win June 2009

win@thebarn.com

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by Jim L. Ellingson

If you're putting red meat on the barby, these might be more in line. Australian Shiraz $20 and less Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, June 14, 2009 More... Father's Day celebrations involve a grill, usually with meat over the fire. Syrah - called Shiraz in Australia and some other wine regions - is a great match. This berry-packed wine is Australia's major red. It can include aromas and flavors of earth, pepper, smoke and game. While jammy, fruit-forward Shiraz can still be found, many producers seem to be throttling back a bit, bottling a good bit of fruit with enough acidity to give it some zip as well as tannin for structure and texture. Australia led the screw cap trend even on expensive wines. A majority of the more affordable ones can be opened with just a twist of the wrist (about 85 percent of the wines we tasted were bottled with screw caps). There is a plethora of Australian Shiraz bottlings priced $20 and less. These will complement your Dad's Day grilling. 2007 Banrock Station South Eastern Australia ($6.99). This popular former sheep ranch in South Australia offers a readily available wine with plenty of cherry and spice with hints of oak. Not overly fruited, not too tannic, just right for the table or to be enjoyed on its own. (Importer: International Cellars/Constellation Wines Australia) 2008 d'Arenberg Stump Jump McLaren Vale Shiraz ($11). The d'Arenberg family's wine legacy in McLaren Vale dates back to the early 1900s. Chester Osborn is its current head. Workhorse bottling Stump Jump is a great everyday food wine. Subtle nose of ripe fruit with rich, New World leanings; balanced and not overblown. Just as good a value is the serious 2006 d'Arenberg Footbolt McLaren Vale Shiraz ($19). (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2008 Layer Cake South Australia Shiraz ($15) For this wine's third vintage, winemaker Jayson Woodbridge, used more than 90 percent McLaren Vale fruit sourced from small growers. Aged in 50 percent new French oak, which adds layers of spice to the deep blackberry, plum and dark chocolate aromas and flavors. Rich, with weight, substance and long finish, it has plenty of fruit to take on barbecue with aplomb. (Importer: Vintage Point) 2007 Kilikanoon Killerman's Run South Australia Shiraz ($20). Owner/winemaker Kevin Mitchell founded Kilikanoon in 1997 in the Clare Valley region. On the growing side of the winery's primary 230 acres is Mitchell's father, Mort - who lays claim to the eponymous Mort's Block. This bottling, though meant to be enjoyed in its youth, has a rich enough blackberry core and slightly grippy tannins to see a few years of aging. Pepper, oak shadings and bacon-y hints overlay the fruit; almost plush on the palate with a touch of heat on the finish. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2007 Penley Estate Hyland Coonawarra Shiraz ($20). Penley Estate founder Kym Tolley has made wine for 36 years, including a stint at Penfolds from 1973 until 1988. Tolley first released the Hyland Shiraz in 1990, just a couple of years after starting his winery. This bottling is subtle and refined. Both nose and palate show some complexity; bright with a bit of floral perfume, spice, dark ripe berry with mocha hints. Balanced and well put together. (Importer: Old Bridge Cellars) 2006 West Cape Howe Western Australia Shiraz ($15). This winery - built in 1997 - was Western Australia's first contract winemaking facility. Head winemaker Gavin Berry's workhorse bottling has the fruit, body and structure to support the blackberry, spice and loamy hint. An outstanding performer for its price, as are its two West Cape Howe siblings - the 2007 Zeepaard Shiraz ($10) and 2006 West Cape Howe Two Steps Great Southern Shiraz-Viognier ($18). (Importer: The Country Vintner/Grape Expectations) Lynne Char Bennett is a Chronicle staff writer. E-mail her at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/06/14/FDO1182NE0.DTL This article appeared on page E - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Pinks w/ Panache, Panachee, Panachio, plumage, etc.

by Jim L. Ellingson

A Whiter Shade of Red By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, June 17, 2009 We seem to be getting over our hang-ups about pink wine. And that's a good thing, though perhaps with a (slight) downside. U.S. sales of imported roséines increased 42 percent in the past year, according to a study commissioned by the Provence Wine Council. A self-serving survey, perhaps, because Provence is the land of roséBut an enlightening one, because it shows how Americans' perceptions of wine are changing. No longer does pink wine mean the sweet pablum of white zinfandel. We apparently have embraced the idea of rosés a dry semi-white wine with red characteristics. A good roséan be an ideal end to a sweaty workday and an electrifying start to a summer supper. It can transform your mood from glum to cheerful in a single sip, transferring the cares from your shoulders to the setting sun as it seeps into the horizon. We love roséecause we are becoming more comfortable with wine. The world's greatest wines engage our intellects as well as our senses, but roséill have none of that. It is pure, unadulterated fun. While a high-scoring cult wine may offer gobs of this and layers of that, a well-chilled roséaptures the summer sun, whether reflected off the Mediterranean at a plaza cafe along the Cote d'Azur or off a backyard swimming pool in Upper Marlboro. Rosés the essence of summer. What is the downside of all this? As rosébecome more popular, more of them become available in our market, and their quality varies. The good news about that bad news is that as I've tasted my way through a bunch of rosénow on retail shelves, I have found very few inferior ones, just a lot of pleasant ones. And some exciting ones. So what should you consider in an Old World rosé(I will discuss New World rosénext week.) Vintage matters, but not as much as you might think. The common wisdom is that rosés best the year after the harvest, so you'll see many 2008s on retail shelves this summer. But many 2007s are drinking beautifully right now, and because of the market bias for young rosétheir prices may be discounted. Don't overlook them. Color really doesn't matter. Rosérange from a vibrant, translucent red to an ethereal pale hue. Some people say the palest roséare the best, but that is a matter of taste. Tavel, a town in the southern Rhone Valley, is known for deep-colored, vibrant rosé while Bandol, a bit farther south along the Mediterranean coast east of Marseille, produces wines of a light, delicate color. Both can be excellent. A true rosés bled, not blended. The winemaker bleeds off the juice from the skins of red grapes (a wine's color comes from the grape's skin) after a short maceration. (The notable exception is sparkling wines, such as champagne, that do mix red and white varieties in their rosé) The European Commission created a scandal recently by proposing to legalize the blending of red and white grapes to make roséable wine; an outcry by producers and customers forced officials to withdraw the idea. Rosés either an intentional creation or a byproduct of red wine production. A winemaker who intends to make roséill pick the grapes just as ripening begins, when they retain vibrant acidity and sugar levels are not too high. If a red is the goal, the winemaker picks the grapes later, when sugar levels are higher, then bleeds off a portion of the juice immediately after crushing in order to concentrate the flavors and color in the remaining juice. In the past, that bled-off juice was discarded or sold to make bulk wine, until wineries realized that roséas marketable. Those latter roséare often called "saignee," from the French word for "to bleed," even though that term applies to the technique by which all roséare made. They are often quite pleasant. But they rarely offer the excitement and liveliness of wines that were intended to be pink. Dave McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, June 17, 2009 Domaine Lucien Lardy "Opaline" 2008 *** Beaujolais-Villages, France, $13 (Great Value) Salmon color, with an intriguing nose of wild strawberry and mint, followed by a vibrant expression of the gamay grape with citrus, clove and cardamom. Exotic for a rosécombining traditional structure with modern fruity exuberance. There are more classic rosé but few better. The grapes are from vines averaging 50 years of age. Wine Traditions: available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg; available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean. Jean-Luc Colombo, 2008 *** Cote Bleue, France, $12 (Great Value) Exotic aromas of orange peel and cardamom, enticing balance and mouth-filling fruit that belies the pale salmon color. Republic National: available in the District at Circle Wine & Liquor, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Morris Miller Wine & Liquor, Rodman's; on the list at Cafe du Parc, Cedar, Juniper, L'Enfant Cafe-Bar. Available in Virginia at Wegmans locations. Alain Jaume et Fils "Clos de Sixte" 2008 ** Lirac, France, $27 Vibrant deep red color, mouth-filling and exuberant; a textbook rosérom the southern Rhone Valley. Kysela: available in the District at Calvert Woodley; on the list at Michel Richard Citronelle. Available in Maryland at Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis. Available in Virginia at Out of Site Wines in Vienna, Vineyard of Virginia in McLean, Wegmans locations; on the list at Eiffel Tower Cafe in Leesburg, Tallula in Arlington. Domaine de Cambis, "La Vie en Rose" 2008 ** Saint-Chinian, France, $16 Pale and delicate in color and flavor, with strawberry, watermelon and cherry along with a hint of salty sea air. OSLO Enterprise/Voila Collection: available in the District at Ace Beverage, Bell Wine & Spirits, MacArthur Beverages. Available in Maryland at Franklin's Restaurant, Brewery and General Store in Hyattsville, Rip's Wine and Spirit Shop in Bowie, Iron Bridge Wine in Columbia, Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in Annapolis, the Wine Source and Bin 604 in Baltimore; on the list at Cafe de Paris in Columbia. Mas de Gourgonnier 2007 ** Les Baux-de-Provence, France, $10 (Great Value) Discounted because it is considered ancient at the grand old age of two. Maturity suits it well, with intriguing flavors of wood spice and wild fruit. Organic. Dionysus: available in the District at various Whole Foods Market locations; on the list at Restaurant Nora. Available in Maryland at MOM's in Rockville; available in Virginia at MOM's in Alexandria, Whole Foods Market locations. 1+1=3 Cabernet Sauvignon Rosado 2008 * 1/2 Penedes, Spain, $16 Modern in style: full-bodied for a roséwith sappy, sweet-ripe fruit. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at Bell Wine & Spirits, Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, MacArthur Beverages, Schneider's of Capitol Hill, various Whole Foods Markets, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Bodega, Jaleo, La Tasca (all area locations), Taberna del Alabardero. Available in Maryland at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg. Available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Whole Foods Markets; on the list at El Manantial in Reston. Masciarelli Rosé'Abruzzo 2008 * 1/2 Abruzzo, Italy, $12 A delightful, refreshing quaffer with a "Fritalian" name. Juicy and fun. Constantine: widely available, including in the District at Cleveland Park Wine and Spirits, De Vinos, Marvelous Market (Georgetown), Yes! Organic Market (Brookland); in Maryland at Chesapeake Wine Co., Grand Cru and the Wine Source in Baltimore. Finca Torremilanos Montecastrillo Rosado 2008 * 1/2 Ribera del Duero, Spain, $15 Bright strawberry-red color and exuberant fruit; slightly tart but an excellent foil for acidic foods such as olives and anchovies. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at MacArthur Beverages, Wide World of Wines; available in Maryland at Silesia Liquors in Fort Washington, Spirits of Mount Vernon in Baltimore; available in Virginia at Arrowine in Arlington, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean, Food Matters in Alexandria. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Science vs "healthy consumption"

