Conventional Wisdom takes a soaking. Actually.
Some unconventional wisdom about wine
By BILL WARD1, Star Tribune
Last update: March 10, 2011 - 10:32 AM
Here's the great thing about wine: It asks
absolutely nothing of us. It does not demand
or even require that we learn everything, or
even anything, about it.
I choose to treat wine as a continuing-
education course of sorts. Which means that
along with learning a lot, I have had to
"unlearn" some conventional wisdom along
the way. To wit:
Conventional wisdom: Old wines should be decanted.
Actually: Wines from the 20th century tend to fall apart rather quickly after
being exposed to much oxygen. Young, tight
reds are better targets for decanting. Before
decanting any wine, taste it.
Conventional wisdom: With higher-end wines, it's risky to drink them young.
Actually: In most cases (aside from some European and üannic California wines),
the bigger risk is sitting on them for five or
10 years. Old wines often are interesting but
not terribly tasty, and few wines that are
"too" anything (tannic, fruity, acidic, oaky)
upon release to "smooth out" and achieve
balance with age. The vast majority of wines
are meant to be consumed within a year or
two after they hit the shelves.
Conventional wisdom: The way to assess a wine is by its aromas and initial flavors.
Actually: I have become much more of a mid-palate and finish guy. I love sniffing
wines -- some can be so enticing and
exciting that I just want to sit and smell them
-- but the weight, texture and flavors on the
middle and back ends leave a more indelible
and lasting impression.
Conventional wisdom: As with writing, the best way to become a good taster is to taste,
taste and taste some more.
Actually: OK, this one is true. But once one becomes
somewhat familiar and adept with wines, it's
more like tennis or chess: The best way to
learn is to taste with someone who's more
knowledgeable and discerning than you --
but preferably just a little bit more (and not a boor).
Conventional wisdom: Burgundy is hard to understand.
Actually: Burgundy is impossible to understand. But that doesn't
mean I won't keep on trying.
Conventional wisdom: Perfect pairings are tough, so choose the best wine you can.
Actually: For the home cook, better results often can be achieved by working backward.
Start with a dish in mind and taste the wine,
then tweak the recipe to fit the juice: more
black pepper on the meat for an Aussie
shiraz, a bit of corn in the seafood bisque for a buttery chardonnay.
Conventional wisdom: When cooking, any old wine will do.
Actually: Only use a wine you would drink. It's an ingredient, and you
want the rest of the ingredients to be good,
right? Anoka native/Duxoup winemaker
Andy Cutter has the best rationale: "Never
use crummy wine while cooking, because all
it does is cook off the alcohol, and the only
thing good about crummy wine is the alcohol."
Bill Ward . bill.ward(a)startribune.com2
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Some familiar labels here and some new one.
C,
J
A valuable hunt: 20 great wines for under $20
Jon BonnéSunday, February 27, 2011
NV Avinyo Brut Reserva Cava 2009 Quinta do Feital Auratus Vinho Regional Minho 2009 Tahbilk Ngambie Lakes Marsanne 2009 Leitz Dragonstone Rheingau QbA Riesling More...
For a week, at least, let's suspend the use of the word "bargain."
What's a bargain, anyway? If you buy Dom Perignon by the case, then finding it at Costco might be a bargain to you. And if you're one of those (looking at you, Mr. Franzia) who believe no wine should exceed $10, you're probably sharpening your rant pencil right now. Maybe a store's 5-cent sale is your perfect bargain, but not if the wines on sale make you yawn. For years, The Chronicle used a $15 benchmark to denote a "bargain" wine.
Instead, let's talk about value. There's not nearly as much value as there should be in wine - and value itself is a dicey term when you dive into the depths of cheaply made mass-market wine. But there are many, many winemakers who still believe in value.
Value is about wine that over-delivers. Forget those hasty moments when a famous vineyard sells some fruit on the cheap. The real values to me are from talented winemakers who make great wine at a fair price.
And so, just in time to start planning for spring entertaining, I dived into a hunt for true value. I scoured the aisles of Bay Area wine shops. Could I find 20 of these wines under $20?
And how.
But it's not enough to have a one-off affordable hit. A great wine is a wine that performs vintage in and vintage out. So this list of 20 is meant as a buying guide that lasts beyond the season. All these wines have proved themselves over several vintages. Some have been great values for a decade or more - so I didn't even include vintages.
In short, these are what I call bank wines: They're bulletproof choices. So stop worrying for the moment about bargains, and embrace great value.
Marietta Cellars Old Vine Red ($11)
Tastes like: $20
What: An ever-dependable table red that outshines its nonvintage roots.
Why: Geyserville-based Chris Bilbro and his sons uphold a simple, if rare, prospect - that wine should be good, simple and affordable without being bland. Their Zinfandel-based blend, usually from Sonoma and Mendocino sources, is always released in nonvintage lot numbers (currently No. 53, with a brambly Zin profile that's accented by dry herbs from the rest of the blend), and what it lacks in long-term structure, it more than accommodates in friendly, soft fruit. Fulfilling and generous, the Old Vine Red has won fans for nearly 30 years by never pretending to be more than it is. Score one for honesty.
