Merry Christmas!
Aged tawny, the lighter side of port
By Dave McIntyre
Special to The Washington Post
Tuesday, December 21, 2010; 12:27 PM
Second of two parts
Come here: Let me tell you a secret. Three little words that will win you the respect of wine lovers and help you understand why we seem capable of talking about nothing else.
Aged. Tawny. Port.
As I write this, I'm savoring Dow's 20-Year-Old Tawny, holding my glass up to the computer screen so the light shines through the last amber swirl of wine in the bowl. Its aromas suggest dried orange peel, clove, cardamom and pine. Do you like the smell of Christmas? Then aged tawny is for you.
Aged tawny is the opposite of vintage port. Vintage is aged in cask for only two years before bottling, with minimal exposure to oxygen. It is meant to age for years and even decades in the bottle (in your cellar after you pay for it, mostly) before it sheds its tannins and unfurls an exotic compote of dried fruits. Aged tawny is what the name suggests: It's mature, ready to drink as soon as you buy it.
Aged in 600-liter casks called pipes, the wine is drawn off, or racked, into large vats once a year so sediment can be removed, then returned to the pipes. In the process, about 3 percent of the wine is lost: some in the discarded sediment, the rest - the "angels' share" - to evaporation. Before the final blend is bottled (usually beginning six years after harvest), the pipes are topped off with younger and/or older wine, to balance the flavors and create a house style unaffected by vintage variation. (There is, of course, an exception to that practice; ports labeled "Colheita" are single-vintage aged tawnies.)
"The program is designed to create a product at the end that is independent of vintage quality, independent of temperature and humidity conditions in the intervening years while the wine aged," said Adrian Bridge, managing director of the Fladgate Partnership, which includes the port houses of Taylor Fladgate, Fonseca, Croft and Delaforce. "So in essence, we are not looking backward to the vintage conditions, but forward to the wine in the glass."
In an interview a few years ago, Bridge explained to me how aged tawny differs from vintage port. "Vintage port is rare, and we tend to drink it only on special occasions," he said. "Aged tawny, on the other hand, is lighter in style, which makes it more appealing in warmer weather, especially when served slightly chilled."
It was a late-spring interview, which explains Bridge's emphasis on warm weather. Since then, I have enjoyed aged tawny in all seasons, and though I agree that it tastes best when chilled, I find it ideal for dessert during cooler times. It pairs beautifully with apple pie, creme brulee, creamy cheeses, desserts based on nuts or dried fruits, and warm winter fires.
Tawny is aged in decades: 10 or 20 years old, mostly, but also 30 or 40. A 10-year-old tawny costs about $30, while 20-year-olds run close to $50. The difference between a 10 and a 20 is remarkable, as the dried-orange-peel and spice flavors become more pronounced. From 20 to 30, the gain is not really worth going up to $100 or more, while 40-year-olds are otherworldly in quality and price. The back label usually tells what year the wine was bottled, so you know how fresh it is.
As a gift-giving guide, if you love the person, buy a 10. If you really love him, get the 20. And if he has incriminating evidence that could ruin you, splurge on the 40. Some secrets, after all, are worth keeping hidden, while others, like aged tawny, should be shared.
food(a)washpost.com
Recommended aged tawny ports
Tuesday, December 21, 2010; 12:37 PM
In general, a 10-year-old tawny port will taste of roasted nuts, with some caramel and a hint of citrus and spice. A 20-year-old will emphasize dried citrus and exotic wood spice. Aged tawny can be savored over a few weeks: Keep the opened bottle in the refrigerator to preserve its freshness, and allow the wine to warm up somewhat before drinking. Aged tawny typically notes the bottling year on the back label; the more recent (within two or three years), the better.
Fonseca 20 Year Old
***
Portugal, $53
This really should be three stars with a rocket. Fonseca is a sister house of Taylor Fladgate, and the wines of both are made by David Guimaraens. Fonseca ports, however, tend to be more exuberant and lusty than the Taylors. The Fonseca 20 is seductive, with a lush palate and flavors of earth, wood, dried fig and tea. One sip of this, and life is good. If your store has only the 10 Year Old, don't hesitate to try it, but keep looking for the 20.
Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Calvert Woodley, Circle Wine & Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Martin's Wine & Spirits, Schneider's of Capitol Hill; on the list at CityZen, Kinkead's, Legal Seafoods, Morton's, Taberna del Alabardero.
Taylor Fladgate 20 Year Old
***
Portugal, $53
Richer than most, the Taylor's 20 keeps a stiff upper lip of respectability, coated with caramel and orange and seasoned with cloves and cardamom. The 10 Year Old ($30, 2 stars) is more widely available in stores and restaurants, and is also terrific.
Kobrand/Republic National: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Ace Beverage, Bell Wine & Spirits, Calvert Woodley, Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits, Continental Wine & Liquor, MacArthur Beverages, Magruder's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Washington Wine & Liquor; on the list at 1789, Bourbon Steak, Cafe Milano, Charlie Palmer Steak, Morton's, Occidental Grille, many others.
Sao Pedro Aged 10 Years
* 1/2
Portugal, $35-$37
This wine comes in an attractive bottle that is reusable as a decanter, making it an extra-nice gift. Don't let the flashy packaging fool you: The wine is quite good, tasting of creme caramel, roasted cashews and spice.
M. Touton Selection: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Barrel House Liquors, Bloomingdale Liquor, Cairo Wine & Liquor, Mayfair Liquors, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits, Watergate Wine & Beverage. Available in Maryland at the Bottle Shop in Potomac; Frederick Wine House; Meridian Market and Wine and Montgomery Gourmet Beer & Wine in Bethesda; the Perfect Pour in Elkridge; Pine Orchard Liquors in Ellicott City; Pinky's West Street Liquors in Annapolis; Richburn Discount Liquors in Columbia; Rodman's in White Flint; Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington; Sugarloaf Wine Cellar in Germantown; the Wine Shoppe in Waldorf. Available in Virginia at Arrowine and the Italian Store in Arlington; Balducci's locations in McLean and Alexandria; various Wegmans locations; Cork & Fork in Gainesville; Leesburg Vintner; Tastings and Round Hill Gourmet in Charlottesville; on the list at Julien's Cafe in Middleburg.
Dow's 20 Year Old
** 1/2
Portugal, $53
Dow's house style features an iodine, saline quality in both the 10- and 20-year-old tawnies, adding an intriguing note to the butterscotch and spicy citrus flavors.
Winebow: Available in the District at 1 W Dupont Circle Wine & Liquors, Bacchus Wine Cellar, Barmy Wines & Liquors, Bell Wine & Spirits, Burka's Wine & Liquor, Calvert Woodley, Chat's Liquors, Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Georgetown Wine & Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, PanMar Wine & Liquor, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Pearson's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits, Tunnel Wines & Spirits; on the list at Againn, Bistro Bis, Bistro La Bonne, Brasserie Beck, Cashion's Eat Place, Chef Geoff's and Chef Geoff's Downtown, Corduroy, Founding Farmers, Hook, Mendocino Grille, Mie 'N' Yu, Nage, New Heights, Oyamel, Posto, Ripple, Ristorante Tosca, Ruth's Chris, Veritas, Vinoteca.
Barros 10 Years Old
**
Portugal, $32
Fresh and rich, with cinnamon, orange peel and roasted nuts. Barros also has a 2000 Colheita on the market ($36). Though the 10-year-old is probably mostly from the same vintage, the wines are quite different. The colheita is deeper and more idiosyncratic, even a bit awkward at first; it smooths out a day or two after opening.
Dionysus: Available in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Cork & Fork, Schneider's of Capitol Hill. Available in Maryland at Bradley Food & Beverage, Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; on the list at Black's Bar & Kitchen in Bethesda. Available in Virginia at Whole Foods Market Springfield and Charlottesville; on the list at Columbus Grill and Espresso Cafe & Restaurant in Manassas.
Warre's Otima 10 Year Old
* 1/2
Portugal, $24-$30 (500 ml)
This widely available wine is a good introduction to aged tawny. Its two-thirds bottle means it's not really a bargain, even at the lower end of the price range, but 500 ml might be a more appropriate size for many drinkers. The Otima is dark and fully on the roasted-nuts side of the tawny flavor spectrum.
