Or SC CS if your prefere palindromic acronyms.
Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday, September 19, 2008
A few grape varieties do particularly well in appellations within Sonoma County, such as Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel and Russian River Pinot Noir. Though it's somewhat overshadowed by neighboring Napa Valley, Sonoma County also does well with Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2007, the red variety was second only to Chardonnay's acreage and tons crushed. We tasted 75 wines from Sonoma County and its appellations, from several vintages: 2006, 2005, 2004 and a few 2003s. More than half were 2005s, from which our favorite three-star wines emerged.
Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Arrowood Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)
Owner-winemaker Richard Arrowood - who helped pioneer California's vineyard-designated bottlings - and co-owner and wife, Alis, founded their eponymous winery in 1986, but it's now owned by Jackson Family Wines. Nose of sweet blackberry, olive tapenade and mint, plus cigar box and over-roasted black fruit. Could use a bit more fruit flavor to balance assertive tannins and black plum skin finish. Its 15.2 percent alcohol is well handled. Includes 7.2 percent Merlot, 1.6 percent Malbec and 1.3 percent Petit Verdot.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 B.R. Cohn Olive Hill Estate Vineyards Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($55)
This vineyard is warmed by natural underground hot springs. Winemaker Tom Montgomery has made a lovely wine with Cabernet Sauvignon fruit and violet aromas backed by dry leaf, tobacco, spice and a somewhat stark mineral note. Balanced palate of black plum acidity, dark cassis and oak char. Long, well-structured finish has vigor and generosity. 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 24 months in French oak barrels. B.R. Cohn is also known for its olive oils and vinegars.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 DeLoach Wild Creek Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($38)
This is DeLoach's only single-vineyard Cabernet, which is made by winemakers Julia Crosby and Brian Maloney with consulting winemaker Greg La Follete. A slightly dusty beginning; subtle but lively berry, sweet cherry nose with hints of raspberry sauce and leaf. Palate shows more tart red fruit - cranberry and pomegranate - supported by hints of beef broth and dried herb. Refined tannins on the finish outlast the fruit a bit.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Dreyer Sonoma Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($15)
Chalk Hill provides 68 percent of the fruit with the remainder from Alexander Valley and Mendocino. Aromas and flavors of blackberry, pomegranate cherry aromas surrounded with oak sawdust and chile-spiked chocolate. Solid vanillin joins the mix as do slight tea tannins, which provide food-friendly grip. Straightforward but balanced; aged in new American oak.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Dry Creek Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($23)
Rich oak and chocolate on the nuanced nose, plus sunflower seed, tobacco and sweet blackberry. Spicier flavors punch up the ripe fruit - more red than black - and an acidic punch and soft but somewhat grainy tannins on the finish. With 6 percent Merlot, 6 percent Petit Verdot, 4 percent Malbec and 3 percent Cabernet Franc in the blend.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Lake Sonoma Winery Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
Aromas of cherry, light spice and spicy oak; some fruit and gravelly mineral peek through the oak nose. More tannic and tight - the oak diminishes the black cherry fruit a bit. Some hints of grain on the finish that shows some length. This 100 percent Cabernet Sauvignon was barrel-aged for 28 months after finishing fermentation in French and American oak barrels.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Louis M. Martini Monte Rosso Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($85)
Grapes from the best blocks of the Monte Rosso vineyard - owned by the Louis M. Martini winery since 1938 - went into this bottling. A nose of refined oak, spiced pomegranate, cran-raspberry, slight potpourri and charcoal. This is a big, structured wine with wonderfully refined, but still chewy tannins enrobed in sweet cherry pie filling, warm blackberry and plum skin. Broad, lengthy finish with great generosity for its size. Aged in French oak barrels for 26 months; includes 2 percent Petit Verdot.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Mazzocco Sonoma County Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($24)
Mazzocco - owned by Ken and Diane Wilson - is perhaps better known for high-octane Zinfandel, but winemaker Antoine Favero also makes a big Cab. A more aromatic, perfumed nose that shows sweet cacao, blackberry, dried branch and touch of meatiness that gives it depth. Fuller and richer with weighty, finely grained tannins that fill the back of the palate and provide definition and length. With 6 percent Merlot blended in; aged 18 months in French and American oak barrels.
Rating: TWO STARS Michael Pozzan Winery Special Reserve Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($16)
The Pozzan family has a long winemaking tradition, originally in Piedmont, Italy, around the 1800s. Subdued nose of musk, cocoa and plum highlights on nose and palate with a grippier, tough style on finish that has some lingering oak spice. The more evident tannins are offset by bright red fruit highlights
Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Owl Ridge T.R. Passalacqua Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($42)
Dusty loam and herb aromas over the blackberry and tart orange highlights that sport a cool mint, eucalyptus note. Palate has some interest despite some drying tannins; tart black fruit, hint of woody spice and lingering acidity.
Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Pellegrini Family Vineyards Cloverdale Ranch Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($28)
Aged loam and soy sauce aromas add complexity and are lifted by bright, ripe berry-black cherry fruit. Sharp cassis, beautiful fruit complexity and fine-boned, tannic structure with walnut skin hints on the complex palate. Depth, refinement and great balance. Aged 19 months in a combination of French, Hungarian and American oak.
Rating: TWO STARS 2004 Rodney Strong Reserve Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($40)
An earthier nose of salty meat, herbal tea and almost lean red fruit spiked with Asian spice. Bing cherry, cassis and salty dark fruit palate; the spice maintains its strength.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Sbragia Family Vineyards Andolsen Vineyard Dry Creek Valley Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($35)
Smashed blackberry, black olive, smoky charcuterie and woody/herbal nose. More compelling palate starts with an earthy base, dark, concentrated fruit and a bit of char finishes with assertive but finely grained tannins. A powerful, brooding style.
Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Sbragia Family Vineyards Monte Rosso Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)
Monte Rosso means red mountain; this vineyard is named for its red volcanic soil. Lavender, dry herb, mint chocolate and roasted blackberry, and concentrated fruit aromas. Flavors tend to deep black fruit, a subtle savory quality, allspice and a touch of oak, which provides lovely structure. Seamless and integrated. A long, focused finish.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Souverain Alexander Valley Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon ($22)
Made from multiple vineyards' fruit, including that of Souverain's 120-year-old Alexander Valley estate. A more involved nose showing loamy mineral, earth, soy and a lift of sweet plum and cassis. The palate is a bit chewy with a dark chocolate hint and bit of char on the finish. Stronger focus of dark fruit in this balanced effort. Winemaker Ed Killian included 3 percent Syrah, 1.5 percent Petite Sirah and 1.5 percent Cabernet Franc.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Stuhlmuller Vineyards Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($36)
Winemaker Leo Hansen used different vineyard blocks in this wine, with each block planted to a different clone of Cabernet Sauvignon. A slight herbal tang and pepper overlay the fruit aromas that also show loam notes. An enticing palate of cocoa, plum skin and roast blackberry still maintains its bright zip. Somewhat firm, drying tannins on the nicely tart finish. Barrel aged a total of 24 months; includes 5 percent Petit Verdot and 1.5 percent Cabernet Franc in the blend.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS Ty Caton Caton Vineyard Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)
Meatier aromas show a savory side backed with cassis, spearmint gum, herb, cocoa powder and dried branch. Weightier palate that has a bit of tannin, finely grained with good structure and acid balance. Well made.
Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Brian Gavin, general manager, Conduit. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine.
Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good
- Lynne Char Bennett
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/19/WIC012JOCT.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Friends,
if you can open this, an interview with Didier Dagueneau who was recently killed in a ultra-lite flying accident.
Way too bad.
If you have any of his wines they have gone from precious to priceless. Enjoy them.
Warren Gregory
The group is meeting tonight at Sapor. Usual 6:30 p.m. time. Theme is
wine appropriate to Sapor, i.e., high acid. Normal arrangement of $5
per head corkage.
NOTICE: Unless restricted by law, email correspondence to and from Anoka
County government offices may be public data subject to the Minnesota
Data Practices Act and/or may be disclosed to third parties.
Anyone know where we might find the Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture Vignali?
3.5 stars for a saw buck... (X = 10 = saw buck or saw horse)
I'd be up for splitting a case if we need to order it.
C,
J
September 17, 2008
WINES OF THE TIMES
An Italian Name Worth Practicing
By ERIC ASIMOV
ALL right, class, summer vacation is long gone and school is well under way, but I.m forced to interrupt our curriculum for a quick review session.
Why is this? Because it.s come to my attention that a crucial word in the lexicon of Italian wines has fallen by the wayside.
That word is aglianico, which, just to be clear, is pronounced ah-lee-YAHN-ee-koh, and which is the name of the leading red grape of southern Italy.
Yet the entire category of aglianico wines seems to pass unnoticed by most people, which is a shame because they have so much pleasure to offer.
