win October 2012

win@thebarn.com

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by Jim L. Ellingson

October 18, 2012 Leaves Go Red, but You Needn.t By ERIC ASIMOV DRINK seasonally. It.s a fundamental precept, and it makes as much sense intuitively as dressing seasonally or carrying an umbrella on a cloudy day. I believe in it. Yet too often, it.s a command uttered without thinking, and so it lands without meaning. The overly simple translation of .drink seasonally. generally focuses on color. With the warmer weather of spring, out come the whites. Summer is ros� season; you can.t miss the retail displays. When the leaves begin to turn and the temperature calls for long sleeves, we stow the whites and ros�s in favor of reds. It.s easy but vacuous logic. Color is not the most significant factor in drinking seasonally. It.s texture and weight. Just as you choose lighter clothing in hot weather and heavier layers in the cold, so, too, do we gravitate toward more delicate wines in summer and sturdier bottles in winter. Yet even this way of thinking is too simplistic. Our hot-weather selves still crave a thick grilled steak as much as a seafood salad on the deck. And no matter how bundled up we are in winter, we still enjoy raw oysters as much as hearty stews. Mood and company also dictate what we eat and drink, so while seasonality certainly influences thinking, it.s only one of many factors in choosing a wine. Sure, more reds will find their way onto my table in the fall, not because they are red but because they tend as a group to be more stout than whites. Still, I save a significant place for more-robust whites; a full-bodied Vouvray, say, rather than an ethereal Mosel kabinett. Note that this is not a seasonal paradigm shift, rather a pivot in orientation. Nights grow longer and days shorter, but like reds and whites, we still have both. Which leads me to my bully pulpit for ros�. No wine is more a victim of seasonal affective drinking disorder than ros�. We embrace it in summer and otherwise ignore it. Yet certain ros�s (ambitious, weightier, more voluminous examples like those of Iroul�guy, made of sturdy grapes like tannat and cabernet franc) can hold their own year-round. I.m not saying ros�s should be frequent companions in the cold months, but they should not be dismissed. Thinking seasonally, I.ve picked 20 great fall wines (listed in no particular order), all at that magical price of $20, where the greatest values reside. I.m not saying a $20 wine is always a better value than a $17 bottle. The best quality-to-price ratio is found in the range of $15 to $25. But so many wines fall into that category that I arbitrarily picked the $20 midpoint. Plus, 20 for $20 is a nifty shorthand, no? By the way, I recognize that $20 is not cheap. Many people find it exorbitant, particularly if, like me, you enjoy wine practically every night with your meal. Who wouldn.t prefer spending only $10? Nonetheless, the general difference in quality and expression between what you can find in $10 and $20 wines is considerable, if not exponential. Is it worth the extra cost? I wouldn.t presume to dictate anybody.s spending priorities. I will say only that if your budget generally allows only $10 a bottle, treat yourself once in a while to a $20 wine like those on this list and see if you can.t tell the difference. Wines to Get You Through Fall With Money Left for Holiday Shopping 1. Ravent�s I Blanc Cava de Nit Catalonia 2009 Spain produces an ocean of cheap cava, the sparkling wine guzzled throughout the country. Much of it is forgettable, but this pale ros� (make that rosato) is elegant, nuanced and fresh, with balanced, persistent flavors. (Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.) 