Red Before Labor Day: Summer.s New Rules
By ERIC ASIMOV
THE weather won.t matter. Dry and bright would be ideal for stoking the grill, but even muggy heat or dispiriting drizzle won.t stanch the joyous sense of letting go that arrives with Memorial Day weekend.
Aside from the holiday.s ceremonial importance . honoring the men and women who have died serving in the armed forces . the weekend means one thing to most: the unofficial start of summer. As with fashion and food, drinking assumes a more casual, easygoing tone.
Yet the old rules no longer hold. Toss aside the stodgy, outmoded dogma of summer as white-wine season, for one thing. Bourbon need not be consigned to the recesses of the closet in favor of rum and vodka.
For too long, seasonal drinking has been considered a matter of color: reds for the cold; roséand whites for the heat. Similar rules hold with beer. Friends may gasp as I drink a pint of Guinness in my shorts and sunglasses. They assume dark beers are heavy. But I just smile. Little do they know that Irish stout is crisp, dry and low in alcohol.
It.s not color that guides the choice of warm-weather beverages, but weight. Just as woolens give way to cottons and linens, so do heavier wines, beers and spirits yield to beverages with less ballast. What seems robust and warming in the bleak cold now feels ponderous and unwieldy. By contrast, what felt insubstantial back then is now refreshing and energizing.
Punch, for instance, is often associated with fall and winter holidays. Yet it can be made seasonal with the delicate spring sweetness of strawberries, and summery with the tropical tang of limes. Sure, you could settle for a bland base of vodka, but bourbon adds the perfect backbone of vanilla richness.
Red wines have their place, too. Why would anybody assume that in the heat of summer the desire to drink them simply evaporates? You.re not planning to serve a Sancerre with that porterhouse sizzling on the grill, are you? Of course not. A hefty zinfandel or full-bodied cabernet sauvignon would be too much, but a good Chianti, of medium weight with refreshing acidity is just the thing, especially if you chill it ever so lightly.
Commercially, Memorial Day heralds roséeason, a custom I cannot abide because I like roséear-round. Great rosé. like those from Châau Pradeaux and Domaine Tempier in Bandol; Châau Simone in Palette; Valentini in Montepulciano; and my current obsession, Domaine Ilarria in Irouléy . are as fulfilling in the depths of January as in July.s dank heat.
Not all roséare as versatile, however. Does anybody really want a heavy rosén the midday heat or while tending the coals before dinner? I don.t think so. In most rosé a heavy dose of alcohol or a clumsy level of sweetness will unbalance the wine. The roséto look for are crisp, textured and refreshing.
>From Provence, rosé spiritual home, I like Châau de Roquefort, Domaine du Jas d.Esclans and Peyrassol. But good rosécome from all over, like Spain, including Campos de Enanzo in Navarra and Los Bermejos in the Canary Islands; Shinn Estate on Long Island; and Arnot-Roberts in California, which makes an unusual but delicious rosérom touriga nacional, a leading port grape growing in Lake County.
They make rosén Champagne, too, many good ones. But nothing is particularly summery about them, and they are often heavier than the usual bruts.
If you want a great summer bubbly, may I suggest Cerdon du Bugey from Renardat-Fâe? This light-bodied pink sparkling wine has noticeable sweetness, but is beautifully balanced and stimulating as an aperitif or refreshing after dinner.
I mentioned a bourbon, strawberry and lime punch earlier. Made with elderberry tea and Angostura bitters, it is wonderful for a crowd: refreshing, tangy and celebratory. But if you don.t plan a big gathering, simply diminish the proportions in the recipe here. It.s offered occasionally at Prime Meats in Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn, where it was developed by Damon W. Boelte, bar director for the Frankies group of restaurants, who calls it Too Hot to Hoot and describes it as summer in a bowl.
.Bourbon and lime is a rare combination,. he said. .It usually goes with lemon, but with all the other ingredients, they really play well together..
More often than not, this weekend calls out for a beer or a few. I love the dry, snappy bitterness of a pilsner. Excellent versions are made in New York by Sixpoint and Brooklyn Breweries. Other good pilsners include those from Victory, Lakefront, Trö and Pilsner Urquell.
I can.t help but reiterate my love of Köh, the crisp, slightly bitter golden ale from Cologne, Germany, which I find so brisk and energizing. The three brands seen regularly are Gaffel, Reissdorf and Sü and I find a lot to like about each.
Stout is not the only dark beer appropriate for summer. I especially like porter, too. But thoughts of summer beer would not be complete without a nod to Belgian and Bavarian wheat beers . fresh, spicy and intrinsically refreshing. Look for Belgian styles from Allagash, Hoegaarden, Southampton Publick House and Jolly Pumpkin; among the many producers of Bavarian-style hefeweizen, look for Franziskaner, Schneider Weisse, Brooklyn and Ayinger.
After rosé most wine drinkers reach reflexively at Memorial Day for whites, as if they.re the equivalent of white belts and shoes: enjoyed for the summer and stowed after Labor Day. I hate to say it, but that thinking is as dated as instant coffee; sure, you.ll have something in your glass, but why deprive yourself of so much pleasure?
