win February 2013

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[wine] Ted Lemon: great dirt neither sentimental nor xenophobic

by Russell McCandless

For a transcript of Ted Lemon's (Littorai) extremely thought-provoking presentation to the recent Mornington Peninsula pinot noir convention, look here: http://blog.jjbuckley.com/2013/02/20/ted-lemon-on-noble-place-in-new-world-w inegrowing/ I would love to sit down with him over a couple of glasses of wine and find out what he means when he says we should not use Burgundy as a measuring stick - I think I disagree on that, although it certainly depends. How I might say something similar: when pinot diverges too far from the Burgundian model, we have a problem, although New World pinots are not better or less good based solely on how much they do or don't resemble Burgundy. Think Spring! Russ

12 years, 9 months

[wine] V-Day Carbonic Maserations

by Jim L. Ellingson

OK, it's V-Day Fizz... Oh, and the "Stars" aka "*" come through as "." on my mail tool. Enjoy. Vin and V-Day: Spend wisely By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, February 5, 4:06 PM As Moez Ben Achour approaches a table at Marcel.s, Robert Wiedmaier.s haute restaurant in the District.s West End, he is already assessing his clients. thirst. On Valentine.s Day, the sommelier knows his task can be even more challenging. .Everybody has already spent money on the gift, maybe even an engagement ring, and they are splurging on the food. So I know the bank will be low,. Ben Achour says. .They.re looking for a wine that offers romance and value, especially on the sparkling side.. Ben Achour.s recommendation for the budget-conscious romantic is a sparkling wine from Burgundy: the Michel Sarrazin Cremant de Bourgogne Ros�, made entirely from pinot noir grapes. While it doesn.t come from the Champagne region and cannot legally carry that prestigious name on its label, the wine is made in the same method as champagne. Cremant de Bourgogne is the insider.s secret in sparkling wines, because it often approaches champagne in quality without commanding the same price. And, of course, the Burgundians know a thing or two about pinot noir. Local sommeliers I spoke with about Valentine.s Day choices struck similar chords: bubbles for celebration, ros� for everyday romance, modestly priced picks for young lovers. Richard Dunham, who directs the wine program at L.Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls, one of the Washington region.s most romantic dining spots, suggests half-bottles to provide appropriate variety and set the mood. He.s bold enough to suggest a sweet champagne, such as the Veuve Clicquot Demi-Sec, to start the meal. .It pairs well with our appetizer of Roquefort cheese and caramelized apple,. Dunham says. For chateaubriand for two, he recommends a half-bottle of Shafer Merlot 2009 from Napa Valley. .Its supple elegance will have you gazing not only into the glass but at each other,. he says, as though he were pouring romance rather than wine. That meal for two would cost about $350. More-budget-minded diners could substitute two glasses each of Jean-Baptiste Adam Cremant d.Alsace, another French sparkling wine, and a 2009 Bordeaux with the whimsical name of Chateau Baby, and pay about $250. Scott Clime, wine and beverage director for the Passion Food Hospitality group . which includes DC Coast, Acadiana, District Commons and Passionfish, among others . also thinks of ros�: the Gruet Ros� non-vintage sparkling wine from New Mexico, which he describes as .a garnet-colored wine with a floral bouquet of strawberry, raspberry and cherry.. At $17 retail, it is a terrific value. He recommends an Argyle Riesling 2010 from Oregon and a Vina Cobos Malbec 2010 from Argentina . both at less than $20 a bottle retail . to round out the meal. If you.re dining at CityZen, sommelier Andy Myers might serve you sparkling wine at the end of the meal. .If the couple.s young, playful and romantic, I go for moscato d.Asti,. Myers says. .We will pour you a glass for your birthday or anniversary. It.s a great wine with dessert: sweet, and the alcohol.s not too high.. He recommends a moscato called Annalisa, which retails for a modest $12. Moscato needn.t be limited to the end of the meal, he notes: .My mom drinks a glass the minute she sits down.. Should you be dining at Plume in the Jefferson Hotel, sommelier Michael Scaffidi has splurge suggestions for the end of your Valentine.s meal. If all has gone well, opt for a glass of Madeira. If you are having the wine pairings with your menu, the Love Letters dessert will be paired with On the Wings of Dawn, a sweet wine from Austria made by Heidi Schroeck. The wine carries a double-entendre for lovers, Scaffidi warns: The name for this particular style of dessert