2. Andr� et Mireille Tissot Cr�mant du Jura Extra Brut NV Stephane Tissot, who makes the wines that bear his parents. names, is one of the most interesting and experimental producers in the Jura. But this is no oddball or fringe sparkler; it.s simply delicious and a great deal. It.s made largely of chardonnay and pinot noir, like a Champagne, with some trousseau and poulsard thrown in to provide a bit of Jura identity. With flavors of nuts, minerals and flowers, it.s dry, refined and lip-smacking. (A Camille Riviere Selection/Fruit of the Vines, New York) 3. Christ Wiener Gemischter Satz 2011 Vienna is the only great metropolis with commercial vineyards within its city limits. Gemischter satz wines are historically blends of grapes that are grown and fermented together and served in heurigen, informal little bars where wine estates served their own produce. The gemischter satz tradition was dying until a few committed producers revived it in the last decade and began to sell the wines commercially. This beautiful wine is on the delicate side, just right for smoked fish or other light seafood dishes, yet it feels rich and round on the palate. (Carlo Huber Selections, Salisbury, Conn.) 4. Jean Ginglinger Alsace Riesling Cuv�e Bihl 2009 The body craves riesling year-round, and if a delicate Mosel kabinett is the perfect spring wine, richer rieslings from Alsace can.t be beat in the fall. Even in a ripe vintage like 2009, this peachy, rich riesling is nonetheless earthy and dry with tantalizing mineral flavors. Choucroute garni, please. (Wineberry America, New York) 5. Champalou Vouvray 2010 I love Vouvray, Savenni�res and all the chenin blanc wines of the Loire Valley. Is there any grape with a texture as mesmerizing and seductive as chenin blanc? The best wines of Vouvray tease as they coat and envelop the tongue, almost thick yet lively and tense as well. This is dry and rounded, but delicate, too . the neat trick of chenin blanc . with honeysuckle, citrus and mineral flavors. Delicious. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.) 6. Domaine de Montbourgeau L.�toile 2008 Another great deal from the Jura, this is largely chardonnay with perhaps a little savagnin thrown in. Nicole D�riaux of Montbourgeau, from the L.�toile appellation, is one of my favorite Jura producers. Usually I choose her savagnin, made in the sous-voile style, under the veil of a sherry-style yeast, which gives the wines nutty, fino-like flavors. The chardonnay is tangy, dry and persistent. It has the twang of sous-voile, and though less severe than the savagnin, it still suggests the mystery and depth of the best Jura cuv�es. (Rosenthal Wine Merchant, New York) 7. Qup� Santa Maria Valley Chardonnay Bien Nacido .Y. Block 2010 Bob Lindquist.s real passion is Rh�ne grapes; he makes chardonnay to pay the bills, but he does a superb job. This is exemplary California chardonnay, with a detectable sheen of new oak, but the wine under the oak is packed with mineral goodness, which makes it highly enjoyable. 8. Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Valle Isarco Kerner 2011 According to .Wine Grapes,. an extraordinary new book from Jancis Robinson et al, the kerner grape, a cross between riesling and schiava grossa, was named after a 19th century doctor who wrote drinking songs. If that.s not enough to recommend it, this rich, ripe, persistently herbal and refreshing wine will do the rest. From a winery housed in an ancient monastery in Alto Adige, and just one of many treasures from the mountain vineyards of northern Italy. (Abbazia di Novacella U.S.A., Sausalito, Calif.) 9. Bebame El Dorado County Red 2011 A wonderfully fresh, deliciously gulpable wine from Eldorado County in the Sierra Foothills. It.s made mostly of cabernet franc, with a little gamay noir, and is lively and bright, with an herbal streak woven into the red fruit flavors. It.s low in alcohol, an almost unheard-of 12 percent for California, yet does not sacrifice structure. 10. Benanti Etna Rosso di Verzella 2009 I.m fascinated with the wines of Mount Etna, grown in the foothills of a highly active volcano, where belching steam and flowing lava are regular features. Nerello mascalese, the main red grape of Etna, seems to harness that energy, brimming with flavors of bitter cherries and stony earth. This is fresh and lightly textured yet rich and persistent, rough and rustic yet charming and expressive. (Tradizione Imports, New York) 11. Front�n de Oro Gran Canaria Tinto 2010 As exotic as Mount Etna may be for growing grapes, the Canary Islands are even more so. This archipelago is a region of Spain, but geologically and geographically it is part of Africa, just 60 miles off the southwest coast of Morocco. Gran Canaria is at the heart of the chain, warm but mountainous. This lovely, fresh red is made largely from the list�n negro grape, and is both lively enough to gulp down and complex enough to ponder. (A Jos� Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet, Richmond, Calif.) 