Chateau Ducasse Bordeaux Blanc ($15)
Tastes like: $33
What: Nuanced white Bordeaux in modest clothing
Why: Herve Dubourdieu more than upholds the family reputation for amazing whites - brother Denis is an enology professor and Bordeaux winemaking maestro. Herve harnesses property in Barsac, in the Sauternes area, for this classic dry white - a proper mix of Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Muscadelle. It's the Semillon's figgy richness - and Dubourdieu's talents, which can also be seen in the spendier white Graves, Graville-Lacoste - that elevate Ducasse, providing fruit-driven opulence. For something richer than stark Sauvignon Blanc and more distinct than tarted-up Chardonnay, this shows how true talent shines at every level. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
La Sibilla Campei Flegrei Falanghina ($18)
Tastes like: $30
What: An authentic, mineral-packed take on Campanian white
Why: Luigi di Meo and his family preside over their parcel in the Campei Flegrei, a massive caldera just outside Naples with soils so sandy that the vine louse phylloxera never took hold, allowing for ungrafted vines. While Falanghina is at the core of southern Italian trends, this is Falanghina like you never had; it might be one of the saltiest wines you'll encounter - in a good way (think pink sea salt), balanced by juicy apple and orange. A pure expression of a unique site, channeled without fashionable winemaking or oak. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)
Nigl Freiheit Kremstal Gruner Veltliner ($19)
Tastes like: $29
What: Quintessential Gruner Veltliner from a master
Why: Martin Nigl holds remarkable sway in Austrian wine; his Gruner shows the potential of the Kremstal region and his Privat Riesling is a standard-bearer. The Freiheit is just a bit more accessible and younger-drinking, often with a pink grapefruit presence amid Gruner's grass aromas. This is deep, terroir-driven stuff - a world away from the gulpable 1-liter bottles but easy to open without needing time to mellow. (Importer: Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
Yalumba Y Series South Australia Viognier ($11)
Tastes like: $26
What: Viognier that actually tastes like Viognier
Why: Great Viognier is a tough proposition. It easily becomes so sugary that most examples drown in an excess of honeysuckle and nectar. But Eden Valley-based Yalumba, one of Australia's historic wineries (founded in 1849), has made a cottage industry out of solid, delicious Viognier that escapes the grape's excesses. At a time when Australian wine - especially cheaper stuff - is absolutely in the doghouse, the Hill-Smith family finesses a wine that far outpaces its price tag. (Importer: Negociants USA)
Quinta do Feital Auratus Vinho Regional Minho ($16)
Tastes like: $25
What: If the Incredible Hulk drank Vinho Verde
Why: Galicia may be the land of Albarino, but young winemaker Marcial Dorado looked across the border into Portugal in his quest for an extraordinary example. Then he blended in the native Trajadura grape, the backbone of most Vinho Verde. The result is Auratus, which has the base material of Vinho Verde but is a serious, texturally dense wine. Yet it retains vibrancy and herbal punch, making it one of the most consistently versatile whites for the price. (Importer: The Rare Wine Co.)
Leitz Dragonstone Rheingau QbA Riesling ($16)
Tastes like: $27
What: Top Riesling in a modest package from a German star
Why: Johannes Leitz has made a name as one of the Rheingau's modern talents. He could easily take the fruit from his holdings in the steep Rudesheimer Drachenstein vineyard and make it fancy, but he wants Americans to drink Riesling. And so: Dragonstone. If many entry-level German Rieslings pander, Dragonstone is a grown-up wine, with far more in the bottle than the price lets on. Its fully dry brother, Eins Zwei Dry, is an equally great deal. (Importer: Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines)
Calera Central Coast Chardonnay ($16)
Tastes like: $30
What: An unbeatable Chardonnay with classic California lines
Why: Josh Jensen's label outside Hollister needs no introduction to the Golden State faithful. But he's always made an affordable range of Central Coast wines with the same care as he shows in his long-aging Mt. Harlan estate bottles. Aside from a bit less new oak, the only real difference between this and the Mount Harlan Chardonnay is the fruit - which here comes from a mix of Monterey and Santa Clara County sites. The ripeness and mineral power might not hit the heights of Mt. Harlan's power, but otherwise, the native yeasts, the barrel fermentation - all the same. And it's bottled under the Calera name, a sign of Jensen's belief in the quality of his wines.
Meyer-Fonnéielles Vignes Alsace Pinot Blanc ($16)
Tastes like: $24
What: A smoky, evocative Alsace white from an unheralded name
Why: Amid the well-established labels (Zind-Humbrecht, Ostertag) that have filtered through Kermit Lynch's book, Meyer-Fonnés a recent and welcome discovery. Their Pinot Blanc shows off the best of that grape, with ripe apple and blanched almond, just rich enough for the generous, fatty flavors of Alsatian food (put it with pork chops) but with a focus that some more ambitious Alsace efforts lack. Here's to the new guy. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
Broadside Margarita Vineyard Paso Robles Cabernet ($19)
Tastes like: $35
What: Fantastically drinkable Cabernet with no makeup
Why: Berkeley-based Chris Brockway keeps making the case for great everyday Cabernet with this bottle. Sourced from the limestone-rich Margarita site in southern Paso Robles, originally developed by the Mondavis, this is nuanced Cab packed with rich cherry and dried tobacco, surprisingly structured for the price. Naturally fermented and made in older oak, it's a tribute to the fruit of Cabernet rather than the trimmings.
Avinyo Brut Reserva Cava ($16)
Tastes like: $28
What: Cava to remind you why you love the stuff
Why: There's too much cheap Cava in the world, but here's one from someone who cares. Namely the Nadal family of Penedes, who blend the classic mix of Parellada, Xarello and Macabeo from free-run juice into a sublime bottle that gets about 20 months on the lees for a mineral-packed set of bubbles. At 6 g/l dosage, it's more edgy than much Champagne, which might explain why it's a frequent site at savvier restaurants. It's easy to find cheap, mediocre Cava, but Avinyo exists in a different world. (Importer: De Maison Selections)
Tahbilk Ngambie Lakes Marsanne ($14)
Tastes like: $30
What: A prime example of this Rhone-native grape from one of the world's oldest sources
Why: I keep thinking the Tahbilk folks will wake up and realize what they've been doing. One of Australia's oldest wineries (1860) situated in the Ngambie Lakes region of Victoria, north of Melbourne, it hosts some of the oldest Marsanne plantings in existence, dating to 1927. Inconceivably, this wine (which uses some younger vines) lands on the shelf for under $15. If Marsanne can be wound up in its youth, theirs is fleshy and generous - think yellow pear and guava - without giving up a powerful mineral core and classic chlorophyll accents. Another of those conversion whites. (Importer: Epic Wines)
Chateau Musar Musar Jeune ($17)
Tastes like: $31
What: A young-drinking bottle from one of the world's great estates
Why: The wines of Chateau Musar, Lebanon's finest winery, have tremendous staying power. They're not cheap. But Serge Hochar - who believes Musar shouldn't be touched before 15 years - also releases a table wine that shows every bit of this legendary's property's potential. There's more Cinsault in this blend (plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignane), making for a distinctly fruity, strawberry-filled bottle - but with plenty of leathery Musar gravitas. All the prowess of Musar in an unoaked, happy-go-lucky package. (Importer: Broadbent Selections)
Guimaro Ribeira Sacra Tinto ($16)
Tastes like: $32
What: One of the world's most distinctive reds for the money
Why: Spain's Ribeira Sacra is like a wine land from another age - its ancient vineyards rising precipitously on the banks of the river Sil. Pedro Rodriguez is one of the young vintners reviving the region, and his Guimaro wines show the best of the Mencia grape: hints of smoky chile and celery seed with beautifully tart fruit. Guimaro's rare B1P bottle could easily channel a spicier premier cru Burgundy, but here you can access the timelessness of the region's vineyards channeled through modern stainless-steel winemaking. Downright addictive. (Importer: Vinos & Gourmet)
Gruet New Mexico Brut Rose ($15)
Tastes like: $28
What: Stellar sparkling wine from an improbable place
Why: Gruet has a solid enough following that the "So there's this bubbly from New Mexico" hook no longer impresses. The Gruet family makes the wines in true Champagne-style fashion; the Rose receives two years aging in bottle - almost unheard of for a $15 wine. While the standard Brut has its ups and downs, the pink, made entirely from Pinot Noir with color coming from a small portion left on skins, is consistently great. It makes the dream of weeknight bubbles an affordable reality.