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI June 16, 2009 Alcohol.s Good for You? Some Scientists Doubt It By RONI CARYN RABIN By now, it is a familiar litany. Study after study suggests that alcohol in moderation may promote heart health and even ward off diabetes and dementia. The evidence is so plentiful that some experts consider moderate drinking . about one drink a day for women, about two for men . a central component of a healthy lifestyle. But what if it.s all a big mistake? For some scientists, the question will not go away. No study, these critics say, has ever proved a causal relationship between moderate drinking and lower risk of death . only that the two often go together. It may be that moderate drinking is just something healthy people tend to do, not something that makes people healthy. .The moderate drinkers tend to do everything right . they exercise, they don.t smoke, they eat right and they drink moderately,. said Kaye Middleton Fillmore, a retired sociologist from the University of California, San Francisco, who has criticized the research. .It.s very hard to disentangle all of that, and that.s a real problem.. Some researchers say they are haunted by the mistakes made in studies about hormone replacement therapy, which was widely prescribed for years on the basis of observational studies similar to the kind done on alcohol. Questions have also been raised about the financial relationships that have sprung up between the alcoholic beverage industry and many academic centers, which have accepted industry money to pay for research, train students and promote their findings. .The bottom line is there has not been a single study done on moderate alcohol consumption and mortality outcomes that is a .gold standard. kind of study . the kind of randomized controlled clinical trial that we would be required to have in order to approve a new pharmaceutical agent in this country,. said Dr. Tim Naimi, an epidemiologist with the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Even avid supporters of moderate drinking temper their recommendations with warnings about the dangers of alcohol, which has been tied to breast cancer and can lead to accidents even when consumed in small amounts, and is linked with liver disease, cancers, heart damage and strokes when consumed in larger amounts. .It.s very difficult to form a single-bullet message because one size doesn.t fit all here, and the public health message has to be very conservative,. said Dr. Arthur L. Klatsky, a cardiologist in Oakland, Calif., who wrote a landmark study in the early 1970s finding that members of the Kaiser Permanente health care plan who drank in moderation were less likely to be hospitalized for heart attacks than abstainers. (He has since received research grants financed by an alcohol industry foundation, though he notes that at least one of his studies found that alcohol increased the risk of hypertension.) .People who would not be able to stop at one to two drinks a day shouldn.t drink, and people with liver disease shouldn.t drink,. Dr. Klatsky said. On the other hand, .the man in his 50s or 60s who has a heart attack and decides to go clean and gives up his glass of wine at night . that person is better off being a moderate drinker.. Health organizations have phrased their recommendations gingerly. The American Heart Association says people should not start drinking to protect themselves from heart disease. The 2005 United States dietary guidelines say that .alcohol may have beneficial effects when consumed in moderation.. The association was first made in the early 20th century. In 1924, a Johns Hopkins biologist, Raymond Pearl, published a graph with a U-shaped curve, its tall strands on either side representing the higher death rates of heavy drinkers and nondrinkers; in the middle were moderate drinkers, with the lowest rates. Dozens of other observational studies have replicated the findings, particularly with respect to heart disease. .With the exception of smoking and lung cancer, this is probably the most established association in the field of nutrition,. said Eric Rimm, an associate professor of epidemiology and nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health. .There are probably at least 100 studies by now, and the number grows on a monthly basis. That.s what makes it so unique.. Alcohol is believed to reduce coronary disease because it has been found to increase the .good. HDL cholesterol and have anticlotting effects. Other benefits have been suggested, too. A small study in China found that cognitively impaired elderly patients who drank in moderation did not deteriorate as quickly as abstainers. A report from the Framingham Offspring Study found that moderate drinkers had greater mineral density in their hipbones than nondrinkers. Researchers have reported that light drinkers are less likely than abstainers to develop diabetes, and that those with Type 2 diabetes who drink lightly are less likely to develop coronary heart disease. But the studies comparing moderate drinkers with abstainers have come under fire in recent years. Critics ask: Who are these abstainers? Why do they avoid alcohol? Is there something that makes them more susceptible to heart disease? Some researchers suspect the abstainer group may include .sick quitters,. people who stopped drinking because they already had heart disease. People also tend to cut down on drinking as they age, which would make the average abstainer older . and presumably more susceptible to disease . than the average light drinker. In 2006, shortly after Dr. Fillmore and her colleagues published a critical analysis saying a vast majority of the alcohol studies they reviewed were flawed, Dr. R. Curtis Ellison, a Boston University physician who has championed the benefits of alcohol, hosted a conference on the subject. A summary of the conference, published a year later, said scientists had reached a .consensus. that moderate drinking .has been shown to have predominantly beneficial effects on health.. The meeting, like much of Dr. Ellison.s work, was partly financed by industry grants. And the summary was written by him and Marjana Martinic, a senior vice president for the International Center for Alcohol Policies, a nonprofit group supported by the industry. The center paid for tens of thousands of copies of the summary, which were included as free inserts in two medical journals, The American Journal of Medicine and The American Journal of Cardiology. In an interview, Dr. Ellison said his relationship with the industry did not influence his work, adding, .No one would look at our critiques if we didn.t present a balanced view.. Dr. Fillmore and the co-authors of her analysis posted an online commentary saying the summary had glossed over some of the deep divisions that polarized the debate at the conference. .We also dispute Ellison and Martinic.s conclusions that more frequent drinking is the strongest predictor of health benefits,. they wrote. (Dr. Fillmore has received support from the Alcohol Education and Rehabilitation Foundation of Australia, a nonprofit group that works to prevent alcohol and substance abuse.) Dr. Ellison said Dr. Fillmore.s analysis ignored newer studies that corrected the methodological errors of earlier work. .She threw out the baby with the bathwater,. he said. Meanwhile, two central questions remain unresolved: whether abstainers and moderate drinkers are fundamentally different and, if so, whether it is those differences that make them live longer, rather than their alcohol consumption. Dr. Naimi of the C.D.C., who did a study looking at the characteristics of moderate drinkers and abstainers, says the two groups are so different that they simply cannot be compared. Moderate drinkers are healthier, wealthier and more educated, and they get better health care, even though they are more likely to smoke. They are even more likely to have all of their teeth, a marker of well-being. .Moderate drinkers tend to be socially advantaged in ways that have nothing to do with their drinking,. Dr. Naimi said. .These two groups are apples and oranges.. And simply advising the nondrinkers to drink won.t change that, he said. Some scientists say the time has come to do a large, long-term randomized controlled clinical trial, like the ones for new drugs. One approach might be to recruit a large group of abstainers who would be randomly assigned either to get a daily dose of alcohol or not, and then closely followed for several years; another might be to recruit people who are at risk for coronary disease. But even the experts who believe in the health benefits of alcohol say this is an implausible idea. Large randomized trials are expensive, and they might lack credibility unless they were financed by the government, which is unlikely to take on the controversy. And there are practical and ethical problems in giving alcohol to abstainers without making them aware of it and without contributing to accidents. Still, some small clinical trials are already under way to see whether diabetics can reduce their risk of heart disease by consuming alcohol. In Boston, researchers at Beth Israel Deaconess Medical Center are recruiting volunteers 55 and over who are at risk for heart disease and randomly assigning them to either drink plain lemonade or lemonade spiked with tasteless grain alcohol, while scientists track their cholesterol levels and scan their arteries. In Israel, researchers gave people with Type 2 diabetes either wine or nonalcoholic beer, finding that the wine drinkers had significant drops in blood sugar, though only after fasting; the Israeli scientists are now working with an international team to begin a larger two-year trial. .The last thing we want to do as researchers and physicians is expose people to something that might harm them, and it.s that fear that has prevented us from doing a trial,. said Dr. Sei Lee of the University of California, San Francisco, who recently proposed a large trial on alcohol and health. .But this is a really important question,. he continued. .Because here we have a readily available and widely used substance that may actually have a significant health benefit . but we just don.t know enough to make recommendations.. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/06/16/health/16alco.html?_r=1&hpw=&pagewanted=p… -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Hugel: Go Gentil into that good night.

