Dave and Arezzo. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:22:40 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Meeting this week? Arezzo? Greetings, Russ, Sue, Alicia, Dave T and I are planning to meet this week. Thursday, 6:30 at Arezzo in Mpls/Edina. I'm bringing wines from Piedmont or at least in that style. $6 per person in lieu of corkage. Cheers, Jim * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * _______________________________________________ wine mailing list wine(a)thebarn.com http://www.thebarn.com/mailman/listinfo/wine ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 3 months

[wine] Beaujolais Complex

by Jim L. Ellingson

Do your own "Bob" joke. BTW, I have a free spot for anyone interested in a tasting by Michael Martini of Ghost Pines and Louis Martini. Additional or guest spots are just $15 per person. Contact me at 651 645 0753 if interested. Tasting is at 7 in Bloomington. Cheers, Jim August 5, 2009 WINES OF THE TIMES Beaujolais Shows Its Complex Side By ERIC ASIMOV FEW wine names are better known around the world than Beaujolais, but no well-known wine is as little understood. The reasons for this are clear. Perhaps no other wine today is as defined, and as victimized, by its marketing and its history as Beaujolais. In short, Beaujolais is imprisoned by clichés. Marketing, of course, is what transformed the image of Beaujolais from a light and charming bistro wine to Beaujolais nouveau. The annual roll-out-the-barrels of Beaujolais nouveau took a quaint local harvest celebration and made it a worldwide phenomenon, sadly centered on wines that were largely tutti frutti and banal. Novelty begat boredom, and in the United States at least, the annual arrival of Beaujolais nouveau has been met with yawns for some time now. The history issue is a little trickier. For as long as most people remember, Beaujolais was a jolly little wine. The proverbial river of Beaujolais poured forth to Lyon, and eventually to cafes and neighborhood joints in Paris and other parts of France. But as with so much of wine lore, the notion of Beaujolais as a simple quaff needs to be put to sleep. Sad or not, the fact is that the wine world has changed sharply since Beaujolais perked up the daily lives and meals of so many French families. For one thing, the French don’t drink nearly as much wine as they once did, and when they do drink, they are now more discerning and more price conscious. As has been well documented, producers of vin ordinaire, whether it comes from Bordeaux, Languedoc or Beaujolais, have been in trouble for some time now. There are fewer customers and increased competition from the growing number of wine-producing countries around the world. At the same time, serious artisanal producers in Beaujolais have in the last 20 years done the same as serious artisanal producers everywhere else: they have vastly improved the quality and consistency of their wines, building on a greater understanding of viticulture and winemaking. Instead of selling cheap wine to a wide market of inexpensive bistros and cafes, top Beaujolais producers now sell to a narrower slice of the market willing to pay more money for wines of higher quality. The future of good Beaujolais, just as it is for many wines, is a specialty market of knowledgeable consumers with disposable income. Yet in the context of Beaujolais, the top wines are still only $15 to $30 a bottle. This may seem expensive according to outdated ideas about Beaujolais, yet, as the wine panel discovered in a tasting of 20 cru Beaujolais from the 2007 vintage, they are excellent values given the level of their quality. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Chris Goodhart, who oversees wine programs at Keith McNally’s restaurants, and Fred Dexheimer, a sommelier turned consultant. The cru Beaujolais, made from 10 communes judged to have distinctive terroirs, are generally the best wines of the region. Wines labeled Beaujolais or Beaujolais-Villages tend to be like the simpler wines of yore, though from good producers they can be highly satisfying. The transformation of wine from everyday grocery to luxury good has induced some winemakers around the world to cynically tailor their methods in a quest for higher ratings and greater profits. But as far as we could tell this has not at all been the case with top Beaujolais producers. Indeed, not only our top wines but also almost all the bottles we tried seemed to be sincere efforts at making the best possible wines without resorting to crowd-pleasing