12. Paumanok North Fork of Long Island Festival Red 2010 This is one brash Bordeaux blend from a very good Long Island producer. Eighty-four percent of the blend is split evenly between cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with 12 percent cabernet franc and 4 percent petit verdot, yet it.s the cabernet franc that grabs the attention with a strong herbal vein. Juicy and joyous, and topped with a screw cap. 13. Rainoldi Valtellina Superiore Sassella 2008 I.ve always liked the wines of Valtellina, but nowadays many producers seem to be really hitting their stride. This mountainous region in northern Lombardy is an excellent nebbiolo alternative to Barolo and Barbaresco, generally for a lot less money. Rainoldi makes gorgeous wines like this one from the Sassella zone, fine, balanced and beautifully aromatic. (Michael Skurnik Wines) 14. Se�or�o de P. Peci�a Rioja Crianza 2005 Such a pleasure when the producer ages the wine for you! This crianza is already seven years old and just right for drinking. In the old Rioja tradition, it tells the story of red raspberry fruit merging blissfully with the vanilla flavors of American oak. Aromas explode from the glass, yet the wine is mellow and fine. (A Jos� Pastor Selection/Vinos & Gourmet) 15. Clos de la Roilette Fleurie 2011 The wines of Fleurie, one of the 10 leading crus of Beaujolais, are habitually described as light, pretty, feminine and flowery. Perhaps, but in my experience the best Fleuries, like Alain Coudert.s Clos de la Roillette, are better described as structured and mineral. Nothing dainty about the 2011. It.s dense and a little tannic, smoky and spicy with aromas of licorice and granite. Superb, but consider decanting when young. (Louis/Dressner Selections, New York) 16. Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy 2009 I.m crazy about the wines of Domaine Ilarria from Iroul�guy, in the Basque Pyrenees as far southwest in France as you can go. It.s ros� is great, and this red, made of tannat, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, is superb. It.s tannic with deep red fruit, spice and iron flavors. Drink now or age, but it.s hard to find, so grab any and all. (A Thomas Calder Selection/Moonlight Wine, New York) 17. Domaine de Terrebrune Vin de Pays du Mont Caume Terre d.Ombre 2009 This very good Bandol producer also makes a cuv�e from vines of mourv�dre, grenache and cinsault that it considers too young for the Bandol. It.s called Terre d.Ombre, and it has an herbal, savage quality that belies the image of sunny Provence. A hearty wine for hearty stews. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) 18. Domaine de Ferrand C�tes du Rh�ne La Ferrande 2010 An anomaly: a C�tes du Rh�ne from the southern part of the Rh�ne Valley yet 100 percent syrah, as if from the northern Rh�ne. It.s rich yet focused and fresh . typical for the 2010 vintage, with black olive flavors yet fruitier than a northern Rh�ne wine. Imported in small quantities. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa.) 19. Di Filippo Montefalco Rosso 2009 Big and tannic, rich and robust, fruity yet well structured with a pleasant musk. If this Umbrian rosso doesn.t achieve quite the power of a sagrantino di Montefalco, its big brother, it.s still plenty sizable for stews and roasts. (A.I. Selections, New York) 20. Mastrojanni Rosso di Montalcino 2010 Sangiovese is a grape that touches me deep inside. Good Sangiovese wines, particularly from the Chianti or Montalcino regions, offer the sort of purity, honesty and authenticity that I find moving compared to the tricked-up confections that some producers seem to favor. This Rosso di Montalcino from Mastrojanni is indeed pure and honest, tannic yet approachable with bright cherry flavors that really could come from nowhere but the heart of Tuscany. (Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, N.Y.) This article has been revised to reflect the following correction: Correction: October 19, 2012 An earlier version of this article contained a photograph displaying an incorrect vintage of wine. The correct vintage is Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy 2009, not Domaine Ilarria Iroul�guy Cuv�e Bixintxo 2009. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