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI. June 12, 2009 Jean Hugel, Alsace Winemaker, Dies at 84 By ERIC ASIMOV Jean Hugel, a leading force in resurrecting the Alsatian wine trade after the devastation of World War II and the longtime head of one of the best-known and oldest producers in Alsace, died Tuesday in Ribeauvillé, Alsace, France. He was 84. The cause was cancer, his nephew Étienne Hugel said. For people who began drinking wine in the 1970s and ’80s, discovering the wines of Alsace, in their slender, fluted bottles, was no small pleasure. Thanks to Mr. Hugel’s efforts to introduce his wines to the rest of the world, many of those bottles bore the name Hugel & Fils. The Hugel company had produced wine in the small village of Riquewihr since it was established in 1639. For centuries, Alsace, the frontier province in northeastern France just across the Rhine from Germany, had been passed back and forth between the French and the Germans, depending on who had won the last battle. When Jean Hugel was born, in 1924, Alsace had only recently become French again, with the end of World War I. By the time he came of age, during World War II, Alsace was again in German hands. While the history of winemaking in Alsace stretches back centuries, only after World War II, when the province was back in French control, did Alsace take its place as one of the leading French wine regions. Johnny Hugel, as Mr. Hugel was known in the wine trade, was a leading voice in promoting Alsatian wines and in pushing for the adoption of rules to govern wine production in Alsace. He played an especially important role in developing rules for producing the sweet wines known as vendange tardive, or late harvest, and sélection de grains nobles, made from grapes affected by botrytis, the fungus known as the noble rot. Minute quantities of late-harvested sweet wines had always been made in Alsace, but by the mid-20th century, quality levels were no longer enforced, and myriad mediocre wines were being sold under generic German terms like spätlese and auslese. Mr. Hugel drafted proposals for strict standards governing the production of these wines, along with French names for them. The proposals became law in 1984. Mr. Hugel was less successful as chairman of a commission charged with identifying the best vineyards in Alsace, which were to be designated grand crus. Influential growers outside the grand cru areas, not wanting to be left out, argued for their inclusion. Unable to match their political power, Mr. Hugel dropped out. When the grand cru system was established in the 1990s, some of the vineyard sites were more than twice as big as Mr. Hugel had judged to be deserving of the designation. Hugel, along with several other leading houses like Trimbach, refused to use the grand cru designation on their labels. Mr. Hugel is survived by his wife, Simone, and two daughters, Dominique and Judith. After leading the family business from 1948 to 1997, he ceded the reins to his nephews, Étienne, Jean Philippe and Marc, members of the 13th generation to run the company. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Beer is better

by Jim L. Ellingson

Than water. No mention of milk. Recall the Governator, back in his body building days. Reporter: "Mr. Schwartzsenager, as a body builder, you must drink a lot of milk." Ah-Nold: "Milk is for babies. Men drink beer." FYI! Published on Cleveland Leader (http://www.clevelandleader.com) It's Better To Drink Beer After Exercise Than Water By Julie Created 11/02/2007 - 8:47pm Researchers at Granada University in Spain have come across a discovery that will undoubtedly please athletes and sports enthusiasts - a pint of beer post-workout or match is better at rehydrating the human body than water. Professor Manuel Garzon, a member of Granada's medical faculty, made the finding after tests on 25 students over several months. Researchers believe that it is the sugars, salts, and bubbles in a beer that may help people absorb fluids more quickly. The subjects in the study were asked to run on a treadmill at temperatures of 104F (40C) until they were close to exhaustion. Once they had reached the point of giving up, researchers measured their hydration levels, motor skills, and concentration ability. Half of the subjects were given two half pints of Spanish lager to drink, and the other half were given just water. Garzon said that the rehydration effection in those who were given beer was "slightly better" than those who were given only water. He also believes that the carbon dioxide in beer helps quench thirst more quickly, and that beer's carbohydrates replace calories lost during physical exertion. The average person loses around 1 liter (33oz) of water for every hour of exercise in sweat. Rehydrating after a workout is crucial, as a lack of hydration is more likely to make one feel tired, fuzzyheaded, and suffer from headaches. Based on the results of the study, researchers recommend moderate consumption of beer as a part of athletes' diets. "Moderate consumption" for men is 500ml per day, and for women is 250ml per day. So that explains why Babe Ruth was so good. His method of training was nearly 100 years ahead of its time. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Cheese!