In an effort to remedy this sad state of affairs the wine panel recently sampled 25 aglianico wines, mostly from the two leading aglianico regions, Campania and Basilicata, with a couple of other areas sprinkled in. Florence Fabricant and I were joined for the tasting by two guests, Chris Cannon, an owner of Alto and Convivio, and Charles Scicolone, a wine consultant.
Both Chris and Charles agreed that aglianico wines languish unfairly out of the minds of most consumers. Part of the reason is simply that the wines are overshadowed by more familiar names like Chianti, Barolo and even Valpolicella.
More important is the diffuse nature of aglianico production, which has prevented any one name or region from becoming well known. In addition, while the grape is ancient, widespread production for international consumption is relatively recent.
Winemaking has always been important in Campania, which forms a half moon inland from the Mediterranean, encompassing Naples, and in Basilicata, at the arch of the boot between Apulia.s heel and Calabria.s toe. But until about 20 years ago the wines were largely for local consumption.
Change has come with lightning speed. Mirroring developments all over former vinous backwaters of Europe, government assistance has helped dozens of farmers, who used to sell their grapes to cooperatives, go into winemaking themselves. Cooperatives, once notorious sources for poor wine, have improved exponentially, and viticulture and winemaking have moved into a new age.
In fact, our No. 1 wine came from a co-op in Basilicata, Cantina di Venosa. Its 2003 aglianico del Vulture Vignali is as good a $10 wine as anybody is likely to find, dense and pure with classic aglianico flavors of sour cherry, minerals and leather.
All of us were surprised and pleased by the high level of quality throughout. While we found a few overtly modern wines that pander to consumers with sweet fruit and oaky flavors, most were balanced, well-knit and dry.
For years, the aglianico torch was largely carried by two producers, Mastroberardino in Campania, best known for its Radici from the Taurasi zone, and Paternoster in Basilicata, which has long made exemplary aglianicos from the volcanic soils of Mount Vulture (pronounced VOOL-too-reh). Now, dozens of producers export their wines to the United States. Sadly, we couldn.t find wines from some of the top producers, like Paternoster, Antonio Caggiano and Galardi, which makes Terra di Lavoro, as close as an aglianico wine comes to cult status.
Surprisingly, our No. 2 wine wasn.t from Campania or Basilicata, but from Apulia. The 2003 Tormaresca Bocca di Lupo, from Castel del Monte in northern Apulia, was clearly in the modern style, with plenty of oak, but it was structured and harmonious with a pronounced aglianico identity. It isn.t my preferred style, but it.s well-made.
With the dollar down, aglianico is no longer the value it once was, our $10 winner notwithstanding. Neither of the two most expensive wines in our tasting made the cut. Both showed the effects of expensive modern winemaking . the 2003 aglianico del Vulture Vigna Della Corona from Tenuta le Querce at $73 was sweet and jammy, while the 2004 Naima from De Conciliis at $60 was much too oaky.
Then again, our No. 1 wine was the only one of the eight wines for $20 and under that did make the cut. That left a sizeable middle ground, with top-flight wines like the earthy 2004 Cretarossa aglianico d.Irpinia from I Favati and the spicy, pure 2003 aglianico del Taburno from Ocone.
The aglianico grape is fairly tannic, though not as tannic as the nebbiolo, to which it is often compared. Still, depending on the wine and the vintage, aglianicos are best enjoyed after 5 to 10 years of aging. Some wines, like our No. 6, the 2003 Taurasi Cinque Querce from Salvatore Molettieri, may age for much longer because of the density of its flavors. Mastroberardino.s Taurasi Radici has a history of aging well (the 1968 is a lovely wine today), but the 2003, our No. 8 wine, seems a little too soft to last even half that long.
I.m usually very happy to find aglianicos on wine lists. The subtlety of the fruit and the fact that they can be dry and intense without being heavy makes them good companions to a variety of meat, poultry and pasta dishes.
With their fairly recent entry into the world of modern winemaking, aglianicos are bound to get better as new vineyards mature, and winemakers and growers gain more experience. Now is the time to get in on the fun.
Don.t say I didn.t try to tell you.
Tasting Report: Out of the Shadows, Ready for Subtle Pleasures
BEST VALUE
Cantina di Venosa Aglianico del Vulture Vignali 2003 $10 *** 1/2
Dense, intense and pure with aromas and flavors of sour cherry, earth, minerals and leather. (Winebow/Leonardo LoCascio Selections, New York)
Tormaresca Castel del Monte Bocca di Lupo 2003 $38 ***
Well-done modern take on aglianico with balanced flavors of cherry, earth and oak. (Ré Cointreau USA, New York)
I Favati Aglianico d.Irpinia Cretarossa 2004 $22 ***
Earthy and tannic with good underlying flavors of fruit and minerals. (Vinity Wine/Dino Capriotti, Emeryville, Calif.)
Ocone Aglianico del Taburno 2003 $40 ** 1/2
Spicy and complex with tart cherry flavors. (Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.)
Casa Maschito Aglianico del Vulture La Bottaia 2003 $29 ** 1/2
Funky and lively, with smoky dark fruit and mineral flavors. (U.S.A. Wine Imports, New York)
Salvatore Molettieri Taurasi Cinque Querce 2003 $46 ** 1/2
Dense tar, earth and oak aromas; balanced with good underlying fruit. (Michael Skurnik Wines/Marc De Grazia Selections, Syosset, N.Y.)
D.Angelo Aglianico del Vulture Riserva Caselle 2003 $39 ** 1/2
Modern and oaky yet well balanced with spicy cherry and earth flavors. (Domenico Valentino Selections, New York)
Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici 2003 $38 **
Aromas of plush fruit, flowers, earth and oak. (Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, Calif.)
Vigne Irpine Aglianico d.Irpinia Giubilo 2005 $23 **
Dense and modern, but balanced with tart cherry and earth flavors. (Monarchia Matt International, Armonk, N.Y.)
Tenuta del Portale Aglianico del Vulture Pian del Carro 2004 $35 **
Straightforward, harmonious and easy to enjoy. (Domenico Valentino Selections, New York)
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Picks With Personality
By Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg
Wednesday, September 17, 2008; F05
The 2004 Provenance Vineyards Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon was awarded an impressive 91 points by a leading wine magazine. We'd rate the 2005 vintage an 8.
That is, an 8 on the enneagram, a widespread personality typing system that has been taught by as varied a set of groups as the FBI, the Jesuits and Stanford Business School.
Thinking of wines as having personalities can help you make better pairings with food. With that in mind, the powerhouse 2005 Provenance Vineyards Rutherford cab ($40) surely qualifies on this nine-point system as the Challenger, or one that must have its own way. As Andrew's pick this week, it's a full-bodied and intensely flavored red that could obliterate light dishes.
In exploring how the enneagram could be applied to wine, we brainstormed with creativity expert Michael J. Gelb, author of the bestselling "How to Think Like Leonardo da Vinci." Gelb also collects wines, and he says the enneagram is one of the most useful tools for understanding their differences. After all, as he puts it, "The finest wines have their own personality, expressing the unique characteristics of the grape, earth and season."
We typed various wines, then compared notes with Gelb.
9: The Peacemaker. The heart of a 9 is its agreeable nature, which can mediate any situation. No matter what food is on the table, a 9 wine goes along cheerfully. Rosés the ultimate 9: Its dominant characteristics morph seamlessly from those of a white to those of a red as need be. Keep an eye out for the newly released and exceptionally food-friendly 2007 Tapeñosé$10) from Spain and the 2007 Kim Crawford Gisborne Rosé$13) from New Zealand.
8: The Challenger. Like the Provenance Rutherford cab, these wines dominate. The wine comes first, and the food (almost invariably red meat) must bend to its mighty will. Gelb says, "Barolo, 'the king of wines,' is an 8." We also think of tannic cab, malbec, tannat and petite sirah; one of the best and most restrained type-8 wines we tasted this year was the 2004 Neal Family Napa Valley Petite Syrah ($40).
7: The Enthusiast. The ultimate epicure, this type celebrates joie de vivre. Gelb counts himself in this category; when it comes to wine, champagne, with its lively bubbles, is the quintessential example. Pop a cork, and it's ready to party with anything except red meat -- and a roséhampagne will dance with that, too. With its creamy lemon curd flavors, whisper of sweetness and streams of exuberant bubbles, Karen's pick this week, the NV J Cuvee 20 Russian River Valley Brut ($32), will lift your spirits and the flavors of virtually any hors d'oeuvre, especially fried or salty ones.
6: The Loyalist. Always there and always reliable, it's your house wine, pairing well with most of the dishes you like to eat at home. Gelb's house wine is the 2004 Muga Reserva Unfiltered Rioja ($26), which he characterizes as "a phenomenal value" for its "remarkable elegance, complexity and depth." When we're not tasting for this column or our next book, our more modest household opts for one of our favorite Rieslings or, with red-sauced pasta or roast pork, something like the light- to medium-bodied 2006 Tortoise Creek Central Coast Merlot ($12).
