win July 2008

win@thebarn.com

3 participants
12 discussions

by Wordsmith

This week's theme: Words with hidden connections to animals. sommelier (sum-uhl-YAY) noun A wine steward in a restaurant. [From French sommelier, from somm(er)ier (one charged with transporting supplies), from somier (beast of burden), from somme (burden). From driving a pack animal to drafting wine lists, a sommelier has come a long way. A sommelier is to wine as a cicerone is to beer, though the latter has been introduced recently and is not widespread.] Today's word in Visual Thesaurus: http://visualthesaurus.com/?w1=sommelier -Anu Garg (words at wordsmith.org) "First class passengers, who will pay about $20,000 a ticket to Europe, will have their own onboard sommelier to guide them through an array of wines to accompany their five-star meals." 'Superbird' Flights Offer Five-star Luxury; Gold Coast News (Queensland, Australia); Jun 17, 2008 . Sponsors' messages: "Telemachus or the Memoirs of an Immortal God" by Robert J. Thieblot. A good read for the intelligent. Check it out at http://amazon.com/o/asin/0965946509 Italian and Spanish. Subscribe at: http://web.champs-elysees.com/wsmith7 Subscribe to any of the French, German, Italian or Spanish Champs-Elysees Audio Magazines and get an extra issue free: http://web.champs-elysees.com/wsmith7 ............................................................................ God made everything out of nothing, but the nothingness shows through. -Paul Valery, poet and philosopher (1871-1945) Our privacy policy: AWAD mailing list addresses are never sold, rented, leased, traded, swapped, exchanged, or bartered. We hate junk mail. Pronunciation: http://wordsmith.org/words/sommelier.mp3 Permalink: http://wordsmith.org/words/sommelier.html Unsubscribe: http://wordsmith.org/awad/subscriber-form.cgi?request=unsub&username=jellin…

17 years, 4 months

[wine] Mediteranian at JP's

by Jim L. Ellingson

Bob will make the reservation. I've got a cold/flu thing going, so I'm not too likely at this point. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 13:27:47 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] JPs User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.9i X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.57 on 128.101.142.227 X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.63 on 128.101.142.226 X-archive-position: 667 X-ecartis-version: Ecartis v1.0.0 Errors-to: wine-bounce(a)thebarn.com X-original-sender: jellings(a)me.umn.edu Precedence: bulk X-list: wine X-Greylist: IP, sender and recipient auto-whitelisted, not delayed by milter-greylist-3.0 (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu [128.101.142.227]); Wed, 16 Apr 2008 13:28:53 -0500 (CDT) X-Spam-Score: 0 () SPF_PASS,UNPARSEABLE_RELAY Greetings, Article from the post regarding "other" varietals from well known producers. e.g. Cline Syrah, KJ Syrah, Morgon Sauv Blanc, Iron Horse Chards. Bob Dave T Ruth Lori Russel/Susan Cheers, Jim Greetings, Group is going to JP's on Thursday. Not sure if this is where things settled. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 10:52:46 -0600 Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2007 14:08:10 -0600 Date: Thu, 16 Aug 2007 13:55:23 -0500 Greetings, Ringers, sparklings, dessert wines, etc. always welcome. Thursday at 6:30 at JPs Bistro. Call Bob (612-672-0607), e-mail the list (wine(a)thebarn.com) or Please trim the articles form your replys to me or the list. Bob Dave T Russel Ruth Lori JP's American Bistro 2937 S. Lyndale 55408 (612) 824-9300 Lot of consctuction on Lyndale, so side streets may be a better option. Parking: Meters were free after 6 or 6:30. Side streets may be an option. Pay lot behind the restaurant. Cheers, Jim -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 4 months