Vineyard Brands/Bacchus in the District and Maryland, Country Vintner in Virginia. Available in the District at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Best in Liquors, Circle Wine & Liquor, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Cork & Fork, Paul's of Chevy Chase, Pearson's, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, Sherry's Fine Wine & Spirits; on the list at the Army and Navy Club, Jockey Club, Veritas, Zentan. Available in Maryland at Cork & Fork in Bethesda; Grape Expectations in Gaithersburg; Franklin Liquors in Ijamsville; Bin 604 Wine Sellers, Ole Federal Hill Liquors, Wine Source and Mt. Washington Wine Co. in Baltimore; Columbia Palace Wine and Spirits; Cranbrook Liquors in Cockeysville; Maryland Discount Beverage Center in Cumberland; Longmeadow Wine & Liquors in Hagerstown; Beltway Fine Wine & Spirits in Timonium; Bin 201 Wine Sellers in Annapolis; Riverside Liquor and Viniferous in Frederick; Hair o' the Dog in Easton; on the list at Raku in Bethesda; Chesapeake Wine Co. and Hopkins Deli in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Fern Street Gourmet and the Winery in Alexandria, the Wine Seller in Herndon, Norm's Beer & Wine in Vienna.
Key
*** Exceptional ** Excellent * Very Good
Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through a distributor.
Madeira: The Chronicle recommends
Jon BonnéSunday, December 19, 2010
Left-right: Leacock's Madeira, Justino's Madeira Old Rese... Left-right: Broadbent Madeira Terrantez Old Reserve, 1996... Left-right: 2000 Malvasia Madeira Barbeito Colheita Singl... Henriques and Henriques Rainwater Madeira (left) and Broa... More...
Our panel lineup of 32 Madeiras underscored that the overall quality of this other fortified Portuguese wine has rarely been better. These 14 all excelled, but outside of the cheaper 3-year-old efforts (often marked for cooking) you'll find it easy to discover very good Madeira on local shelves.
For once, there's no concern about whether it's freshly arrived. Because it is oxidized by its nature, Madeira has the benefit of being a survivor - able to evolve in the bottle for decades.
Though prices aren't cheap, it's worth remembering that most of these wines average at least a decade old; also that, once opened, they remain fresh for months. That makes them a perfect holiday gift - one that can be opened right away and enjoyed straight into summer.
Henriques & Henriques Rainwater ($22): The old-time Rainwater style (so named because casks of the 18th century versions were thought to have absorbed rainfall) remains hard to define; often it's forgettable, but the historic Henriques house has a fresh, floral version that brings just enough of Madeira's classic tang to be refreshing as an aperitif. (Importer: Europvin)
Leacock's 5 Year Old Full Rich ($24): Though John Leacock sailed for Madeira in 1741 and his family established one of the island's top shipping houses, this is now one of four brands under the umbrella of the Madeira Wine Co., established in 1925. The burnished color telegraphs rich caramel and sugarcane that matches its sweeter style, with a layered orange-peel tang. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
Broadbent Five Year Reserve Fine Rich ($25): Madeira authority Michael Broadbent turned to the house of Justino's Henriques to produce his namesake line. This five-year bottling is intensely fruited, with lemon peel and nectarine, plus a green accent - think mint leaf or pine - and a savory edge. (Importer: Broadbent Selections)
Vinhos Justino's Henriques 10 Year Old Reserve ($27): Justino's is a relative newcomer to Madeira, having been formed in 1870. But its profile is ascendent again. Here's a sister wine of sorts to the Broadbent Five-Year, made mostly from Tinta Negra Mole. A mouthwatering intensity - full of chestnut, orange peel, luxurious cocoa, apricot, with a profound iodine bite as counterpoint. (Importer: HGC Wines)
1996 Vinhos Justino's Henriques Colheita ($39): Colheitas are single-vintage Madeira, and here's a fine introduction, full of layered citrus (citron, Meyer lemon, tangelo) plus a distinct spicy side - nutmeg, peach and ginger. Just sweet enough to work with, or before, dessert. (Importer: HGC Wines)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series Charleston Sercial ($46.50): Importer Mannie Berk reached out to Ricardo Freitas, owner of the house of Barbeito, to produce his Historic Series line, which remains the best value in Madeira. This is the driest in the Historic lineup, made from the Sercial grape, and its slight austerity makes it remarkably versatile. Leathery and wound-up, with a salty mineral power - think of it with a holiday roast. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