I especially like reds that are lightly chilled, not to refrigerator temperature, but just enough to feel cool in the glass. Beaujolais, of course, but also Cerasuolo di Vittoria, the lovely, enticing light red from Sicily. Valle dell.Acate, COS and Occhipinti all make excellent versions. Look also for frappato, one of the constituent grapes of Cerasuolo di Vittoria.
Many other Italian reds go beautifully with a light chill, whether Chianti, barbera, dolcetto, Valpolicella or lesser-known grapes like teroldego from Trentino or cornalin from the Valle d.Aoste. And if you need a full-on refrigerator blast, how about an icy cold Lambrusco from a top producer like Lini, Medici Ermete or Vittorio Graziano?
Or perhaps one of the more restrained pinot noirs from the Sonoma Coast of California? Ross Cobb of Cobb Wines makes excellent pinot noirs that are delightful lightly chilled, particularly those from the Emmaline and Coastlands vineyards. From Spain, try the reds from Ribeira Sacra, a stunning site in eastern Galicia. I especially like D. Ventura and Guíro wines.
Now, just because I.m touting reds doesn.t mean I.m immune to the charms of summer whites. Far from it. I love a crisp Sancerre, especially those that show the terroir rather than simply the fruitiness of the sauvignon grape. Look for producers like Gérd Boulay, Lucien Crochet, Domaine Vacheron and Thomas-Labaille. Rieslings can be superbly refreshing, whether the light off-dry style of a kabinett riesling from the Mosel; the späese-style late-harvest riesling of Hermann J. Wiemer in the Finger Lakes; or the dry mineral flavors of Ravines, a Finger Lakes riesling of a totally different style.
For many people, chardonnay remains synonymous with white wine. Summer or winter, I.ll never say no to Chablis, the most distinctive chardonnay in the world, and out in the Santa Rita Hills of Santa Barbara County, Rajat Parr, the Bay Area sommelier, sells deliciously balanced chardonnays under the Sandhi label.
What, you.ve graduated to pinot grigio? Well, I have nothing against good pinot grigio. (Relegate the insipid ones to the mediocre restaurants of the world.) For good ones, producers like Elena Walch and Alois Lageder of Alto Adige have much to offer.
You know, I.m really just getting started. With any luck, it.ll be a long, hot summer.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
FYI
Wine from southern France worth stocking up on right now
By Dave McIntyre, Published: May 22
Wine has come a long way in overcoming the snob factor to become a popular drink for every day, or at least every week. We expect wine to be consistent in quality . on a basic, ordinary level, anyway. We want each bottle of our favorite brand of cabernet sauvignon or chardonnay to taste as good as the last one, and wine manufacturers are getting better at achieving consistency at affordable prices. We can ignore the vintage on our Yellow Tail or Barefoot chardonnay because we know each will taste alike, just as we have confidence in every bottle of our favorite beer. That is key to the growing popularity of wine in the United States.
Wine Recommendations
But I am here to tell you that vintage matters. Much of wine.s charm, for those of us who spend way too much time drinking it and thinking about it, is its variability from one place to another and one year to the next. By paying attention to vintage characteristics, we know when to snatch up relative bargains in Burgundy or Bordeaux to drink young while waiting for .better. years to mature. And we know when to double down and stock up.
Now is the time for wine lovers to invest in France, which has enjoyed a string of terrific vintages beginning with 2007 and culminating in the universally acclaimed 2010. If you are a collector, you.ve probably been buying already. If you are a novice or simply an explorer, now is the time to procure by the case and see how the wine evolves.
Whether 2010 will surpass the excellent 2009 is a matter best resolved at dinner tables over the next several years. You can reach your own conclusion. But the 2010 red wines from southern France are now entering our market, and they are tremendous in quality and value. Adventurous wine lovers will buy the 2009s still on the shelves to compare with the 2010s as they age.
Focus on Cotes du Rhone. These wines from the Rhone Valley and northern Provence are blends primarily of grenache and syrah, often with other grape varieties included. The most prestigious Rhone reds, from Cornas, Cote Rotie and Chateauneuf-du-Pape, are not yet available, but basic Cotes du Rhone and the various village wines, such as Rasteau, Gigondas, Vacqueyras and others, are in stores. Wines from the Languedoc, a bit farther south and west, are also enjoying a string of strong vintages and offer great value. From here, look for wines from the Corbieres or Minervois appellations.
My favorites from recent tastings include the Coteaux F Rouge from Eric Texier, a darling of the .natural wine. movement for his non-interventionist style of winemaking. That wine, at a modest $16 to $18 a bottle, is electric. It carries an energy that tells you it is alive in a way most wines don.t. That also means its flavors are hard to pin down and best experienced in a glass rather than in a newspaper.
In a more traditional style, the J.L. Chave Selection Mon Coeur and the Alain Jaume Rasteau speak of the earth and the terroir where the wines were grown. The J.L. Chave seemed to draw me through the roots of the vines as they scratched out mineral qualities from the soil. The Rasteau added herbal notes of lavender, rosemary and thyme in a beguiling bouquet that made me wonder whether the wine had somehow transported me to southern France.