5: The Investigator. These are "meditation" wines that you can sit in a corner with and examine. With them, food is beside the point. Old Bordeaux is a prime example that Gelb classifies as "the most intellectual wine." Also worth investigating are wines featuring unusual varietals, including charmers such as the 2007 Clayhouse Central Coast Adobe White ($15), a chenin blanc-dominant blend. It contains 22 percent Princess wine grapes, which have yet to be recognized by the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau, so the grape composition listed on the label totals just 78 percent.
4: The Individualist. When Robert Louis Stevenson wrote that "wine is bottled poetry," he was surely referring to a pinot noir. "It's a 4 wine: elusive, artistic, romantic and difficult to understand," Gelb says. The 2005 Faiveley Domaine de la Croix Jacquelet Mercurey ($23) is a red Burgundy from a classic vintage that delivers impressive value while pairing beautifully with mushroom, salmon, tuna and lamb dishes.
3: The Achiever. Lots of actors are Type 3s, in that they can perform any role. Chardonnay can do the same: still to sparkling, dry to sweet, steely to oaky. "High-powered California chardonnay is a 3 that will do anything to entertain and hold your attention," Gelb says. The 2006 Matanzas Creek Sonoma Valley Chardonnay ($30; $25 at Calvert Woodley) boasts balanced oak and a hint of botrytised fruit, and it can star with chicken or pork in a creamy mustard sauce.
2: The Helper. We think of sweet, semi-sparkling Moscato d'Asti and big, fruity shiraz, with all their food-friendliness, as typical 2 wines. "Australian shiraz gives everything and just wants to overwhelm you with love," Gelb says. That's certainly the case with the 2005 Omrah Shiraz ($18) from western Australia, whose bright cherry and blackberry fruit and pepper notes cozy up to lamb.
1: The Perfectionist. Sauternes is the ultimate 1 wine. "It transforms [noble] rot into perfection," Gelb says. Match it with Roquefort cheese and you have a holy grail pairing.
As a 1, Karen identifies with perfectionists on a quest for ideal matches in every wine-and-food-pairing situation. Luckily, as a 9, Andrew keeps the peace by reminding her that any agreeable match is worth taking pleasure in.
Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, authors of "The Flavor Bible" and "What to Drink With What You Eat," can be reached through their Web site, http://www.becomingachef.com, or at food(a)washpost.com.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
FYI - Sorrella Th, Fri at 5:30 - 7:30, Saturday 4 to 6.
Free, indoor parking. Enter on 10th St.
Nice stems.
Nice store.
There was talk of going to DaVinci. Not sure if anything became of it.
Best to go to the website. Acrobat isn't good at text....
http://www.sorellawines.com/Fall%20Tastings.pdf
Sorella Wine & Spirits Fall Wine Sale Tastings
Description Vintage Color Price Sale Notes
Thursday 9/18
Red 19.99 15.97
2 Brothers,Big tattoo Red,2005 2005 Red 9.99 7.97
Alamos,Chardonnay,2006 2007 White 10.99 8.97
The Formula,Rob's Shiraz,2004 Red 17.99 13.97
First Love,Red,2006 Red 13.49 10.97
Benoit,CDP GG,2005 Red 31.99 24.97
Abundance,Bountiful Blanc,2006 White 13.99 10.97
Statti,Gaglioppo,2006
Caymus,Cab Sauv Napa,2006
Nalle,Zinfandel,2005
Gunderloch,JB Kabinett,2006
Sebastiani,Chard,2005
Veuve Clicquot,Brut,NV
Bridgeview,Riesling Bl Moon,06
Sanford,Pinot Noir,2005
Murphy Goode,Liars Dice Zin,04
Mondavi,Cab Sauv Napa,2005
Wiemer,Gewurz Dry,2006
La Cave,Pinotage,2003
Anthony Road,Ries SemiDry,2007
Grangehurst,Cab-Mer,2001
Tiza,Malbec,2005
Riella,Moscato D'Asti,2007
Santa Rita,Cab Sauv MR,2005
Burgans,Albarino,2006
Conclass,Rueda Blanco,2007
Norman,Cab/Merlot,2005
King Estate,Pinot Gris,2006
Kim Crawford,Sauv Blanc,2007
Ruffino,Ris Duc Tan,2003
Schlink Haus,Eiswein,05,375ml
Simi,Cab Sauv,2005
Rubiro,Montepulciano,2004
Geographico,Chi Col Senesi,06
Hook & Ladder,Gewurz,2006
Di Arie,Zinfandel Amador,2005
Abundance,Petite Sirah,2004
Cardwell Hill,Pinot Noir,05
Parducci,Petite Sirah,2004
Lolonis,Fume Blanc,2005
Parducci,Pinot Grigio,2006
Powers,Syrah,2004
Smokin Mendo,Big Yellow Cab,05
Haton,Champagne Brut,NV
Vinea Fam,Brunello di Mont,02
Cono Sur,Carmenere,2007
A to Z,Pinot Noir,2006
Bauer,Gmork Gr Velt,2006
Warres,Otima 10yr Tawny,NV,500
Sorella Wine & Spirits Fall Wine Sale Tastings
Friday 9/19
Bennett Lane,Cab,2004 Red 55.99 43.97
Renaud,Macon-Villages,2007 White 15.99 12.97
White 16.69 13.47
Green,Notorious PN,2006 69.99 39.97
St. Jean,Chardonnay,2006 2007 White 14.49 11.47
Red 19.99 14.77
Beringer,Cab KV,2005 Red 26.89 21.47
Four Vines,Zin Maverick,2006
Fleur,Pinot Noir Carneros,2006
Bortoli,Petit Verdot V4,2004
Diablita,White,2006
Esterlina,Riesling,2006
Jadot,Pinot Noir Bourgogne,2005
El Coto,Crianza,2003
Jolivet,Sancerre,2005
Jacobs Creek,Cab Rsv,2002
Brancott,Sauv Blanc Rsv,2006
Masi,Campofiorin,2004
Frei Bros,Cab Sauv,2005
Martin Codax Albarino
Maso Canali,Pinot Grigio,2006
Whitehaven,Sauvignon Blanc,07
Dancing Bull,Zinfandel,2005
Gascon,Malbec,2006
Kamiakin,Yakima Red,2006
Broadley,Pinot Noir Wilamette,2007
Chiarli,Lambrusco Centinario,NV
Boedecker,Pinot Gris OV,2007
Verdillac,Bordeaux Blanc,2006
Montes,Syrah Alpha,2005
Riscal,Rioja Res,2003
Toso,Malbec,2007
Solemne,Torrontes,2007
Santiago,Gran Reserva,2002
Roca,Syrah,2004
Nerviani,Malbec,2004
Benegas Clara,Chardonnay,2006
Rizzardi,Chiaretto Rose,2007
Gemtree,.Bloodstone. Shiraz,06
Dutschke,Old Codger Tawny Port,NV
Muller,Spatlese,2005
Ermete,Bocciolo,2006
Albrecht,Gewurztraminer,2006
Chappellet,Cab Sauv Sig,2005
Helix,Pomatia,2003
Bollinger,Champagne Cuvee,NV
OKO,Pinot Grigio,2007
Kenwood,Sauvignon Blanc,2006
Hendry,Zinfandel Bock 7,2005
Sorella Wine & Spirits Fall Wine Sale Tastings
Saturday 9/20
Saint Laurent,CDR Blanc,2005 2006 White 13.49 9.97
Core,Elevation Sensation,2005 Red 41.99 33.97
Columbia Crest,Riesling,2006 White 8.49 5.97
KO,In Cot We Trust,2005 Red 25.49 19.97
Pacific Rim,Dry Riesling, 2006 White 11.99 9.47
Hugo's Hill,Shiraz,2004 2004 Red 17.99 14.47
Darling Hills,Ovation,NV,3L White 21.49 17.97
Haut Breton Lar,Margaux,2005
Alto las Tacas,Bonarda,2005
Aranleon,Reserva,2004
Los Frailes,Barrica,2005
Saint Laurent,CDR Aubrespin,04
Ernest,Sancerre Monts Brul,06
Zinck,Riesling,2006
S. Francisco,Obidos Red,2004
l'Espigouette,CDR VV,2005
Odoardi,Savuto,2003
Panarroz,Jumilla Red,2006
Langasco,Favorita,2006
Casale del Duccio,Chianti,2005
Malvira',Birbet,2006
Vitanza,Quadrimendo,2003
Vigin,Barbera My Ruby,2005
Lafond,Reuilly Blanc,2005
Beausejour,Mon St.Emilion,2004
Capcanes,Costers del Gravet,04
Aalto,Ribera del Duero,2003
Mulderbosch,Chenin Blanc,05
Sarao,Cava Rose,NV
Arancio,Pinot Grigio,2007
Arancio,Nero D'Avola,2005
Col Crest H3,Cab Sauv,
Col Crest H3,Merlot,
Col Crest H3,Chardonnnay,
Bunan,Bandol Rouviere,2003
Boira,Pinot Grigio,2006
Castle Rock,Pinot Noir Will,07
Boglietti,Barbera d'Alba,2006
Rosenblum,Desiree Zin,NV,375ml
Folie a Deux,Menage White,
Ligneres,Aric,2002
Vega del Rio,Rioja,2005
Buehler,Cab Sauv Napa,2005
Roederer Estate,Brut,NV
Tariquet,White,2006
Puiatti,Tocai Friulano,2006
Steltzner,Cab Sauv,2004
Altos las Hormigas,Malbec,2007
Parenchere,Bordeaux Raph,2005
Felsina,Rancia,2004
Hugo's Hill,Morio Muscat,2006
Westerland,RedCelebration,2006
Paarl Hills,Pinotage,2006
Kiona,Cab-Merlot,2003
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Subject: Sorella Tasting Friday 9/19; 5:30-7:30
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Stop by; would love to see all of you at the old "Liquor Depot" location
on Washington Avenue near the Guthrie Theatre.
www.sorellawines.com Click on the sale prices to download a pdf of
their fall sale catalog.