measures like layering on oaky or overtly fruity flavors. Instead, our favorites were indisputably serious wines that combine density of flavor with lightness of body, and beautiful aromas of fruit, flowers, minerals and spice with freshness and structure. While these wines belie the patronizing cliché that Beaujolais is a simple though charming wine, the best of these wines nonetheless retain the innate joyousness at the heart of the gamay grape. Our favorite, the Côte-de-Brouilly from Jean-Paul Brun, was simultaneously serious and exuberant, delicious yet with enough complexity and precision to give you something to think about. Similarly, our No. 2 wine, the Juliénas from Michel Tête, had densely layered aromas and flavors yet was light and elegant. At $16 it was our best value, though it had competition from the Brun, which was only $2 more. The wines at the top of the list, from Côte-de-Brouilly, Juliénas, Chiroubles and Brouilly, tended to be a little more open and accessible than the rest of the wines in our top 10, which, with one exception, came from Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie, which generally give denser, more structured wines. Domaine Diochon’s Moulin-à-Vent was particularly rich and chewy, while Daniel Bouland’s Vieilles Vignes was a classically rugged Morgon, though with an underlying beauty that will emerge with another year or two of aging. Also among this group was the spicy, juicy Régnié Vallières from Jean-Marc Burgaud. Our No. 10 wine was a Moulin-à-Vent from Georges Duboeuf, who largely personifies Beaujolais around the world. While some wines issued under the Duboeuf name can be very good, I have often found his inexpensive flower label wines have an unappealing candied quality. Not this one. It had all the density and complexity one could wish for in a Moulin-à-Vent. Aside from our top 10 wines, some other producers are well worth seeking out. Marcel Lapierre makes beautifully balanced Morgons, while Louis-Claude Desvignes’s Morgons are more sturdy and structured. I’m also a big fan of the Fleuries of Clos de la Roilette and the Moulin-à-Vents from Louis Jadot’s Château des Jacques. While the received wisdom continues to dismiss Beaujolais as a simple little wine, these wines speak far differently. Tasting Report: Flavorful Yet Light Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Côte-de-Brouilly 2007 $18 *** 1/2 (Three and a Half Stars) Joyous, with precise aromas and flavors of flowers, berries, anise and minerals. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) BEST VALUE Michel Tête Domaine du Clos du Fief Juliénas 2007 $16 *** 1/2 (Three and a Half Stars) Dense yet elegant with lovely aromas and flavors of fruit, iron and granite. (Louis/Dressner Selections) Georges Descombes Chiroubles 2007 $28 *** (Three Stars) Light-bodied, with lingering flavors of fruit, flowers and minerals. (Louis/Dressner Selections) Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux Brouilly Pierreux 2007 $26 *** (Three Stars) Juicy, balanced and delicious with flavors of blackberries and earth. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing, Unionville, Pa.) Domaine Diochon Moulin-à-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2007 $19 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Dense with deep flavors of dark fruit, earth and granite. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.) Jean-Marc Burgaud Régnié Vallières 2007 $22 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Fresh and bright with lovely aromas of violets, cinnamon and plums. (Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland) Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py 2007 $30 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Earthy, with silky texture and flavors of black cherries and spices. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Daniel Bouland Morgon Vieilles Vignes 2007 $20 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Dense and rugged with flavors of black cherries and earth. (Weygandt-Metzler Importing) Château du Chatelard Fleurie Cuvée Tradition 2007 $24 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Serious with balanced flavors of fruit, spice, minerals and flowers. (Wineberry America, New York) Georges Duboeuf Moulin-à-Vent Flower Label 2007 $12 ** 1/2 (Two and a Half Stars) Juicy, smoky and silky; aromas of fruit, flowers and minerals. (W. J. Deutsch & Sons, White Plains) -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 4 months

[wine] 510 Chef Brad Schutte found dead.

