win June 2009

win@thebarn.com

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by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI Domestic Pinot Blanc Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, May 31, 2009 More... Though widely produced in Alsace, Italy and increasingly in Germany, Pinot Blanc is under the radar in the United States. This white grape is a mutation of Pinot Gris, which itself is a mutation of Pinot Noir. In short, a Pinot Noir cousin twice-removed. Like Pinot Noir, Pinot Blanc does best in cool regions where it can retain its zippy acidity - a hallmark of European-produced bottlings. Winemakers can vinify (often riper) Pinot Blanc similarly to Chardonnay - in oak barrels, on lees and with malolactic fermentation. Others prefer a lighter, crisper style. No matter the style, American Pinot Blanc is not yet in great demand. Domestically, it is still searching for its best expression. Some bottlings are bright gems and others are hidden beneath a layer of oak. But like many other varietals, this cousin twice-removed will continue to be made in a range of styles. 2008 Bethel Heights Vineyard Eola-Amity Hills Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($16) In 1977 two families established Bethel Heights Vineyard northwest of Salem, Ore., eventually producing cool weather varietals including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Blanc. A rich, deep fruit nose of peach, apricot and apple also show on the palate, which is highlighted by oak and palate-cleansing acidity on the lingering finish. 2006 Chalone Vineyard Chalone Pinot Blanc ($22) The historic Chalone Vineyard is 1,800 feet above the Salinas Valley. Now owned by Diageo, it is the sole winery in its eponymous appellation and features Monterey County's oldest producing vineyard. Delicate vanilla-scented pear crisp aromas and flavors with rather obvious oak seasonings on the palate. 2007 Etude Carneros Pinot Blanc ($38) Founded by Tony Soter more than 25 years ago, this winery is perhaps best known for Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon. Winemaker Jon Priest used estate fruit from Alsatian clones grown in the cool Carneros appellation in this limited-production wine. Elements of gold apple and bright citrusy fruit are underscored by subtle oak in this well-crafted wine that is rich but remains light on its feet. Great balance. 2007 Ponzi Vineyards Willamette Valley Pinot Blanc ($17) Second-generation winemaker Luisa Ponzi decided to make Pinot Blanc in 1990 after she studied in Burgundy. This crisp, balanced bottling offers a lilting sweet nose of Bosc pear and golden apple, with a nicely fruited palate. A firm, almost steely finish. 2007 Valley of the Moon Sonoma County Pinot Blanc ($18) This winery dates back to 1863 when vineyards were planted. It underwent major renovation in 1997 from owner Gary Heck, who also owns Kenwood Vineyard, Korbel and Lake Sonoma Winery. The aromatic nose of this medium-bodied wine has a solid core of fruit with infiltration of light spice; Ruby Red grapefruit and peel on the finish. - Lynne Char Bennett, lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/31/FDK317OVT5.DTL This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle © 2009 Hearst Communications Inc. | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site Index | Contact -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

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win June 2009