Henriques & Henriques 10 Years Old Verdelho ($38): Henriques' true potential often shows up in its 10-year range, the sorts of bottles that you want to keep on a shelf for a regular sip. The rare Verdelho grape is just shy of fully dry, and there's just enough sweetness to bring out pineapple and butterscotch aromas that balance scents of dried flowers and pine bark. Lively and complex. (Importer: Europvin)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series New Orleans ($60): If you can choose just one bottle, this is the one. This year marks only the second time that New Orleans, made mostly from the virtually nonexistent Terrantez grape, has been released. It's almost meaty, full of scents of lobster mushroom, dried apple, quince and citron. Impressively dry in its character, with hints of robust, aged sweetness and a hearty wood character, like smelling a favorite oak chest. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
Broadbent Terrantez Old Reserve ($225): Broadbent harnesses old stocks of rare Terrantez for this exceptional treat. Intense and layered, with a tropical fruit edge to lemon and jasmine, plus menthol and apricot. Opulent but not thick-textured, with gorgeous brightness. (Importer: Broadbent Selections)
1997 Cossart Gordon Colheita Single Harvest Bual ($39): Cossart Gordon, arguably the oldest of the Madeira shippers and now another of the Madeira Wine Co. labels, is better known for its nonvintage wines, but this 1997 is full of briny tang - more than you'd expect for the somewhat sweet Bual. Lots of iodine and hazelnut, papaya and burnt orange, with an intense acidity to enliven it. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
1968 Blandy's Vintage Bual ($220): Blandy's, a key partner in the Madeira Wine Co., is probably the most established label from the island, with ample stocks to bottle this 42-year-old effort just six years ago after an intricate aging process. Full of dry honeycomb and peat moss-like scents, it's a fully evolved effort, with profound acidity matched to a dry woody character that speaks of its age. (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
The Rare Wine Co. Historic Series New York Malmsey ($46.50): The New York Malmsey (a.k.a. Malvasia) is the sweetest in the Historic Series lineup. Despite notes of roasted pineapple and agave nectar, it's packed with savory tones - winter melon and sea salt, with a raging acidity that balances the sweet profile, making it thoroughly versatile. Almost steely at its core. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
2000 Barbeito Single Cask 44a Malvasia ($54): Barbeito's Ricardo Freitas is pioneering another effort: the bottling of individual casks of Madeira, not unlike the Equipo Navazos endeavor in Jerez. Cask 44A showed an impressive evolution after a hot 2007 summer, prompting a decision to bottle it separately. Intense and fresh, full of iris and chamomile aromas, with darker mineral accents, sesame, pear and Seville orange. Racy and unique. (Importer: Rare Wine Co.)
1985 Blandy's Vintage Malmsey ($150): Bottled in 2009, this is a fine example of how a large house like Blandy's can excel with colheita (single-vintage) efforts. Though made from sweet Malmsey, it's perceptibly dry and mouthwatering, full of saline and cracker-crumb savory character, with citrus and subtle caramel. Lovely spice-box aromas round it out. There's also the more affordable 1994 Malmsey ($48). (Importer: Premium Port Wines)
Panelists: Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Andy Booth, wine buyer, The Spanish Table; Paul Einbund, wine director, Slanted Door Restaurant Group; Daniel O'Brien, wine and spirits director, Cavallo Point.
Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. Find him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or twitter.com/jbonne.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2010/12/19/FD6U1GR6A7.DTL
This article appeared on page K - 9 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
Or should I say dinrkonomics?
Who knew there was an Am. Assoc. of Wine Economists?
Cheers,
Jim
DECEMBER 16, 2010, 10:30 AM
Freakonomics Radio: Do More Expensive Wines Taste Better?
