win May 2009

win@thebarn.com

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by Jim L. Ellingson

If Monday's Memorial, the media must be filled w/ outdoor ideas. Cheers, Jim Wines for grill and barbecue Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, May 17, 2009 More... The wines to match grilled and barbecued food can be as varied as the options of what to cook. Here are a few recommendations, based on the four cooking techniques and recipes elsewhere in this section. Suggested retail prices are less than $30. You can also try less expensive wines with similar character, as well as other varietal suggestions in today's story on Page D1. 2006 Earthquake Zin Lodi Zinfandel ($28) Michael and David Phillips - the sixth generation of family growers since the 1860s - maintain 500 vineyard acres near Lodi. A specialty is old-vine Zinfandel, including the vineyard for this bottling, which was planted about the same time as the 1906 earthquake. This registers at least 7.0 on the Richter scale - with enough power, spice and jammy fruit to conquer most tomato-based barbecue sauces. Blended with a little Petite Sirah and Syrah. 2007 Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Falanghina ($16) Founded in 1986 and located in Campania's Irpina region, Feudi produces modern-style wines from native grapes. Consulting winemaker Riccardo Cotarella sources these grapes from high-altitude vineyards near Mount Taburno, then ferments in stainless steel with no malolactic fermentation. A meld of stone fruit, pear, golden apple and Meyer lemon; aromatic with more body than expected. The balance and tart, clean finish speaks to both grilled vegetables and shrimp. A Sauvignon Blanc like the 2007 Vina Robles Paso Robles bottling ($14) will also work. 2006 Hess Collection Allomi Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) The Hess Collection had its start in 1978, when Donald Hess purchased his first vineyards on Mount Veeder. Winemaker Dave Guffy oversees the winery's three tiers, which includes the mid-priced Single Vineyard line. Intense nose of dark berry, loam and creme brulee with similar berry, chocolate hints and supple tannins on the palate. A relatively inexpensive Napa Valley Cab that will pair well with grilled meats. 2006 JC Cellars California Cuvee Syrah ($25) A utility infielder, this full-bodied Syrah from winemaker Jeff Cohn has the dark fruit and body to take on grilled meats and most tomato-based sauces, as long as the sauce's chile heat doesn't burn down the barn. Cohn - who began his wine career with Kent Rosenblum at Rosenblum Cellars - left in 2006 to focus on his Oakland winery. This is blended from multiple vineyards and appellations, resulting in a deep, rich California-style Syrah. Ripe aromas and flavors of blackberry, loam and pepper with generous lashings of oak. Includes 21 percent Petite Sirah. 2007 King Estate Winery Domaine Oregon Pinot Gris ($25) Domestic Pinot Gris is generally a weightier style than Pinot Grigio, which makes it a versatile choice with both light and moderately rich foods. Oregon's organically farmed King Estate, founded in 1991 by the King family, produces Pinot Gris on 300 of its 465 acres. Lovely aromas and flavors of citrus, stone fruit and spice underscored with hints of mineral; rather lush mouthfeel. The winery's more available 2007 Signature Collection bottling ($17) is also terrific. Several California producers - including J Wine Company and Edna Valley Vineyard - also make notable Gris. For a lighter white, try a slightly spritzy Vinho Verde with lively acidity, which will act like a squeeze of lemon and enliven grilled shrimp. - Lynne Char Bennett, lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/17/FD2117J9CU.DTL This article appeared on page D - 6 of the San Francisco Chronicle Pairing wines with grilling favorites Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Sunday, May 17, 2009 More... Next weekend, Memorial Day kicks off the grilling season. It's time for dusty grills and barbecue skills to re-emerge with thoughts of fire and succulent fare. Finding something to grill is usually easy. Choosing a liquid refreshment to take on and enhance the grill's char might need a bit more thought. While summer quenchers like light beer and iced tea are refreshing if you're mowing the lawn or tending a hot grill, I want a more robust adult beverage when I sit down to juicy slices of grilled beef or smoky, finger-licking barbecue. Wine has the intensity, body, aroma and flavor to complement almost anything you can cook over fire. Several factors come into play when choosing bottles that pair well with grilled and barbecued dishes: what type of food; which sauce; the use of smoke; and cooking method. The guidelines for pairing wine are as applicable for summer's casual outdoor fare as for a five-course dinner with a sommelier's selections. Meat's weight and heft require a wine with similar body and intensity, while vegetables' more delicate flavors are better suited to lighter wines. Strong marinades or sauces will modify the equation, as will heavy char or a big dose of smoke. Incorporating the grilled food into another dish like pasta or salad will also complicate its character. These additional interplays can tilt the pairing toward a different wine. Cooking methods - whether including high-heat grilling or lower temperature barbecuing- also affect the wine choices. Traditionalists swear by charcoal or hardwood for both grilling and barbecue, especially for that smoky nuance. More people are using natural gas or propane grills for convenience as well as environmental reasons; there also is an increasing number of electric grills from which to choose. The accompanying recipes and wine pairing tips illustrate how to match wines with some of the season's favorite foods. Today's picks in The Chronicle Recommends on Page D6 should also provide choices. Now all you have to do is hold up your end of the grill. hat to sip & cook Barbecue: The