There will be several distributors pouring that evening. The website
indicates that over 40 wines will be tasted. My table will include:
Oko Pinot Grigo $11.99 sale $9.77
Helix Pomatia $23.49 sale $18.47
Hendry Block 7 Zin $31.49 sale $24.97
Chappellet Signature Cab $47.99 sale $37.97
Bollinger Champagne Not sure on pricing
Hope to see you there!
Bubbles
Sorella Wine & Spirits
A peek at the wine shelves
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Sorella Wine News
September 10th, 2008
Vol 1, Issue 10
* In This Issue *
Huge Wine Tastings <#LETTER.BLOCK17>
Fortified for Fall <#LETTER.BLOCK9>
Steve's Recipe of the Month <#LETTER.BLOCK10>
Special Sale Preview Deals <#LETTER.BLOCK11>
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*Greetings!*
If you haven't been to our website in a while, now might be the time to
check it out; our Fall Wine Sale catalog is now available to download
there. Speaking of the sale (officially Sept. 18th - Oct. 4th), we would
like to offer you, our newsletter subscribers the chance to get in on
the savings early. Read on to find a list of some of the feature deals
from the sale that you can pick up right now, before the crowds arrive.
There's much more in this issue, so we should let you get to it.
*Store Hours *
Weekday hours are 9:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m.
We are now open 9:00 a.m. - 10:00 p.m. on Fridays and Saturdays.
*Free Wine Tastings *
Try Before You Buy - As always, we would like to give you the
opportunity to taste a wide variety of our featured sale wines before
plopping down your hard-earned dollars. Each of these three nights will
feature over 40 wines in a variety of styles and price ranges. The
tastings are held in our store and feature FREE VALET PARKING. Riedel
glasses will be provided for the tastings. Here are the times:
Thursday Sept. 18th, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
Friday Sept. 19th, 5:30-7:30 p.m.
Saturday Sept. 20th, 4-6p.m.
More information about the wines to be tasted will be posted on our
website (www.sorellawines.com) approximately 48 hours prior to each tasting.
*Just Added:* Friday Sept. 26th, 5:00-7:00 p.m. (approx 25 wines)
*Fortified for Fall, Fortified for All *
You need to drink more fortifieds.
The concentration of flavors, complexity, and globality (O.K. that's not
a word but, it should be) of fortifieds and other desserts/aperitifs
make them one of my favorite categories in all of wine. In the October
2008 issue of Wine Enthusiast Roger Voss is daring everyone to have a
glass some time over the next six weeks. I'm willing to take it to "a
whole 'nother level". I double-dog dare you.
To prove it's 'globality' and spark some ideas here's a list of things
to maybe keep in mind.
--MJ SWS
*Australia *- Muscat, Tokay, Port, Touriga Nacional
*France *- Sauternes, Banyuls, Verema de San Marti VDP, Rivesaltes,
Quarts de Charmes, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Jurancon, Dubonnet, Lillet
*Spain* - Malaga, Dulce Monastrell Jumilla, Moscatell from Priorat,
Cream Sherry, Oloroso, Fino Sherry, Amontillado Sherry, Vintage Pedro
Ximenez
*Portugal* - Porto, Madeira, Vinho Licoroso
*Italy* - Vin Santo, Moscato di Asti, Brachetto, Marsala, Red Malvasia,
Vendemmia Tardiva of Grillo (Sicilia), Dolce Malvasia
*South Africa* - Vintage Port, Moscato
*Austria* - Beerenauslese, Auslese, Eiswein
*Germany* - Beerenauslese, Auslese, Trockenbeerenauslese, Eiswein
*Canada* - Icewine
*Japan* - Plum Wine
*California* - Late Harvest Zin, Late Harvest Syrah, Black Muscat,
Moscato, California Port + Sherry
*Oregon* - Icewine
*Steve's Recipe*
Well, the acorns are pounding down upon my rooftop, so it's time for an
indoor dish that I love. We've done this at our house (for six) within
the last three weeks and at least four times total (I guess that shows
how much we like it). It's from James Peterson's Glorious French Food,
an awesome book everyone should own. It's also old enough now that you
may be able to find it at a used bookstore. The potato side is an old
bistro addition that we often eat in the colder months.
*Flank Steaks with Shallot Sauce*
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
2 flank steaks (about 1-pound each)
3 tablespoons dry white wine (vermouth will give it a herbal edge)
2 large shallots, finely chopped
1 tablespoon veal demi-glace, softened with 1 tablespoon hot water
3-4 tablespoons chilled butter, cut into pieces
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
Set the oven at a warming temperature, about 175 degrees. I like to
take the steaks out of the fridge 30 minutes prior and season with salt
and pepper on both sides and let them warm to room temperature. Add the
oil to medium or larger pan. Heat to medium-high till the oil is almost
smoking. Gently place one steak in the pan and sear 3-4 minutes per
side. Have an oven-proof plate ready and keep the first steak warm
while you cook the second. If the pan gets a bit dry, add a bit more
oil. While the steaks keep warm, lower your burner to medium and
deglaze the pan with the white wine. Add the shallots and saute for
about 3 minutes until they soften. Stir in the demi-glace mixture till
smooth. Let that reduce slightly and start adding the butter pieces and
stir constantly until all the butter is used, then thicken for 1-2
minutes.
Slice the steaks across the grain about 1/2 inch thick and place on a
serving platter. Put the sauce in a gravy/sauce boat so it can be
easily passed at the table. Voila, you are there!
*Duck Fat Potatoes*
2 tablespoons rendered duck fat
4 medium white-skinned potatoes, cut into 1/2 inch dice (I leave the
skins on)
Kosher salt and fresh ground pepper
1/4 cup flat-leaf parsley, small chop
Heat the duck fat over medium-high heat till it shimmers, add the
potatoes, season with salt and pepper and saute until nicely browned,
about 20 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the parsley.
I would suggest that you start the potatoes first because the steak and
the sauce really do not take too long. You can always lower the temp on
the potatoes to slow them down. If you are not interested in rendering
your own duck fat, you can find it online. One of the better prices I
found was at chefshop.com. Or if you ask nicely, I might even let you
have some of mine. Some interesting greens with croutons and a balsamic
dressing would be great with this.
*_3 Wines at 3 Price Points to Accompany This Fun Dinner:_*
*2005 Sequiot Tempranillo/Cabernet Sauvignon*
I need to preface this wine with the caveat that we have about two cases
left. After that, the ridiculous price of $8.47 will be gone, as will
the wine. We may be able to get it again, but the price and the vintage
will be different. This is a 50/50 blend from the Valencia D.O. inland
from the city of Valencia in southeast Spain. A dark hued wine with
a rich strawberry and raspberry nose and a nice spiciness from the oak
treatment. Reg. $10.99/$8.47
*2004 Carm Douro DOC Red Portugal*
A typical dry red from Portugal that is a blend of three grapes which
are also used to make port wines. Nicely ripe and plummy with some
earthiness and a long finish containing a bit of licorice. Many people
overlook this part of the world when having red meat and that is a
shame. I should add that we have an expansive Portuguese section of
nearly 40 selections. $16.99
*2005 Chateau de Parenchere 'Cuvee Raphael'*
You certainly can't have a French bistro meal without the option of a
French wine. Chateau Parenchere is a great little Bordeaux property and
the Cuvee Raphael is their flagship blend. It's 60% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 40% Merlot from the excellent 2005 vintage. The wine spends 16
months in French oak. The vines average 40 years of age. This is very
drinkable now with some airing, but also can be kept up to 10 years. $21.99
*Special Sale Preview Deals*
*Here are some of the highlights of the upcoming sale that you can take
advantage of right now:*
Marques de Caceres Rioja Crianza 2004 Reg. $16.99 Sale $8.47
Robert Mondavi Napa Cabernet Sauvignon '05 $27.39 Sale $17.97
Simi Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley '05 $24.49 Sale $15.97
Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc 2006 $11.99 Sale $7.77
Los Vascos Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 $11.99 Sale $7.97
Cono Sur Merlot, Pinot Noir & Carmenere $10.99 Sale $6.57
Castle Rock Willamette Valley Pinot Noir $15.99 Sale $10.97
Foxglove Chardonnay Edna Valley '07 $14.99 Sale $10.97
Gazela Vinho Verde $6.99 Sale $4.27, special case price $48
Warre's Otima 10yr Tawny Port 500ml $32.99 Sale $16.47
Dutschke Old Codger Tawny Port (Australia) $19.99 Sale $12.47
Louis Jadot Beaujolais Villages $13.99 Sale $8.97
Plus Dozens (Hundreds?) More!