By STEPHEN J. DUBNER
Photo: Geoffrey Fairchild
Podcast Freakonomics Radio
Do More Expensive Wines Taste Better?: They should! It.s a cardinal rule: more expensive items are supposed to be qualitatively better than their cheaper versions.
Download/Subscribe at iTunes »
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The latest Freakonomics Radio podcast is called .Do More Expensive Wines Taste Better?. (You can download/subscribe at iTunes, get the RSS feed or listen live via the link in box at right.)
When you take a sip of Cabernet, what are you tasting? The grape? The tannins? The oak barrel? Or the price?
Believe it or not, the most dominant flavor may be the dollars. Thanks to the work of some intrepid and wine-obsessed economists (yes, there is an American Association of Wine Economists), we are starting to gain a new understanding of the relationship between wine, critics and consumers.
One of these researchers is Robin Goldstein, whose paper detailing more than 6,000 blind tastings reaches the conclusion that .individuals who are unaware of the price do not derive more enjoyment from more expensive wine..
So why do we pay so much attention to critics and connoisseurs who tell us otherwise?
That.s the question we set out to answer in this podcast. Along the way, you.ll hear details about Goldstein.s research as well as the story of how his .restaurant. in Milan, Osteria L.Intrepido, won an Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator magazine. (Not how you think!)
Also featured: Steve Levitt, who admits his palate is .underdeveloped,. describing a wine-tasting stunt he pulled on his elders at Harvard.s Society of Fellows.
Also, you.ll hear from wine broker Brian DiMarco (featured in the forthcoming documentary Escaping Robert Parker) who pulled a stunt of his own on his very wine-savvy employees. DiMarco also walks us through the mechanics of the wine-purchase business, and describes how price is often a far-too-powerful signal to our taste buds.
A couple of very interesting interviews didn.t make the podcast but are worth a mention here. One was with the noted Princeton economist (and wine buff) Orley Ashenfelter*, who spoke about our general overreliance on experts, whether they.re in the wine field or far beyond:
I mean, S&P, Moody.s, Fitch, these people all rated securities that apparently completely tanked. So there.s obviously something in the demand for expertise, the imprimatur, which is not really about the fact that they do a good job. By the way, those organizations are not transparent either, just as the Wine Spectator isn.t. So there.s some similarity here that I think probably gives us a little insight into things that are much broader than wine and food.
The other interview was with George Taber, author of the fascinating book Judgment of Paris: California vs. France and the Historic 1976 Paris Tasting That Revolutionized Wine. He recalled the moment he realized that even the most sophisticated wine experts can have feet of clay:
And there was just one classic moment when one of the French judges by the name of Raymond Oliver, who was the owner of the Le Grand Vefour restaurant, he had a television show on food in France, he was a big thing in French wine and food circles. He had a white wine in front of him. He looked at the white wine, then he held it up to a light to look at the color very closely. Then he took a sip of it. Then he held it up again. Then he said in French, .Ah, back to France.. And I looked down at my scorecard and he.d just tasted the 1972 Freemark Abbey Chardonnay.
Wishing you the happiest of holiday seasons, and urging you to spend $15 instead of $50 on your next bottle of wine. Go ahead, take the money you save and blow it on the lottery.
* You can hear Ashenfelter in a related Marketplace piece that aired recently.
Stephen J. Dubner is an author and journalist who lives in New York City. Follow @freakonomics on Twitter.
Do More Expensive Wines Taste Better?
Evidence from a Large Sample of Blind Tastings
Robin Goldstein
.
, Johan Almenberg
.
, Anna Dreber
.
,
John W. Emerson
.
, Alexis Herschkowitsch
.
, and Jacob Katz
.
April 18, 2008
Abstract. Individuals who are unaware of the price do not derive more
enjoyment from more expensive wine. In a sample of more than 6,000 blind
tastings, we find that the correlation between price and overall rating is small
and negative, suggesting that individuals on average enjoy more expensive
wines slightly less. For individuals with wine training, however, we find
indications of a positive relationship between price and enjoyment. Our results
are robust to the inclusion of individual fixed effects, and are not driven by
outliers: when omitting the top and bottom deciles of the price distribution, our
qualitative results are strengthened, and the statistical significance is improved
further. Our results indicate that both the prices of wines and wine
recommendations by experts may be poor guides for non-expert wine
consumers.