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI from the Post On Board For Summer By Domenica Marchetti Special to The Washington Post Wednesday, June 10, 2009 For lots of cooks, warm-weather months are all about the glories of the grill. For others, summer broadens the kaleidoscope of vegetables and fruits. For me, this time of year means all of that -- with cheese. Most of us aren't used to thinking of cheese as a seasonal food, but summer is the time when certain cheeses are produced or are at their best. Dairy animals are feasting on lush, nutrient-rich grasses, and their diet is reflected in the flavor, freshness and richness of many kinds of cheese. For reasons not understood by this dairy queen, cheese seems to be an afterthought or subsidiary ingredient in summer cooking. It is my opinion, however, that now's the time a well-chosen cheese deserves its place of honor at the table. To be sure, it can be hard to choose. There are hundreds of varieties of cow's-, goat's- and sheep's-milk cheeses (not to mention buffalo's milk), fresh and aged, from dairy farms across the country and from all corners of the globe, readily available at well-stocked supermarkets, gourmet and specialty cheese shops and online. It makes for an intimidating and often expensive array. That's why I decided to share thoughts about my current summer favorites. And although some cheeses cost upward of $20 a pound, it's important to remember that a little goes a long way. I think of it as an affordable indulgence. To simplify matters, I like to divide the subject into two categories: true summer cheeses, and those that seem right for the season. For example, two fresh cow's-milk cheeses -- mozzarella and its even richer cousin, burrata -- are now at their peak in richness and tangy flavor. Summer is also the natural season for fresh goat's-milk and sheep's-milk cheeses, such as chevre, feta and ricotta. Goats and sheep stop producing milk in winter, when they are breeding and preparing to give birth. Although some cheese producers freeze the curds collected in summer (which is why we see goat cheese in stores year-round), the ideal time to enjoy these fresh cheeses is when they are made from fresh milk and curds. "It's like strawberries or tomatoes," says Sebastien Tavel, owner of a new cheese shop in Old Town Alexandria called La Fromagerie. "Yes, you can get them in December, but it's not the same thing." Then there are, to my mind, cheeses that just make sense. For example, I enjoy a rich, meaty wedge of Taleggio as much as the next cheese lover, but I find it too substantial for the heat of July and August. Instead I prefer the lighter, fresh cheeses: milder blues and supple semi-aged cheeses such as Gouda or Idiazabal, a lightly smoked beauty from Spain's Basque country. Of course, only some of this is a matter of logic; it is also a matter of preference. I am never without a hunk of Parmigiano-Reggiano in my refrigerator, and I love the salty sharpness of a good, aged pecorino Romano in summer because it goes so well with other robust flavors of the season: grilled peppers, briny olives and meaty heirloom tomatoes. The cheeses on my list of 13 are all available in the Washington area. I've grouped them according to how I use them: for grilling, for melting, for salad, for dessert and for eating fresh. Not surprisingly, there is overlap among the categories: fresh sheep's-milk ricotta, which is in the dessert group, would be perfectly at home on a summer cheese plate or drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with freshly ground black pepper. Let your own palate be your guide. Try crowning a burger with something with a little more character than the typical mild cheddar, such as goat Gouda. (Even better if it's a lamb burger.) Instead of another peach pie for dessert, let grilled peach halves share a plate with a creamy wedge of fresh sheep's-milk ricotta drizzled with honey. Armed with a little knowledge and a sense of adventure, you can easily add to your repertoire of summer cheeses and ramp up your summer recipes. A word about storing cheeses in warm weather: All of them should be kept in the refrigerator. Fresh ones such as feta, mozzarella and ricotta are highly perishable. If possible, refrigerate them in a tightly sealed container in the brine or liquid that they came in and use them within a couple of days of purchase. Creamy or sticky cheeses, such as fresh goat cheese or creamy blues, should first be wrapped tightly in plastic wrap. Wrap semi-soft cheeses such as Gouda or cheddar in wax paper (some cheese shops sell sheets of wax-coated paper) to allow them to breathe. Aged cheeses such as Parmigiano-Reggiano store better than fresher cheeses and may be wrapped in plastic or wax paper. Be sure to use a fresh sheet of wrapping paper each time you rewrap the cheese. Domenica Marchetti's latest cookbook is "Big Night In" (Chronicle Books, 2008). Her Web site is http://www.domenicacooks.com. Summer Cheeses Get to know these 13 cheeses, each with seasonal charms suited to warm weather. For Dessert For summer, the best dessert cheeses are those that are refreshing and light enough that they won't overwhelm fruit but rather enhance it. 1 Capra Honey Goat. This fresh Belgian goat cheese has just the right amount of honey mixed in, which makes for a lovely, tangy cheese with a distinctively sweet finish. It's a perfect partner for summer fruit, especially berries, peaches and nectarines. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique (2411 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 703-706-5300). 2 Cambozola. A triple-cream cross between Camembert and Gorgonzola, this soft-ripened cheese has a mild blue flavor and is great with a plate of fresh figs, halved and drizzled with a little honey. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market, Balducci's and Trader Joe's. 3 Fresh ricotta. There are two kinds of fresh ricotta: the soft, white, spoonable curd cheese made from cow's milk that most of us are familiar with; and sheep's-milk ricotta, which is firmer and smoother and usually bears the imprint of the small, round basket that it was pressed in. It can be sliced into wedges. Both kinds are perishable and should be used within a couple of days of purchase. Sheep's-milk ricotta is difficult to find but worth seeking out. It has a lovely, chalky-white color and a dense, tight curd, and it's sweeter and less tangy than cow's-milk ricotta. Both cheeses pair beautifully with ripe berries and stone fruits. For an easy summer spoon dessert, stir unsweetened cocoa powder and confectioners' sugar into either type of fresh ricotta. Sheep's-milk ricotta is available in the Washington area at Cowgirl Creamery (919 F St. NW, 202-393-6883) and Cheesetique. Cow's milk ricotta is available in the Washington area at Balducci's and Whole Foods Market. Cheeses for Salad Good salad cheeses can be fresh, tangy goat cheeses that are equally at home on vegetable and fruit salads, or sharp shredding or grating cheeses that can stand up to robust ingredients such as grilled peppers, olives and anchovies. 4 Idiazabal. This raw semi-aged sheep's-milk cheese from Spain's Basque region is lightly smoked and pocked with tiny holes throughout. It is faintly sweet, with a rich, nutty and buttery flavor. Longer-aged wheels have a sharper flavor and are good for grating. Cut Idiazabal into cubes and mix it into an antipasto salad of cubed salami, green olives, pickled peppers and marinated artichokes or mushrooms. Or use it as an alternative to Parmesan in a Caesar salad. Available in the Washington area at La Fromagerie (1222 King St., Alexandria, 703-879-2467) and Cheesetique. 5 Feta. Good-quality feta bears little resemblance to the odiferous stuff you find crumbled in containers at the supermarket or on top of Greek salads in many pizza parlors. Good imported Greek feta often is sold in blocks immersed in brine. It is salty, tangy and both creamy and crumbly. Caromont Farm, in Esmont, Va., makes a lovely straw-colored domestic feta that is less salty than traditional Greek feta, with a mild tang. Feta goes great on just about any salad that features classic summer ingredients such as tomatoes, cucumbers, red onions and mint. For something refreshing and a little daring, skewer a cube of feta, a cube of watermelon, a ripe cherry tomato and a mint leaf. Or crumble feta over a summer fruit salad of cantaloupe, honeydew melon and blueberries. Imported Greek feta is available in the Washington area at Mediterranean Bakery & Cafe (352 S. Pickett St., Alexandria, 703-751-0030), La Fromagerie, Whole Foods Market, Balducci's and Trader Joe's. 6 Ricotta salata. Not to be confused with fresh ricotta (see "Cheeses for Dessert"), this cheese is salted and pressed to give it a dense, crumbly texture that is somewhat drier than feta's. Crumble or cube it into a salad, or use a Microplane to shave it over grilled steak. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and Balducci's. For Melting Different cheeses melt in different ways. Pulled-curd cheeses, such as mozzarella or Armenian string cheese, stretch to form long strings when melted. Semi-aged cheeses, such as cheddar, Gouda and Swiss, melt smoothly and thus are best suited to top a burger. 