Foxglove Central Coast Chardonnay ($14)
Tastes like: $30
What: A terrific second label from top California talents
Why: Bob and Jim Varner could easily rest on the quality of their Varner estate Chardonnays from the Santa Cruz Mountains. Instead, they work even harder to finesse their Foxglove label, sourced from a range of Central Coast sources, mostly around Paso Robles. The Foxglove Chardonnay is always unoaked, allowing its ripe tree fruit to step forward; Bob Varner views it more as a white Rhone-style wine than traditional Chardonnay. Whatever works - here's access to some of the state's best winemaking at a price that serves as a valuable lesson about true talent.
Evesham Wood Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($18)
Tastes like: $31
What: Serious Oregon Pinot for a blink-twice price
Why: This tiny Salem-based label, founded by Russ and Mary Raney in 1986, has always been a semi-secret choice for those who want real Oregon drinking without an overabundance of winemaking. The blend takes in a range of Willamette Valley sites (the 2009 is all from the Eola-Amity Hills area) but always shows off a lighter, aromatic style of Pinot. It's a tribute to keeping Pinot affordable even amid its star shot. Though the Raneys sold last summer to Erin and Jordan Nuccio, I expect that Evesham will continue as one of those wise insiders' bets.
Jean-Paul Brun Domaine des Terres Dorees L'Ancien Beaujolais ($16)
Tastes like: $27
What: Beaujolais that makes a case for the beauty of humility
Why: All the traction nowadays is in cru Beaujolais, but Brun attempts something different. This hails from his chalky property in Charnay, just outside Lyons, farther south than the crus and earning a simple "Beaujolais" label. The quality-minded Brun makes crus as well, but he wants this to be a calling card for Beaujolais' potential. So it receives tremendous care, fermented with indigenous yeasts and bottled with a minimum of sulfur dioxide. In the glorious 2009 vintage, Terres Dorees was a can't-miss. But it shines every vintage - a reminder that a great Beaujolais producer should care about quality at every level. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections)
Domaine des Escavailles Les Sablieres Cotes du Rhone Rouge ($14)
Tastes like: $27
What: A Rhone red that transcends its label
Why: Gilles Ferran runs his family's property in the ascendant southern Rhone towns of Rasteau and Cairanne, plus Roaix. This Grenache-dominant bottle is mostly from sandier soils in Rasteau, but the simple table-wine appellation keeps the price down - even as fancier villages like Gigondas and Vacqueyras head toward the $30 mark. While Cotes du Rhone aren't the value they once were, here's a reminder of what they can still deliver. (Importer: Jeff Welburn Selections)
Pine Ridge California Chenin Blanc-Viognier ($14)
Tastes like: $20
What: A unique blend from a popular Napa name
Why: This has been a familiar enough sight on shelves for more than a decade that it feels like there's not serious winemaking afoot. But to finesse this unexpected mix of two white grapes from the Sacramento River delta takes talent. At a time when Chardonnay was king, Pine Ridge's blend proved the appetite for fresh, aromatic, low-alcohol whites. And it keeps proving that point, with the current 2010 release in fantastic form.
Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or @jbonne on Twitter.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/02/27/FDOU1HSA9F.DTL
This article appeared on page H - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Dear friends,
Jancis Robinson's web site reports today on an e-mail she received from David Lloyd of Australia's Eldridge Estate winery, who was chair of this past weekend's Mornington Peninsula (Australia) International Pinot Noir Celebration. Mr. Lloyd reported that at this event, only three non-European wineries showed wine with conventional bark corks. (This is not surprising news; screw caps are ubiquitous on Australian and NZ wines.) He also reported that the corked bottle count among the Burgundies was 20 out of 185 (10.8%). This at an event at which the featured Burgundy producers were DRC, de Montille, and Serafin. My personal take on this -- I don't claim to be unbiased on this subject -- is that even at the level of the elite producers, and even among what were (presumably) current release wines for the most part, Burgundians just don't give a darn about a failure rate exceeding one bottle per case. Everybody is lining up to buy their wines anyhow. Caveat emptor if you're out there looking for 2009's to buy, or shopp ing for bargains among prior vintages.
Don't forget to have some rose bubbly in honor of Valentine's Day!
Best regards,
Russ
FYI
from NYTimes
February 1, 2011
Ready for the Next Argentine Invasion?
By ERIC ASIMOV
TORRONTÉ has been touted as the hottest thing to arrive from Argentina since the tango. Or at least since malbec. It.s a grape, and a white wine, and some say it will be as popular in the United States as pinot grigio.
Well, one day, perhaps. But first things first. Have you even heard of torronté The grape is grown pretty much nowhere else in the world but Argentina. Yes, Spain also has a grape called torronté but the two grapes are apparently unrelated. The Argentine grape has been shown genetically to be a hybrid of the muscat of Alexandria and the criolla, or mission, as it.s known in English.
The ancestry of the torrontéis interesting only in that it most definitely bears more than a passing resemblance to the gloriously fragrant muscat. The best torrontéare highly aromatic, exuberantly floral with a rich, hothouse citrus scent as well. Dip your nose into a glass, and you don.t know whether it ought to be sold as a wine or a perfume.
Argentina has a talent for obscure grapes. It took the malbec, a red grape that is forgotten in Bordeaux, overlooked in Cahors and known as côn the Loire Valley, and turned it into a juicy, fruity, money-generating phenomenon identified purely with Argentina. Can torrontébecome malbec.s white counterpart?
Indeed, in 2010, Argentina exported more than 231,000 cases of torrontéto the United States, according to Wines of Argentina, a trade group. That figure may seem minuscule next to the 3.15 million cases of Argentine malbec the United States received that year. But compared with the mere 29,333 cases of torrontéexported to the United States in 2004, the growth has been remarkable.