by Jim L. Ellingson

Sad, sad news team. Our friend Craig Schutte has suffered theterrible loss of his brother Brad. Recall Brad and Craig ran the 510 Restaurant, one of our favorite destinations. Below is the article from the Strib. More info here: http://kstp.com/news/stories/s1061143.shtml I don't have an address for Craig, but would be interested in sending a card and/or flowers. Best, Jim Man drowned in hot tub owned bar The man friends called "Sutterbug" owned and operated Stasiu’s Place in Northeast Minneapolis. By ABBY SIMONS, Star Tribune Last update: August 1, 2009 - 10:21 PM A man discovered drowned in a Robbinsdale hot tub Friday afternoon was a former chef and the owner of a popular Northeast Minneapolis bar, said grieving friends Saturday as they reminisced about the buddy they called “Sutterbug”. Brad Schutte, 39, who lived in Minneapolis, owned and operated Stasiu’s Place, a neighborhood bar at the corner of University and Lowry avenues NE that frequently books live, local music acts that often played for free. Schutte was found dead after Robbinsdale police and Hennepin County Sheriff’s deputies were called to a house in the 3800 block of Toledo Avenue at 1:30 p.m. Friday. He appeared to have drowned, said Inspector Tracey Martin of the sheriff’s office. A search of the home turned up drugs, and a 32-year-old woman and 30 year-old man were booked into the Hennepin County Jail for probable cause drug possession and weapons violations. They have not yet been formally charged. Schutte’s brother, Craig Schutte, said he was too overwhelmed Saturday to talk about his brother. He said he is still in constant communication with law enforcement as they wait for relatives to arrive to Minnesota. “We’ve just got a lot to deal with,” he said On Saturday, Martin released no new details of the investigation, and would not discuss whether authorities suspect foul play. Martin did not know the two were also booked for possible weapon violations. The bar remained closed Saturday, and no vigil was planned, though friends flooded Schutte’s facebook page with tributes from bar regulars and longtime friends who posted photos, reminisced and shared their shock and heartbreak. Among them was Johnny Myhers, who met Schutte when he took over Stasiu’s in 2005 after working as chef and owner of the now-closed 510 restaurant, located near the Walker Art Center. In addition to supporting local bands, Schutte was known for taking the stage to strum out a tune by local music heroes such as The Replacements or Soul Asylum. Myhers and Schutte quickly became close friends, and Schutte dubbed himself “The Love Doctor” after helping Myhers make up with his girlfriend, Cindy Hatch, following a spat at a wedding there weeks ago. “His place was one where you could go to the bar by yourself, but you’d never be alone,” Myhers said. “He always wanted to have a good time. Stasiu’s itself has its own niche of close friend and family, and he was like our leader.” Myhers and Hatch don’t know what happened Friday afternoon, but they suspect what happened to Schutte was nothing more than a horrible accident. Their friend sometimes lived “a bit on the wild side.” Myhers said, but also would literally give the shirt off his back to others, and was an adoring father to his girls, ages 7 and 9. “He wasn’t just a bartender. He wasn’t just a friend, he wasn’t just a father,” Hatch said. “He was a chef, a confidante, a text-messaging buddy. He was more than just what they say.” Abby Simons • 612-673-4921 -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 4 months