Thanks again for reading. Please share this e-mail with your friends who
enjoy wine and bring them along to one of the tastings. Hope to see you
soon.
Sincerely,
Everyone at Sorella Wine & Spirits
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday, September 12, 2008
Pinot Noir is grown all over the large Sonoma Coast appellation, which runs along the Sonoma County coastline from the San Pablo Bay to the Mendocino County line, extending inland for about 30 miles. Created in 1987, this growing region includes portions of several Sonoma County American Viticultural Areas. It generally has a cool climate and receives more rain than other Sonoma appellations.
A winegrowing region this large contains many microclimates, resulting in various styles of Pinot Noir. Winemaking decisions - including grape ripeness at harvest, whole cluster or barrel fermentation, and new or used oak barrels - also play a major role in the final product.
The 49 Sonoma Coast Pinots we tasted offered both red and black fruit, occasional spice and loam, with a range of tannins, from soft and ripe to rustic and assertive. Most were from the 2006 vintage, a year with challenging weather and a lower-yielding harvest. A cool, wet spring led to a late start of the growing season; harvest was also delayed, though most grapes reached full ripeness.
Many of our recommended wines have upwards of 14.2 percent alcohol, though some winemakers picked their grapes earlier for lower sugar levels, resulting in wines with lower alcohol and greater acidity.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Baker Lane Hurst Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($40) Slightly meaty, but fruit-forward aromas: pomegranate, raspberry, cola and citrus zest aromas. More delicate but bright, well-extracted cherry and tart rhubarb flavors backed with warm wood. Acidity lingers on the finish that cries out for food.
Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Belle Glos Taylor Lane Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($60) A nose of sweet-sour cherry, underripe strawberry with loam and sandalwood spice. The palate is richer with boysenberry and blackberry highlighted with an elegant hint of wood. Finish comes alive with bright acidity; nicely balanced for such a young wine.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Benovia Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45) Fruited nose of bright tart cherry, anise, jasmine, sweet plum and the barest hint of smoky char. Palate is bigger with darker fruit, wild cherry and a hint of mocha. Supple mouthfeel moves to a tart finish.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Clos du Bois Sonoma Reserve Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($25) Concentrated strawberry, rhubarb, damp soil and mint on the nose with some delicacy amid the oak. Subdued palate filled in by soft-edged red fruit and bramble with a grippy, fruity finish. Rustic, assertive tannins give it some length.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS DeLoach Le Roi Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($60) Interesting aromatics of deep loam, black fruit cherry and plenty of oak with an overriding savoriness and underlying char. The woody profile extends to the intense, powerful palate along with earth and fruit. Mouthwatering acidity on the finish.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Freeman Vineyard & Winery Akiko's Cuvee Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($54) Lovely, delicate nose perfumed with rhubarb, sweet cherry, sandalwood and loam is ripe, juicy and intense, with bright, high tones. Similar on the focused, elegant palate, which shows a hint of char then a sweet raspberry fruit finish and touch of soft-edged oak. Supple and well balanced.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Hartford Court Land's Edge Vineyards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45) An oaked wine with a big, ripe, juicy black cherry and bramble nose underscored with earthy mineral, hints of menthol and wood spice. The supple, fruit-forward palate shows less tannin, with a round, bright finish that recovers from an initial peek of heat.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48)Perfumed cherry, black fruit, fennel seed, spice and damp soil on the fruit-driven nose. Concentrated fruit on the big palate that has fine-grained tannins and lively acidity. A balanced wine, including the oak presence. Has a long, warm finish.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($22) Black fuit, canned cherry pie filling and strawberry compote aromas accented with hints of spice and herb. Similar flavors with echoes of cranberry and vanillin throughout; finishes with oak tannins, plum skin and very high acidity that will be better with food. Immediately accessible.
Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Mario Perelli-Minetti Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($31) Aromas have a berry jam, bubble gum, candied sweet fruit character with a bit of berry leaf. Strawberry preserve and peachy notes on the generously fruited palate; soft tannins make this fruity-style wine an early, easy drinker.
Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Merry Edwards Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($33) Meaty, pungent nose with tamarind, soy, dried mushroom, rich fruit and stewed strawberry. Moderately intense and weighty palate that emphasizes its tartness.
Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Patz & Hall Jenkins Ranch Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($55) Demerara sugar, sassafras, subtle spice, soy and dark cherry-tinged nose that has a meaty, slightly broody character. Bright, opulent fruit palate is ripe and rich but retains a savory, tangy flair. Balanced with integrated tannins.
Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Roessler La Brisa Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($30) Aromas of blackberry, wild strawberry, soft cherry, spice and damp soil show a bright liveliness. Lovely combo of Bing cherry, orange zest flavors with a bright red fruit ping on the finish. Long, supple and balanced; shows a seamless, fine-boned structure with pleasantly lingering ripe tannins.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Sonoma Coast Vineyards Petersen Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($63) Sweet, concentrated cherry, plum and lemon peel with strawberry highlights, sandalwood and spice aromas. Rich mouthfeel that has almost a walnut skin grip to it. Fruit is countered with zippy acidity. Well-balanced tension between the sweet fruit and the wood.
Rating: TWO STARS2005 Sonoma-Cutrer Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($40) Fruity nose of wild bramble berries, anise, tree bark, black cherry and cranberry with lemon rind highlights. Dark fruit flavors continue on the medium-bodied palate that is almost astringent. Not fully integrated, needs time.
Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa La Cruz Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($54) Fresh summer berries, baking spice, pine and muted flower, green herb aromas. Touches of tangerine also present on nose and palate. Well balanced with long, supple finish; even better with time.
Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Jason Alexander, vice president of wine acquisitions, Vintrust. For more recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine.
Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good
Also recommended
2005 Castle Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($26)
2005 Fort Ross Fort Ross Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($39)
2005 Francis Ford Coppola Director's Cut Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($27)
2006 Freeman Vineyard & Winery Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($44)
2006 Kokomo Winemaker's Reserve Peters Vineyard Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($45)
2007 Schug Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($24)
2006 Sebastiani Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($18)
- Lynne Char Bennett
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/12/WIAB12FLEL.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 5 of the San Francisco Chronicle
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Campania's world-class white wines
Michael Apstein, Special to The Chronicle
Friday, September 12, 2008
Winemaker Piero Mastroberardino tastes wine in the vineya... Caupona del Gladiatore vineyard in Pompeii. Campania's buzzworthy white wines include Mastroberardino...
(09-12) 04:00 PDT Sorrento, Italy -- Taurasi, Campania's best wine, has a powerful allure. Years ago, I spotted one on the shelf of a simple seafood trattoria outside of Naples, where instead of a wine list the choices were arrayed on a shelf. I asked for this sturdy red even though we had ordered grilled langoustine. The waiter brought it to the table along with another bottle. He handed over the Taurasi, then said: Da bere domani con carne - "drink it tomorrow with a steak."
Without asking, he opened the second bottle, a Greco di Tufo, a local white wine. This is what you drink with langoustine, he all but commanded.
Most people think of northeast Italy - areas like Friuli - for Italian white wines. But Campania, far to the south and well known for red wines like Aglianico, has two top-quality appellations, or DOCGs, for dry white wines, more than any other region in Italy. Excellent white wine coming from south Italy surprises most consumers since southern climes are usually too hot to produce white wines with the requisite acidity to keep them lively. But Campania's unique geology explains why its white wines are so exciting. Mountainous topography means that vineyards have been planted at higher elevations, where cooler temperatures allow grapes to ripen without losing acidity. Couple that with the region's volcanic soil and you have the potential for stunning white wines.
Although Campania produces more white wine than red wine - the production of the two largest producers, Mastroberardino and Feudi di San Gregorio, is about 75 percent white - the focus of the press and consumers until recently has been on its ageworthy reds, such as Taurasi, the region's only DOCG for red, and others made from the Aglianico grape.