Given the rate of the torrontéonslaught, the wine panel felt compelled recently to taste through 20 bottles. We could easily have done 50, given the sheer amount of wine out there. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Brett Feore, the beverage director at Apiary in the East Village, and Carla Rzeszewski, the wine director at the Breslin and the John Dory Oyster Bar on West 29th Street.
It was clear right away that torrontéhas issues of identity. These wines were all over the stylistic map. Some were indeed dry, light-bodied and crisp, like pinot grigios. Others were broad, heavy and rich, like ultra-ripe California chardonnays.
This may be a problem. All genres of wine have their stylistic deviations, but consumers can often read the cues. Chablis is a chardonnay that one can reasonably assume will be lean and minerally, without oak flavors. One would likewise expect a California chardonnay to be richer, and oaky flavors would not surprise. Of course, exceptions exist, often from labels that have been around long enough to establish an identity of their own. But torrontéhas no clear identity, not yet at least, and the unpredictable nature of what.s in the bottles will not help.
Wherever the wines landed on the spectrum, we found that their level of quality depended on one crucial component: acidity. Whether light or heavy, if the wines had enough acidity they came across as lively and vivacious. The rest landed with a thud, flaccid, unctuous and unpleasant.
Florence had other issues with the wines. .Some were concentrated, but finished with a kind of watery emptiness,. she said. .And often, the nose and the palate were not on speaking terms.. That is to say, the aromas often did not signal clearly how the wines would taste.
So, what did we like? Those beautiful aromas . or as Brett put it, .floral, mandarin, muscat, nice!. Carla found a touch of bitterness in some wines, which she very much appreciated.
Just to make torrontéa little more complicated, it turns out the grape in Argentina has three sub-varieties: the torrontéRiojano, the best and most aromatic, which comes from the northern province of La Rioja and Salta; the less aromatic torrontéSanjuanino, from the San Juan province south of La Rioja; and the much-less aromatic torrontéMendocino, from the Mendoza area, which . fasten your seat belts . may not be related to the other two at all.
While I would never want to assume which sub-variety was used, we did find a geographical correlation. Of the 20 bottles in the tasting, 11 were from Salta and other northern provinces. Eight were from Mendoza, and one was from San Juan. But of our top 10, seven were from the north, including our top four. Only three were from Mendoza, and they tended to be more subdued aromatically.
Our No. 1 wine, and our best value at $15, was the 2009 Cuma from Michel Torino, from the Cafayate Valley in Salta. With plenty of acidity, the Cuma was fresh and lively, which made its aromas of mandarin and cantaloupe vibrant rather than heavy. Likewise, our No. 2, the 2009 Alamos from Catena, also from Salta, was thoroughly refreshing with aromas of orange blossoms.
The story was similar for Nos. 3 and 4, both from Salta, too. The 2010 Crios de Susana Balbo was fragrant with melon and citrus, and well balanced, as was the 2009 TomáAchál Nóe, which had an added herbal touch. By contrast the No. 5 Norton Lo Tengo and the No. 6 Goulart, both from Mendoza, were far more reticent aromatically though pleasing and balanced enough.
At this stage in the evolution of torrontéquite a bit of experimentation is still going on. Some wines are clearly made in steel tanks, which accentuates the fresh, lively aromas. Others may have been briefly aged in oak barrels, adding depth and texture to the wines. Thankfully, we found very little evidence of new oak in our tasting.
For my part, I was encouraged by the wines we liked best, particularly our top five. Their aromatic exuberance is singular and pleasing, with the caution that the wines ought to be consumed while young. As for comparisons to pinot grigio, they seem both premature and misleading. The big-selling pinot grigios are so indistinct that they offend no one but those seeking distinctive wines. Torronté on the other hand, are quite unusual, which confers on them the power to offend. In wine, that.s often a good thing.
Tasting Report
BEST VALUE
Michel Torino Cuma, $15, ***
Cafayate Valley Torronté2009
Fresh and lively with depth, presence and flavors of orange and cantaloupe. (Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Catena Alamos, $14, ***
Salta Torronté2009
Fragrant and refreshing with aromas of flowers and citrus. (Alamos U.S.A., Hayward, Calif.)
Crios de Susana Balbo, $13, ** ½
Salta Torronté2010
Well balanced with lingering flavors of mandarin and honeydew. (Vine Connections, Sausalito, Calif.)
TomáAchál Nóe, $17, ** ½
Cafayate Valley Torronté2009
Light-bodied and balanced with floral aromas and orange and herbal flavors. (Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York)
Norton Lo Tengo, $11, ** ½
Mendoza Torronté2009
Full-bodied but fresh and balanced with flavors of citrus and tropical fruit. (Tgic Importers, Woodland Hills, Calif.)
Goulart, $14, **
Mendoza Torronté2009
Subtle and restrained with flavors of minerals, melon and herbs. (Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, Calif.)
Coloméalchaquíalley, $12, **
Torronté2009
Balanced and pleasing with flavors of peaches, flowers and citrus. (The Hess Wine Collection, Napa, Calif.)
La Yunta Famatina Valley, $10, **
La Rioja Torronté2010
Straightforward with orange and herbal flavors. (SWG Imports, Bend, Ore.)
San Telmo Esencia, $15, **
Mendoza Torronté2009
Flavors of melon and citrus but a bit heavy. (Diageo Chateau & Estate Wines, Napa, Calif.)
Terrazas de los Andes, $21, **
Reserva Salta Torronté2008
Aromas of ripe oranges and flowers but a touch hot. (MoëHennessy, New York)
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
>From the SFGC.
2006 Barolo: The Chronicle recommends
Jon BonnéSunday, January 9, 2011
Left-right: 2006 Guido Porro Barolo, 2006 Mauro Veglio Ba... Left-right: 2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo, 2006 Vietti Barolo Left-right: 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo, 2006 Ettore Germano ...
Has northern Italy's most regal wine retrenched from its love affair with modern winemaking? We were on the lookout for evidence as we tasted about two dozen 2006 Barolos.
That vintage should now be on shelves after the region's mandatory three-year aging requirements, yet many wines remain unreleased, prompting us to wonder if there's a bit of a Barolo back stock.
2006 was a year for classicists. We found less oak and more classic flavors in the glass, though the wine's profound Nebbiolo signature - earthy, floral, full of transparent fruit and knotted tannin - wasn't as evident as in two recent benchmark vintages, 2004 and 2001.
But there was plenty to enjoy, especially in basic bottlings under $50, which was heartening. Barolo has fallen prey of late to both price spikes and an obsession with single-parcel bottlings that signal how completely Barolo has been mainstreamed.