Your assignment for the summer: Buy red wines from the Cotes du Rhone and Languedoc regions of France. You will be rewarded as they develop over several years.
Wine Recommendations
McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine.
Recommendations
Published: May 22
Recommendations
...Exceptional ...Excellent..Very Good
Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
Here are some stellar wines from southern France to introduce you to the delicious 2010 vintage.
Domaine de la Mordoree, La Reine des Bois, Lirac 2010 ...
Rhone Valley, France, $40
This deep and intense wine tastes like a Chateauneuf-du-Pape, the king of southern Rhone wines, and is priced accordingly. It smolders with earthy complexity and minerality that hint of treasures to be unfurled with age. Buy it for later this decade, or decant it a few hours before dinner to allow its flavors to develop.
Kysela: Available in the District at Ace Beverage, Calvert Woodley. Available in Maryland at Bacchus Wine and Spirits in Hagerstown, Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, Pinehurst Wine Shoppe and Wine Source in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s in Alexandria and McLean, Classic Wines in Great Falls, Out of Site Wines in Vienna; on the list at L.Auberge Chez Francois in Great Falls.
Alain Jaume, Grand Veneur Reserve 2010 ...
Cotes du Rhone, France, $15
Alain Jaume produces an exceptional line of wines from throughout the southern Rhone Valley, and I heartily endorse all of them, especially his Rasteau ($27). The Grand Veneur Reserve is the most widely available, and it shows classic Cotes-du-Rhone characteristics of lavender, thyme, rosemary, dark fruit and earth.
Kysela: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Capitol Hill Wine and Spirits, Circle Wine & Liquor, Kogod Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder.s, Marvelous Market of Capitol Hill, Paul.s of Chevy Chase, Sheffield Wine & Liquor Shoppe. Available widely in Maryland, including at Bay Ridge Wine & Spirits in Annapolis, Calvert Discount Liquors in Cockeysville, Decanter Fine Wines in Columbia, Eddie.s of Roland Park in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s, Unwined and the Winery in Alexandria; Kybecca in Fredericksburg.
J.L. Chave Selection Mon Coeur 2010 ...
Cotes du Rhone, France, $21
Jean-Louis Chave is one of the most famous Rhone winemakers, and this bottling helps explain why. It tastes of stones, silly as that sounds, and earth, with gritty and grippy tannins that draw you in and make you want to meet this wine again in four or five years.
Bacchus: Available in the District at Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Rodman.s; on the list at the Source by Wolfgang Puck. Available in Maryland at Wine Merchant in Lutherville, Wine Source in Baltimore.
Eric Texier Coteaux F Rouge 2010 ..1 / 2
Cotes du Rhone, France, $18
Eric Texier is a darling of the .natural wine. movement, and this wine is as natural as they come. It tastes almost raw at first, but electric in its energy. Before long it shows delicious fruit and length. Decant at least an hour before drinking.
Bacchus/Williams Corner: Available in the District at Cork & Fork, Cork Market, MacArthur Beverages, Weygandt Wines; on the list at Mintwood Place and PS 7.s. Available in Maryland at Calvert Wine & Spirits in Hunt Valley, Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Roots Market in Olney, Wine Cellars of Annapolis, Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Bolton Hill Bistro in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Market Street Wineshop in Charlottesville, River City Cellars in Richmond.
La Reserve du Domaine Sainte-Eugenie 2010 ..1 / 2
Languedoc, France, $16
This blend of syrah, carignan and grenache follows the classic southern France model for reds and offers up an inky, mineral wine with hints of the herbs and sea air that wine lovers refer to as .garrigue.. It should develop nicely for a few years.
Kacher: Available in the District at Cork & Fork, Dixie Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor; on the list at Marcel.s. Available in Maryland at California Wine & Spirits in California, the Perfect Pour in Elkridge, Quarry Wine & Spirits in Baltimore; on the list at Isabella.s Taverna and Tapas Bar and the Tasting Room in Frederick.
Chateau de Segries Lirac 2010 ..1 / 2
Rhone Valley, France, $23
It is awkward at first, but after several hours, and even up to the next evening, the wine develops clear, pure flavors of blackberries and exotic herbs. Cellar it for two to three years. It won.t disappoint.
Kysela: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Wide World of Wines. Available in Maryland at Friendship Wine & Liquor in Abingdon; Jason.s Wine & Spirits in Ellicott City; Mt. Washington Wine Co., North Charles Fine Wine & Spirits and Wells Discount Liquors in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Balducci.s in Alexandria and McLean.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Just in time for your Stay-cation:
Cheers,
Jim
Armchair travel via torrontes, cava and viognier
By Dave McIntyre, Published: May 15
Spring fever has set in, and I feel the need to get up and out. But no mountain climbing or cross-country bike trips for me. I do my exploring in wine stores.
This is a great season to experience the wide variety of wine from around the world, especially white wines. I.m not one to say whites are to be enjoyed only from Easter to Labor Day, but it is undeniable that the refreshing acidity of many whites makes them ideal for warm weather.