It has become "the most important region in Italyfor making serious wine," says Riccardo Cotarella, one of Italy's foremost enologists and a consultant to several Campanian wineries, including Feudi di San Gregorio. Although he was speaking primarily of the red wine, he thinks that the region, formerly known for "chestnuts, potatoes and humble whites," is ready for production of upscale, world-class white wines as well.
Greco Bianco and Fiano are the grapes responsible for Campania's two DOCGs for white wine, Greco di Tufo and Fiano di Avellino, respectively. Both trace their origins to the Greeks, who brought them when they settled this part of Italy in the seventh century B.C. The other two major white grapes in the region are Coda di Volpe (literally "tail of the fox," because of the shape of the clusters) and Falanghina, an aromatic variety whose popularity is skyrocketing. (See "Buying guide," this page.)
Greco and Coda di Volpe, like Fiano, do well in the volcanic soil in the mountainous terrain of Avellino, while Falanghina thrives in the towns of Sannio and Sant' Agata de' Goti in the neighboring province of Benevento.
Other white varieties, such as Pallagrello Bianco, are starting to appear on the radar screen, not surprising since there are hundreds of varieties native to this region, where wine has been made for 9,000 years. The wine made from Pallagrello has a wild character that could get out of hand if not vinified carefully. Good natural acidity tends to balance its viscous nature. Produced by only four or five wineries, it has limited availability in the United States, but so did Falanghina until about 20 years ago.
Local industry expands
After centuries of producing mostly rustic bottlings - plus the occasional compelling Taurasi - that were mostly consumed locally, Campania's wine industry surged in the 1980s, expanding from a single major producer, Mastroberardino, to more than 100 wineries today. This growth resulted from a general decrease in poverty in the region, more widespread exposure from increased tourism to the Amalfi Coast, Pompeii and Naples, money from the European Union finally finding its way to wineries, and resurgence in interest in local grapes by the Italians themselves, according to Tom Maresca, a leading American authority on Italian wines. "The Italians discovered great resources that had always been there," he says.
Importers specializing in Italian wines, such as Palm Bay International, Winebow and Vias Imports, saw a great opportunity for growth - and greater profits - for these wines compared to the more well-known ones from northern Italy, according to Jane Kettlewell, a public-relations executive who has worked for several Italian wine importers. They were aided, she adds, by the efforts of the Italian Trade Commission, which turned its attention to southern Italian wines.
The wines got a further push as sommeliers and wine buyers around the globe began discovering them and introducing them to customers. "Some customers order Pinot Grigio," says Matteo Scaccabarozzi, sommelier and manager at London's Alloro in Mayfair, "but I direct them to Fiano or Falanghina instead."
Jeannie Rogers, wine buyer at Il Capriccio in Waltham, outside Boston, finds that "these wines are especially popular in the summertime when diners are choosing lighter fare." Rogers' theory: Customers are introduced to these wines during visits to the region and order them when they return home.
But the country's leading booster for wines from Campania may be Shelley Lindgren, wine director at A16 in San Francisco. She has 25 selections of Fiano, Greco and Falanghina on her wine list and two Pallagrello Biancos, and is always looking for more. More and more small producers who previously sold their production to the larger wineries have started to bottle and export the wines themselves, as the region receives international acclaim. "But it's still a big bridge to cross to get wines from small producers to market," Lindgren laments.
Lindgren's evangelism for southern Italian wines continues to resonate through the Bay Area. "These wines definitely sell," says Mark Middlebrook, wine buyer at Paul Marcus Wines in Oakland. "I've seen a steady increase in their sales over the seven years I've been here."
Major players
Though smaller producers have a growing U.S. presence, most consumers' first exposure to Campanian whites comes from the so-called big three, who have given them name recognition and cachet: Mastroberardino, Terredora di Paolo and Feudi di San Gregorio. Mastroberardino, founded in 1878, is credited with resurrecting the focus on Campania's native grapes - always eschewing international varieties - and until as recently as the early 1980s, was essentially the region's only significant winery known internationally. The winery went so far as to analyze DNA from grape seeds buried in Pompeii in an effort to replant, cultivate and eventually make wine from the varieties growing at the time of Mount Vesuvius' eruption two millennia ago. The research confirms the belief that Greco, Fiano and Falanghina were grown in the region at that time.
As is often the case with wine families, a dispute arose among the members and brothers Antonio and Walter went their separate ways in 1993. Older brother Antonio kept the name, Mastroberardino, the winery and a few vineyards. Walter took the bulk of the vineyards because they belonged to his wife's family, and established a new winery, Terredora di Paolo, in a neighboring village.
Since the split, Mastroberardino has purchased more vineyards, established contracts with local growers and now produces about 200,000 cases of wine a year. Terredora produces about half as much, but is far less reliant on growers, since its vineyards supply 90 percent of its grapes.
The third major producer, Feudi di San Gregorio, founded in the mid-1980s, was able to establish a thriving business as the Mastroberardino brothers were distracted by their internecine feuding. It is now the leading producer, by volume, with an annual production of 250,000 cases. Its wines are the most modern of the three since they have the greatest emphasis on new oak, especially noticeable in their reds. (See "Matters of style," this page.)
Signature whites
With the whites, the choices seem to be whether to blend Fiano and Greco and bottle under the more liberal IGT regulations or blend Falanghina with Coda di Volpe into a wine called Lacryma Christi (literally "tears of Christ"). An occasional producer ferments Fiano on the skins, but unlike in northern Italy and Sicily, Chardonnay is nowhere to be found. While many of more modern-style reds show obvious oak flavors when young, it's the rare white that conveys obvious oak influence.
These whites do not have allure of Taurasi or Supertuscans yet, but they might as more people taste them. It wouldn't be the first time that demand for Italian whites has enticed high-quality small producers to grab a piece of the action. Lindgren sums it up. "People think Pinot Grigio is Italy's white wine. But these are the noble whites of Italy."
Buying guide
The white wines from Campania, the region of Italy surrounding Naples and its beautiful bay, pair exquisitely with seafood.
Greco di Tufo
Greco, an aromatic white with earthy nuances and bracing acidity, has a firm edge that reflects the volcanic soil where it's grown. Sometimes shy when young, it gains considerable complexity after two or three years in the bottle. It's a good foil for sushi or sashimi.
2007 Mastroberardino Nova Serra Greco di Tufo ($24) Earthy rather than floral, you can almost taste the volcanic soil in which the vines are planted. A clean citric edge in the finish of this firm wine adds to the appeal. Mastroberardino's 2006 Greco - still available in stores - has more amplitude at this stage and reinforces the notion that Greco benefits from bottle aging. (Importer: Winebow)
2007 Benito Ferrara Greco di Tufo ($25) Ferrara, a very small producer with 7 acres of vineyards, produced a full-bodied Greco that is more forward - and ready to drink - than Mastroberardino's at this stage. At first blush, it seems to have been oak aged, but it's just the concentration of the stone-fruit flavors coming to the fore. Vibrant acidity keeps it together. (Importer: Estate Wines)
Fiano
As with most wines, the character of Fiano varies with where the grape is cultivated. In Avellino, known as Irpinia by the locals and Campania's most important province for wine, it offers intriguing minerality that's fuller, riper and softer than Greco. When planted nearer the coast, floral elements overshadow its minerality. But its signature characteristic - a subtle waxy texture - persists regardless of where it is grown. Its popularity is spreading; consumers are likely to see Fiano from other parts of southern Italy including Sicily. Try it with full-flavored seafood, such as grilled salmon.
2007 Terredora Di Paolo Fiano di Avellino ($30) Distinct notes of ripe melons coupled with hints of minerality complement the characteristic waxy texture. Bright acid is the counterweight in this marvelously complex wine that demonstrates why Fiano di Avellino has DOCG status. (Importer: Vias Imports)
2007 Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino ($22) Tighter with more minerality, you see the more traditional hand of Mastroberardino at work. The waxy texture is still apparent in this firmer rendition of Fiano. Not an aperitif-style wine, its racy acidity cries for a splash of olive oil on grilled fish. (Importer: Winebow)
Falanghina
Virtually unknown as a fine wine grape until the early 1990s when Feudi di San Gregorio's version appeared on the scene, now everyone seems to be making one. Falanghina is a deceptive wine. Its engaging floral character suggests sweetness, but it is not. High acidity imparts a complementary cutting edge, which keeps it lively and refreshing throughout a meal. Quite versatile, it stands up to spicy seafood preparations that use cilantro or Thai basil. It's also a fine choice as an aperitif or with antipasto.
2007 Feudi di San Gregorio Falanghina di Sannio ($17) Alluring aromas of white flowers are apparent and then hints of peaches and melons hit the palate and persist into the finish. The absence of oak flavors and uplifting acidity keeps it fresh and encourages another sip. The juxtaposition of the floral nose and cutting acid makes this an exciting wine and a good match for a wide range of foods. (Importer: Palm Bay International)
Coda di Volpe
The most difficult grape among these to transform into wine, Coda di Volpe, also known as Caprettone, has lower acidity and a tendency to oxidize when not handled correctly. Although the primary - when blended with Falanghina - or the sole grape for Campania's best known white wine, Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio, it lacks the stature of Greco and Fiano. A fine choice for cioppino or another seafood stew.