If a return to tradition signals a wider range of bottles - for both short-term drinking and long aging - it's a welcome step toward the past.
2006 Mauro Veglio Barolo ($36):
This historic La Morra property made a commitment to a more modern approach in 1992; that has tapered somewhat, though the presence of new wood is forward here. Still, it's hard to resist the great expressive nose in this basic bottling - dried mint, asphalt, rose, conifer and raspberry. Flavors are more subdued, but there's potential in a couple years as the oak is absorbed. (Importer: Wine Warehouse)
2006 Giacomo Grimaldi Barolo ($42):
This Barolo estate was re-established in 1996 by Giacomo's son Ferruccio, and this entry-level effort is wonderfully earthy, if slightly closed right now, with kirsch, dust and rose pollen, and bright strawberry fruit. Big and structural, but the tannins and the fruit are in great balance. A leathery, anise-spiked finish hints at a good decade of potential. (Importer: Banville & Jones)
2006 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo ($85):
The work continued by Bartolo's daughter Maria Teresa remains a pinnacle of Barolo, never more than in a stoic vintage. If Mascarello wines can be standoffish as kids, this is already evocative, with fresh roses, ginger root, a subtle tar presence, bouillon and bright orange-rind highlights, all stitched together with rich cherry and kirsch flavors. Delicious, timeless stuff, surprisingly ready, but with what one panelist called a "violin-string" tension and a ton of structure for aging. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections)
2006 Guido Porro Vigna Lazzairasco Barolo ($39):
Porro, based in Serralunga d'Alba, hews to a notably traditional style; this is Barolo as a snapshot of a recent past, from a south-southeast facing site. An immediately pretty dusty and caramelized orange-peel character, with a savory beef-jerky presence amid leathery black cherry fruit. Buoyant and fresh. A Barolo without guilt - not for a long-term wait, but a great deal for the next six to eight years. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant)
2006 Cordero di Montezemolo Monfalletto Barolo ($42):
The Monfalletto property was one of few in the commune of La Morra that left an impression this time. Aged in a mix of oak, it splits the difference between traditional and modern styles, with results that might spur debate. Properly tarry and tangy - toasted coriander and tangerine, green olive and sweet cherry. But it's surprisingly polished, making it approachable while not sacrificing its stoic guts. (Importer: Wine Warehouse)
2006 Ettore Germano Prapo Barolo ($70):
>From Sergio Germano's south-facing parcel just below his Serralunga winery, this is undeniably stylish, forward Barolo - a successful take on a modern style. Lots of rich vanilla accents to edgier lemon rind, apricot and mineral scents. The fruit is rich and deep, and the tannins classically strong. Should be plenty approachable within a couple years. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)
2006 Elio Grasso Gavarini Chiniera Barolo ($90):
Grasso works the steep slopes of Monforte, and this muscular Barolo aged in large Slavonian barrels is a high-wire act - stylish, but with lots of tannic austerity. Aromas of spice box, balsam, clay, mandarin orange and cranberry, with a minty herbal kick. Grasso's gorgeous Ginestra Casa Mate ($90) is a touch more approachable right now. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines)
2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo ($130):
Luca Currado's effort from 45-year-old vines in his native Castiglione remains a Barolo benchmark, aged in Slovenian oak casks for 32 months. A rich cola-like and nutmeg presence, and a tamarind edge, bring depth to the fresh rose and woodsy accents. Deep, extracted and fancy, it's still got lots of classic stuffing - raspberry high tones, black cherry opulence and a vibrancy that remains through rich espresso tones. (Importer: Dalla Terra)
Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Ceri Smith, owner, Biondivino; Wolfgang Weber, Chronicle contributor.
Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com and @jbonne on Twitter.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2011/01/09/FDJ11H3SSU.DTL
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
>From the NY Times
January 31, 2011
A Home Treatment Kit for Super Bowl Suffering
By BENEDICT CAREY
Every year scientists report that watching the Super Bowl is somehow unhealthy, even dangerous. Large bowls of snacks encourage overeating. Traffic accidents may increase after the game, too.
This year, a study in the journal Clinical Cardiology released on Monday warns that a loss by the hometown team in the big game leads to .increased deaths in both men and women, and especially older patients.. One of the authors said in a press release that .stress reduction programs or certain medications might be appropriate in individual cases..
Therapists in Wisconsin and Pennsylvania are prepared. Most have seen plenty of people who suffer from what could be called Football Attention Neurosis (F.A.N.), in their practices, in their living rooms, and sometimes in the mirror.
.The belief that these patients have is that the world will end if the Steelers . uh, I mean, their team loses,. said Mark Hogue, a psychologist at Northshore Psychological Associates in Erie, Pa., who owns a trunkload of Pittsburgh Steelers paraphernalia, including a Snuggie. .As a therapist, you need to take that fear seriously..
.Many patients, it needs to be said, will be self-medicating,. said Ursula Bertrand, a psychologist in private practice in Green Bay, Wis. .This can be helpful, but in excess it can also make anxiety attacks more likely..
The causes of those attacks are very specific to the fan.s team, experts said.
A patient with an attachment to, for instance, the Green Bay Packers may be especially symptomatic if he or she sees the team.s quarterback running unprotected with the ball, especially if that quarterback has suffered previous concussions. The same patient might also suffer heart palpitations .whenever the Packers go out to receive a punt,. said Bradley C. Riemann, director of the Obsessive-Compulsive Disorder Center and cognitive-behavioral therapy services at Rogers Hospital in Oconomowoc, Wis., who has tickets to the Super Bowl and often travels to follow the Packers.
In contrast, a patient with an attachment to, for example, the Steelers might experience stabs of panic whenever he or she sees the team.s offensive line try to protect its quarterback from a surging defense. .They.ve had so many injuries on the line that it can be very hard to watch. for the patient, said Sam Knapp, a psychologist in Harrisburg, Pa., who records every Steelers game and watches only the victories.
Clearly, there.s a need for guidelines to deal with such patients. The following are derived from years of observations in the field and conversations with hundreds of sufferers of F.A.N. No licensed professional had, or would have, anything to do with them. They are the therapy version of fantasy football.
However, unlike many medical interventions, you can try these at home.
Treatment Guidelines
Football Attention Neurosis
I. Establishing a Therapeutic Alliance (Pregame)
Patients often arrive on the couch well before kickoff, agitated and highly resistant to treatment. Proceed with care. Attempts at small talk or queries about their mental well-being may at first be met with an irritated stare, a gesture toward the flat screen and insensitive remarks like .Do you mind?. or .The game.s about to start, O.K.?.