13 years, 1 month

[wine] 2010 OR Pinot

by Jim L. Ellingson

Apoligies for the formating or lack there of. Cheers, Jim 2010 Pinot Noir: The Chronicle recommends By Jon Bonnéublished 4:18 p.m., Friday, October 12, 2012 Oregon has enjoyed great Pinot Noir vintages before, for sure. The 2008 wines, for instance, inspired sheer glee amid members of our tasting panel a few years ago. But at what point does a great vintage, or a string of them, translate into a larger sense of greatness? I'm reminded of how Burt Williams of Williams Selyem described his hunt for great California Pinot Noir in the 1970s. He would find one for a vintage or two, and then it would revert to the ho-hum. "I surmised," he said, "that what they were doing, they were doing it right by accident one time." But with the 2010 vintage, there's solid evidence that Oregon has finally found a permanent footing. The wines aren't simply excellent; they show a concentration and depth that rise from being simply pleasurable to being profound. And they offer, as Patrick Comiskey asserted in last week's Food & Wine section (go to: sfg.ly/QSzbdA), a true sense of "Oregon-ness." This was a welcome discovery because for several years I've had more than a passing worry about Oregon's stature. For sure, bottles came my way that stood up after 10 or 20 years. Old wines from David Lett's Eyrie Vineyard, thought anemic in comparison to their flashier neighbors, radiated beauty a decade later, long after their counterparts had gone flat. The dense wines of Cristom, austere to some, routinely improved with time. Quieter wines from Domaine Drouhin Oregon, constructed by the Burgundian mind of Veronique Drouhin, blossomed with some bottle age. Gloriously pretty But for the most part, I encountered wines that faded quickly, even from fine vintages like 2002. While I used to uncork Oregon when I sought to poke a needle in California hubris - blame my lingering sense of Northwest pride - it became harder to do. Indeed, I drank up most of the old Oregon supply from my cellar, worried that I should pull corks before it was too late. Encountering the 2010s, then, was a restoration of faith that came just in time. I was joined by Trac Le of Bi-Rite Market and Joshua Haberman of Harris' Restaurant to taste about 50 wines. We found them gloriously pretty. These wines brim with delicate berry flavors and strong mineral components, wines that show the spice of volcanic Jory soils and the underbrush aromas that permeate Willamette Valley wines. More importantly, there is great structure: acidity that's in perfect balance, tannins that are firm but not stern. All this with alcohol levels that rarely creep above mid-13 percent. Vintage to cherish It is a surprise, frankly, that 2010 would be a vintage to cherish. Long, cold and with a late fruit set, it promised low yields and a struggle to reach ripeness. But that toil also yielded concentrated, subtle wines with layered flavors, helped by a cool summer and a clear October that provided extra ripening time. A nail-biter, sure, but greatness never came easy. To be fair, we did encounter a lot of dark-fruited, Dijon-clone muscle out there; it's nearly as endemic up north as down here. But that's not the only expression from all those vine selections of 115 and 777 (which, let's remember, migrated here from the north) and it is, I think, less a sign of innate quality than of style creep extending to the Northwest. Wineries in Dayton and Dundee that want to provide a lavish California mouthful with an Oregon address can, frankly, be easily discerned by their price tags. There is, yes, some price creep - although it was a relief to see how much quality exists in Oregon under $40, especially with cuvees that mix a variety of parcels. While the top wine in our tasting, the 2010 Beaux Freres, was also our most expensive at $80, we also found so much to like around $30 that I wondered at times if the prices were actually in euros. Those cuvees, by the way: Similar to what I've found in our Sonoma tastings, the willingness to blend multiple vineyards in Oregon is one of its strong points. Trading off geographic prestige for affordability - or, more likely, designating less-stellar barrels for a blend - is a winning proposition for winery and wine lover alike. If that's part of Oregon-ness, all the better. 