smoky, rich flavors of saucy slow-cooked meats can be challenging to pair, but Zinfandel and Syrah work well. If the sauce is sweet, choose Zins and Syrahs with plenty of fruit. Barbera, Beaujolais, Grenache and rosére contenders, too. Beef: Beef-friendly wines are full-bodied, with dark berry fruit and some tannin with occasional loamy hints. Cabernet Sauvignon and other red Bordeaux, Syrah, Grenache and other red Rhones, and Pinot Noir are all good choices. Fish & seafood: A range of white wines work with grilled seafood, just as with baked or sauteed seafood. Try a citrusy Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, a Manzanilla sherry or dry rosé Vegetables: Grilled vegetables can stand up to full-bodied white wines, dry roséand light reds. Good choices include Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Gris, dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and dry roséFor reds, go for a light Pinot Noir or Valpolicella. rilling gadgets Charcoal Companion offers a ready-to-use, disposable "Smoke in a Cup" with choice of apple, cherry, mesquite and hickory ($2, Mollie Stone's; companion-group.com) Another choice is Woodbridge Grill, a can with enough chips for approximately 8 grillings. The can includes a magnetic smoker box that attaches to most grills; in apple wood, mesquite and toasted oak. ($11.95, Mollie Stones and Nob Hill; woodbridgegrill.com) When your ribs are to die for, one rack is usually not enough. Barbecue up to six slabs with a rib rack, which evenly smokes without having to turn each one. The nonstick finish cleans up easily - just disassemble the rack then throw it in the dishwasher. ($9.99, Home Depot) Tongs, forks and spatulas are boring compared to the Pig Tail Food Flipper, used by many professionals and serious grillers. Advocates claim it is quicker to turn meat over with a flip of the wrist and doesn't leave holes. Left-handed model also available. Made of surgical stainless steel with a lifetime replacement guarantee. ($12.99, Cost Plus World Market or pigtailff.com) Towels, hot pads and leather gloves have nothing on the 'Ove'Glove, which provides exceptional heat protection and dexterity. Made with Nomex (used by firefighters) and Kevlar (used by police), it protects up to 540 degrees as long as the glove remains dry. Heat-resistant silicone helps grip a sizzling grill grate or add wood chips to red hot coals. ($16.99 per glove, one size fits all; Walgreens, Rite-Aid and oveglove.com. moking tips -- Keep your hand clean by covering it with a plastic bag before filling a chimney with coals. -- Arrange gray-ashed hot charcoal on top of unlit briquettes; they will eventually catch and prolong the heat without opening the lid as often. -- Many charcoal grills don't have a built-in thermometer; stick a meat thermometer in one of the grill lid's vent holes to check the temperature. -- For gas grills, use a small disposable aluminum tray to hold dry wood chips. Place it beneath the cooking grate and directly onto a covered burner. -- Use two pair of tongs if cooking with charcoal - you may need one to move coals around, but designate one pair strictly for food. -- Before placing raw meat on a plate or sheet pan, cover the pan with foil or plastic wrap. Throw away the foil on the still-clean sheet pan, which can then be used for the cooked meat. -- Mix salt and pepper in a small ramekin, then use to season raw meat to avoid possibly contaminating the entire container of salt. -- Use two side-by-side bamboo skewers for kebabs. The small pieces of food won't spin around, so the skewers are easier to turn. egetables Summer grilling and barbecue is not all about meat. In-season vegetables, including asparagus, summer squash and corn, take well to outdoor cooking. They can also headline in a main dish with just a few additions, including the right wine. Vegetable lovers don't need to wallop their palates with wines that pair better with meat than vegetables. Green flavors like those in steamed asparagus are usually paired with white wines offering some grassy, herbal character. A change in cooking method can expand your choices. Grilled vegetables allow you to include fuller-bodied whites, dry rosénd even lighter reds thanks to the caramelization and char from the fire. Light to moderate char is a little bitter (in a good way), accents a vegetable's flavor and makes it more red-wine friendly, especially if the wine has mild tannins. Light smoke from wood chips brings even more nuance to the table, though too much can be overwhelming. For a grilled-vegetable-centric menu, include on your shopping list white wines like Chablis, unoaked Chardonnay, Gruner Veltliner, Pinot Gris, dry Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and dry roséFor the other color spectrum, consider light Pinot Noir, Valpolicella, and perhaps even Barbera - particularly if portobello mushrooms or eggplant are in the mix. ish and seafood Seafood can sometimes be challenging to grill. Wine pairing is much easier. Getting past grilling issues is straightforward. A very hot grill with a clean, well-oiled grate cooks seafood in a flash and with little sticking. Seafood is done when firm and opaque, though many people prefer a salmon fillet cooked to medium with a somewhat translucent interior. A simple seasoning of extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper allows delicate flavors to shine. If using wood as fuel or to smoke, stick to milder, sweeter types like alder and fruitwoods. Rich, oily fish like salmon are exceptions; they do well with pecan, cedar and light doses of hickory. Pairing wine with the straightforward flavors of grilled seafood is, well, straightforward. Choose wines you might like with similar dishes cooked on the stove or in the oven. A wide range of whites will work, from tart citrusy choices like Sauvignon Blanc that are almost like a squeeze of lemon on shrimp, to medium-bodied bottlings with riper fruit, to Chardonnay. Mineral and briny notes, like