Wine Recommendations
So here.s a suggested itinerary: Start high in the foothills of the Andes in Argentina with torrontes, a spicy, flowery wine that is rapidly becoming the white counterpart to Argentina.s malbec as a signature wine. Crisp and refreshing, it combines the floral attributes of muscat and the spicy notes of Gewurztraminer. Most hail from Mendoza, Argentina.s main wine region, and Santa Julia is a reliable brand. But look especially for those from Salta, an even higher, more remote area farther north where torrontes excels. Colome winery boasts the world.s highest vineyards at 10,000 feet. Its torrontes is widely, and justly, considered Argentina.s best expression of the grape.
The Portuguese know about refreshment, of course, as they sit at sidewalk cafes munching on grilled sardines and linguica sausage while listening to fado music and washing down the experience with vinho verde. Okay, I.ve run out of Portuguese cliches, but vinho verde is an underrated wine that is ideal for hot weather. Fresh, tart and acidic, it is fine by itself and pairs well with garlicky appetizers. It won.t win points for complexity or dominate your conversation. Don.t be put off by a little spritz; that adds to the pure, simple fun.
Do you love seafood salads and grilled fish? Then you should explore albarino, the premier white wine from northwestern Spain. Albarino.s flavor profile resembles that of Riesling, but it is invariably dry. Taboexa is a new label available in this area and a nice value at about $16. Albarino also has become a hit with local vintners; look for offerings from Chrysalis and Willowcroft in Virginia and Black Ankle in Maryland, though they will be pricey.
France.s Rhone Valley is known for its red wines, but its whites are underappreciated. Part of the problem is that they feature some unfamiliar flavors and grapes (when marked on the label, which is rare).
In the southern Rhone, grenache blanc is prominent in the blend. It.s a racy grape that is becoming trendy in California. Farther north, viognier dominates. I.m especially fond of the E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone white, a 50-50 blend of viognier and marsanne. The viognier offers richness and floral notes, while the marsanne tempers the viognier.s lushness and provides structure and minerality.
I also enjoy quirky blends that don.t fit a standard model of what wine should be. The Old World doesn.t blend chardonnay with sauvignon blanc, viognier and Gewurztraminer, but Adam Lee does for his Novy Family Vineyards Four Mile Creek white wine. This is the type of floral, fun, off-dry white that defies any attempt at stereotyping.
And for life.s daily celebrations, such as a minor victory at work or just an easy commute home after a busy weekday, bubbles are in order. My favorite sparkler for this time of year is Spanish cava. It can be a downright bargain, at $8 to $10 for Segura Viudas Reserva, or a mini-splurge of up to about $20 for a more complex version. Juve y Camps Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia 2007 (see the accompanying recommendations) is an excellent example of what Spain can produce in a sparkling wine. At $20, it tastes like a $40 champagne. You could fool your friends, but Spain deserves the recognition.
Whatever you drink this season, don.t rely on the same old stuff. Follow a different path.
Wine Recommendations
McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine.
Wine recommendations By . D.M., Published: May 15
Here are six white wines from around the world that will help start your warm-weather explorations.
. D.M.
Juve y Camps Brut Nature Reserva de la Familia Cava 2007 ... Penedes, Spain, $20
This is high-class cava that tastes like a twice-as-expensive champagne. Maybe too pricey for those everyday celebrations, but perhaps once a week ..... ?
Winebow: Available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Dupont Market, Lion.s Fine Wine & Spirits, Magruder.s; on the list at Ceiba, Pizzeria Paradiso in Dupont Circle and Georgetown, Sequoia, Sova Espresso & Wine, Veranda, Vinoteca. Available in Maryland at Beer & Wine Co. and Georgetown Square Beer & Wine in Bethesda, Belby Discount Beer & Wine in Rockville, Grape Expectations in Gaithersburg; on the list at Jaleo in Bethesda. Available in Virginia at J Emerson Fine Wines & Cheese in Richmond, Market Cellars in Reston; on the list at Velocity 5 Sports Bar in Sterling.
Vina Taboexa Albarino 2011 ..1 / 2 Rias Baixas, Spain, $16
Albarino has become fashionable of late, which means many wines of variable quality are available in this market. The Taboexa shows the tart acidity characteristic of the grape, plus loads of fruit to back it up. Excellent with any citrus seafood dish, as well as garlicky or spicy tapas.
Dionysus: Available in the District at Cork & Fork, D.Vines, Rodman.s, Wagshal.s Market; on the list at Bodega. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s, Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork & Fork in Bethesda; Wine Cellars of Annapolis. On the list at Sushi-Ko in Friendship Heights. Available in Virginia at Ashburn Wine Shop, Balducci.s in McLean and Alexandria, Cheesetique in Arlington and Alexandria, Cork & Fork in Gainesville, Ellwood Thompson.s Local Market and River City Cellars in Richmond, Grand Cru Wine Bar & Bistro in Arlington, Unwined in Alexandria and Belleview.
Lake Chalice Wines Cracklin. Savie Sauvignon Blanc .. Marlborough, New Zealand, $19
This is an unusual wine, which is why I like it. It.s a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, with the characteristic grassy flavors, and it has a mild spritz from carbonation. Surprise your friends with this to open your summer patio parties.