2005 Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio ($16) Made exclusively from Coda di Vopa; Mastroberardino shows that a talented producer can make fine wine from this temperamental grape. (It also makes a Lacryma Christi red from Piedirosso, another indigenous grape.) This midweight wine has a firm edge and almost tastes of lava, reflecting the volcanic soil of the region. An uplifting freshness in the finish makes it a fine choice for a hearty seafood pasta rather than a sipping aperitif. (Importer: Winebow)
- M.A.
Matters of style
Among red wines, there is the ongoing dichotomy in Campania as in other parts of Italy between traditional wines, such as Mastroberardino's - although under Piero Mastroberardino, even this traditional firm is edging toward a more approachable style - and international or modern styles, like those from Feudi di San Gregorio and to a lesser extent, Terredora di Paolo.
Traditional Taurasi, similar to other great Italian red wines, such as Barolo, requires years of aging for its tannins to mellow and it grandeur to unfold.
The modern styles, sometimes named by Taurasi's primary grape, Aglianico, usually have seen the inside of a small French oak barrel and a few even include Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot in the blend with the aim of making them more accessible when young.
Some producers opt to use the less restrictive IGT designation for their wines even though the grapes come from the DOCG Taurasi area because they are experimenting with shorter aging requirements and other techniques that fail to comply with DOCG regulations, but might make the wines more approachable.
Michael Apstein is a freelance wine writer. E-mail him at wine(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/12/WI0V12J30L.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Many of us know Mike from his work at Zips.
He's now wine director for Tournament Liquors.
He always puts on a great tasting. Perhaps someone
can give B-Bob a ride up there. I'll be in Atlanta (sigh)
Cheers,
Jim
What: Schiopetto and Petrolo Wine Lecture and Tasting With Michael
Quintass, owner of Vintus Wines
When: October 14th
Where: Tournament Player's Club (11444 Tournament Players Parkway -
Blaine, MN 55449)
Time: 7:00 PM
Cost: $20 per person - limited to 20 attendees
Sciopetto from Friuli and Petrolo from Tuscany are some hot-shot
wineries that are making top notch, if the Gambero Rosso has any
credence around here, wines that both speak to the places they are
made but also are darn good. Michael Quintass, the owner of Vintus
Wines - importer for these wines, will be on hand to talk about the
wines while we try all 6 whites from Schiopetto, the one red from
Schiopetto and the two reds from Petrolo.
Reservations are required and may be obtained by E-Mailing Mike
Dombrow, Wine Director for Tournament Liquor, at: mike(a)tournamentliquor.com
--
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Sake samurai thinks outside the bento box
W. Blake Gray, Special to The Chronicle
Friday, September 5, 2008
True Sake's Beau Timken takes his challenge to San Franci... Beau Timken, heads into San Francisco's Regalito Rosticer... The guacamole-sake pairing was a success. Smoked Duck Breast a la Lyonnaise made by chef Laurent Ka... More...
Beau Timken stands outside a Mexican restaurant in the Mission District with a stern look on his face. The owner of True Sake, America's first sake-only store, is holding a Neoprene bottle bag and looking at his watch. It's showdown time.
It's early Friday evening and the Mission is hopping with revelers. Timken, wearing a suit jacket, is all business, and before we even walk in the door, he's talking about the challenge ahead.
The mission (in the Mission): Prove that sake works with Mexican food. It's just one more stop on Timken's seemingly endless quest to introduce sake into every kind of restaurant imaginable. To do so, he asks himself and his dining companions a simple question: Does sake pair well with this dish? Over and over and over again.
"I can die when every wine list in town has a sake on it," says Timken, 42, whose regular swims in San Francisco Bay keep him in such good shape that he just might live long enough to succeed.
The wine and spirits industry has plenty of product evangelists. PR agencies, some of them government-financed, promote wines from certain countries or regions. Large liquor distributors keep cocktail experts on the payroll so that when a new spirit is launched, they can teach bartenders how to use it.
What makes Timken unusual is that he does not directly profit from his sake evangelism. Generally, more interest in sake means more interest in his Hayes Valley store. But he doesn't sell sake to restaurants, so when he orders four entrees, four appetizers and three side dishes for a party of two, it's not something he can easily call a business expense.
Over several hours on two different nights, I ask him repeatedly why he devotes himself to this. Why he carries a notebook that reads "Sake Quest" on the outside, in which he keeps detailed notes on his previous culinary challenges (sake with a Middle Eastern yogurt-cucumber salad works well; with tabbouleh, not so much). Why he takes it as a personal affront when a chef or waiter doesn't get excited about the taste of the sake he pours for them.
It's like asking a mountain climber why he climbs: he doesn't really have an answer, and doesn't seem to understand why there's a question.
Love at first sip
"I joke that I was born 400 years ago in a brewery in Kobe," he says, before launching into a retelling of his own sake epiphany with, "One of the greatest things that happened to me was tasting premium sake for the first time."
Timken was living in South Africa in the early 1990s as apartheid was ending. He arrived there as a backpacker, having quit his job in finance in his native Ohio to tag along with his brother, Mark, on an overland trip from Cairo to Capetown.
Once there, Timken realized the major U.S. corporations that had pulled out of the country to protest apartheid would soon want to return. So he and a partner set up a "Made in USA" trade show to reintroduce them to South African partners. He made a lot of money, but the South African rand was not openly circulated, so he could take very little out of the country. Timken, who holds a bachelor's degree in government and history from Pomona College in Claremont (Los Angeles County), decided to use his time and rand to get an MBA at University of Capetown.
"For relaxation, I would go to one of the two sushi restaurants in Capetown," says Timken, who would order hot sake because that's all that was offered.
"One day, these fishermen were drinking something out of bottle with Japanese writing on it," Timken says. "I held up my glass and wanted to try it. They said, 'Taste yours first.' I did. Then I tasted a sip of theirs. The difference was so startling, it was transformational. I was blown away."
Since that time, Timken has been obsessed with premium sake, and has become one of the world's leading non-Japanese experts on it.
Timken was named a "sake samurai" - one of just nine in the world, and three outside Japan - by the Japan Sake Brewer's Association. He has judged sake competitions in Japan, Los Angeles, Hawaii and London, as well as San Francisco. Unlike most sake experts, he doesn't speak Japanese; it's likely that he knows more about sake than any other non-Japanese speaker in the world.
Yet all that expertise sometimes seems to bring him as much resentment as joy, particularly on his often quixotic quest. When it comes to sake, Timken admits he has a chip on his shoulder, but he can't help himself.
Mistress vs. wife
"I know a lot of chefs from them coming into the store," he says. "Wine is their wife. Sake is their mistress. I want to take sake out of mistress-hood and give it the same love as wine."
Quest on: Timken goes to Chez Spencer, a French restaurant in the Mission. Chef-owner Laurent Katgely acknowledges Timken when we enter. But Timken doesn't talk to him right away.
"I don't want him to change the menu to make it more 'sake-friendly,' " Timken says, a note of derision on the last words. "I want to walk in here with the brews and match up flavor against flavor."
There's a definite competitiveness to Timken's quest. In the French restaurant, Timken explains a few flavors that are challenging for pairing with sake: tomatoes, because of their acidity (sake has much lower acidity than wine); very spicy food; heavy frying oils (unlike the lighter oil used in Japanese tempura). This immediately makes his plan to try a Mexican restaurant next seem like a fool's errand.
"Are you saying we should run from the Mexican challenge?" Timken says. "Do we take our guns to the fight, walk in, see the menu and walk out? No way. I'm going in there."
But Timken tries to stay objective about pairings. He has a four-step scale: Works World Class (WWC), Works Well (WW), Works (W) and Does Not Work (DNW). Over the course of two meals, he concedes that several dishes are DNW with both sakes he has brought, and only awards one WWC (see "Sake showdown," at right).
Timken and I are disagreeing somewhat animatedly about the success of one pairing when Katgely walks over and asks how things are working with the sakes. Timken goes back through his notes and reads off the Ws and DNWs. Then he asks Katgely why he doesn't have a sake on his list.
"If I go somewhere, I love to drink sake," Katgely says. "I don't consider myself a knowledgeable person about sake. If I sell something I need to know something about it. I like sake, though. I like it for leisure-type drinking."
Katgely tastes the sakes, nods with approval, then returns to the kitchen, leaving Timken steaming.
"What would it take to get him to think of sake in his restaurant?" Timken says. "He just admitted he likes sake. What would it take? Are his elements too big here that it doesn't work in their realm? He's thinking big flavor and he doesn't have the experience of tasting big flavors in sake. It's all about comfort level. Did you hear what he said? 'I don't know anything about sake. I'm not an expert.' "
Timken finally slows down on his rant when he notices that behind us, a couple is trying to decide on a bottle of wine: He wants red, she wants white. They get the red. Timken says in a voice just loud enough for them to hear that if the restaurant only had sake on the list, she wouldn't be forced to drink a bottle of wine she doesn't want.