2010 Beaux Freres the Beaux Freres Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir ($80, 13% alcohol): Beaux Freres has been on the edge of ambition in Oregon, but Mike Etzel is also making good on those ambitions, with pristine biodynamic farming of his 88-acre Ribbon Ridge site. An immensely pleasing, profound wine. Full of heady sage and birch bark, with raspberry, wild strawberry and a classy oak note that comes across as a subtle toast element. 2010 Evesham Wood Le Puits Sec Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ($36, 13%): For me, few wineries capture the transparency of Oregon flavors like this longtime producer, founded in 1986 and now owned by Erin Nuccio. The 2010 Puits Sec marks a transition year to Nuccio's hand. Gorgeous and deft - with a Volnay-like light touch. Bing cherry, dried sachet, watermelon rind and a distinct minerality. The 2010 Illahe Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($30, 13%), from a warmer site, is still subtle but with darker earth aspects. 2010 Raptor Ridge Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($25, 13%): Scott Shull's basic blend of 11 vineyard sites includes components from locales both famous (Shea) and lesser known. The result is a perfect snapshot of classic Oregon - floral, juicy and fresh, with wild strawberry and a fennel accent. And for that price? Stunning. 2010 Soter Mineral Springs Ranch Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir ($50, 13.4%): Tony Soter's Oregon effort found a great stride with the vintage and this 30-acre planting shows pristine, bright flavors from the old marine sandstone soils. Full of bayberry and a watermelon-skin grip, with celery seed and mineral accents that signal its Oregon soul. 2010 Chehalem Stoller Vineyards Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($48, 13.1%): Dundee's Stoller vineyard interpreted by Chehalem's Harry Peterson-Nedry is about as classic Oregon as you get, even with a new label. A high tannic load here portends some cellar time, but it's full of forest accents, carob and a truffle-like funk to match the great polished black cherry fruit. A suave effort that'll keep improving. 2010 JK Carriere Vespidae Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($42, 13%): Jim Prosser's blend of several sites (Shea, Temperance Hill, etc.), fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged in about 30 percent new oak, is sleek and juicy - full of dark cherry fruit. As it unwinds, there's cardamom and brown spice. A pristine effort worth cellaring. 2010 Luminous Hills Estate Grown Yamhill-Carlton District Pinot Noir ($28, 13.5%): Byron and Dana Dooley typically dry-farm their estate in McMinnville, and their mix of Dijon and Pommard clones show the lean muscularity of the vintage. There's ethereal fruit, but also wood spice and roasted cherry. It deftly manages to walk a tightrope between two competing styles of Oregon Pinot. 2010 Owen Roe The Kilmore Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($42, 13%): David O'Reilly's knack for crafting easy-to-please wines continues. This time the Kilmore taps two vineyards (Lenne and Merriman) aged in a mix of mostly older oak, for a lyrical, lush effort. Foresty underbrush, violets and a strong mineral component mix with dusky, heady fruit. A great example of the darker-hued flavors essential to the Oregon palette. 2010 Kramer Vineyards Yamhill-Carlton Pinot Noir ($20, 13%): This longtime property in Gaston, established in 1984, is on a surge - and for the price, this brings a welcome level of complexity. Welcome notes of curry leaf and mushroom, with a slightly austere side but one that will reward you on the table. 