Elite: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Rodman.s, Schneider.s of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage, Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Wine Cellars of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Cheesetique in Arlington, Rick.s Wine & Gourmet in Alexandria.
E Guigal Cotes du Rhone 2010 .. Rhone Valley, France, $16
This blend of viognier and marsanne shows northern Rhone valley white wine at its affordable best. Excellent with lighter seafood dishes.
M Touton Selection: Widely available in the District and Maryland. Available in Virginia at the Frenchman.s Cellar in Culpeper, Planet Wine & Gourmet, Unwined in Alexandria, Vino Market in Midlothian, the Wine House in Fairfax, various Wegmans locations; on the list at La Bergerie and Yves Bistro in Alexandria, Cafe Tatti in McLean.
Novy Family Wines Four Mile Creek White 2010/2011 .1 / 2 California, $13
Here.s an uncommon blend of chardonnay, Gewurztraminer, viognier and sauvignon blanc. The Gewurz dominates the nose with its scent of litchi, but the chardonnay is evident on the palate with its rich mouth feel. This is a wine that defies conventions and makes you want to enjoy it for what it is: darn tasty. The vintage is changing over from 2010 to 2011. Both are good.
Bacchus in the District and Maryland, Robins Cellars in Virginia: Available in Maryland at 1311 Beer & Wine in Mount Airy, Cranbrook Liquors in Cockeysville. Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Galloping Grape in Warrenton.
Conde Villar Vinho Verde 2011 .1 / 2 Portugal, $11
Refreshing and simple, with lemon-lime flavors and a hint of spritz for oomph.
Country Vintner: Available in the District at Cork Market, Kogod Liquor, Local Vine Cellar, Virginia Market. Available in Maryland at Georgetown Square Beer & Wine in Bethesda, I.M. Wine in Fulton. Available in Virginia at Red, White & Bleu in Falls Church.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Dear friends,
For those who have been following the issue of counterfeiting in the "old
and rare" market and/or the Rudy Kurniawan case in particular, interesting
coverage of the subject appears in an article titled "Chateau Sucker" in the
May 13 issue of New York magazine:
http://nymag.com/print/?/news/features/rudy-kurniawan-wine-fraud-2012-5/.
The highly detailed 25-page Kurniawan indictment, handed down by a New York
grand jury a week ago, is available for your reading pleasure on Michael
Steinberger's blog (winediarist.com) and the free portion of Jancis
Robinson's website (jancisrobinson.com) among other sources.
Enjoy your Spring - and may all your wines be genuine :-)
Russ
How to get your Brdx fix AND keep your IRA.
C,
J
Bordeaux's second wines affordable, exceptional
Michael Apstein
Sunday, May 13, 2012
We Americans don't realize it, but the Chinese are determining what wine we drink.
They're not flooding the market with knockoffs or gray-market bottles. Instead, their voracious appetite for big-name Bordeaux has relegated us to buying the leftovers.
Fortunately, there is a silver lining. Bordeaux's so-called "second wines" are exceptional, and are an affordable way to access top chateaus.
"Today they must be good because they are a true and authentic introduction to the estate," says John Kolasa, managing director at both Châau Rauzan-Séa in Margaux and Châau Canon in St. Emilion. "Your name is on the label."
Historically, most second wines from the Méc were sold in French supermarkets, according to Emmanuel Cruse, owner of Châau d'Issan in Margaux, and few producers cared about their quality. Only a rare chateau would make a third wine; Latour, for example, introduced its third wine, labeled simply Pauillac, in 1990 to enhance the quality of its second wine, Les Forts de Latour.
But over the last decade, as the prices of the standard-bearer wines escalated, in large part due to demand from China, producers realized there was real money in promoting their second wines. The notion of sloppy seconds has vanished.
"Ten years ago, there were perhaps five to 10 (second wines) that merited attention. Now there are scores of them," notes Christopher Shipley, former sommelier at the 21 Club in New York and currently U.S. sales director for Joanne, a large importer of Bordeaux.
Top prices go up
The numbers are one reason why chateaus are smiling. At third-growth Chateau Palmer, annual production of its top wine fell from 15,000 to 20,000 cases to about 10,000 cases since the winery's 1998 introduction of a second wine, Alter Ego de Palmer. But not only did the quality of the grand vin increase enormously - so did the price, from about $80 a bottle upon release for the 1996 to $350 for the 2009. The 2009 Alter Ego - about 6,000 cases - sells for $80 a bottle.
Although it's not clear which chateau made the first second wine, the concept became entrenched when Chateau Latour introduced its second wine with the 1966 vintage. Now, most properties in the Méc, Pessac-Lénan, on the Right Bank and even in Sauternes, make one.
Typically, second wines are made from younger vines or parts of an estate that historically made inferior wine. Young vines, which for Cruse are less than 18 years old, can make good wine. But, he points out, they can be inconsistent.
Initially, Bordeaux vintners made these seconds to bolster the quality of the first wine - in large part to win the race for critics' scores and also to protect a chateau's reputation. But Rauzan-Séa, unhappy with its 1987 vintage, bottled its entire crop under its then second label, Châau Lamouroux. (Today, Séa is the label for their second wine.)