[wine] Napa Zins

by Jim L. Ellingson

Happy Shopping: from SFGChronicle Napa Valley Zinfandel Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, July 5, 2009 2006 August Briggs Old Vine Napa Valley Zinfandel 2007 Brown Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel 2006 Downing Family Vineyards Fly by Night Oakville Zinfa... 2006 Green & Red Vineyard Chiles Canyon Vineyards Napa Va... More... Zinfandel can be grown in many climates, often from warmer regions that produce very ripe, juicy, big wines. Napa Valley - with Zinfandel planted as a very minor player - has mountain vineyards that receive plenty of sun but not as much heat. Napa Valley winemakers who love this grape set the prices for their Zins according to the Napa Valley reputation, which brings a premium. Here are a few Napa Zinfandels that should appeal to folks who prefer a more moderate and slightly restrained style. 2006 August Briggs Old Vine Napa Valley Zinfandel ($32). Winemaker Joe Briggs, who co-owns the winery with his wife, Sally, first produced his own label in 1995. Briggs has made wine for about 25 years, including Pinot Noir at La Crema. This bottling has a lifted nose with aromas and flavors of red and black cherry and plum, and bright acidity with almost Claret-like structure. A great food partner. 2007 Brown Estate Napa Valley Zinfandel ($36). The Brown family has been a part of the Napa Valley for almost 30 years. Co-owner (with his two sisters) and winemaker Dave Brown - who has been through almost 15 crushes - sourced the fruit for this wine from the Chiles Valley district. Lovely Zin nose and palate with spiced plum, cherry and chocolate hints; ripe and concentrated without being heavy. 2006 Downing Family Vineyards Fly by Night Oakville Zinfandel ($29). This darkly fruited wine from proprietors John and Tracy Downing and winemaker Randy Mason is for fans of a slightly riper style. This vintage is the second from the certified organic H&H vineyard. Clean and bright with plenty of ripe, but not jammy, fruit, and notes of chocolate. 2006 Green & Red Vineyard Chiles Canyon Vineyards Napa Valley Zinfandel ($21). Pam and Jay Heminway founded the winery in 1977, naming it for the vineyards' red iron soil accented with green serpentine striations. This bottling - blended from the three mountain vineyards overlooking Chiles Canyon - is a leaner, more restrained style with savory notes underscoring the red plum and berry. Bright acid on the finish. 2006 The Terraces Napa Valley Zinfandel ($28). >From the Crull family's Quarry Vineyards in Rutherford, which was originally planted to grapes in the late 1800s. Smoky notes, spice, more reddish fruit and structure, with a lengthy finish. Plenty of oak from 18 months in French and American barrels. Could use some time. Includes 8 percent Petite Sirah and 1.5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/07/05/FD1U18FMHR.DTL This article appeared on page K - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 4 months