Focus on what works
Timken is not looking for pairings that send cherubs flying up the walls shooting arrows of pure gustatory delight. Getting sake on tasting menus isn't his objective, because that's already been done all over the Bay Area, although he calls raw fish starter courses a sake "ghetto." Instead, he wants sake to stay on the table throughout the meal, as a bottle of wine would.
Timken says, not for the first or last time, "When you bring a bottle of wine to a meal, you're not looking for that perfect pairing. You're throwing wine at a variety of flavors and hoping it works with them all. It doesn't have to Work World Class. That score 'Works' is very important. It's the key."
When we meet at the Mexican restaurant - Regalito Rosticeria, which Timken chooses because it's a sit-down place where one might conceivably bring a bottle of wine - the chip on his shoulder is intact.
The conversation is interesting and very pleasant - as long as I'm liking the sake. But he's prickly when I ask him which cuisines other than Japanese go best with sake, particularly Chinese and Vietnamese food.
"You're stuck in that Asian food mindset," Timken says. "I am so confident in sake. Find me a cuisine that doesn't work with sake. Every culture has things with roots and things with tails and things that get pulled out of the ocean. The brews go well with those."
After some coaxing, he grants that crab is a particularly good sake partner; its delicacy works well with sake's subtle flavor. He later offers five favorite pairings from earlier stops on his quest (see "Five great matchups," Page F4).
The Mexican food isn't quite as successful paired with sake as the French food, but that's generally the same for wine. Nonetheless, more things worked than not.
It's not enough; Timken has regrets. "In retrospect, I would have brought a junmai with a little more sweetness and richness. A yamahai or kimoto sake," he says. But one of his rules is that he never looks at the menu ahead of time. A quest has to have rules.
But was it a successful leg of the quest? He doesn't meet the owner of Regalito. Weeks later, Katgely hasn't yet added sake to the wine list, even though Timken left him the bottles.
"That's not my job," Timken says. "I'm not a sake distributor. Hopefully a sake distributor will read this and say, maybe we should place it there. I plant the seed. I'm like Johnny Appleseed."
After leaving Regalito, we go to nearby Tokyo Go-Go to drink a little more sake and haggle over the results. Much later, I discover that while I was away from the table, he wrote in my notebook: "We as Western drinkers have a chance to blow new life into an ancient beverage ... we will prevail!"
The samurai's quest endures.
For pairing tips, five great matchups and a sake showdown see pages F4 and F5
Five great matchups
The following five dishes scored the highest rating in Beau Timken's sake-quest notebook:
1. Pasticcio of pig's trotter, kidney, chestnuts and nettle
Restaurant: Incanto Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar, San Francisco
Sake: Mukune Junmai Ginjo from Osaka prefecture
-- "The flavors were immense, deep and rich beyond belief. Mukune completely stood up to the grandness of this dish."
2. Sea bass ceviche with lime, orange-poached camote, avocado and big corn
Restaurant: Essencia restaurant, San Francisco
Sake: Umenishiki Junmai Ginjo from Ehime prefecture
-- "With the soft lime tones, this pairing is superb. The Ginjo cuts the acidity of the fruit. The freshness of the fish comes out in a gentle and lively way. Excellent acidity play."
3. Coracao de frango (chicken hearts on a skewer)
Restaurant: Espetus restaurant, San Francisco
Sake: Gokyo Junmai from Yamaguchi prefecture
-- "This pairing has a mystical richness almost with maple syrup qualities. The tight and focused flavor of the chicken heart is kept compact with the deep savoriness of the Gokyo. Savory success and umami galore."
4. Grilled rockfish sandwich
Restaurant: Ketch Joanne Restaurant and Harbor Bar, Princeton-by-the-Sea
Sake: Chikurin Junmai Ginjo from Okayama prefecture
-- "The zestiness of the tomatoes and onions on the sandwich really popped with the fruitiness of the Chikurin."
5. Crawfish etouffee
Restaurant: Coop's Place, New Orleans
Sake: Hakkaisan Honjozo from Niigata prefecture
-- "The Honjozo's smoothness mellowed the madness and produced a smooth and confident collection of flavors. Round and delicious."
- W.B.G.
Pairing tips
-- Timken points out that traditional sake pairings from Japanese pubs known as izakayas are mostly salty, savory dishes, such as pickled vegetables, grilled chicken skewers with soy sauce or salt, tempura and "rigid cuts" of seafood, like squid legs. It's more likely for a good sake to have some sweetness than a good wine (Riesling excepted), and a little sweetness is a good contrast for salty food. Miso, which also contains fermented rice, is a brilliant sake companion.
-- As with wine, acidity plays a big role. Most sakes have an acidity rating on the bottle that varies from about 0.7 to 2.0; higher numbers are generally more acidic. Timken recommends softer, lower-acidity sakes with clean, soft foods like sushi or sashimi, while the more acidic brews can stand up to meat and game.
-- Difficult matches for sake include tomato dishes, because of the acidity, and very spicy food, because of sake's delicacy as well as its alcohol level, slightly higher than most wines, which can clash with the heat in the food.
-- Also as with wine, body is important. Try lighter daiginjos with starters and for sipping, ginjos with appetizers and junmais with more robust main courses
-- Mushroom dishes are a natural match for junmai and/or yamahai sakes because both food and drink have earthiness and complexity.
- W.B.G.
Sake showdown
On his pairing quests, Beau Timken likes to bring a rich junmai and a more delicate daiginjo or ginjo. The sakes were rated according to Timken's scale:
Works World Class (WWC)
Works Well (WW)
Works (W)
MEXICAN
To pair with the Mexican cuisine at Regalito Rosticeria in San Francisco, Timken brought Chikurin Fukamari Junmai, Okayama prefecture ($28), and Umenishiki Sakehitosuji Junmai Ginjo, Ehime prefecture ($29).
Enchiladas verdes
(with green chile and chicken)
-- Chikurin Fukamari (WW)
-- Umenishiki (W)
Comments: A surprising success with the Chikurin. There are roasted notes in both sake and dish that play well together.
Guacamole with crisp corn tortillas
-- Chikurin Fukamari (WW)
-- Umenishiki (W)
Comments: Timken appreciated how the "creaminess of the junmai goes hand in hand" with the guacamole, versus the Umenishiki, which cleanses the palate from the rich avocados.
Cochinita pibil
(slow-roasted, banana leaf-wrapped citrus and achiote-marinated pork garnished with onions and cilantro. Served with black beans and tortillas)
-- Chikurin Fukamari (WW)
-- Umenishiki (W)
Comments: The Umenishiki tastes fruity with this dish, with red-wine-like fruit notes. Black beans together with the tortilla brings out a floral note and a sweetness on the ginjo's finish, though Timken preferred how the junmai balanced out the salty, savory flavors.
FRENCH
To pair with the French cuisine at Chez Spencer in San Francisco, Timken brought a Yuki no Bosha Daiginjo, Akita prefecture ($54) and Wakatake Junmai, Shizuoka prefecture ($25)
Smoked duck breast a la Lyonnaise with poached eggs and lardons
-- Yuki no Bosha Daiginjo (W)
-- Wakatake Junmai (WW)
Comments: I felt the dish worked better with the daiginjo by lengthening the finish of the sake and bringing out a floral note. The junmai tasted harsh. But Timken loved how the "savoriness of the sake dances with the savory tones of the duck. The egg and the junmai also do so well together to create a creamy soft pairing."
Curried cauliflower veloute
-- Yuki no Bosha Daiginjo (WW)
-- Wakatake Junmai (W)
Comments: Timken liked how the creaminess of the soup matched the fruit of the daiginjo. "A very unusual pairing in principle, but the result was a great flavor."
Foie gras torchon with vanilla-scented blackberry, pain de campagne
-- Yuki no Bosha Daiginjo (WW)
-- Wakatake Junmai (W)
Comments: The foie gras seemed to overwhelm the delicate daiginjo, though the blackberry helped the pairing. Timken was more bullish, finding a "superb" mix of flavors: "The fruit gets balanced and the sweetness comes forth on the creamy, salty richness of the foie gras."
Forest mushroom risotto with shaved Parmesan
-- Yuki no Bosha Daiginjo (W)
-- Wakatake Junmai (WWC)
Comments: Mushrooms, junmai - what's not to like? The rich mushrooms come exploding out of the flavor of the brew, says Timken. "If the junmai were lightly warmed, it would be out of this world."
- W. Blake Gray
W. Blake Gray, a former Chronicle staff writer, lives in San Francisco. E-mail comments to wine(a)sfchronicle.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/09/05/WIJT12K58R.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