Only the best at the top
Choosing only the very best for top wines has become a virtual necessity as prices have spiraled.
"Selection is the key for making good wine," says Marcel Ducasse, who before his retirement was largely responsible for the dramatic 1980s turnaround at St. Julien third-growth Chateau Lagrange.
When Ducasse took over at Lagrange, everything from the harvest, including press wine, went into the blend for just one wine. It was, he says, a "fosse commune" - everyone in the same grave.
Now, Lagrange makes at least three and sometimes four wines, with the grand vin representing less than half of total production. Its second wine, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, plus bulk wine and other discarded lots, comprise the other half. While improvements in the vineyard can take a decade, Ducasse points out, selection can improve a wine overnight.
Yet at Palmer, the second wine starts in the vineyard. Management identified plots that produce good wine, but are never up to the standards for the grand vin. Wine from those parcels, which typically matures earlier, as well as selected barrels that don't make the cut, wind up in Palmer's Alter Ego.
The blend
The blend for both is roughly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. A little Petit Verdot goes into the grand vin as well.
Elsewhere, the wine is made and aged in the same way, regardless of its original plot. Winemakers taste each barrel, eliminating those not up to snuff. Even some of first-string quality, but not in the style of the chateau, are excluded.
In 2005, Chateau Margaux diverted more of its superb Merlot into its second wine, Pavillon Rouge, because its higher-than-usual alcohol content would have perturbed the balance of the grand vin, according to Paul Pontallier, Margaux's managing director.
Jean-Philippe Delmas, managing director at both Chateau La Mission Haut Brion and Chateau Haut-Brion, explains that his team first makes the blend for the top wines and then goes back and makes another blend for the second wines. What's left, he says, "goes into the garbage."
Concept spreads
The concept has spread beyond Bordeaux. Ornellaia, in Tuscany's Bolgheri, introduced its second wine, Serre Nuove, in 1997, just in time for its first wine to soar in quality. Coincidence?
Consumers should be smiling. Second wines mature sooner and are far more approachable when young. They are typically only slightly less polished- lamb's wool versus cashmere - than their big brothers. While less complex, they still qualify as refined Bordeaux.
And second wines are inevitably much cheaper. Even for less prestigious wines, the price difference between the grand vin and the second is significant. The 2009 Chateau Lagrange sells for about $66; the excellent Les Fiefs goes for about $32. A similar ratio exists for 2009 Chateau d'Issan - $85 for the first wine, $34 for Blason d'Issan.
So thank you, Beijing.
>From the notebook
2009 Alter Ego de Palmer ($80, 14% alcohol): This blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is extraordinary, reflecting the polish of Palmer and the stature of the vintage. Engagingly lush now, a dark mineral component complements ripe black fruit notes. Plush tannins makes this almost feel like a grand vin. Importer: K&L Wine Merchants.
2008 Blason d'Issan ($40, 13%): A super second wine with remarkably suave tannins and uplifting acidity that balances its exuberant fruit. The velvety texture is textbook Margaux. Importer: Joanne Bordeaux USA.
2008 Les Fiefs de Lagrange ($35, 13%): Les Fiefs is perhaps the best value Bordeaux in the market. Charming and accessible, the 2008 has the class of top-notch Bordeaux, delivering a wonderful mix of fruit flavors and slightly savory nuances wrapped in glossy tannins. Importer: Joanne Bordeaux USA.
2008 L'Hospitalet de Gazin ($50, 13%): Concentrated with an engaging touch of tar, the second wine of Gazin tantalizes with just a hint of the flamboyance of Pomerol. Importer: Vintus Wines.
2008 Le Serre Nuove dell'Ornellaia ($58, 13%): Hints of chocolate and spice embellish the black fruit character of this lively and plush wine. Vibrant acidity - it is Tuscan - amplifies the flavors and enjoyment. Importer: Folio Fine Wine Partners.
Michael Apstein is a freelance wine writer. wine(a)sfchronicle.com
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/05/13/FD7E1OCMJS.DTL
This article appeared on page G - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Missed this bit in the previous post.
C,
J
Rules for enjoying rosé
By Dave McIntyre, Tuesday, May 8, 1:33 PM
Our warm spring means an early roséeason. The new, fresh roséfrom 2011 are beginning to reach our market, promising a summer.s worth of refreshment on the patio or by the pool. A good, well-chilled roséakes an excellent aperitif and tends to pair well with simple vinegary or garlicky foods. This makes roséuniversal warm-weather partners to appetizers and salads.
Here are a few pointers on roséo keep in mind as you shop:
Roséhould be dry, though often there is a hint of ripe sweetness . not a sugary quality . to them. This appeals to our palate preference for sweet, though it is by no means your mother.s white zinfandel. A good roséill have sufficient acidity . that refreshing quality . to balance the sweetness.
Color does not equal quality. Some people prefer the palest of rosé meaning the juice was left on the grape skins for the least possible time during pressing. But some rosé especially from Tavel, an area in the Rhone Valley of France that is famous for its roséare vibrantly red. Both can be exceptional.
