11/27/12 The best of West Coast sparkling wine - SFGate
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The best of West Coast sparkling wine
By Jon Bonn�
Updated 12:36 p.m., Monday, November 26, 2012
House styles among the U.S. makers of fine sparkling wine are getting more entrenched. That's a good thing, or at least it can be.
Producers like Roederer Estate and Domaine Chandon are delivering an extraordinary value and, of course, Schramsberg remains an
American classic.
Our top picks reflect the best efforts for value - wines that featured quality fruit and finesse in their texture, an often overlooked
aspect to sparkling wine. Where some producers are faltering, it seems, is in the final dose of sugar added to balance the wine.
There has been a lobbying effort to justify slightly off-dry wines, which absolutely have their place. But if brut wines define the
category, some are witnessing the phantom creep of sugar (also in Champagne, actually). It's the Chardonnay-ing of sparkling wine.
While there's no shortage of sugary, bubbly things on the market - sparkling Moscato, anyone? - the versatility of brut sparkling wine
comes from its crispness, not its sweetness. It's no coincidence that it's the perfect holiday wine.
One footnote: Don't be surprised to see lots of sparkling wines from 2010 and 2011 appear from names who don't usually traffic in fizzy
stuff. One side product of the cold vintages was a bump in bubbly production, finding a benevolent use for underripe fruit.
That may prove to be a silver lining, although I also encountered plenty of small labels marketing bubbles at $50 or more - at which
point you could be happily ensconced in good Champagne.
NV Roederer Estate Brut Ros� Anderson Valley Sparkling ($28, 12% alcohol): Roederer's Mendocino outpost is as on point as
ever with its Pinot-dominant blend and significant use of older reserve wine. That added depth elevates it. Fresh aromas of mint leaf,
sandalwood and huckleberry, plus bright mineral, green apple and fresh tangerine. Remarkable nuance, finessed texture and density.
Showing the best nature of American sparkling.
2009 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs North Coast Sparkling ($39, 12.7%): Schramsberg's whole lineup is strong right now, but
its original all-Chardonnay effort particularly stands out. Lavish and toasty, with brioche, bay leaf, river stones and lemon oil. A yeasty
richness defines it. The Mirabelle Brut ($25, 12.8%) has an intensity and yogurt-like tang that's perfect for an aperitif.
NV Scharffenberger Brut Excellence Mendocino Sparkling ($20, 12%): Still one of the best deals in American bubbles, this
shows a bit more Chardonnay fruit: fresh cream, flinty mineral, puff pastry and ripe pear matched by pecan and clover honey. Polished
and opulent. Still a secret weapon on the supermarket shelf.
2008 Argyle Brut Willamette Valley Sparkling ($27, 13%): Argyle seems to have regained a surer hand in its latest releases.
Warm apple, tangy lemon, white peach, thyme and toasted bread all contribute to a sense of balance and refinement in a fine Oregon
vintage. Coincidentally, the new 2002 release of its Extended Tirage Brut ($70, 12.5%), also marks a great year up north, though its
figgy flavors tilt sweet.
NV Domaine Chandon Brut Classic California Sparkling ($22, 13%): Chandon's mainline effort is genteel, driven by flavors of
pear, cassia, dried apricot and a beeswax aspect. It's texturally rich, but still sharp-edged, with citrus and mineral accents. If you
prefer to step up, Chandon's Etoile Brut ($40, 13%) shows both malic pop and brown-sugar softness.
2007 Gloria Ferrer Blanc de Blancs Sonoma Sparkling ($28, 12.9%): This American offshoot of Freixenet gives its
Chardonnay-based wine more than three years aging on the lees. Yet it's peppy and beautifully expressive, with a green-apple kick
and a salty aspect to the flavors. Breadcrumb, fig and well-modulated (13 g/l) sweetness that seems more restrained than in wines like
the Blanc de Noirs ($20, 12.2%).
2005 Mumm Napa DVX Napa Valley Sparkling ($65, 12.5%): Mumm's top-level cuvee shows a classy side in this abundant
vintage. Solid oak presence and aggressive bubbles appear first, but the equal balance of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay gives it both a
stoic side and an opulence. Dry, toasty aromas line up with Anjou pear, graham cracker and fig flavors.
NV J Vineyards Brut Ros� Russian River Valley Sparkling ($38, 12.5%): J's pink wine makes the most of Sonoma Pinot Noir,
with flavors of green pear and ripe currant matched by deep creaminess, accented by pencil shavings and wet roses. It's built for noholds-barred decadence; think crab in cream sauce.11/27/12 The best of West Coast sparkling wine - SFGate
www.sfgate.com/wine/wineselections/article/The-best-of-West-Coast-sparkling… 2/2
Panelists: Jon Bonn�, Chronicle wine editor; Tess Bryant, manager, Arlequin Wine Merchant.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Dear friends,
After searching French auctions for quite some time, Gary Westby of K&L
Wines in San Francisco has recently acquired a set of the very rare 1944
Larmat maps of Champagne's vineyards. Historically the champenois have been
fairly secretive about the exact location of individual vineyards -
especially so by comparison to, for example, Burgundy. The maps are posted
as full-color pdf files on K&L's blog (blog.klwines.com) and, if you have or
can arrange the capability to print very large sheets of paper, may be
printed out for display. If you've ever wondered about the precise location
and boundaries of the Clos des Goisses or les Chetillons, now you can look
it up!
Happy Thanksgiving to everyone, and don't forget to enjoy a glass of bubbly
with friends and family :-)
Russ and Sue