This is the disorder talking, not the person.
It also provides an opportunity to establish trust, by sitting with the sufferer and his or her feelings. A strong alliance is essential going forward, because it is often the case that treatment will involve asking the patient to do things that may be frightening or profoundly uncomfortable, like sitting quietly with eyes open as an erratic kicker attempts a late field goal.
II. Evaluating the Severity of Impairment (First Half)
The severity of the disorder will usually reveal itself early in the first half of the football contest. Some patients will exhibit physical symptoms, including flushing, heart palpitations, chest pain, even a choking sensation, when their team chokes. Others may show psychological signs, like disorientation, a numbed trancelike state, or disordered vocalizations like .What the...,. .How in the name of...,. .Oh, lord, no..
.Tell me that didn.t just happen!. is another characteristic rhetorical reaction to an undesired play in the contest, almost always followed by this remark: .I can.t watch this anymore..
Caution: Do not approach patients in these moments. They are fragile and prone to hurling nearby objects, including mini-bagels, plastic cups, pigs in a blanket . even themselves, in extreme cases, to the floor.
The time to complete the assessment is during commercial breaks, which are frequent and lengthy. Be sure to determine the family history (sample question: .Was your mother buried in a Reggie White jersey?.) and to make a careful review of medications, including nutritional supplements, prescriptions and a rough count of the 40-ounce malt liquor cans arranged like a mini-Stonehenge around the couch.
III. Formulating a Treatment Plan (Halftime)
Patients ritually leap to their feet and disappear at halftime. This break allows the therapist time to develop an intervention for the second half, when symptoms are most severe and disabling. The goals of treatment are the same for all patients: to reduce anxiety, to eliminate avoidance behaviors, to soothe physical symptoms like sleep loss, chronic groaning and cursing at the TV and the pets. Yet each individual suffers at different times and for different reasons, and the treatment plan must be tailored accordingly.
IV. Administering Therapy (Second Half)
The first commercial break after the second-half kickoff is the time to explain to the patient that his or her suffering is rooted in cognitive misconstruals, automatic assumptions that do not stand up to scrutiny.
For example, beliefs like a player .always fumbles. or .never makes late kicks. or .couldn.t cover my grandmother. represents an overestimate of risk. Each player is competent; each has succeeded in the past; all could cover Grandma, even on a slippery field.
Likewise, the notion that world will end if the patient.s team loses . catastrophizing, as this sort of thinking is known . does not stand up to the evidence. Remind the patient: Life resumed after each previous loss that the team suffered. And, in time, taste returned to food, colors became visible, feeling returned to extremities.
Breathing exercises are highly recommended and become increasingly important as the football contest nears the fourth quarter, when events on the field are likely to prompt strong physiological reactions, like a pounding heart, hyperventilation, even dizziness. These internal cues, as they.re called, can escalate the feeling of panic, a self-reinforcing cycle resulting in groans and cries that can be frightening to small children, pets and sometimes neighbors.
In the final minutes of the game, be forewarned: Many patients will move beyond the reach of therapy. Their faces may change, their breathing appear to stop. Researchers have not determined whether this state is closer to Buddhist meditation or to the experience of freefall from an airplane. All that is known is that, once in it, patients will fall back on primal coping methods, behaviors learned in childhood within the cultural context of their family.
Like emitting screams. Or leaping in an animated way, as if the floor were on fire. Or falling on their back and moving their arms and legs like an overturned beetle, in celebratory fashion.
Important note to therapist: At this point, if you are rooting for the same team as the patient, it will not violate ethical standards to join in.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Dear friends,
Farr Vintners is a substantial London-based wine trader. They have reported
2010 sales of £169 million, more than double their 2009 sales volume. The
2010 sales figure includes almost £63 million of 2009 Bordeaux futures. The
far East in total, which would of course include Japan, Singapore, etc., in
addition to China, was 36% of their business by volume (gallonage) and 49%
of their business by value. Like several other sources, they are
recommending sell while the bubble is full if you happen to have any
Lafite in your cellar. Details on the free portion of Jancis Robinsons
website:
http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a20110103.html
Cheers and Happy New Year
Russ
Merry Christmas!
Aged tawny, the lighter side of port
By Dave McIntyre
Special to The Washington Post
Tuesday, December 21, 2010; 12:27 PM
Second of two parts
Come here: Let me tell you a secret. Three little words that will win you the respect of wine lovers and help you understand why we seem capable of talking about nothing else.
Aged. Tawny. Port.
As I write this, I'm savoring Dow's 20-Year-Old Tawny, holding my glass up to the computer screen so the light shines through the last amber swirl of wine in the bowl. Its aromas suggest dried orange peel, clove, cardamom and pine. Do you like the smell of Christmas? Then aged tawny is for you.
Aged tawny is the opposite of vintage port. Vintage is aged in cask for only two years before bottling, with minimal exposure to oxygen. It is meant to age for years and even decades in the bottle (in your cellar after you pay for it, mostly) before it sheds its tannins and unfurls an exotic compote of dried fruits. Aged tawny is what the name suggests: It's mature, ready to drink as soon as you buy it.
Aged in 600-liter casks called pipes, the wine is drawn off, or racked, into large vats once a year so sediment can be removed, then returned to the pipes. In the process, about 3 percent of the wine is lost: some in the discarded sediment, the rest - the "angels' share" - to evaporation. Before the final blend is bottled (usually beginning six years after harvest), the pipes are topped off with younger and/or older wine, to balance the flavors and create a house style unaffected by vintage variation. (There is, of course, an exception to that practice; ports labeled "Colheita" are single-vintage aged tawnies.)
"The program is designed to create a product at the end that is independent of vintage quality, independent of temperature and humidity conditions in the intervening years while the wine aged," said Adrian Bridge, managing director of the Fladgate Partnership, which includes the port houses of Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft and Delaforce. "So in essence, we are not looking backward to the vintage conditions, but forward to the wine in the glass."
In an interview a few years ago, Bridge explained to me how aged tawny differs from vintage port. "Vintage port is rare, and we tend to drink it only on special occasions," he said. "Aged tawny, on the other hand, is lighter in style, which makes it more appealing in warmer weather, especially when served slightly chilled."
It was a late-spring interview, which explains Bridge's emphasis on warm weather. Since then, I have enjoyed aged tawny in all seasons, and though I agree that it tastes best when chilled, I find it ideal for dessert during cooler times. It pairs beautifully with apple pie, creme brulee, creamy cheeses, desserts based on nuts or dried fruits, and warm winter fires.