7 Dragon's Breath From Keswick Creamery in Pennsylvania comes this extra-spicy pepper jack-style cheese studded with jalapeno, habanero and Thai (bird) chili peppers. Dragon's Breath melts beautifully and is right at home atop a grilled beef burger. It is also the perfect fix for a bland turkey burger. Try shredding it onto a vegetarian pizza topped with roasted red peppers, sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique. 8 Goat Gouda. Produced in Holland, goat's-milk gouda is similar in texture to the traditional cow's-milk version but with a smooth milky-white paste and a mild goat cheese flavor. A lovely domestic alternative is Cypress Grove Midnight Moon, which is reminiscent of Parrano, a popular medium-aged cow's-milk Gouda. Aged for one year, Midnight Moon has a rich, buttery color and a complex flavor with hints of caramel. Both regular goat gouda and Midnight Moon are perfect for melting over a spiced lamb burger (see recipe), stuffing a quesadilla along with Greek olives and roasted peppers, or topping a grilled pizza. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique, Whole Foods Market and Trader Joe's. For Grilling It takes a pretty sturdy cheese to stand up to the direct heat of a grill without melting into a gooey mess. Undoubtedly, the best-known of the grilling cheeses is halloumi, the dense, salty, rectangular-shaped cheese flavored with mint. Here are two other contenders that do well on the grill without the threat of a meltdown: 9 Smoked scamorza. This smoky brown teardrop-shaped cheese has a firm texture and low moisture content, making it great for grilling. In flavor it is slightly piquant, somewhere between smoked mozzarella and mild provolone. Look for smaller whole scamorzas, about half a pound each. Split the cheese in half lengthwise and rub with olive oil. Grill cut side down over direct heat until a brown crust forms on the bottom, then turn and grill the rounded side. Serve with a drizzle of olive oil, chopped fresh herbs and grilled or roasted peppers on the side. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and the Italian Store (3123 Lee Hwy., Arlington, 703-528-6266). 10 Queso blanco This Mexican-style mild-flavored pressed cheese has a firm, slightly elastic texture and is less salty than halloumi. Cut the rectangle crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick slices. Brush with olive oil and grill the slices until marks form on the bottom. Turn and grill the second side. Serve with a tomato salad or mixed grilled vegetables. Available in the Washington area at Whole Foods Market and Latino markets. For Eating Fresh These cheeses should have enough character to stand on their own, yet not be so overwhelming that they slay a summer appetite. 11 Caromont Old Green Mountain Round This fresh goat cheese round, topped with herbes de Provence, comes from Caromont Farm in Esmont, Va. It's fluffy and creamy, with an assertive tanginess. Spread it on flatbread or thin slices of baguette and serve with mixed olives. Caromont cheesemaker Gail Hobbs-Page likes to serve the cheese with chilled roséine. Available in the Washington area at La Fromagerie. 12 Alta Langa La Tur Produced in Italy's Piedmont, La Tur (which means "the tower" in Italian) is a combination of cow's milk, goat's milk and sheep's milk. It has a soft, crimped, bloomy rind with a faint mushroom aroma. The cheese inside is creamy and light, almost as if it had been whipped. It needs no enhancement and is delicious simply spread on good bread. Available in the Washington area at Balducci's 13 Tomme Crayeuse. This semi-aged French cow's-milk cheese has a very bloomy rind and a slightly bitter finish, with a paste that is salty and creamy. The longer the cheese ages, the creamier its interior becomes. Its earthy flavor makes it a fine candidate for a late-summer cheese plate. Available in the Washington area at Cheesetique. Part of On Board For Summer, Domenica Marchetti's feature about summer cheese. PHOTOS: James M. Thresher for The Washington Post; WEB EDITOR: Julia Beizer - washingtonpost.com Ricotta and Bittersweet Chocolate Tart The Washington Post, June 9, 2009 * . Course: Dessert * . Features: Make-Ahead Recipes Summary: The tart is beautiful in its simplicity; what could be more appealing than sweet, fresh ricotta paired with rich bittersweet chocolate? This recipe was adapted from a tart made at the Osteria Baralla, in Lucca, Italy. Although the tart itself is simple to make, finding fresh sheep's-milk ricotta can be a challenge. A good, fresh cow's milk ricotta may be substituted, but it must be drained first: Spoon 1 1/4 pounds of cow's-milk ricotta into a cheesecloth-lined strainer or colander set over a bowl. Refrigerate overnight. Discard the liquid in the bowl. Fresh sheep's-milk ricotta is carried at Cheesetique in Alexandria; call to determine availability. Fresh cow's-milk ricotta is carried by Balducci's and some Whole Foods Markets. MAKE AHEAD: The dough for the tart crust must be refrigerated for at least 1 hour. This recipe makes enough for 2 crusts; wrap the leftover dough and freeze for up to 3 months. The assembled tart must be refrigerated for 2 hours for the topping to set, then left at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Makes one 10-inch tart (12 servings) Ingredients: For the crust * . 2 1/2 cups flour, plus more for the work surface * . 1/2 cup sugar * . Finely grated zest of 1 small lemon or lime (scant tablespoon) * . 1 teaspoon baking powder * . 1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt * . 8 tablespoons (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces * . 2 large eggs For the filling * . 1 pound fresh sheep's-milk ricotta or thoroughly drained cow's-milk ricotta (see headnote) * . 4 tablespoons confectioners' sugar * . 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract * . 2 tablespoons heavy cream For the topping * . 8 ounces best-quality bittersweet chocolate, chopped * . 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder * . 1 cup heavy cream Directions: For the crust: Combine the flour, sugar, lemon or lime zest, baking powder, salt and butter in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until the mix is crumbly. Add the eggs and process just until the dough begins to come together. Lightly flour a work surface. Transfer the dough to the floured surface; knead the dough just until it is fairly smooth. Divide and pat into 2 disks. Wrap one of them in plastic wrap, then place in a resealable freezer plastic food storage bag, pushing as much air out of the bag as possible. Freeze for another use. Have ready a 10-inch round tart pan (or rectangular equivalent) with a removable bottom. Roll out the remaining disk of dough on the floured surface into a 12-inch round (about 1/8 inch thick). Carefully transfer it to the tart pan; gently press the dough into the bottom and up the sides; fold the overhanging dough into the rim to reinforce the dough on the sides. Use a rolling pin or your hands to even off the perimeter (top) of the dough in the pan. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Remove the tart shell from the refrigerator; use a fork to prick the bottom of the shell all over. Bake the tart shell for 10 minutes, until the edges are just beginning to turn pale golden. Remove the tart shell from the oven and let it cool while you make the filling. Leave the oven on. For the filling: Place the ricotta in a large bowl. Add the confectioners' sugar, vanilla extract and cream; use a fork to gently incorporate those ingredients, breaking up the ricotta as you work. Spoon the filling into the partially baked tart shell; bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until the filling is set but not at all browned. Transfer the tart (still in the pan) to a wire rack; let cool to room temperature. Meanwhile, make the topping: Combine the chopped chocolate and cocoa powder in a medium heatproof bowl. Heat the cream in a small saucepan over medium heat just until it bubbles at the edges; do not let it come to a boil. Remove from the heat and slowly pour it over the chocolate mixture; stir as you work so the cream is incorporated and the mixture becomes a glossy, dark and smooth ganache. Carefully spread the topping on the cooled filling, starting in the middle and creating a thick layer that stops short of the crust (there should be the tiniest bit of white ricotta filling showing around the perimeter of the tart). Refrigerate for 2 hours, until well chilled. To serve, remove the rim of the tart pan and transfer the tart to a serving platter. Let it sit at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Recipe Source: Adapted by Alexandria cookbook author Domenica Marchetti. 353 calories, 26g fat, 15g saturated fat, 73mg cholesterol, 85mg sodium, 28g carbohydrates, 2g dietary fiber, 15g sugar, 8g protein. Tested by Bonnie S. Benwick for The Washington Post. E-mail the Food Section at food(a)washpost.com with recipe questions. © 2007 The Washington Post Company -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Spanish Whites