those of Manzanilla sherry, also play well with seafood. Subtle smoke will add its character to the food, so you can consider light, dry rosénd light, fruity reds like Pinot Noir - a classic match with salmon. eef Not all cuts of beef are suited to quick cooking over fire. While tender steaks are often thrown onto the grill for a quick but satisfying meal, cuts like brisket and chuck come need slow, cooking at low temperatures to become tender. Tri-tip roastfalls between the two, so it does well with a two-level fire. After a quick high-heat sear, the tri-tip should then be cooked slowly over medium to medium-low heat char until it's medium rare. Santa Maria-style tri-tip, a Central Coast staple, is traditionally cooked over red oak and has straightforward seasonings that include hints of garlic. All cuts of simply seasoned beef, like Santa Maria tri-tip, stand up to hearty red wines. Grilling adds char to the meat, which goes well with red-wine tannins as long as the meat is not totally blackened, in which case your palate can quickly go into tannin overload. Beef-friendly reds are usually full bodied, with dark berry fruit and some tannin with occasional loamy hints. Classic examples include Cabernet Sauvignon and other red Bordeaux varietals. Red Rhone grape varieties like Syrah are also complementary; some - like Grenache - are typically made in a softer, less-tannic style, which is a particularly good match when meat is cooked medium-well to well-done. Terri Stricklin, general manager of Santa Barbara County's original Hitching Post in Casmalia (Hitching Post's Buellton location is famed for its "Sideways" appearance), says the restaurant sells a lot of Pinot Noir with its Santa Maria-style grilled beef, a 2 1/2-inch-thick top sirloin cooked over local red oak. In short, beef simply seasoned and grilled (especially when rare to medium-rare) pairs with the same wines you would order for any steak. arbecue The smoky succulent flavors of barbecue - slow-cooking ribs, brisket, pork shoulder - over indirect heat, aren't necessarily thought of as wine-friendly. When these meats are slow-cooked at temperatures less than 250°, the connective tissue softens and the fat renders, which makes the meat tender and succulent. Rubs and pastes also contribute flavor to the meat, as do sauces and glazes. There are several styles or regional barbecue - Kansas City, Texas and the Carolinas, for example - which have distinct flavors that call for different types of wines. Tomato-based barbecue sauces are the most widespread. Finding wines to complement moderate levels of sweet-tart tomato or ketchup, spices and chile heat is not too difficult when a sauce is well balanced and not too sweet. Both Zinfandel and Syrah are full bodied; many bottlings have intense fruit with soft tannins. Very ripe wines can be high in alcohol, which can exacerbate a sauce's chile heat, though a high level of alcohol in a well-balanced wine is often imperceptible. Sweet sauces need a wine with sufficient fruit; the sweeter the sauce, the sweeter the wine, which is why many big, jammy, low-tannin Zins and Syrahs can work. Barbera, Beaujolais, Grenache and rosére contenders, too. At times, a wine with a hint of residual sugar may be needed; a very dry one may seem coarse and sour after a bite of barbecue. Great barbecue is perhaps the most challenging and technique-driven dish that comes off a grill. It can also bring the most acclaim, especially if served with the perfect wine. ood and smoke No matter the flavor, wood used to grill and smoke food is always hardwood, but fruit wood is becoming the choice of some professional Bay Area barbecuers. Apple is preferred by East Bay pit masters at Bo's Barbecue & Catering, Kinder's Meats-Deli-BBQ, and Looney's Smokehouse, while BarbersQ in Napa uses cherry. San Francisco's Big Nate's BBQ and Memphis Minnnie's choose white oak. Uncle Frank's BBQ Restaurant & Catering in South Bay incorporates wood from oak, fruit and occasionally almond trees. Lazzari Fuel Co. in Brisbane offers a selection of woods; they're available in many Bay Area markets and hardware stores or directly from Lazzari' Fuel Co., 11 Industrial Way, Brisbane; (415) 467-2970 or lazzari.com. pple, cherry Smoke characteristics: Subtle, sweet, fruity Suggested uses: Pork, poultry, fish, vegetables How sold: Chips, chunks, logs aple Smoke characteristics: Mild, clean Suggested uses: Commercial smoking How sold: Sawdust lder Smoke characteristics: mild, clean Suggested uses: Seafood, richer fish (salmon), poultry, pork How sold: Chips ecan Smoke characteristics: Mild to moderate intensity, slightly sweet Suggested uses: Good all-around How sold: Chunks, logs ak Smoke characteristics: Classic smokiness, well-rounded Suggested uses: Pork, beef, game, lamb, poultry - very versatile How sold: Chips, chunks, oak charcoal. White oak more available in Bay Area; red oak along Central Coast ickory Smoke characteristics: Moderately intense, rich Suggested uses: Beef, lamb, pork; sawdust for commercial smoking of sausage and fish How sold: Sawdust, chips, chunks, logs esquite Smoke characteristics: Intense, assertive Suggested uses: beef, lamb How sold: Chips, chunks, logs arbecued pork ribs Serves 3-4 This recipe is adapted from Pat Burke, director of hospitality for Judd's Hill Winery in Napa Valley. Since making this recipe can be an all-day process, you can make it partly ahead: smoke the ribs a day in advance, refrigerate them overnight, and finish cooking in the oven on the day you'll serve them. Remove them from the refrigerator an hour before putting them in the oven. 1 rack pork spareribs or baby back ribs (see Note) 2 to 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 4 to 5 tablespoons low-salt purchased rub (less for the smaller baby backs), or as needed (see Note) 1 to 2 cups wood chips, or 3 to 4 wood chunks 1 cup of your favorite barbecue sauce or Spicy Rib Glaze (see recipe) + more as needed (see Note) To prepare: If necessary, remove the