Rosés now an international wine. Traditionally, the south of France is known as roséountry, and Spanish or Italian rosados can be quite tasty. But rosés made wherever wine is grown. I recently enjoyed a wonderful pinot noir roséalled Stock & Stein, made by Peter Jakob Kuhn in Germany.s Rheingau region, which is available only in a few restaurants.
California makes excellent rosén a riper, more full-bodied style. Alexander Valley Vineyards Dry Roséf Sangiovese is one of my favorite American roséevery year. The 2011 is delicious with sappy cherry flavors and an herbal-woodsy character to balance its ripeness. Boxwood Winery in Virginia and Knob Hall in Maryland produce noteworthy local versions.
Roséas a lifespan; it can age a bit. A month ago, if you looked for a rosén your local store, you likely wouldn.t have found any except maybe in the bargain bins of tossed-off wines the store couldn.t sell. But for the next several weeks, you will see several 2011 roséfrom around the world blossoming on store shelves like daffodils and tulips. We are conditioned to prefer roséhen it is fresh and young, and there is an urban myth that roséhould be consumed in the year after harvest.
That.s a short-sighted viewpoint, however. Rosés often terrific the second year after harvest, having shed some (but not all) of that bracing acidity and fleshed out with extra fruit. And 2010 was a terrific vintage in France, especially in the south along the Rhone Valley and Provence, the areas most known for roséSpanish roséas traditionally held for release in the second year, but has been rushed to market recently to meet demand for freshness. Enlightened retailers should stock a separate shelf of .last year.s rosé which they can probably get cheap and sell at a discount.
And enlightened consumers should stock up on both 2010 and 2011 rosé the 2010s to drink now, and the 2011s, well, to drink now, but also to save some for next year.
After all, who knows how warm March 2013 will be?
McIntyre blogs at dmwineline.com. Follow him on Twitter: @dmwine.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Just in time for BBQ season.
Cheers,
Jim
Sonoma Zinfandel: The Chronicle Recommends
Jon Bonnéunday, May 6, 2012
Zinfandel is California's grape, and nowhere has it found a home like Sonoma County, where more than 5,300 acres are devoted to it. If you want a barometer of the state of Zin, look no further.
It has been a few years since we tasted broadly across the spectrum of these Zins - and even longer since we looked at Sonoma's historical strength: red field blends, based on Zinfandel, but bringing in Carignane, Alicante Bouschet, Petite Sirah and more as a supporting cast. It's what has brought Sonoma decades of success on both sides of Prohibition.
This tasting of more than 60 wines began as an examination of field blends, which have been resurging in recent years.
Practitioners like Bucklin and Bedrock are matching new toil to old vines. These can be added to ranks of longtime efforts - both low-key table wines like Forchini's Papa Nonno, and ambitious fare like Ridge's Geyserville - in showing the best of Sonoma's strengths.
The use of a handful of other grapes, including white grapes for a red wine, adds structure, acidity and complexity in a way that no tinkering in the cellar can match.
Is Zin still struggling with its identity? For sure. (For more, go to sfg.ly/zinCLSH.) The same braggardly efforts of the past were on full display here; there's a lot of new oak being trucked down Lytton Springs Road. But the 2009 and 2010 vintages, both more moderate (though with heat spikes in 2010 that were especially unkind to Zin), perfectly framed a style of the wine that its longtime loyalists will remember.
Which is to say that some delicious and vibrant wines were found in the mix - including efforts from names like Paradise Ridge and Limerick Lane that have shone in past years.
Quality can be seen in established names (Bella) and new ones (Horse & Plow). On balance, for those taking their Zin seriously in Sonoma, there are at least two vintages to show just how compelling its Zinfandels can be when given a chance for the freshness of the fruit to shine.
On those field blends: The more interest in going back to that bit of benevolent chaos in the vineyards, the happier we all should be. It was one of California viticulture's best ideas in the decades before blending became a fancy thing.
Perhaps it doesn't mesh with a winemaking culture that can be a bit OCD at times, but it's one spot where the wisdom of winemaking past has a lot to offer in the present day.
2010 Bedrock Old Vine Sonoma Valley Zinfandel ($22, 14.8% alcohol):
Morgan Twain-Peterson already has a reputation for Zinfandel-focused wines, but with the 2010s his true finesse is on display. This blended bottle is still a bit shut, but as it opens you sense a tremendous lift to the flavors: dusky plum and brambly fruit amid cassia and floral scents. Dynamic, notably complex and showing Zin's seriousness.
2009 Seghesio San Lorenzo Alexander Valley Red ($60, 15%): Seghesio uses its oldest parcel, bought in 1896 and still planted to a field blend, for this tribute to their long winemaking history. It's built for utter seriousness (and priced to match) - complex, tight-knit and showing a beetroot bite to match delicate white-flower aromas and a multihued brambliness. The subtlety of its tannins offers a broad, fine-grained structure to support its estimable body.
2009 Forchini Papa Nonno Dry Creek Valley Red ($19, 14.3%):
Jim Forchini has been working his vineyard in Dry Creek since 1976, a site that includes century-old vines. With Cabernet and Carignane, and 5 percent mixed white grapes, in the mix along with a majority of Zinfandel, this is layered and aromatic, with mineral and apple blossoms, bay laurel, raspberry and roasted plum. An amazingly complex bottle for the money.
