>From Vogue no less.
White wines can be tricky. Chardonnay is one of most popular ones on the
market today, but many people still find it to be a bit too “oaky.”
Sauvignon Blanc on the other hand, another top contender, is often
criticized for being a bit too “grassy.” No matter which white wine you
select—whether ordering for your table at a restaurant or serving it while
entertaining—there always appears to be someone who has something to say.
Enter a rising star in the white wine world, a near-foolproof crowdpleaser
that is neither too oaky nor too grassy: Chenin Blanc.
Originating in France’s Loire valley, Chenin Blanc is a grape that experts
praise for its extreme versatility, with any two varieties from any two
winemakers unlikely to be too similar. Depending on the winemaker’s recipe
and handling of the grapes, it can produce both dry and sweet wines,
sparkling and still wines, and varieties that range from $12 per bottle to
ultra-premium vintages that stretch into the hundreds of dollars.
“Sometimes I wonder what I can’t get from Chenin Blanc,” says Lauren
Schell, beverage director of Seaworthy in New Orleans and New York’s
favorite bar-on-a-sailboat Grand Banks. “It’s sort of all things to many
people—it can be dry or sweet, oaked or unoaked, still or sparkling… There
are so many iterations of it, that it really woos folks who are typically
diehard fans of other grapes, like Chardonnay.” In fact, Schell is making a
pretty substantial bet on Chenin Blanc; a sparkling variety from French
winemaker Jacky Blot will be featured as one of the house sparkling wines
at Grand Banks this summer.
Although the grape comes from France and the United States led the world in
acreage in the 1980’s, South Africa currently leads the world in
production, with the varietal resulting in over one-fifth of all vineyard
plantings, producing about half the world’s supply annually. It’s also been
the fastest-growing South African varietal in the United States in recent
years, up over thirty-five percent from five years ago. “I think it’s a fun
grape for wine drinkers to explore,” said a Wines of South Africa rep.
“South African Chenins can appeal to a wide range of fans - they have
enough body to appeal to Chardonnay drinkers, enough aromatic generosity to
make Sauvignon Blanc fans happy, and they’re still fresh, which is
important to Pinot Grigio drinkers.”
But you don’t have to fly to South Africa to sample the best Chenin Blancs.
Maison Pickle—a restaurant which recently opened on New York's Upper West
side—offers the wine as a pairing for shrimp dumplings, chicken francese,
and even their signature French dip sandwiches. “It’s a wonderful choice,”
says Maison Pickle wine director Guy Devereux. “It’s a versatile grape
which can be made in many different styles from dry to sweet and sparkling
to dessert wine. Its honeyed floral character distinguishes it from the
grassier Sauvignon Blanc and its zesty acidity sets it apart from the
butter notes of New World Chardonnays.”
It’s a wine that also sells quite a bit at Ai Fiori, another restaurant in
New York. Ai Fiori’s wine director Colin Thoreen shared that Chenin Blanc,
specifically the single appelation of Coulée de Serrant by Nicolas Joly,
was responsible for the rebirth of the biodynamic movement in the wine
world. “It’s an incredible grape,” said Thoreen. “Chenin Blanc has risen
the ranks of popularity around the world for its ability to suit many
palettes but also its ability to deliver an extremely high-quality product
at an approachable price point.”
So now that it finally feels like winter is melting away to spring and a
crisp, chilled glass of white wine feels appropriate, perhaps its time to
skip your tried-and-true Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs and consider
Chenin Blanc instead.
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James Ellingson cell 651 645 0753
Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave, Mpls, MN 55417
James(a)BrewingNews.com BeerGovernor(a)gmail.com