thin, translucent membrane from the back or bone side of the ribs. Lightly coat ribs with extra virgin olive oil. Apply a generous coating of dry rub. Place ribs in a self-sealing plastic bag and refrigerate at least 2 hours or up to one day in advance. Remove ribs from refrigerator one hour before cooking. To smoke: If using wood chips, soak in water for at least 25 minutes. Use charcoal briquettes to fill a large chimney about half-full (about 50 briquettes for a Weber kettle grill). Ignite coals with one to two pieces of newspaper placed beneath the chimney. When all coals are covered with gray ash (about 15-30 minutes) place a disposable aluminum tray filled with about 1/2 inch hot water on one side of the grate. Arrange coals on the other side of the grill, and top with the drained soaked wood chips or 2 wood chunks. Put grate into place. Close lid and allow heat to build up. Wipe the grate with a thin coating of oil, using an oiled paper towel held with cooking tongs. Arrange ribs on grate, meat side up, with thicker side closer to the coals. Cover. Keep temperature ideally around 210°-220° for 2 1/2 hours by adjusting bottom and lid vent openings. Add more coal and wood chips as needed to maintain temperature. To finish: Preheat oven to 225°-230°, and put the oven rack in the middle position. Line a sheet pan with one length of heavy-duty aluminum foil large enough to enclose the ribs (with regular-weight foil, use double thickness). Take ribs off the grill and place on foil-lined pan; baste all sides of ribs with sauce or glaze. With the ribs bone side up, fold foil edges of foil over and crimp to seal. Bake 3 hours. Carefully remove foil 45 minutes prior to serving. Move ribs (which at this point may be so tender they may fall apart) to a flat rack set on a foil-lined sheet pan. Reserve meat juices in the unwrapped foil. Baste sauce onto both sides of ribs, leaving the bone side up. Place back into the oven or onto the grill for 30-45 minutes. This additional finish time will "tighten" the meat so the ribs are pull-apart - not fall-apart- tender. To serve: Cut the ribs apart, arrange on a platter, and brush with pan juices and/or barbecue sauce. Reserved juices and sauce can also be offered on the side. Note: An untrimmed rack of spareribs can weigh an impressive 5 to 6 pounds. You can remove the small triangular end (the point) and the inside flap of meat (the skirt) and save for another use. A trimmed sparerib rack weighs 3 to 4 pounds and will feed 3-4. One rack of baby backs will feed about 2 people. Use a rub of your choice or the very good Pappy's 50% Less Salt. You can also use your preferred sauce or glaze. Three locally produced sauces - Everett & Jones Medium, Kinder's Mild BBQ Sauce and Looney's Smokehouse Texas Spicy (from Looney's restaurant in Berkeley) - are excellent choices. The calories and other nutrients absorbed from marinades and rubs vary and are difficult to estimate. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis. Wine pairing: Fruity, full-bodied reds are the way to go for slightly sweet, tomato-based barbecue with a touch of heat. Lower tannin Syrah/Shiraz, Zinfandel and Grenache/Garnacha will work well; try the 2006 JC Cellars California Cuvee Syrah ($25). See Page D6 for more details. picy rib glaze Makes about 1 cup This glaze is an adaption of recipe Pat Burke adapted from a friend who is also a barbecue competitor. 1/4 cup ketchup 1/4 cup hoisin sauce 1/4 cup Crystal brand hot sauce 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons brown sugar 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon habanero sauce, or to taste 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice -- Liquid smoke to taste Instructions: Combine ingredients in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes to thicken. Use immediately or cool and refrigerate up to 3 days. rilled tri-tip Serves 4 to 6 Serve tri-tip Santa Maria style: grilled over red oak, then accompanied with salsa, pinquito beans, a simple green salad and toasted French rolls or bread. Leftovers make terrific sandwiches. 1 tablespoon garlic granules or powder (see Note) 2 teaspoons kosher salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 1 teaspoon sweet paprika -- Olive oil as needed 1 trimmed beef tri-tip roast with a thin layer of fat (about 2 pounds) 1/4 cup strong, flavorful red wine vinegar (for basting) 2 cups wood chips or some wood chunks Instructions: Combine garlic granules, salt, pepper and paprika. Lightly coat tri-tip with oil, then cover with dry rub. Marinate at room temperature at least 1 1/2 hours before grilling, or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight. Bring to room temperature 1 hour before grilling. For charcoal grill: Soak about 2 cups of wood chips in water for at least 25 minutes. Prepare a grill with charcoal briquets. Let coals burn down until covered with ash. Arrange most of the coals on one side of the grill and the remaining coals on the other side so that half the grill will be hot and the other half will be medium-low heat. Drain wood chips and spread half atop the hot side of the coals after cleaning the grill (instructions below). Alternately, add a couple of wood chunks to the coals. For gas grill: If using, set up wood chips for smoking and place below grill grate. Adjust burners for two heat levels - high and medium-low. For both: After preheating, clean grate then wipe with well-oiled paper towel held in tongs. Lightly coat meat with oil; gently place meat fat side down on the hot side of the grill. Sear until dark brown, about 2-3 minutes (you may need to move meat away from significant flareups or hit flame with spritz of water). Flip meat over to sear the opposite side, then it move to the cooler area of the grill. Baste once with vinegar. Cover. A bit later, baste at least once more. Halfway through cooking, turn the meat over (leaving it in the cooler area) and baste. Cover and continue to cook, basting once more a few minutes