2010 Ridge Geyserville Sonoma County Red ($37, 14.3%):
The modest vintage, and a smaller amount of new oak, left Ridge's Sonoma wines with a lot of pent-up energy, enough that they'll reward a couple years in the cellar. Geyserville's dusty huckleberry fruit (from a mix of Zinfandel with Carignane, Petite Sirah and more) shows up as the wine opens, matched by remarkable tension on the palate: nutmeg, mint, currant and an intensely chewy profile. Give it time to get really interesting.
2009 Bella Maple Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($38, 14.4%): Bella's aristocratic style uses mostly older oak for fruit from the Maple family's dry-farmed clay and loam site. Nuanced and vanilla-tinged, with game meat and dust to the cooked raspberry and dried currant fruit, and a beech-bark accent that adds to its savory side.
2009 Sandler Buck Hill Vineyard Sonoma County Zinfandel ($27, 15%): Ed Kurtzman has shifted his Pinot talents (August West, Freeman) to Zin, tapping this site near Kick Ranch, east of Santa Rosa. A sweet and generous approach, with fresh raspberry, hay and distinct aniseed, and pleasantly chewy tannins.
2010 Hawley Winery Ponzo Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($30, 14.8%): John Hawley brings his long experience (Clos du Bois, Kendall-Jackson) to this gravelly site just outside Healdsburg. The result is a tangy, nuanced example of Russian River's potential with Zinfandel. A bit rooty and showing some violet perfume and tree bark accents to the plum and raspberry fruit.
2009 Limerick Lane Block 1970 Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($36, 14.4%): This much-loved property is now controlled by Marietta Cellars' Bilbro family, and they have applied their blending talents to its bottlings, the youngest of which is from 42-year-old vines. Dusky, tangy and a touch sweet, with plum and candied violet, it shows great bones: a dusty minerality and big tannic backbone. For truly old vines, there's the cardamom-edged 2009 Limerick Lane Block 1910 ($48, 14.8%), which shows the subtlety that old Zin vines can offer.
2009 Paradise Ridge Hoenslaars Vineyard Russian River Valley Zinfandel ($40, 13.8%): The Byck family's winery has a reputation for Zins that speak a bit more quietly, The estate bottle shows a dusky, dusty profile, with creamy raspberry, plum skin, birch bark and chamomile. Refreshingly bright and tangy to the taste, and great potential to age.
2010 Rock Wall Harris Kratka Vineyard Alexander Valley Zinfandel ($35, 15%): A delicious, if slightly atypical, effort from the Rosenblum family's new winery. From a red-soiled vineyard with a long history in Alexander Valley, it shows a solid dose of up-front oak, but beyond that there's great freshness to the currant fruit and a pervading kirschy warmth.
2009 Unti Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($28, 14.8%): Mick Unti's wines can take a while to unfurl, and this 2009 from his estate site is still a good year away from uncorking. Full of dust and plum, it has a tight-knit, slightly raw profile, like raw meat and celery seed. There's pleasure in its subtle dark fruit and fenugreek spice, but it'll be better with some cellar time.
2010 Horse & Plow Grist Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($30, 14.5%): Chris Condos and Suzanne Hagins tapped this organically farmed 1,000-foot-elevation site, planted in 1974, for a curious take on Dry Creek Zin - perhaps too curious for some, given the debate we had as we tasted. The fruit flavors lean to freshly pressed cider, tasty but seeming barely finished. Beyond that, it's curious and fun: blossoms and gorgeous raspberry fruit, fennel, a zesty kick. If you try it, give it air.
2010 Hobo Wine Co. Branham Rockpile Vineyard Rockpile Zinfandel ($30, 14.6%): Kenny Likitprakong's label offers up a gorgeously fresh take on Rockpile - black plum, perfume, dark mineral and mint stem to offset the killer tannins, with a dense, tension-filled profile (age it a couple of years) that's similarly found in Hobo's Dry Creek Valley bottle ($22, 14.4%).
2010 Buena Vista Sonoma County Zinfandel ($13, 13.5%):
Now owned by the Boisset empire, this historic Sonoma property has turned back to the past with a label that looks like a stock certificate that Agoston Harazsthy might have held. Their basic bottle makes the best of a straightforward approach, tangy, fresh and showing solid Zin berry fruit.
2009 Mazzocco West Dry Creek Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel ($32, 16.2%): Take it or leave it, but Mazzocco's style swings for the rafters: flashy oak, lots of raisin flavors and unapologetic sweetness. There's also plenty of intrigue from this newer (1996) hillside site - dusty tannins, pie crust and deep cherry fruit, with no shortage of alcoholic heat. If you like amplitude in your Zin, this is strong catnip.
Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Mike Millett, wine buyer, Rainbow Grocery; Tonya Pitts, manager and sommelier, One Market.
Jon Bonnés The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. Read more of his wine coverage at www.sfgate.com/wine. Twitter: @jbonne. jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2012/05/06/FDQ41OC3GR.DTL
This article appeared on page G - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