wine, means .escape. in German. McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine. More from Food: Spirits Column Beer Column The Maderia voyage that starts downtown Sommelier-recommended Valentine.s Day wines Tuesday, February 5, 4:02 PM Recommendations ...Exceptional ..Excellent..Very Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Here are Valentine.s Day wine recommendations. Some are from the sommeliers I interviewed for my accompanying column, and some are from my own tastings. . Dave McIntyre Duval-Leroy Brut ..1 / 2 Champagne, France, $45 This perennial value was better than ever when I tasted it recently, brilliantly showing the tart red-fruit flavors of pinot noir and pinot meunier and the fleshiness of chardonnay. Prestige in the District and Maryland; Virginia Imports in Virginia: Available in the District at Cairo Wine & Liquor, Pearson.s. Available in Maryland at Cork 57 Beer and Wine in Bethesda; Dawson.s Market in Rockville; Graul.s Wine & Spirits, North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits and the Wine Source in Baltimore; Wine Cellars of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and Curious Grape in Arlington, Ashburn Wine Shop, Balducci.s and Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Cork & Fork in Gainesville, Out of Site Wines and Vienna Vintner in Vienna, Planet Wine & Gourmet and Unwined in Alexandria, various locations of Trader Joe.s and Wegmans, Virginia Fine Wines in Springfield, Whole Foods Market (Alexandria and Vienna), Wine Styles in Dumfries; on the list at Euro Bistro in Herndon, Willow in Arlington. Simonnet-Febvre Brut Ros� Cremant de Bourgogne .. Burgundy, France, $20 This producer, based in Chablis in northern Burgundy, is one of my favorites for value-oriented chardonnay and sparkling wines. The Brut Ros� shines with cherry and strawberry flavors. Its razor-sharp balance complements food and makes you ready for more. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Best in Liquors, Central Liquors, Congress Market, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, PanMar Wine & Liquor, Rodman.s, Sherry.s Fine Wine & Spirits, U Street Mini Mart, Watergate Wine & Beverage; on the list at Windows Cafe. Available in Maryland at Bethesda Co-Op in Cabin John, the Bottle Shop in Potomac, Bradley Food & Beverage and Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, Old Farm Liquors in Frederick, Rodman.s in White Flint, Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; on the list at Bistro Provence in Bethesda. Gruet Brut Ros� .1 / 2 New Mexico, $19 Gruet.s sparkling wines from New Mexico are an American treasure: top-notch fizz with real champagne character at an affordable price. The ros� is a good for a romantic interlude, and the entire lineup is worth exploring. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Pearson.s, Rodman.s, Wagshal.s Market, Whole Foods Market P Street, Yes! Organic Market. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Pine Orchard Wine in Ellicott City. Available in Virginia at Grape + Bean in Alexandria, Grateful Red Wine & Gift Shop in Arlington, Total Wine & More in McLean and Springfield, Whole Foods Market Fair Lakes. Annalisa Moscato d.Asti .1 / 2 Piedmont, Italy, $12 Bright, fruity, bubbly and sweet. What you don.t finish for dessert could go nicely with blueberry pancakes for brunch. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Lion.s Fine Wine & Spirits, Whole Foods Market P Street. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Wine and Beer in Bethesda, Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville, I.M. Wine in Fulton, the Perfect Pour in Elkridge. Available in Virginia at Slaters Market in Alexandria, Total Wine & More (Alexandria, McLean, Springfield), Wine House in Fairfax. Loredan Gasparini Casa Bianca Prosecco Ros� .1 / 2 Veneto, Italy, $11 This budget sparkler is a nice scene-setter: Its bubbles help set the mood, and the pink color, from 15 percent pinot noir in the blend, will sparkle in the candlelight. Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, A Litteri, Wagshal.s Market, Whole Foods Market (P Street, Tenleytown). Available in Maryland at Balducci.s and Bradley Food & Beverage in Bethesda, Urban Cellars in Baltimore, Sav-On Liquors in Reisterstown, Eastport Liquors in Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s (McLean and Alexandria), the Italian Store in Arlington, Whole Foods Market (Alexandria, Tysons Corner, Reston), Unwined (Alexandria and Belleview). More from Food: Spirits Column Beer Column -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 5219 Elliot Ave. S, Minneapolis, MN 55417 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

12 years, 10 months

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win February 2013