2010 Stoller JV Estate Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($25, 13.2%): Winemaker Melissa Burr nailed Stoller's younger-vine effort in this fine vintage. The style here is a bit more fashionable from 30 percent new oak, full of brown spice and carob, but quintessential pine-cone aromas balance out robust, warm cherry fruit that's rich but not heavy. 2010 Anam Cara Nicholas Estate Chehalem Mountains Pinot Noir ($32, 13.2%): A blend of five estate blocks, hinged on a range of Dijon clones and 20 percent Pommard. Aromatic, with the mulled-spice aspect often found in the Chehalem Mountains appellation is on display, plus a light-soy sauce note and sinewy red fruit. 2010 Adelsheim Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($32, 13.4%): With 12 estate parcels throughout Willamette Valley, David Adelsheim continues to earn his role as a kingmaker. There's a juiciness to this blend that shows the mark of a cold vintage, but also dried marjoram, pomegranate and a marked tannic structure. A stylistic wink at old-fashioned Oregon; time in the cellar will make it even better. 2010 Iota Cellars Pelos Sandberg Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir ($36, 12.9%): Iota's estate effort leans a bit on oak spice, but there's also a woodruff aspect and a robust, almost leathery, side to the fruit. Dense and stylish, with a steady hand of restraint. 2010 Brooks Janus Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35, 12.2%): Brooks wines can sometimes be hard to assess early on, and this latest Janus still needs time. But Jamie Brooks Heuck and winemaker Chris Williams found a subtle, polished expression: bayberry, juniper and a bay laurel savoriness, with just enough structure. Give it another year. 2010 Ponzi Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($35, 13.6%): This larger-production bottle (just shy of 8,300 cases) from the skilled hand of Luisa Ponzi, sourced from a range of sites, is a splendid, if tannic, snapshot of the vintage. Curry leaves, dry forest floor, with dusky bayberry and cherry skin. Dark fruit adds a sultry side. Cellar it. 2010 Broadley Estate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($30, 13.6%): This mix of the Broadleys' parcels near Monroe needs some air, but once it opens there's a complex and curious mix of chewy raspberry fruit, a mineral kick, dry moss and sweet lime. 2010 Le Cadeau Diversitéhehalem Mountains Pinot Noir ($48, 13.1%): This property near Newberg's Parrett Mountain continues its practice of assigning cuvees to several winemakers. Diversitéelongs to Raptor Ridge's Scott Shull (see above). Still shaking off its cellar time, but there's loamy depth to the bright cherry and raspberry fruit. It's of that oak-tinged (30 percent new), spic-and-span style, with wonderful tension to the palate. 2010Winderlea Winderlea Vineyard Dundee Hills Pinot Noir ($54, 13.2%): This rising label taps a range of sites, but its own vineyard, on Dundee's Jory soils, shows dense layers of flavor, thanks in part to consultant winemaker Robert Brittan (ex-Stags' Leap Winery). A dusky oak aspect is matched by clear red fruit and dry-underbrush complexity. Muscular for Oregon, but done with great finesse. 2010 Penner-Ash Willamette Valley Pinot Noir ($45, 13.5%): Lynn Penner-Ash's appellation blend from more than a dozen vineyards is expertly stitched together in her slightly flashier style. Beyond an oak imprint, there's warm sandalwood and fenugreek, and a cocoa tinge to subtle raspberry fruit. Seamless and classy. Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Joshua Haberman, wine director, Harris' Restaurant; Trac Le, wine buyer, Bi-Rite Market. Jon Bonnés The San Francisco Chronicle's wine editor. Find more of his coverage at sfgate.com/wine. E-mail: jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com Twitter: @jbonne Ads by Yahoo! © 2012 Hearst Communications Inc -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