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------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
FYI/FYE
December 7, 2010
Alluring Burgundies in Low Places
By ERIC ASIMOV
SIMPLY uttering the word Burgundy conjures up storied names that have beguiled wine lovers for centuries: Chambertin and La T�che, Le Montrachet and Musigny. These wines can cost hundreds if not thousands of dollars. The memories, it must be said, are priceless.
Yet the word Burgundy just as easily suggests humble Bourgogne. In the grand hierarchical scheme of Burgundy.s appellation system, bottles simply labeled Bourgogne represent the lowest forms of the region.s pinot noir and chardonnay. They generally run $15 to $35, though occasionally are quite a bit more.
Theoretically, at least, they would offer generic expressions of Burgundy, possessing few of the distinctive characteristics that shape and define the more narrowly drawn appellations. This might suggest that these wines are best ignored.
Yet, as the British wine authority Hugh Johnson so aptly puts it, .Do not despise.. If the memories they produce are not exactly inestimable, the wines can thoroughly satisfy and be an excellent introduction to Burgundy.s charms.
On the top rung of the ladder of Burgundy.s appellation hierarchy are the grand cru vineyards, like Le Montrachet and Musigny, signifying the finest, most distinctive terroirs. On the lowest rung is Bourgogne, indicating wines made from grapes that can come from anywhere within the boundaries of Burgundy.
In theory, the lowliest grand cru or even village wine should always be better than the best Bourgogne. But the hierarchy is simply a measure of potential. In practice, the rule in Burgundy and just about everywhere else is producer, producer, producer.
Bourgognes from top producers can be superb. I.ve had captivating ones from Leroy, Michel Lafarge and Coche-Dury, and the Bourgognes of Henri Jayer are legendary, even more so now that they are no longer produced. Still, Bourgognes, whether red or white, rarely have the extra dimensions of pleasure and insight that come from putting aromas and flavors together with particular plots of earth. The appellation system, in the end, has a great deal of logic to it.
Often, the desirability of Bourgogne wines comes down to the usual price-to-value ratio. What are you getting for the money? In a recent tasting, the Dining section.s wine panel sought answers by sampling 20 bottles of Bourgogne from the 2008 vintage . 10 white and 10 red. Florence Fabricant and I were joined by Michael Madrigale, the sommelier at Bar Boulud, and Juliette Pope, wine director at Gramercy Tavern.
The 2008 vintage was an odd one, reminiscent of decades past when cool weather and rain made ripening difficult. Even 25 years ago, the vintage might have been a washout, but vastly improved viticulture and cellar work not only salvaged a decent but small crop, but also resulted in wines that can be quite good.
Nonetheless, we found a pronounced difference in quality between the reds and the whites, with the disclaimer that any generalizations are based on an admittedly small sample. The whites seemed both fresh and rich, displaying the purity and minerality that one seeks in white Burgundy. We would even be happy to drink the five whites that did not make our list.
The reds, on the other hand, were less consistent. Our favorites were attractive, with sweet red fruit, well-integrated oak, and mineral and herbal flavors. On the other end were weedy, seemingly under-ripe wines with none of the pleasure of the lower-end whites. All the reds, and the whites, too, showed plenty of acidity. The trick, for the reds at least, was achieving enough body and fruit for balance.
For his part, Michael said he found just what he had hoped for in the wines: .They showed the characteristics of the vintage. That.s all I really want.. Speaking of the reds, he noted the high acidity and under-ripe flavors. .I don.t want to taste manipulations to make them more palatable,. he added. .These are real wines..
That attitude might seem a bit academic, but that.s one of the beauties of Burgundy. You want wines that are true not only to their terroirs, but also to their vintages. Nonetheless, you must choose carefully among the reds if you want pleasure as well.
Juliette was a little easier on the reds than Florence or I was, though she conceded she had a soft spot for them. Speaking of both the reds and whites, she said: .They were true to type and terroir, with a purity of fruit and minerality. They.re refreshing and great for the table..