by Jim L. Ellingson

Something Old, Something New By Dave McIntyre Wednesday, June 10, 2009 Much debate about wine today (and yes, you rather have to be obsessed with wine to follow the discourse) centers on the modern vs. the traditional. Modernization is said to be the enemy of traditional wine, creating a global sameness that strips variety and interest from our daily tipple. But sometimes modernization can be the savior of the traditional. Consider Spanish white wines, for instance. After the phylloxera root louse decimated Europe's vineyards in the late 1800s, most white-grape-bearing vineyards in northern and northwestern Spain were replanted with phylloxera- resistant hybrid varieties or the high-yielding palomino, which does wonders when fortified in sherry but renders an insipid table wine. It's easy to understand why: With their livelihoods ruined, growers naturally opted for more reliable grape varieties. When Spain's wine renaissance took hold in the 1970s and '80s, vintners began planting the traditional vines again and making their wines using modern techniques such as temperature control and fermentation in stainless-steel tanks. Everything old was new again. That's why white wines such as albariñgodello and verdejo are increasingly popular today as alternatives to the ubiquitous chardonnay. These three grape varieties are the headliners of Spanish whites, leading a list that includes such obscure grapes as viura, xarello and hondaribbi zuri (the main grape of a Basque wine called Txakoli). Anyone trying to cross off names from a list of grape varieties tasted should spend time savoring Spanish white wines. Albariñolds pride of place among Spanish whites. It hails from Rias Baixas in Galicia, in the country's northwestern corner, centered on the city of Santiago de Compostela. Albariñ flavors have been compared to those of Riesling and Viognier, with an emphasis on apricot and peach flavors and bracing acidity plus generous alcohol levels (around 13 percent) that give it rich body. One fanciful story (discredited by DNA testing) would have us believe albariñs indeed Riesling, brought to Spain by German pilgrims. Albariñ popularity has led to its migration to the United States; two D.C. area wineries, Chrysalis Vineyards in Virginia and Black Ankle Vineyards in Maryland, make excellent versions. "In albariñ you can find aromas of apricots, white flowers, sea salt, oyster shells, tropical fruits and minerals," said Aurelio Cabestrero, former sommelier at Taberna del Alabardero and Marcel's in Washington. "They pair well with oysters, sushi, all kinds of seafood and even taste good by themselves." He is the region's leading importer of his native country's wines under his Grapes of Spain label. Godello is another indigenous grape from Galicia, though it has not become as fashionable as albariñThe best godello wines hail from Valdeorras, in the eastern part of Galicia, which is more inland than Rias Baixas and protected from the maritime influences by mountain ranges. Aromatic and mineral, godello gives wines of impressive structure and finesse. Cabestrero finds "jasmine and honeysuckle, with more weight than a typical albariñ While albariñnd godello strive for aristocracy among Spanish white grapes, verdejo celebrates the commoner. Verdejo is the main white grape of the Rueda region in northwestern Spain, where it produces enticing wines reminiscent of sauvignon blanc, with its grassiness and fresh herbal flavors. A good verdejo smells like Colonial Williamsburg on a cool spring evening after a cleansing rain, with boxwood and ivy breathing heavily in the musky night air. Rueda wines often blend verdejo with viura, another Spanish white grape that is the mainstay of white Rioja. Keswick Vineyards, near Charlottesville, makes an excellent verdejo. Most Spanish white wines on our shelves today are made in the modern style, with temperature- controlled fermentation and other techniques designed to preserve acidity and freshness. But occasionally we can still find wines in a more traditional, oxidative style, especially from Rioja, a region that is reaching for a balance between the modern and traditional styles with its more famous red wines. Two wines topping today's recommendations illustrate the contrast of modern and traditional styles. The Lagar de Cervera Albariñ007 is fresh and vibrant, fermented in temperature- controlled stainless-steel tanks to preserve its freshness and acidity. It shows lime, apricot and peach flavors -- an orchard in a glass -- followed by a long and complex finish. The Medrano Irazu 2005 white Rioja, made entirely with viura, is traditionally styled. It is fermented in oak barrels with a daily stirring of the lees to give it complexity and body, enhanced by extended bottle aging. This wine shows oxidation; it could easily seem over the hill to drinkers accustomed to the modern, stainless-steel style of white wines, yet it is vibrant and lively in the glass. Its flavors are more earthy and mineral than fruity. Ironically, Medrano Irazu is not an old winery; it was founded in 1985. Its white Rioja is another example of the modern and traditional blurring in Spain. Dave McIntyre can be reached through http://www.dmwineline.com or food(a)washpost.com. Recommendations Wednesday, June 10, 2009 The retail market is behind the eight ball on Spanish whites, and many of these are primarily available in restaurants. Lagar de Cervera Albariñ007 *** Rias Baixas, Spain, $23 Fresh, intense and vibrant, this wine shows more complexity than most albariñ combining citrus and orchard fruit flavors. It is not for fans of subtlety. Bacchus: available in the District at Broad Branch Market, Wide World of Wines; on the list at Cork Wine Bar, Jaleo, Posto, PS 7's, Zengo. On the list in Maryland at Clyde's Tower Oaks. Medrano Irazu Barrel Fermented White 2005 ** 1/2 Rioja, Spain, $20 This wine shows some age, with oxidized orchard fruit, earthy minerality and good complexity. Authorities in Rioja recently approved use of international varieties such as chardonnay and sauvignon blanc to make their region's viura wines more fruity to meet consumer demand. This 100 percent viura speaks for maintaining traditional purity. Potomac Selections: available in the District at Ace Beverage; on the list in Virginia at 2941, Willow. Amestoi Txakoli 2007 ** Getariako, Spain, $20 >From the Basque country of Spain's north coast, this slightly sparkling wine is ideal for summer sipping, with racy acidity with refreshing citrus flavors: sort of like Sprite without the sugar. Olives tame the acidity and round out the wine. Bacchus: on the list in the District at Proof, Sei. Guitian Godello Joven 2006 ** Valdeorras, Galicia, Spain, $18 Delicious and complex, this has peach and apricot and just a hint of the tree to give it interest. Winebow: available in the District at Calvert Woodley, MacArthur Beverages; on the list at Mendocino Grille & Wine Bar. Basa Blanco 2007 ** Rueda, Spain, $11 >From winemaker Telmo Rodriguez, who is rapidly gaining a cult following for his high-quality wines from various regions of Spain, this Rueda is peachy, but focused and mineral as well. It is a lovely white for seafood such as grilled prawns. Monument: available in the District at 1 West Dupont Circle, MacArthur Beverages, Paul's of Chevy Chase; on the list at various Clyde's and Chef Geoff's restaurants, Cafe Salsa, Creme Cafe, Veritas Wine Bar. Nessa Albariñ008 * 1/2 Rias Baixas, Spain, $15 A delicious example of albariñthis will appeal to Riesling lovers with its crisp acidity, apricot flavors and perfect balance. Grapes of Spain/Elite: available in the District at Pearson's, Whole Foods Market Glover Park; on the list at Bistro Napoleon, Cashion's Eat Place, Ceiba. Available in Maryland at Calvert Wine & Spirits in Cockeystown, the Wine Cellar in Annapolis, the Wine Source in Baltimore; on the list at Jalapeñin Annapolis and La Tasca in Baltimore. Available in Virginia at Au Domaine in Alexandria, Cecile's Wine Cellar in McLean, Whole Foods Market in Vienna; on the list at Hank's Oyster Bar in Alexandria, Panache Restaurant in Tysons Corner. Prado Rey Birlocho 2008 * 1/2 Rueda, Spain, $10 It's racy and grassy, sort of like a Riesling-sauvignon blanc cross, combining apricot, passion fruit and melon flavors. Delicious wine. New to the market. Touton: available in the District at Paul's of Chevy Chase, Watergate Wine & Spirits; available in Maryland at Country Boy in Wheaton, Franklin's General Store in Hyattsville; available in Virginia at Ashburn Wine Shop, Whole Foods Market Vienna. -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] Four Buck Pinot, Russian River