before the roast is done (the internal temperature should read 125° for rare; 130° for medium-rare on an instant-read thermometer). Total cooking time is about 25 minutes, depending on the heat and the thickness of the meat. Cover loosely with foil and let rest for at least 15 minutes before carving across the grain into thin, 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick slices. Note: For a rub using fresh garlic instead of powdered, blend 1/4 cup chopped garlic, 1 large chopped shallot and 1 1/2 to 2 teaspoons kosher salt into a paste. Stir in 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper. Before grilling, wipe off rub, then re-season with salt and pepper to taste. The calories and other nutrients absorbed from dry rubs are difficult to estimate. Variables include the type of food, marinating time and amount of surface area. Therefore, this recipe contains no analysis. Wine pairing: Grilled meat is a classic for red wine with some tannin, which is moderated by the char and meat proteins. Cabernet Sauvignon, other red Bordeaux and Rhone varietals are no-brainers. The 2006 Hess Collection Allomi Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($25) is just one example. See Page D6 for details. rilled shrimp & tomatoes Serves 4-6 Grilled shrimp can be a before-dinner nibble or used in in pasta and salad. 2 teaspoons minced garlic, or to taste 1 teaspoon kosher salt + more as needed 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil + more as needed 1 pound shrimp, extra-large (26/30 per pound) to jumbo (21/25 per pound), deveined, peeled, tail-on -- Cherry tomatoes, about 1 to 2 pints -- Freshly ground pepper -- Lemon wedges -- Chopped parsley or snipped chives (optional) Instructions: Soak 10-inch-long bamboo skewers in water for at least 15 minutes, or use metal skewers if you have them. Using a mortar and pestle, blend garlic and salt into a paste, then mix in 6 tablespoons olive oil. Combine shrimp and garlic mixture and refrigerate at least 30 minutes. Prepare grill for high heat. Thread alternating tomato and shrimp onto skewers. Use two parallel skewers to keep ingredients from spinning. Lightly season shrimp and tomatoes to taste with salt and pepper. Grill approximately 4-6 minutes, turning once, until shrimp are firm and opaque; they will continue cooking after being removed from the heat. Add a squeeze of lemon juice, then garnish with parsley or chives if desired. Nutritional analysis not possible due to the general nature of the recipe. Wine pairing: An unoaked or lightly oaked white with moderate body, or a very tart, lighter-weight one will work. An Oregon Pinot Gris like the 2007 King Estate Winery Signature Collection Oregon Pinot Gris ($17) is a nice blend of both. See Page D6 for details. rilled vegetables Any combination of vegetables can easily be grilled ahead and served at room temperature, or you can grill them while your meat rests. Serve the vegetables on a platter with Saffron Aioli Dressing on the side, or add the chopped grilled vegetables to pasta, farro or rice for a substantial meatless dish. Easier yet: brush pita halves with oil, warm on the grill then stuff with vegetables and a drizzle of dressing. -- Choice of vegetables (see Note) -- Extra virgin olive oil as needed -- Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper -- Saffron Aioli Dressing (see recipe) Instructions: Preheat grill to medium to medium-high heat, then clean grate. Slice vegetables to maximize surface area and minimize the number of pieces (for example, slice zucchini in half lengthwise, eggplant into 1/2- to 3/4-inch rounds, potatoes lengthwise). Brush vegetables with oil or roll in a small pan containing a thin layer of oil; season with salt and pepper to taste. Just before cooking, lightly oil grate with paper towel held with tongs. Place denser vegetables on the grill first since they will take longer to cook. Turn vegetables over and move around over any hot spots for more even cooking. Vegetables are done when browned to your liking and the texture ranges from soft to slightly al dente. Cooking time will vary depending on the heat of the grill. Note: Good choices to grill include asparagus, corn, whole carrots, eggplant, fennel, leeks, red or spring onion, portobello mushrooms, red bell pepper, yellow crookneck squash, zucchini and medium-sized Yukon gold potatoes. After cooking, brush the still-warm vegetables with different vinaigrettes if you like. Nutritional analysis not possible due to the general nature of the recipe. Wine pairing: Vegetables vary so widely that it can be challenging to chose a wine to go with a mixed serving. Grilling adds a bit of char, which levels the playing field somewhat as long as the wine doesn't fight with the vegetable flavors or the char. Try the versatile 2007 Feudi di San Gregorio Sannio Campania Falanghina Bianco ($16). See Page D6 for details. affron aioli dressing Makes approximately 1/4 cup This can be made a day ahead. -- Pinch saffron threads, crumbled 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon lemon juice 1/4 teaspoon finely minced or pressed garlic (see Note) 1/4 cup prepared mayonnaise 1 tablespoon rice vinegar Instructions: Place saffron threads in a small bowl, or in the base of a mortar and pestle. Add 1/4 teaspoon lemon juice and steep a minute or two to extract the saffron's color and flavor. Add garlic and, if using a pestle, blend into a paste. Combine thoroughly with the mayonnaise. Taste and adjust seasoning. Per tablespoon: 100 calories, 0 g protein, 0 g carbohydrate, 11 g fat (2 g saturated), 10 mg cholesterol, 75 mg sodium, 0 g fiber. E-mail Lynne Char Bennett at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/17/FD8L17FFFS.DTL This article appeared on page D - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle © 2009 Hearst Communications Inc. | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site Index | Contact:: -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 6 months