[wine] Karin has sent you a link to Artisan Vineyards

by karin＠umn.edu

16 years, 4 months

[wine] Gru-Vee

by Jim L. Ellingson

July 8, 2009 WINES OF THE TIMES If It Wasn.t for That Umlaut ... By ERIC ASIMOV GRÜER VELTLINER is one of summer.s great, unlikely pleasures. Why unlikely? Well, it may seem shallow, but Americans have always been riveted by the mellifluous, flowing wine names drawn of the romance languages . the chardonnays, pinot grigios and Sancerres. Germanic terms, with their umlauts and consonant pileups, have historically posed obstacles, whether gewüminer, blaufräisch (its alternate name, lemberger, is no better) or the ever-popular trockenbeerenauslese. Yet grüeltliner from Austria has not only survived but prospered on restaurant lists across the country. It.s one of those happily inexplicable things. Years ago I never would have guessed that Americans would fall in love with raw fish, but now sushi bars are everywhere. One possible reason for grüeltliner.s popularity is that, unlike riesling, it does not have to overcome the assumption that it.s sweet. Sure, sweet grüeltliners are produced, very good ones in fact. But they are the exception. Consumers can be confident when they order a bottle that it will be dry. Another is the wine itself. Grüeltliner can range from crisp and light-bodied to rich and full-bodied, with aromas and flavors of lemon and grapefruit, flowers and herbs. Perhaps its most distinctive feature is a peppery spiciness. Good examples can also have a minerality. Across the stylistic board, though, a dry grüeltliner should have a refreshing tanginess, borne of good acidity. All told, a good grüeltliner goes wonderfully with many foods. As for the name, Americans have found several methods of sliding by. Most common is simply truncating the name, calling it grüand softening it to GROO-ner rather than the more correct, diacritical GREWH-ner), and dispensing with the ungainly veltliner (pronounced FEHLT-lee-ner). Some call it simply G.V., and occasionally you.ll find sommeliers and industry people who use the insiderish term gru-ve, pronounced .groovy.. With high expectations of summer meals happily accompanied by glistening bottles of grüeltliner, the wine panel recently sampled 19 bottles from the 2007 vintage, which has the reputation of being good to grüand one from 2008. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Belinda Chang, wine director at the Modern, and David Lynch, who recently left his position as general manager at the John Dory to take a job as wine director at Quince in San Francisco. As eager as we were to embrace the wines, the tasting was somewhat disquieting. While we very much liked our favorites, we found too many wines that were not up to snuff. Some were ponderous and heavy, too big with not enough zesty acidity. A few of the big ones had detectable sweetness, a style that Belinda called .Alsace grü after the wines from Alsace that can unpredictably have a bit of residual sugar. Others seemed simply wan and lacked snap. .When a good grüeally delivers, it has depth,. David said. .A lot just lacked acidity.. Belinda wondered whether some of our disappointment was a result of high expectations. Perhaps so, but the wines we liked best certainly were as good as anticipated. There was no disputing our favorite, the Domä Wachau Federspiel Terrassen, which had all the balance we were hoping to find, along with pure, deep, complex flavors. As you might guess, Domä Wachau is in the Wachau region of Austria, which produces the country.s richest wines; in the best bottles, though, the richness comes without weight and heft. Wachau alone uses a specific terminology for the ripeness at which the grapes are harvested. A federspiel wine, like our No. 1, is harvested at the medium ripeness level. The ripest Wachau wines are called smaragd (pronounced