Tawny is aged in decades: 10 or 20 years old, mostly, but also 30 or 40. A 10-year-old tawny costs about $30, while 20-year-olds run close to $50. The difference between a 10 and a 20 is remarkable, as the dried-orange-peel and spice flavors become more pronounced. From 20 to 30, the gain is not really worth going up to $100 or more, while 40-year-olds are otherworldly in quality and price. The back label usually tells what year the wine was bottled, so you know how fresh it is.
As a gift-giving guide, if you love the person, buy a 10. If you really love him, get the 20. And if he has incriminating evidence that could ruin you, splurge on the 40. Some secrets, after all, are worth keeping hidden, while others, like aged tawny, should be shared.
food(a)washpost.com
Recommended aged tawny ports
Tuesday, December 21, 2010; 12:37 PM
In general, a 10-year-old tawny port will taste of roasted nuts, with some caramel and a hint of citrus and spice. A 20-year-old will emphasize dried citrus and exotic wood spice. Aged tawny can be savored over a few weeks: Keep the opened bottle in the refrigerator to preserve its freshness, and allow the wine to warm up somewhat before drinking. Aged tawny typically notes the bottling year on the back label; the more recent (within two or three years), the better.
Fonseca 20 Year Old
***
Portugal, $53
This really should be three stars with a rocket. Fonseca is a sister house of Taylor Fladgate, and the wines of both are made by David Guimaraens. Fonseca ports, however, tend to be more exuberant and lusty than the Taylors. The Fonseca 20 is seductive, with a lush palate and flavors of earth, wood, dried fig and tea. One sip of this, and life is good. If your store has only the 10 Year Old, don't hesitate to try it, but keep looking for the 20.
Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Calvert Woodley, Circle Wine & Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Martin's Wine & Spirits, Schneider's of Capitol Hill; on the list at CityZen, Kinkead's, Legal Seafoods, Morton's, Taberna del Alabardero.
Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old
***
Portugal, $53
Richer than most, the Taylor's 20 keeps a stiff upper lip of respectability, coated with caramel and orange and seasoned with cloves and cardamom. The 10 Year Old ($30, 2 stars) is more widely available in stores and restaurants, and is also terrific.
Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Ace Beverage, Bell Wine & Spirits, Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Continental Wine & Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Washington Wine & Liquor; on the list at 1789, Bourbon Steak, Cafe Milano, Charlie Palmer Steak, Morton's, Occidental Grille, many others.
Sao Pedro Aged 10 Years
* 1/2
Portugal, $35-$37
This wine comes in an attractive bottle that is reusable as a decanter, making it an extra-nice gift. Don't let the flashy packaging fool you: The wine is quite good, tasting of creme caramel, roasted cashews and spice.
M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Barrel House Liquors, Bloomingdale Liquor, Cairo Wine & Liquor, Mayfair Liquors, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits, Watergate Wine & Beverage. Available in Maryland at the Bottle Shop in Potomac; Frederick Wine House; Meridian Market and Wine and Montgomery Gourmet Beer & Wine in Bethesda; the Perfect Pour in Elkridge; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Pinky's West Street Liquors in Annapolis; Richburn Discount Liquors in Columbia; Rodman's in White Flint; Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; Sugarloaf Wine Cellar in Germantown; the Wine Shoppe in Waldorf. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and the Italian Store in Arlington; Balducci's locations in McLean and Alexandria; various Wegmans locations; Cork & Fork in Gainesville; Leesburg Vintner; Tastings and Round Hill Gourmet in Charlottesville; on the list at Julien's Cafe in Middleburg.
Dow's 20 Year Old
** 1/2
Portugal, $53
Dow's house style features an iodine, saline quality in both the 10- and 20-year-old tawnies, adding an intriguing note to the butterscotch and spicy citrus flavors.
Winebow: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Bacchus Wine Cellar, Barmy Wines & Liquors, Bell Wine & Spirits, Burka's Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Chat's Liquors, Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Georgetown Wine & Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, PanMar Wine & Liquor, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Pearson's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits, Tunnel Wines & Spirits; on the list at Againn, Bistro Bis, Bistro La Bonne, Brasserie Beck, Cashion's Eat Place, Chef Geoff's and Chef Geoff's Downtown, Corduroy, Founding Farmers, Hook, Mendocino Grille, Mie 'N' Yu, Nage, New Heights, Oyamel, Posto, Ripple, Ristorante Tosca, Ruth's Chris, Veritas, Vinoteca.
Barros 10 Years Old
**
Portugal, $32
Fresh and rich, with cinnamon, orange peel and roasted nuts. Barros also has a 2000 Colheita on the market ($36). Though the 10-year-old is probably mostly from the same vintage, the wines are quite different. The colheita is deeper and more idiosyncratic, even a bit awkward at first; it smooths out a day or two after opening.
Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Cork & Fork, Schneider's of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; on the list at Black's Bar & Kitchen in Bethesda. Available in Virginia at Whole Foods Market Springfield and Charlottesville; on the list at Columbus Grill and Espresso Cafe & Restaurant in Manassas.
Warre's Otima 10 Year Old
* 1/2
Portugal, $24-$30 (500 ml)
This widely available wine is a good introduction to aged tawny. Its two-thirds bottle means it's not really a bargain, even at the lower end of the price range, but 500 ml might be a more appropriate size for many drinkers. The Otima is dark and fully on the roasted-nuts side of the tawny flavor spectrum.
Vineyard Brands/Bacchus in the District and Maryland, Country Vintner in Virginia. Available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Best in Liquors, Circle Wine & Liquor, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Cork & Fork, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Pearson's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits; on the list at the Army and Navy Club, Jockey Club, Veritas, Zentan. Available in Maryland at Cork & Fork in Bethesda; Grape Expectations in Gaithersburg; Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville; Bin 604 Wine Sellers, Ole Federal Hill Liquors, Wine Source and Mt. Washington Wine Co. in Baltimore; Columbia Palace Wine and Spirits; Cranbrook Liquors in Cockeysville; Maryland Discount Beverage Center in Cumberland; Longmeadow Wine & Liquors in Hagerstown; Beltway Fine Wine & Spirits in Timonium; Bin 201 Wine Sellers in Annapolis; Riverside Liquor and Viniferous in Frederick; Hair o' the Dog in Easton; on the list at Raku in Bethesda; Chesapeake Wine Co. and Hopkins Deli in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Fern Street Gourmet and the Winery in Alexandria, the Wine Seller in Herndon, Norm's Beer & Wine in Vienna.