[wine] Two Buck Dundee

by Jim L. Ellingson

Affordable-wine crusader making lot of cents Jon Bonnéunday, May 17, 2009 Silly me, suggesting to Fred Franzia - lord of Two Buck Chuck - that his wines are low priced. "Who says we're lower priced? We're the best price. The others, I think, are overpriced," he retorts. "Maybe we're the ones who are right and everyone else is wrong because they're overcharging." At a moment when expensive wines are fully in the doldrums, when high-priced Cabernets gather dust in warehouses, Franzia is sounding pretty logical. After all, wine drinkers are trading down. Two Buck Chuck may have resonated in a sound economy, but these should be salad days for Franzia's Bronco Wine Co. in Ceres (Stanislaus County), which produces not only Charles Shaw but also Crane Lake, Napa Ridge and dozens more inexpensive (surely that term would fly) labels. They are. Bronco's sales by volume are as much as 25 percent ahead of last year, Charles Shaw is currently running at about 6 million cases annually and no less a publication than the New Yorker profiles Franzia this week about his quest toward 100 million cases a year. Franzia says markets like China want to take Chuck global; next month he plans to unveil an Australian Chardonnay, Down Under, at half the price of Yellow Tail. His only worry seems to be that he might run out of wine - even though he controls reportedly 40,000 acres and buys far more in bulk. "We'll probably have to allocate. Imagine that." After his endless battles with the wine elite - notably his unsuccessful court fight with the Napa Valley Vintners - irony drips off those words when Franzia says them. This is the year, after all, when cult-wine allocations are being busted, when retailers can cherry-pick the finest wines. And yet many wineries still won't flinch on pricing. Suddenly, Franzia's crusade against high prices - he still believes no wine should cost more than 10 bucks - has an eerie resonance. Granted, the wisdom should be considered in context. Franzia still despises talk of terroir and insists appellations smaller than plain old California are "the worst thing to happen to this industry"; he shrugs off concerns about water supplies to his San Joaquin Valley grapes. He's also still facing blowback after a pregnant 17-year-old worker died last year while working a vineyard controlled by a company tied to Bronco. But at a time when logic is a precious commodity in the wine industry, Franzia is working smart - reducing weights of most bottles by about 4 ounces. When you're Bronco, with an estimated 20 million cases per year, that's a lot less weight to be hauling around. He's not the only one ready to capitalize on a down market. A handful of high-end labels are starting to trim prices, like Chappellet, which lowered the price of its 2006 Signature Cabernet to $42 from $51. But the pain felt around Napa Valley - Franzia's longtime foil - seems to fill him with glee. Two Buck Chuck taps into a fundamental, inconvenient fact: At some point, most people want basic, drinkable and cheap. Yet it should feel respectable, which is why Franzia won't switch to plastic from the corks he uses in Charles Shaw (more an assemblage of small cork bits than a single piece of bark), despite an estimated $3 million savings. Chuck looks, basically, like a real bottle of wine. And California's wine market bolsters Franzia's stance. Bulk wine - either a winery's excess or juice that didn't make the cut - is the engine of all those cheap labels. (Bronco has mastered the art of blending endless lots into something drinkable.) Despite two slight vintages in 2007 and 2008, Napa and Sonoma wines face falling prices on the bulk market, while buyers increasingly seek cheaper Central Valley fruit. Chris Welch, a partner in the Ciatti Co. wine brokerage, is suddenly hearing from "higher-end guys" wanting to make under-$10 wines for the first time. In other words, to tangle in Franzia's world. So Franzia is waiting for August, when top producers with wine still in tanks are forced to sell cheap before the 2009 vintage. If that wine ends up in Bronco's bottles, well, that's how Two Buck Chuck got started. "There's plenty of prestige, in my opinion, in being able to afford consumers wine at a price they can they can drink every day," he concludes. A sage bit of advice for gentleman farmers out there, tending fields of attempted glory. Jon Bonnés The Chronicle's wine editor. E-mail him at jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com or find him at sfgate.com/blogs/thecellarist. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/17/FDFN17IDUL.DTL -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 6 months

[wine] Every Day Zins SFGC

by Jim L. Ellingson

OK Warren, Her you go. BTW, co-workers tell me there's a "swine flu sale" on spare ribs at Rainbow or Cub. I see $2/lb at da 'bow. Cheers, Jim The Chronicle Recommends: Zinfandel $15 or less Lynne Char Bennett Sunday, May 10, 2009 More... California's claim to viniferous fame is Zinfandel, a grape variety first planted in the 19th century by immigrants. Nowhere else in the world is this grape so widely planted. Amador County, Dry Creek Valley, Lodi and Paso Robles are all regions where Zinfandel is a major player. This grape - a challenge to ripen evenly - is generally grown in warm climates where it may over-ripen. Fans of Zin's hedonistic style appreciate the full body, soft to minimal tannins and dark juicy berry aromas and flavors that can become jammy. There are increasingly more examples that serve as table wine, with lighter body and ripe fruit balanced with acidity. Along with everything else, the price of Zinfandel is rising. Prices upwards of $50 are not uncommon, though bottlings with the California appellation are usually affordable enough for everyday enjoyment. Our recommendations include both fruit forward and more restrained examples. 2007 Bogle Vineyards Old Vine California Zinfandel ($11) With a legacy of family farming since the mid-1800s, Warren Bogle and son Chris planted their first 20-acre vineyard in 1968, which has grown to 1,200 acres. Christopher Smith, director of winemaking, used fruit from dry-farmed 40- to 80-year-old vines located in Lodi and Amador County in this bottling. Deep, layered aromas of dark berry and cherry with hints of leather and spice; chocolate-covered cherry on a juicy palate without over-the-top jamminess. Good value. 2007 Joel Gott California Zinfandel ($15) Joel Gott, who is involved in a multitude of wine projects, bottles Zinfandel under several labels, including his eponymous value-priced line. Gott is another producer using old-vine fruit from Lodi and Amador County, which provides intensity and structure. Sonoma and Napa Valley grapes were added, making a wine with intense berry, black cherry and peppery spice with anise hints; lingering tart acidity on the finish. 2007 McManis Family Vineyards California Zinfandel ($11) Winemakers Jeff Runquist and Mike Robustelli execute the vision of fourth-generation family farmers Ron and Jamie McManis, who founded their winery in 1990. Lightly perfumed nose has ripe black cherry, bramble and briary fruit, with attractive spice/camphor hints. Sweet fruit flavors, light tannins and more reddish fruit on the long finish. Fermented in stainless steel then aged four to six months in new and used oak barrels. 2007 Ravenswood Vintners Blend California Zinfandel ($10) The best-known of Ravenswood's bottlings - the Vintners Blend from winemaker Joel Peterson - is made from California's traditional Zinfandel-growing regions. Its straightforward nose of both red and black fruit is underscored with a bit of loam and black cherry cola. Darker berry and cherry-ish palate, with modest tannins that would be good with a medium-rare burger. Blended with 24 percent other black grapes, including Carignane and Petite Sirah. 2007 Sobon Estate Old Vine Amador County Zinfandel ($14) This is Leon and Shirley Sobon's second winery, which they purchased in 1989 for their 30th anniversary. Like their original Shenandoah Vineyards, Sobon produces fruit-forward, low-tannin wines from sustainably farmed grapes. This old-vine bottling is deep, rich and extracted, involving aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry that follow on the full-bodied palate. Its acidity keeps it from going over the top. Includes 3 percent Petite Sirah. - Lynne Char Bennett, lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2009/05/10/FDCV17E4UU.DTL This article appeared on page J - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle © 2009 Hearst Communications Inc. | Privacy Policy | Feedback | RSS Feeds | FAQ | Site Index | Contact -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 6 months