shmar-AHGD), and they also tend to be the most expensive. Indeed the two Wachau smaragds in our top 10, the Prager Achleiten and the Alzinger Münt, were by far the most expensive of our favorites. Both had a crystalline purity and a peppery, minerally richness, with underlying citrus, floral and mineral flavors. The other leading grüeltliner regions are Kamptal and Kremstal, sources of 5 of our top 10 bottles. While these may not have the richness of the Wachau smaragds, they are not necessarily slender wines, though our No. 3 bottle, the Birgit Eichinger Hasel from Kamptal, was beautifully weightless, with refreshing, tangy flavors. But both the Büer Holzgasse from Kremstal and the Hiedler Thal from Kamptal were substantial, balanced, delicious wines. Some of the best values come from other regions. The Graff Hardegg Veltlinsky, a $14 bottle, had a lovely texture, with flavors of citrus, flowers and minerals. It comes from the Weinviertel region, although the label cannot say so officially because the wine carries a brand name, Veltlinsky. Speaking of values, the liter bottle for $13 from E.&M. Berger is a perennial. It.s not a complex wine, but it is satisfying. All good, right? Well, let.s not forget those disappointing bottles. Some were rich wines that were also fatiguing, as if some producers were aiming for smaragd-level ripeness without the balance that keeps a big wine refreshing. They were heavy-handed, while a good grüeltliner should have an almost electric jolt of bracing acidity. I.m hesitant to make this comparison, but the tasting reminded me of what has happened with some New Zealand sauvignon blancs. These wines have achieved tremendous popularity in the last 25 years, but of late I can.t help but sense that some producers are not taking particular care in making their wines. Instead they treat the genre like a cash cow, confident that cachet will triumph over a lack of effort. I don.t think grüeltliner producers have strayed that far, but compared with previous tastings I do sense a falloff. With a little more attention to balance, perhaps all will be groovy again. Tasting Report: Grüeltliners, the Quiet Austrians BEST VALUE Domä Wachau Grüeltliner $15 ... ½ Federspiel Terrassen 2007 Pure, deep, balanced and refreshing with complex citrus, spice and herbal aromas and flavors. (Importer: Vin DiVino, Chicago) Prager Wachau Grüeltliner $56 ... Smaragd Achleiten 2007 Bright and rich with classic peppery minerality. (Vin DiVino) Birgit Eichinger Kamptal $17 ... Grüeltliner Hasel 2007 Light-bodied and tangy, with lingering flavors of grapefruit and white pepper. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa.) Alzinger Wachau Grüeltliner $45 .. ½ Münt Smaragd 2007 Bold and assertive with rich aromas and flavors of flowers, pepper and lemon. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.) Graff Hardegg Grüeltliner $14 .. ½ Veltlinsky 2007 Balanced, with aromas and flavors of grapefruit, flowers and minerals. (Monika Caha Selections/Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York) Büer Kremstal $17 .. ½ G rüeltliner Holzgasse 2007 Rich and balanced with spicy citrus flavors.(Weygandt-Metzler) Hiedler Kamptal $20 .. ½ Grüeltliner Thal 2007 Rich and savory with flavors of lemon and white pepper. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines) E.&M. Berger Kremstal $13 .. Grüeltliner 2008 1 liter Spicy, with aromas and flavors of flowers, citrus and peach. (Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines) Anton Bauer Wagram $19 .. Grüeltliner 2007 Nicely textured with straightforward flavors of citrus and white pepper. (Prescott Wines, New York) Summerer Kamptal Grüeltliner $24 .. Schenkenbichl 2007 Balanced with aromas of flowers and peaches. (Savio Soares Selections/Willette Wines, New York) -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Aussie Shiraz