Certainly that was true of our top wines. Our No. 1 white, from the reliably excellent Jean-Philippe Fichet, was fresh and vibrant, with just enough richness to suggest the grapes had come from the C�te-de-Beaune rather than the M�connais. Our No. 2 white, from Beno�t Ente, was tense and tightly coiled, with pure fruit and mineral flavors. They are not inexpensive at $27 and $32, but as good, young white Burgundies they seemed to me to offer excellent value.
Nonetheless, our best value white at $18 was our No. 3 bottle, from Thierry & Pascale Matrot, which, if it did not have the energy of the Fichet or Ente, did not lack for savory flavors.
Among the reds, our best value at $17 was also our favorite, the Billard-Gonnet Vieilles Vignes, a textbook red Burgundy, with pure, sweet red fruit along with a touch of herbal and mineral flavors for complexity.s sake. Both our No. 2, G�rard Mugneret, and No. 3, Virgile Lignier-Michelot, showed more intensity of flavor, but lacked the finesse and balance of the Billard-Gonnet. These top reds, too, are good values and worth seeking out.
By the way, our very pleasing No. 4 red came from Domaine Roulot, a superb producer better known for its whites. Somehow, we missed the Roulot Bourgogne blanc in our tasting, But I highly recommend that wine as well.
While I said Bourgognes represented the lowest form of the region.s pinot noir and chardonnay wines, it is possible to go even lower on the appellation hierarchy. Those would be the blends: Bourgogne Passetoutgrains, pinot noir with gamay; Bourgogne Aligot�, generally aligot� with chardonnay, and Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire, a blend with many possibilities.
Even with these appellations of low esteem, the producer counts greatly. I recently drank a 2006 Bourgogne Aligot� from Domaine Leroy, one of the best producers in Burgundy. The wine? Surprisingly rich, pleasantly complex, absolutely delicious.
Tasting Report
WHITES
Jean-Philippe Fichet, $27, *** �
Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes 2008
Fresh, vibrant and delicious with rich texture and balanced, lingering mineral flavors. (A Rare Wine Company Selection/Vieux Vins, Vineburg, Calif.)
Beno�t Ente, $32, ***
Bourgogne 2008
Tightly coiled and pure with fresh flavors of apples, minerals and oak. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/U.S.A. Wine Imports, New York)
BEST VALUE
Thierry & Pascale Matrot, $18, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Lean and firm with savory aromas of lemon, herbs and minerals. (Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, Ala.)
Joseph Faiveley, $17, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Well-knit with long, lingering flavors of herbs, citrus and earth. (Wilson-Daniels, St. Helena, Calif.)
Bernard Moreau & Fils, $27, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Racy and round with flavors of hazelnut, citrus and apples. (The Sorting Table, Napa, Calif.)
REDS
BEST VALUE
Billard-Gonnet, $17, ***
Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes 2008
Aromas and flavors of sweet red fruit, herbs, flowers and minerals. (Vintage Trading, New York)
G�rard Mugneret, $25, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Aromas of earthy red fruit, silky texture and prominent acidity. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Virgile Lignier-Michelot, $23, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Intense fruit flavors with cinnamon and mineral accents. (A Becky Wasserman Selection/Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Domaine Roulot, $30, ** �
Bourgogne 2008
Flavors of red fruit, herbs and dried flowers with plenty of acidity. (Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, Calif.)
Marchand Fr�res, $17, ** �
Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes 2008
Full-bodied with lingering flavors of red fruit and more than a touch of oak. (Margate Wines and Spirits, Atlantic City, N.J.)
Greetings,
Louise and I are celibrating birthdays soon.
Any interest in brunch on Sunday? Sparkling and other brunch worthy wines.
It appears La Fougasse (at Sofitel) is no more.
Brunch at Al Vento may be an option, is about half the price ($14 w/ a bottomless mimosa!).
http://www.alventorestaurant.com/content/brunch
Open to other options.
Cheers,
Jim
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
* james(a)brewingnews.com James.Ellingson(a)StThomas.edu *