[wine] Guide to Champagne

by Jim L. Ellingson

Mmmmm. Champagne. but $89 a year is a bit stiff. That's 3 bottles of Champagne! An in-depth guide to Champagne Craig Lee/The Chronicle It takes a steady hand ... For as much as Champagne is beloved, there's a gaping void in advice about it once you move beyond the same few obvious names. Part of this is intentional: Champagne more than most places is dominated by its largest brands (in turn run by large corporations with more than bubbles on their minds), and despite the endless enthusiasm of we writer types for many smaller houses, most have neither the money nor werewithal to compete. So Champagne remains wrapped in a well-woven mystique. It has been a pleasure, then, to road-test the newly launched ChampagneGuide.net, created by Peter Liem, a writer and senior correspondent for Wine & Spirits who moved to the Champagne village of Dizy in 2006 from the United States. (Liem is also a contributor to The Chronicle.) Liem is one of the keenest Champagne tasters around. After nearly three years of filling notebooks, he has turned his collected wisdom into one of the most comprehensive efforts yet on the subject, writing with an informed on-the-ground perspective that's virtually unmatched. Profiles of more than 100 houses are already available -- a mix of famous names like Krug and obscure gems like Ulysse Collin. Liem plans to add more regularly; Champagne has thousands of producers, so he has no shortage of source material, but as readers of his blog know, he has a precise radar for newsworthy and talented vignerons, regardless of size. The profiles are perhaps the most detailed anywhere, expanding on works like Richard Juhlin's "4000 Champagnes" and Tom Stevenson's "Champagne." Liem elevates them above the usual frothy prose, as he offers a sense of each house's philosophy, style and methods of working. (Example: Larmandier-Bernier finds spraying with a helicopter beneficial for its biodynamic regimes.) Tasting notes -- with about a half-dozen for each producer, there's already more than 600 -- are equally thoughtful, with Liem's precise palate extending well beyond the usual mix of fruit. The Gatinois Brut Rosérand Cru is "a vividly aromatic wine, showing brambly notes of crushed red fruit with the peculiar sense of concentrated berries typical of (the Champagne town of) Ay." Added bonus: A Google mashup map locates each producer, providing a valuable geographic anchor often missing from discussion of Champagne. At $89/year, it is priced for the connoisseur. I asked Liem about the pricing last week, and he said he wanted to price competitively but felt that amount was the least he could justify for his years of work. (At a time when it's fashionable to give away your collected wisdom online, that's a laudable stance.) He intends to expand to other formats including, potentially, the dead-tree sort. Of course, the price is about two bottles worth of good Champagne. If you drink more than that in a year, Champagneguide.net should prove a valuable guide through a region where quality is often obscured by endless layers of marketing fizz. More at Champagneguide.net. (See a sample profile here.) Y mucho mas: If you haven't yet checked out the 30/30 project by Chronicle contributor Paul Clarke to commemorate the fourth anniversary of his Cocktail Chronicles site, do so. Like so many bloggers (say it, brother) Paul found his original momentum for writing about new cocktails had flagged. This is his revival effort (currently on No. 27) with everything from the Tchoupitoulas Street Guzzle to more au courant picks like the Wibble. The only thing better than a week of cocktails is a full month; 30/30 is like cocktail grad school on overdrive. Posted By: Jon BonnéEmail) | May 14 2009 at 01:50 PM Listed Under: Champagne, Cocktails, France, Sparkling Wine, Spirits, Web -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

16 years, 6 months

[wine] who says Zinfandel and Bar BQ don't go together?