by Jim L. Ellingson

If you're putting red meat on the barby, these might be more in line. Australian Shiraz $20 and less Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, June 14, 2009 More... Father's Day celebrations involve a grill, usually with meat over the fire. Syrah - called Shiraz in Australia and some other wine regions - is a great match. This berry-packed wine is Australia's major red. It can include aromas and flavors of earth, pepper, smoke and game. While jammy, fruit-forward Shiraz can still be found, many producers seem to be throttling back a bit, bottling a good bit of fruit with enough acidity to give it some zip as well as tannin for structure and texture. Australia led the screw cap trend even on expensive wines. A majority of the more affordable ones can be opened with just a twist of the wrist (about 85 percent of the wines we tasted were bottled with screw caps). There is a plethora of Australian Shiraz bottlings priced $20 and less. These will complement your Dad's Day grilling. 2007 Banrock Station South Eastern Australia ($6.99). This popular former sheep ranch in South Australia offers a readily available wine with plenty of cherry and spice with hints of oak. Not overly fruited, not too tannic, just right for the table or to be enjoyed on its own. (Importer: International Cellars/Constellation Wines Australia) 2008 d'Arenberg Stump Jump McLaren Vale Shiraz ($11). The d'Arenberg family's wine legacy in McLaren Vale dates back to the early 1900s. Chester Osborn is its current head. Workhorse bottling Stump Jump is a great everyday food wine. Subtle nose of ripe fruit with rich, New World leanings; balanced and not overblown. Just as good a value is the serious 2006 d'Arenberg Footbolt McLaren Vale Shiraz ($19). (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2008 Layer Cake South Australia Shiraz ($15) For this wine's third vintage, winemaker Jayson Woodbridge, used more than 90 percent McLaren Vale fruit sourced from small growers. Aged in 50 percent new French oak, which adds layers of spice to the deep blackberry, plum and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Rich, with weight, substance and long finish, it has plenty of fruit to take on barbecue with aplomb. (Importer: Vintage Point) 2007 Kilikanoon Killerman's Run South Australia Shiraz ($20). Owner/winemaker Kevin Mitchell founded Kilikanoon in 1997 in the Clare Valley region. On the growing side of the winery's primary 230 acres is Mitchell's father, Mort - who lays claim to the eponymous Mort's Block. This bottling, though meant to be enjoyed in its youth, has a rich enough blackberry core and slightly grippy tannins to see a few years of aging. Pepper, oak shadings and bacon-y hints overlay the fruit; almost plush on the palate with a touch of heat on the finish. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2007 Penley Estate Hyland Coonawarra Shiraz ($20). Penley Estate founder Kym Tolley has made wine for 36 years, including a stint at Penfolds from 1973 until 1988. Tolley first released the Hyland Shiraz in 1990, just a couple of years after starting his winery. This bottling is subtle and refined. Both nose and palate show some complexity; bright with a bit of floral perfume, spice, dark ripe berry with mocha hints. Balanced and well put together. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2006 West Cape Howe Western Australia Shiraz ($15). This winery - built in 1997 - was Western Australia's first contract winemaking facility. Head winemaker Gavin Berry's workhorse bottling has the fruit, body and structure to support the blackberry, spice and loamy hint. An outstanding performer for its price, as are its two West Cape Howe siblings - the 2007 Zeepaard Shiraz ($10) and 2006 West Cape Howe Two Steps Great Southern Shiraz-Viognier ($18). (Importer: The Country Vintner/Grape Expectations) Lynne Char Bennett is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/06/14/FDO1182NE0.DTL This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Pinks w/ Panache, Panachee, Panachio, plumage, etc.