Key
*** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very Good
Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
Madeira: The Chronicle recommends
Jon BonnéSunday, December 19, 2010
Left-right: Leacock's Madeira, Justino's Madeira Old Rese... Left-right: Broadbent Madeira Terrantez Old Reserve, 1996... Left-right: 2000 Malvasia Madeira Barbeito Colheita Singl... Henriques and Henriques Rainwater Madeira (left) and Broa... More...
Our panel lineup of 32 Madeiras underscored that the overall quality of this other fortified Portuguese wine has rarely been better. These 14 all excelled, but outside of the cheaper 3-year-old efforts (often marked for cooking) you'll find it easy to discover very good Madeira on local shelves.
For once, there's no concern about whether it's freshly arrived. Because it is oxidized by its nature, Madeira has the benefit of being a survivor - able to evolve in the bottle for decades.
Though prices aren't cheap, it's worth remembering that most of these wines average at least a decade old; also that, once opened, they remain fresh for months. That makes them a perfect holiday gift - one that can be opened right away and enjoyed straight into summer.
Henriques & Henriques Rainwater ($22): The old-time Rainwater style (so named because casks of the 18th century versions were thought to have absorbed rainfall) remains hard to define; often it's forgettable, but the historic Henriques house has a fresh, floral version that brings just enough of Madeira's classic tang to be refreshing as an aperitif. (Importer: Europvin)
Leacock's 5 Year Old Full Rich ($24): Though John Leacock sailed for Madeira in 1741 and his family established one of the island's top shipping houses, this is now one of four brands under the umbrella of the Madeira Wine Co., established in 1925. The burnished color telegraphs rich caramel and sugarcane that matches its sweeter style, with a layered orange-peel tang. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
Broadbent Five Year Reserve Fine Rich ($25): Madeira authority Michael Broadbent turned to the house of Justino's Henriques to produce his namesake line. This five-year bottling is intensely fruited, with lemon peel and nectarine, plus a green accent - think mint leaf or pine - and a savory edge. (Importer: Broadbent Selections)
Vinhos Justino's Henriques 10 Year Old Reserve ($27): Justino's is a relative newcomer to Madeira, having been formed in 1870. But its profile is ascendent again. Here's a sister wine of sorts to the Broadbent Five-Year, made mostly from Tinta Negra Mole. A mouthwatering intensity - full of chestnut, orange peel, luxurious cocoa, apricot, with a profound iodine bite as counterpoint. (Importer: HGC Wines)
1996 Vinhos Justino's Henriques Colheita ($39): Colheitas are single-vintage Madeira, and here's a fine introduction, full of layered citrus (citron, Meyer lemon, tangelo) plus a distinct spicy side - nutmeg, peach and ginger. Just sweet enough to work with, or before, dessert. (Importer: HGC Wines)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series Charleston Sercial ($46.50): Importer Mannie Berk reached out to Ricardo Freitas, owner of the house of Barbeito, to produce his Historic Series line, which remains the best value in Madeira. This is the driest in the Historic lineup, made from the Sercial grape, and its slight austerity makes it remarkably versatile. Leathery and wound-up, with a salty mineral power - think of it with a holiday roast. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
Henriques & Henriques 10 Years Old Verdelho ($38): Henriques' true potential often shows up in its 10-year range, the sorts of bottles that you want to keep on a shelf for a regular sip. The rare Verdelho grape is just shy of fully dry, and there's just enough sweetness to bring out pineapple and butterscotch aromas that balance scents of dried flowers and pine bark. Lively and complex. (Importer: Europvin)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series New Orleans ($60): If you can choose just one bottle, this is the one. This year marks only the second time that New Orleans, made mostly from the virtually nonexistent Terrantez grape, has been released. It's almost meaty, full of scents of lobster mushroom, dried apple, quince and citron. Impressively dry in its character, with hints of robust, aged sweetness and a hearty wood character, like smelling a favorite oak chest. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
Broadbent Terrantez Old Reserve ($225): Broadbent harnesses old stocks of rare Terrantez for this exceptional treat. Intense and layered, with a tropical fruit edge to lemon and jasmine, plus menthol and apricot. Opulent but not thick-textured, with gorgeous brightness. (Importer: Broadbent Selections)
1997 Cossart Gordon Colheita Single Harvest Bual ($39): Cossart Gordon, arguably the oldest of the Madeira shippers and now another of the Madeira Wine Co. labels, is better known for its nonvintage wines, but this 1997 is full of briny tang - more than you'd expect for the somewhat sweet Bual. Lots of iodine and hazelnut, papaya and burnt orange, with an intense acidity to enliven it. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
1968 Blandy's Vintage Bual ($220): Blandy's, a key partner in the Madeira Wine Co., is probably the most established label from the island, with ample stocks to bottle this 42-year-old effort just six years ago after an intricate aging process. Full of dry honeycomb and peat moss-like scents, it's a fully evolved effort, with profound acidity matched to a dry woody character that speaks of its age. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series New York Malmsey ($46.50): The New York Malmsey (a.k.a. Malvasia) is the sweetest in the Historic Series lineup. Despite notes of roasted pineapple and agave nectar, it's packed with savory tones - winter melon and sea salt, with a raging acidity that balances the sweet profile, making it thoroughly versatile. Almost steely at its core. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
2000 Barbeito Single Cask 44a Malvasia ($54): Barbeito's Ricardo Freitas is pioneering another effort: the bottling of individual casks of Madeira, not unlike the Equipo Navazos endeavor in Jerez. Cask 44A showed an impressive evolution after a hot 2007 summer, prompting a decision to bottle it separately. Intense and fresh, full of iris and chamomile aromas, with darker mineral accents, sesame, pear and Seville orange. Racy and unique. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
1985 Blandy's Vintage Malmsey ($150): Bottled in 2009, this is a fine example of how a large house like Blandy's can excel with colheita (single-vintage) efforts. Though made from sweet Malmsey, it's perceptibly dry and mouthwatering, full of saline and cracker-crumb savory character, with citrus and subtle caramel. Lovely spice-box aromas round it out. There's also the more affordable 1994 Malmsey ($48). (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Andy Booth, wine buyer, The Spanish Table; Paul Einbund, wine director, Slanted Door Restaurant Group; Daniel O'Brien, wine and spirits director, Cavallo Point.
Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or twitter.com/jbonne.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/12/19/FD6U1GR6A7.DTL
This article appeared on page K - 9 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