by Jim L. Ellingson

Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Jon BonnéChronicle Wine Editor Sunday, June 7, 2009 We live in the days of $4 Pinot Noir. Consider what that means. True, the Pinot in question may be a Trader Joe's rock-bottom special (Blue Fin, a Fred Franzia effort), but it's symptomatic of where Pinot's star turn has led. If even the once-rarefied Pinot can tumble down the value ladder, those who traffic in blue-chip Pinot need to be on their game - doubly so with a continued grim outlook for pricy wines. That means you, Russian River Valley. If there's an epicenter of Pinot fame in California, that particular slice of Sonoma still has traction. Yet our recent panel tasting of nearly 40 Russian River Valley Pinots, mostly from 2007 with a handful from 2006, provided fewer chances for optimism than I had expected. Certainly 2007 was a good year for vintners to show off, with a long, unhurried harvest, extended and essentially split in two by a September cool stretch, and lower yields that promised nuanced and intense fruit. Fruit we got. Most of the wines had no shortage of black fruit flavors, but many had little more going on upstairs. Plump was a word that came to describe many wines. Helping me survey the field were two San Francisco wine directors: Jeff Anderson of Gary Danko and Brian Gavin from Conduit. We were excited to get a snapshot of benchmark Pinot in a strong year. To their credit, the wines generally showed less oak than in the past few years, perhaps a sign that Pinot Noir's keepers are making good on their claims to retrench on new-barrel fever. Alcohol levels were mostly dialed down a bit, either a sign of the vintage or a calculated decision to choose grace over might. Still, these were largely expensive wines, and considering that, the adjectives circling around the table were a surprise - not just "plump," but "monochromatic." Too many times, we hunted in vain for the vibrant or vivacious. The overt fruitiness was fine, and fans of Russian River Pinot certainly want their wines packed with dark fruit flavors. But at the prices being asked - fewer than 1 in 6 wines was under $30 - there needs to be something more. A bit of curious earth and spice, at a bare minimum. And here's why: Even forgetting the rise of $4 Pinot, the grape's mainstreaming has allowed enough nuanced examples to hit shelves under $20 that an old-guard appellation like Russian River needs to work doubly hard. Especially when married to what seemed like a troubling lack of acidity in many wines, plump black fruit sounds more like a recipe for cocktail-party Zinfandel than age-worthy Pinot. Luckily, among our 10 recommended wines were a host of familiar names and sites - wineries like Dutton-Goldfield and the De Loach family's Hook & Ladder. They were joined by newer labels under the hands of known talents - wines like Sequana, made by James MacPhail, who shines under his own MacPhail label; or the single-vineyard Suacci Carciere, made by Ryan Zepaltas, who works with Adam Lee's Siduri as well as his own Zepaltas label. Though most wines from the trickier 2006 vintage filtered onto the market a while ago (and are, I suspect, lingering on shelves) we encountered a few late-releasing gems. One, from a pioneering Russian River name, was among the tasting's true standouts. Tom Dehlinger releases his estate wines later than most, and the newly available 2006 shows the potential of the area's style - strong, dark fruit, ample oak and yet a mineral verve on the palate that reminds you it's Pinot in your glass. Since Dehlinger first planted vines in 1975, there's a full-circle gratification to finding such energy and drive in such a well-established wine. That said, much of the excitement has moved on. A new model of Pinotphilia has been advanced by energetic but land-poor enthusiasts toiling in warehouses and begging for lots of fruit to create their vineyard-designate lineups. (Consider this the Williams Selyem legacy.) Increasingly, they are turning to the Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley, where the cutting edges lie. Russian River Pinots are neither cheap nor, with few exceptions, in short supply. So monochromatic won't do for a world that drinks in Technicolor. 2006 Dehlinger Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48): Tom Dehlinger enjoyed the benefits of 2006's better yields, with a relatively early harvest (ending by Oct. 2) on his various estate parcels, the youngest of which was planted in 1989. It's quintessential Russian River - dark but nervy, with clay and musky black cherry on the nose. A powerful, distinct presence to it, with a palate lifted by bright mineral and grounded in broad tannic power. No nonsense here; this is serious, intense winemaking, as Dehlinger has long provided from his red soils outside Sebastopol. 2006 Donum Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($65): Made by owner Anne Moller-Racke (formerly of Buena Vista) and Kenneth Juhasz (who also makes Auteur) from a relatively early mid-September harvest off Donum's holdings in the Russian River area. Strong oak and loam notes intersect on the nose, with distinct sweet cherry and blackberry fruit at the core. An almost meaty tang arrives to lift the profile, but at the core is generous, sweet fruit and ripe tannins that give it guts. Bold stuff. 2007 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($38): This well-established label is in fine form with its benchmark blend of five parcels. A notable oak presence steps up, but the dense palate of plum skin, cherry and sassafras surges through. Intense and unabashed, all the more so given a modest 13.5 percent alcohol. 2007 George Wine Co. Leras Family Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($69): An ambitious and somewhat spendy project from winemaker George Levkoff, a onetime bond trader who caught the Pinot bug with help from Williams Selyem and Hirsch Vineyards. From a parcel owned by longtime grower Nick Leras, it's full of rich, dark berry and cocoa, with a bit of savory twang from soy and mint notes, and a structure built on fine, lingering tannins round it out. 2007 Hook & Ladder Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($25): Russian River pioneer Cecil De Loach seems to be carrying the torch for affordable, enjoyable Pinot. A classic approach, tense and tangy, with tamarind, cola and dry earth aromas atop ripe - but restrained - black cherry fruit. Gratifying, if more of a cocktail-party wine. 2007 Kenwood Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($18): Kenwood, owned by Korbel's Gary Heck, and its winemaker Pat Henderson pulled off impressive results for a 36,000-case wine. Roasted berry notes and fresh red cherry are underscored by an herbal hint. Tension and length from mildly gripping tannins. A very good value. 2007 River Road Vineyards Scarlett Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($30): Notably concentrated and rich, with a heavier hand on the oak. But deep black fruit gets counterpoint from a buoyant, tense structure, reining in the lavish style. 2007 Sapphire Hill Sapphire Hill Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($40): Tim Meinken makes the wines for this project, located on the site of the old Levi Grove ranch southwest of Windsor near Sonoma-Cutrer. Big, but subtle, with tangy orange peel highlights amid loamy earth and thyme aromas. Vivacious, if a bit tannic, with fruit notes hinged on wild strawberry and plum skin. Lots of momentum. 2007 Sequana Sundawg Ridge Vineyard Green Valley Pinot Noir ($50): An inaugural vintage from the new project created by Hess Collection President Tom Selfridge, with wines made by James MacPhail. This designate (from a vineyard apparently named to rile English teachers) is packed with opulent blackberry and dark fruit, matched by an equally hearty, dark nose - musk, damp earth and sachet. At 15.1 percent alcohol, it's a blockbuster, although with deep extraction and intrigue to pull it off. 2007 Suacci Carciere Suacci Vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($48): The young Suacci vineyard southwest of Sebastopol is on a strong upswing, enjoying its second commercial release made by the talented Ryan Zepaltas from fruit picked in early October and aged in around 40 percent new oak. Deeply stylish, with notes of cola, bright berries, tamarind and fenugreek, and a sappy, weighty palate. Rose and cocoa on the finish provide even more depth. Alluring and powerful. E-mail Jon Bonnét jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/06/07/FD8217USNV.DTL This article appeared on page E - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