13 years, 1 month

[wine] Bargain Bottles

by Jim L. Ellingson

aka wine for hte 99 percent. The "stars" are "r"s on my screen. C, J Bargain Bottles By Dav e McIntyre, Tuesday, October 9, 9:56 AM Bargain bottles ...Exceptional ...Excellent..Very Good Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor. Here.s my monthly list of bargain wines that over-perform for the price ($7 to $15). The Royal, Old Vines Steen 2012 r r 1 / 2 South Africa, $9 This is a tremendous little white wine, crisp and refreshing yet exuberant with fruit. Steen is a South African name for chenin blanc, and this wine conveniently puts both names on the label to avoid confusion. Ideal by itself or with casual foods, it comes with a warning: You will want to open a second one. Fortunately, the price is accommodating. South African chenin blanc may be one of the world.s best white wine values, and this wine shows why. Kysela: Available in the District at Magruder.s, Rodman.s, Whole Foods Markets (Foggy Bottom, P Street). Available in Maryland at Bo Brooks Lighthouse Liquors, Wells Discount Liquors and Wine Source in Baltimore; Cranberry Liquors in Westminster; Dunkirk Wine & Spirits; Port of Call Liquors in Solomons; Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington. Available in Virginia at Aldie Peddler in Aldie; Balducci.s, Fern Street Gourmet and the Winery in Alexandria; Cork & Fork in Gainesville; Grateful Red Wine & Gift Shop in Arlington; Town Duck in Warrenton. Finca os Cobatos, Mencia 2010 r r Monterrei, Spain, $15 Light but not slight, this red has plenty of cherry and black pepper flavors on a lithe frame. Mencia is a grape that thrives in northwestern Spain (Monterrei is in Galicia) and should appeal to fans of cabernet franc. Nice Legs: Available in the District at Cork & Fork, MacArthur Beverages, Paul.s; on the list at Estadio and Veritas. Available in Maryland at Bin 604 Wine Sellers and Wine Source in Baltimore, Capital Beer & Wine in Bethesda, Frederick Wine House. Available in Virginia at Chain Bridge Cellars in McLean, Opera House Gifts & Gourmet in Manassas; on the list at Bazin.s on Church in Vienna, Bilbo Baggins in Alexandria, Magnolia.s at the Mill in Purcellville. Josephine Dubois, Chardonnay 2011 r r Burgundy, France, $11 A terrific chardonnay with mouthwatering acidity and impeccable balance, this is an excellent wine for casual meals. M Touton Selection: Available in the District at Best D.C. Supermarket, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Rodman.s. Available in Maryland at Nick.s of Clinton in Waldorf, Old Farm Liquors and Westridge Liquors in Frederick, River Falls Seafood Market in Potomac, Rosewick Wine & Spirits in La Plata, Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington. Available in Virginia at Crystal City Wine Shop; Leesburg Vintner; Red, White & Bleu in Falls Church; the Vineyard in McLean. Rio Madre Graciano 2010 r 1 / 2 Rioja, Spain, $11 Its label looks old-fashioned, but this wine is fresh and fruity fun, an ideal partner to casual red-meat dishes such as burgers or steaks. Country Vintner: Available in the District at Calvert Woodley, Lion.s Fine Wine & Spirits, Pearson.s, Wagshal.s Market; on the list at Jaleo. Available in Maryland at Balducci.s, Georgetown Square Beer & Wine, and Beer, Wine & Co. in Bethesda; Belby.s Discount Beer & Wine and Village Beer & Fine Wine in Rockville; Bottle Shop in Potomac; Woodmoor Supermarket in Silver Spring. Available in Virginia at Curious Grape in Arlington, Unwined in Alexandria, all Wegmans stores. Villa San Martino, Pinot Grigio 2011 r 1 / 2 Venzia Giulia, Italy, $9 Fans of pinot grigio will love this textbook example with its refreshing acidity and modest but appealing fruit. It.s what a pinot grigio should be: fun and tasty. It will soon be available in 1.5-liter magnums for parties. Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, D.Vines, Rodman.s, U Street Wine & Beer, Wagshal.s Market, Watergate Wine & Beverage. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage and Cork & Fork in Bethesda, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg, Iron Bridge Wine Co. in Columbia, Wine Cellars of Annapolis. Available in Virginia at the Italian Store in Arlington, Norm.s Beer & Wine in Vienna, Oakton Wine Shop, Whole Foods Markets (Alexandria and Vienna). Piccolo Fiore Bianco di Sicilia r Sicily, Italy, $7 Crisp, racy and invigorating, this simple white wine is great with that before-dinner nosh and also simple seafood salads. J.W. Sieg: Available at all Whole Foods Market locations in the District and Virginia. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * * james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *

13 years, 1 month

[wine] Naked virgins

by Russell McCandless

Dear friends, Those who tweet and twitter were no doubt way ahead of me on this one, but Jeremy Seysses of Domaine Dujac got off the tweet of the wine year (so far) on the subject of harvest 2012 in Burgundy: http://www.drvino.com/2012/10/02/burgundy-2012-rain-hail-naked-virgins/#more -11468 Cheers, Russ

13 years, 2 months

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win October 2012