by Jim L. Ellingson

A Whiter Shade of Red By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, June 17, 2009 We seem to be getting over our hang-ups about pink wine. And that's a good thing, though perhaps with a (slight) downside. U.S. sales of imported roséines increased 42 percent in the past year, according to a study commissioned by the Provence Wine Council. A self-serving survey, perhaps, because Provence is the land of roséBut an enlightening one, because it shows how Americans' perceptions of wine are changing. No longer does pink wine mean the sweet pablum of white zinfandel. We apparently have embraced the idea of rosés a dry semi-white wine with red characteristics. A good roséan be an ideal end to a sweaty workday and an electrifying start to a summer supper. It can transform your mood from glum to cheerful in a single sip, transferring the cares from your shoulders to the setting sun as it seeps into the horizon. We love roséecause we are becoming more comfortable with wine. The world's greatest wines engage our intellects as well as our senses, but roséill have none of that. It is pure, unadulterated fun. While a high-scoring cult wine may offer gobs of this and layers of that, a well-chilled roséaptures the summer sun, whether reflected off the Mediterranean at a plaza cafe along the Cote d'Azur or off a backyard swimming pool in Upper Marlboro. Rosés the essence of summer. What is the downside of all this? As rosébecome more popular, more of them become available in our market, and their quality varies. The good news about that bad news is that as I've tasted my way through a bunch of rosénow on retail shelves, I have found very few inferior ones, just a lot of pleasant ones. And some exciting ones. So what should you consider in an Old World rosé(I will discuss New World rosénext week.) Vintage matters, but not as much as you might think. The common wisdom is that rosés best the year after the harvest, so you'll see many 2008s on retail shelves this summer. But many 2007s are drinking beautifully right now, and because of the market bias for young rosétheir prices may be discounted. Don't overlook them. Color really doesn't matter. Rosérange from a vibrant, translucent red to an ethereal pale hue. Some people say the palest roséare the best, but that is a matter of taste. Tavel, a town in the southern Rhone Valley, is known for deep-colored, vibrant rosé while Bandol, a bit farther south along the Mediterranean coast east of Marseille, produces wines of a light, delicate color. Both can be excellent. A true rosés bled, not blended. The winemaker bleeds off the juice from the skins of red grapes (a wine's color comes from the grape's skin) after a short maceration. (The notable exception is sparkling wines, such as champagne, that do mix red and white varieties in their rosé) The European Commission created a scandal recently by proposing to legalize the blending of red and white grapes to make roséable wine; an outcry by producers and customers forced officials to withdraw the idea. Rosés either an intentional creation or a byproduct of red wine production. A winemaker who intends to make roséill pick the grapes just as ripening begins, when they retain vibrant acidity and sugar levels are not too high. If a red is the goal, the winemaker picks the grapes later, when sugar levels are higher, then bleeds off a portion of the juice immediately after crushing in order to concentrate the flavors and color in the remaining juice. In the past, that bled-off juice was discarded or sold to make bulk wine, until wineries realized that roséas marketable. Those latter roséare often called "saignee," from the French word for "to bleed," even though that term applies to the technique by which all roséare made. They are often quite pleasant. But they rarely offer the excitement and liveliness of wines that were intended to be pink. Dave McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, June 17, 2009 Domaine Lucien Lardy "Opaline" 2008 *** Beaujolais-Villages, France, $13 (Great Value) Salmon color, with an intriguing nose of wild strawberry and mint, followed by a vibrant expression of the gamay grape with citrus, clove and cardamom. Exotic for a rosécombining traditional structure with modern fruity exuberance. There are more classic rosé but few better. The grapes are from vines averaging 50 years of age. Wine Traditions: available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean. Jean-Luc Colombo, 2008 *** Cote Bleue, France, $12 (Great Value) Exotic aromas of orange peel and cardamom, enticing balance and mouth-filling fruit that belies the pale salmon color. Republic National: available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Rodman's; on the list at Cafe du Parc, Cedar, Juniper, L'Enfant Cafe-Bar. Available in Virginia at Wegmans locations. Alain Jaume et Fils "Clos de Sixte" 2008 ** Lirac, France, $27 Vibrant deep red color, mouth-filling and exuberant; a textbook rosérom the southern Rhone Valley. Kysela: available in the District at Calvert Woodley; on the list at Michel Richard Citronelle. Available in Maryland at Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Out of Site Wines in Vienna, Vineyard of Virginia in McLean, Wegmans locations; on the list at Eiffel Tower Cafe in Leesburg, Tallula in Arlington. Domaine de Cambis, "La Vie en Rose" 2008 ** Saint-Chinian, France, $16 Pale and delicate in color and flavor, with strawberry, watermelon and cherry along with a hint of salty sea air. OSLO Enterprise/Voila Collection: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Bell Wine & Spirits, MacArthur Beverages. Available in Maryland at Franklin's Restaurant, Brewery and General Store in Hyattsville, Rip's Wine and Spirit Shop in Bowie, Iron Bridge Wine in Columbia, Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis, the Wine Source and Bin 604 in Baltimore; on the list at Cafe de Paris in Columbia. Mas de Gourgonnier 2007 ** Les Baux-de-Provence, France, $10 (Great Value) Discounted because it is considered ancient at the grand old age of two. Maturity suits it well, with intriguing flavors of wood spice and wild fruit. Organic. Dionysus: available in the District at various Whole Foods Market locations; on the list at Restaurant Nora. Available in Maryland at MOM's in Rockville; available in Virginia at MOM's in Alexandria, Whole Foods Market locations. 1+1=3 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosado 2008 * 1/2 Penedes, Spain, $16 Modern in style: full-bodied for a roséwith sappy, sweet-ripe fruit. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at Bell Wine & Spirits, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, various Whole Foods Markets, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Bodega, Jaleo, La Tasca (all area locations), Taberna del Alabardero. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Whole Foods Markets; on the list at El Manantial in Reston. Masciarelli Rosé'Abruzzo 2008 * 1/2 Abruzzo, Italy, $12 A delightful, refreshing quaffer with a "Fritalian" name. Juicy and fun. Constantine: widely available, including in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, De Vinos, Marvelous Market (Georgetown), Yes! Organic Market (Brookland); in Maryland at Chesapeake Wine Co., Grand Cru and the Wine Source in Baltimore. Finca Torremilanos Montecastrillo Rosado 2008 * 1/2 Ribera del Duero, Spain, $15 Bright strawberry-red color and exuberant fruit; slightly tart but an excellent foil for acidic foods such as olives and anchovies. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Wide World of Wines; available in Maryland at Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington, Spirits of Mount Vernon in Baltimore; available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean, Food Matters in Alexandria. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

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