[wine] those French are in a time warp?

by warren gregory

French wine slips from perch as number one exported wines worldwideJune 9, 2009Wines from Italy, Spain and Australia ending up on more menus and more tables around the globeOnce considered far and away the undisputed best and market-leading wines in the world, wines from France have been battling stiff competition from other countries in the past couple of decades. However, it always retained the number one spot, in terms of both perception and reality, with more French wines being exported than wines from any other country. But all this is changing. While wine production in France is declining, it is increasing in other countries that are known wine producers, such as Australia, Spain, Italy and the US. Once considered inferior to French vintages, wines from these countries routinely take home prizes in competitions. And there are new players coming to the field: Argentina and Chile, and even China and India.France has been slow to acknowledge the changing landscape and slow to react. Marketing has not traditionally been a French forte, and it must not have seemed necessary in industries in which France has been historically predominant, such as wine and high fashion. Indeed, for many years, French output in these areas spoke for itself, becoming world-famous and sought-after virtually without any marketing efforts. The reputation French wines enjoyed around the world was largely unchallenged.But now, with globalization a reality, French winemakers are starting to realize that that world is changing, and that not only do they not have a corner on the market, that they may not have much of a market at all if they don’t get out there and hustle, as gauche as it must seem. Competition has brought prices down, and more people are consuming wines, both inexpensive table wines and more costly wines as well. Besides not being marketed as aggressively as wines from other countries, wines from France suffer from other disadvantages where the average and less sophisticated consumer is concerned.The long traditions that have made French wines great are also a barrier to their popularity overseas. For example, other countries, including the US, while often mentioning the region of origin, label their wines based on the type of grapes used. This gives the consumer, especially one without an extensive education in the history or wine, a much better idea of what to expect than the French system. French wines are all labeled based on appellation, or area of origin, what the French call “terroir”. Terroir refers not only to the location but also to the conditions of the climate and the soil in the area, and many other subtle factors may also contribute. These do affect the grapes and the wine produced from them, and fierce battles are fought among French vintners over who may or may not call their wine a Chablis premier cru based on whether vines grow in a patch of dirt a few hundred feet in one direction or the other. Many different types of grapes may be grown in the the same AOC region (appellation of origin), yielding different wines that are nonetheless labeled with the name of the place rather than the varietal. But while wine enthusiasts in France and small coterie of connoiseurs in other countries understand this language, most consumers are lost when reading a French wine label. But they know what they are getting with a Spanish Rioja, an Australian Shiraz or a Napa Valley Chardonnay. And this clarity is contributing to sales as much or more than any actual preference for what’s inside the bottle, especially for supermarket shoppersThe idea that French wines should follow the lead of the rest of the world and be labeled by grape variety for purposes of marketing is met by horror by most in the French wine business. Certainly, those who have defended for years, perhaps centuries, the right to a certain appellation are the most vociferous opponents to change. And those who know France know that no change, especially in a heavily regulated industry, ever comes quickly in France, even if some people may desire it. There are a few in the French wine industry who see the writing on the wall (or the label) and have made the case that French AOC rules are too complicated for anyone to understand. Some propose retaining appellations but also adding the grape varieties to the labels.It remains to be seen whether a compromise will ever be reached, and if that happens before wines from France all but disappear from all but the most discerning tables in other countries.

16 years, 5 months

[wine] [wsmith@wordsmith.org: A.Word.A.Day--growler]

by Jim L. Ellingson

Growler is a word I've had to define many time. Today, it's word of the day. Not sure there's a similar word for the container used to fetch wine. FYI, Montreal is fantastic. ----- Forwarded message from Wordsmith <wsmith(a)wordsmith.org> ----- Date: Thu, 4 Jun 2009 00:18:04 -0400 From: Wordsmith <wsmith(a)wordsmith.org> To: jellings(a)me.umn.edu Subject: A.Word.A.Day--growler X-Greylist: Sender IP whitelisted by DNSRBL, not delayed by milter-greylist-4.0 (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu [128.101.142.227]); Thu, 04 Jun 2009 00:46:38 -0500 (CDT) X-Spam-Score: 0.257 () HTML_FONT_BIG,HTML_MESSAGE X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.57 on 128.101.142.227 This week's theme: Words having many unrelated meanings growler (GROU-luhr) noun 1. One that growls. 2. A container (as a pail or pitcher) brought by a customer to fetch beer. 3. A small iceberg. 4. A four-wheeled cab. 5. An electromagnetic device for testing short-circuited coils. [From growl, from Middle English groule, grollen (to rumble), probably of imitative origin.] Today's word in Visual Thesaurus: http://visualthesaurus.com/?w1=growler -Anu Garg (words at wordsmith.org) "When Euro-metal comes to mind it can often rouse visions of hairy, horn-helmeted growlers howling about faraway lands and legendary times." Fawnda Mithrush; Primordial: Thoroughly Modern Metal; Vue Weekly (Edmonton, Canada); May 7, 2009. "The two-story building will feature a to-go bar on the first floor for beer aficionados to buy and fill growlers." Rachael Fisher; Brewing Company on the Move; The Anchorage Daily News (Alaska); May 1, 2009. "We sailed the 30-mile stretch of the Atlantic Sound, otherwise known as Iceberg Alley. The smaller, granite-hard growlers are to be avoided just as deftly as the enormous floating glacial islands." Neill Johnston; Cool Cruise Among Ice and Penguins; Birmingham Post (UK); May 15, 2009. "So this growler will get into Audi R8 territory for about a third of the Audi's $130,000 starting price tag." Jeremy Cato; New Challenger Even Better; The Globe and Mail (Toronto, Canada); Feb 19, 2008. Sponsored by: Small Business Journal By Mike Nolan: The Human Side of Small Business http://smallbusinessjournal.wordpress.com/ Announce your products, services, or message here. Reach more than 700,000 people in this space. Write to: sponsorsATwordsmith.org (replace AT with @). ............................................................................ Do you wish to rise? Begin by descending. You plan a tower that will pierce the clouds? Lay first the foundation of humility. -St. Augustine (354-430) Our privacy policy: AWAD mailing list addresses are never sold, rented, leased, traded, swapped, exchanged, or bartered. We hate junk mail. Pronunciation: http://wordsmith.org/words/growler.mp3 Permalink: http://wordsmith.org/words/growler.html Unsubscribe: http://wordsmith.org/awad/subscriber-form.cgi?request=unsub&username=jellin… ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 5 months

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win June 2009