by warren gregory

Zinfandel and Barbecue for Memorial DayA rib recipe from New York's Blue Smoke restaurant, plus nine great Zinfandels to pour alongsideLaurie WooleverPosted: Friday, May 15, 2009Memorial Day marks, in many parts of the United States, the start of outdoor grilling season, and the long holiday weekend affords you the time to do some proper barbecuing. Kenny Callaghan, executive chef and partner at New York's Blue Smoke, provided this flavorful recipe for baby back ribs that are seasoned with a savory spice rub, then started in the oven and finished on the grill. We've also included an excellent barbecue sauce recipe. And because barbecue and Zinfandel have a natural affinity, we've put together a selection of 9 recently rated Zinfandels to pour at the pincic table.BABY BACK RIBS Rib recipe by chef Kenny Callaghan of Blue Smoke; sauce recipe adapted from Steven Raichlen's How to Grill (Workman 2001).For the rub: • 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper • 1/2 teaspoon Spanish paprika • 1/2 teaspoon granulated onion • 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper • 1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper • 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt • 1 teaspoon granulated garlic • 1 teaspoon ancho chile powder • 1 teaspoon chile powder • 1 teaspoon ground cumin • 1 teaspoon celery salt • 2 teaspoons sugar • 1 teaspoon dark brown sugarFor the meat: • 2 full racks baby back ribs, skin removedFor the barbecue sauce: (you may also use your favorite recipe or prepared sauce): • 2 cups ketchup • 1/4 cup cider vinegar • 1/4 cup Worcestershire sauce • 1/4 cup firmly packed brown sugar • 2 tablespoons molasses • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard • 1 1/2 tablespoons Tabasco • 1 tablespoon chili powder • 2 teaspoons liquid smoke • 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1. In a large bowl, combine all the rub ingredients and mix well. Place both racks of ribs on a cutting board or wood slab. Gently massage the rub mixture into the ribs, making sure to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours.2. Pre-heat oven to 300°. Place ribs on baking sheet in pre-heated oven. Ribs should cook for two hours, or until tender.3. While the pork cooks, make the barbecue sauce. Combine the ketchup, vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, sugar, molasses, mustard, Tabasco, chili powder, liquid smoke and black pepper in a nonreactive saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce heat to medium and simmer 10 to 15 minutes or until sauce is dark, thick and rich. Adjust sweetness, sourness and hot pepper to taste.4. Heat your outdoor grill to high heat. In a small saucepan, warm the barbecue sauce over low heat. Remove the ribs from the oven and transfer to the grill. Cook for 5 minutes, then turn and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Brush the warmed barbecue sauce over the meat and cook the ribs for 2 minutes more on each side. Remove from the grill and let sit 5 minutes.5. Using a sharp knife, cut ribs in between bones. Serve immediately. For saucier ribs, apply a second coat of warmed sauce just before serving. Serves 6 to 8.ZINFANDELS FOR MEMORIAL DAYORIN SWIFT The Prisoner Napa Valley 2007 Score: 92 | $35Offers both style and structure, with lively aromas of black raspberry, cracked pepper and mocha that lead to plush, layered flavors of wild berry, fresh sage and licorice. Ripe tannins sneak in on the finish. Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Charbono and Grenache. Drink now through 2014. 39,000 cases made. —T.F.SEGHESIO Zinfandel Sonoma County Old Vine 2006 Score: 92 | $36This is what great Zinfandel is all about. Ripe but balanced with lively acidity, jammy but concentrated and well-structured. Offers fresh wild berry, raspberry, vanilla and cracked pepper notes, but with layers of intriguing sage, lively mineral and smoke accents. Drink now through 2014. 8,600 cases made. —T.F.RIDGE Geyserville Sonoma County 2006 Score: 90 | $35Just like the tasty Sonoma field-style blends of yore, with distinct toasty dill and berry cobbler aromas and zesty raspberry, cracked pepper and earthy sage flavors that end with slightly rustic tannins. Zinfandel, Carignane, Petite Sirah and Mataro. Drink now through 2015. 12,000 cases made. —T.F.MURPHY-GOODE Zinfandel Sonoma County Liar's Dice 2006 Score: 89 | $21A vibrant and jammy wine, with lively raspberry and pepper aromas and soft, supple black cherry and toasty vanilla flavors. Drink now through 2013. 11,000 cases made. —T.F.RIDGE Three Valleys Sonoma County 2006 Score: 89 | $22A ripe bruiser, yet with an underlying sense of structure and finesse. Shows aromas of blueberry pie and toasty dill, with concentrated plum, licorice and smoky pepper flavors that are wrapped in muscular tannins. Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Carignane and Grenache. Best from 2010 through 2015. 26,000 cases made. —T.F.RAVENSWOOD Zinfandel Napa Valley Old Vine 2006 Score: 88 | $18Offers smoky plum aromas and stout, deep blueberry, sage and licorice flavors that finish with burly tannins. Best from 2010 through 2014. 22,000 cases made. —T.F.BEAULIEU VINEYARD Zinfandel Napa Valley 2006 Score: 87 | $13Appealing smoky wild berry aromas lead to dense huckleberry, white pepper and herb notes that build toward big but ripe tannins. Drink now through 2012. 7,000 cases made. —T.F.ARTEZIN Zinfandel Mendocino County 2007 Score: 86 | $18Distinctive aromas of fresh basil, thyme and plum lead to modest but spicy blackberry and herb flavors. Drink now through 2013. 15,000 cases made. —T.F.NAPA CELLARS Zinfandel Napa Valley 2005 Score: 86 | $22Briary but appealing for its smoky plum aromas and boysenberry, roasted sage and loam flavors. Drink now through 2012. 5,200 cases made. —T.F.

16 years, 6 months

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