[wine] Mediteranian at Muffies on 7/31

by Jim L. Ellingson

Ribs and Zin was fantastic. Great seeing you all. Next week, we're going to Muffies. We can have the back room if we garantee $300. Trivial for a group of 12. Bit of a stretch for a group of 6. Including an article on N. Cent. Coast Pinot. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Mon, 7 Jul 2008 12:10:58 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Mediteranian at Muffies on 31 July Been a long time since we went to Muffeletta, 2+years. They are not available this week, but can accomodate us next week. From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:12:28 -0600 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Greetings, Happy New Year, Bah-Mitzvah! Had some truly fantastic food at Alma. The three course, $39, prix fixe was the order of the day for most of us. Alma tasting option is unusually flexible. Diner's are able to pick "one form each column". That is any starter, any primi/pasta and any entree. Local pheasant and the risoto were very good. This week, we've been invited to Muffuletta. Muffuletta Cafe 2260 Como St. Paul, 55108 St. Anthony Park 651-644-9116 Style du jour is "Mediteranian". Yes Joyce Warren/Ruth Betsy Bob Russ Lori Jim Guess: Nicolai Karin Directions: Take Hwy 280 to Como, go east up the hill and then to the second light (Carter). Alt: Take Snelling to Como, West to Carter. Cheers, Jim The Chronicle Wine Selections: North Central Coast Pinot Noir Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, July 25, 2008 Pinot Noir is happiest when grown in cool climes. The northern portion of California's huge Central Coast appellation has regions with cooling ocean winds, which can drop hot daytime temperatures 30 degrees in some locations. Stretching south from San Francisco to the San Luis Obispo County border, the North Central Coast is home to well-known appellations like the Santa Cruz Mountains and Santa Lucia Highlands, which produce Pinot Noir that has cherry-berry and dark fruit with good acidity that's a result of the cooler evening temperatures. Most of the 58 wines tasted are from the 2006 vintage, which had a cool, wet beginning and a midseason heat spike. Slightly cooler temperatures toward the season's end resulted in a delayed harvest with great quality fruit and slightly lower sugar levels. Last year's tasting of North Central Coast Pinot Noir was primarily of the 2005 vintage, which in general had a very high quality and quantity of grapes. Though there were approximately the same number of wines as this year, we awarded twice as many 3-stars in 2007's tasting. This year we recommend more wines from a very solid group of North Central Coast Pinot Noir; most of the recommendations received 2 to 2 1/2 stars. Many of these wines have limited production, with a few available for purchase only through the winery. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Bargetto Reserve Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($40) Menthol and high-toned notes on the nose, underscored with cranberry, chocolate-covered sour cherry and coconut. Some breadth and stuffing on the palate; blend of red and black fruit, with toasty notes and tannic structure on the finish. Contains 85 percent Pinot Noir and 15 percent other unspecified grape varieties. Winery only; limited. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Bargetto Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($25) Vibrant cherry-berry, sarsaparilla and Asian spice, which lifts the aromas and flavors. Nice acidity, but finishes a touch short. Includes 5 percent Petite Sirah, which is an unusual grape to blend with a Pinot. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Black Ridge Vineyards Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($39) Dry spice, eucalyptus and mint amid black plum, cherry and tightly knit raspberry aromas and flavors. Nose is somewhat subtle. Good acidity with soft tannins on the finish, though there is a slightly acrid bite. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Calera Mt. Harlan Cuvee Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir ($30) Delicate nose of juicy rhubarb and loam with touch of musk and thyme. Darker fruit dominates the elegant palate but tart cranberry comes through. Broad, chalky grip on the finish, which has rigid tannins. Needs food and some time. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Calera Ryan Vineyard Mt. Harlan Pinot Noir ($40) Proprietor-winemaker Josh Jensen specializes in wine from Mount Harlan, including four single-vineyard releases. Mount Harlan - located in San Benito County's Gabilan Mountains - has a higher-than-usual elevation and limestone soil. This wine has dark earth notes, lavender and ruby red fruit aromas with sweet plum, dusty dried herb and hint of spice and roasted pasilla. Palate shows more fruit density but focuses on chalky mineral, with broad tannins through the finish. Will age. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Estancia Reserve Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($28) Floral, slightly earthy, mushroomy nose supported with plenty of oak. A grapier profile overall, with strawberry on the light, almost thin palate, which has almost aggressive acidity. One panelist really liked this wine. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Hahn Estates Monterey Pinot Noir ($20) Rich berry, rhubarb and sweet red fruit with spice and a touch of coriander on the nose and palate. Aged 10 months in French oak, 65 percent of which was new. A classic Pinot Noir that should be readily available. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Hilltown Vineyards Monterey County Pinot Noir ($7) A lighter-bodied quaff that has just-enough red and black fruit plus some conifer and high-toned floral notes on the nose; tart and a touch pinched with a bit of fruit tannins on the finish. Fermented in stainless steel with an additional 6 months on the lees. An everyday price for a nice, everyday wine. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Hunterdon Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($15) Rich strawberry jam, plenty of red fruit, toasty spice, coconut and damp tree bark aromas. A lighter, fresher profile, with rich cherry a surprisingly broad structure for this wine's lightness. From Mayro-Murdick Wines proprietors Michael and Tina Cox. Good value. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Kendall-Jackson Vineyard Estates Highland Estates Seco Highlands Arroyo Seco Pinot Noir ($35) There is 2 percent Chardonnay in this wine, which is aged 10 months in French oak barrels, 50 percent of which was new. A nose of darker oak and toast notes underscore the black plum and wild strawberry. Soy and savory herb can also be found; similar flavors, plus vanilla and tart blackberry on the long finish, which shows a bit of alcoholic heat. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Miner Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($60) Winemaker Gary Brookman has crafted a rich, balanced wine with concentrated fruit - red apple, cherry and bright strawberry - on the palate. A pretty, slightly more subtle nose of dark fruit, toasty, dry earth and floral tones. Tart red fruit helps brighten the tannins on the finish. The full package. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Miner Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($60) Sweet oak surrounds strawberry tart and slight pepper with coconut highlights. A note of tart, acidic brightness reins in the oak influence. A style that has been created with obvious effort. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Morgan Twelve Clones Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($31) Morgan's Double L Vineyard - which is 40 percent of this blend - is organically farmed. The wine's Twelve Clones moniker refers to this vineyard's 12 different clonal selections of Pinot Noir. Black cherry, spiced cranberry relish, young tea leaf and mineral aromas. Engaging palate has plenty of fruit, toast and fine-grained tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Pey-Lucia Vineyards Frisquet Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($39) Jonathan and Susan Pey named this wine Frisquet, which is French for "very cool," referring to the vineyard's cool climate location. The 34-year-old vineyard borders highly regarded Rosella's Vineyard and can have a 30 degree variation in daily temperatures. Bright, lively and engaging on the nose with a generous palate; blackberry, cherry and spice plus warm oak closes the sale. Elegance and persistence on the tart-edged finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Roar Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($50) Another rustic, barnyardy wine, but with underlying fruit. Nose of lemongrass, root beer and high-toned currant with a slightly smoky back note. Generous, sweetly tart Bing cherry plus a chalky grip on the lively finish. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Roar Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($38) This workhorse bottling from winery and vineyard owners Gary and Rosella Franscioni has a polarizing earthy rusticity - but some will like this style. Yeasty with less ripe fruit. Cool strawberry and a bit of berry leaf; more rich vanilla plus finely grained tannins. Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Roessler Brosseau Vineyard Chalone Pinot Noir ($42) This is winemaker Scott Shapely's first vintage from Jan and Jon Brosseau's vineyard, planted in 1982. A combination of limpid red berry, dark fruit and forest floor with tangerine highlights plus a hint of mint. Camphor aromas with truffled popcorn. Great minerality with an attractive overlay of oak on the finish. Rating: THREE STARS Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Branciforte Creek Vineyard Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot Noir ($32) This vineyard, planted in 1988, is at a site that was originally planted in 1863. Winemaker Jeff Emery has made a pretty wine with great fruit balance. Cranberry, strawberry and dusty blackberry combine with forest and delicate mineral aromas. Dense, tart blackberry and bright red fruit flavors with minerally texture and grip on the finish. One taster thought it a touch brash. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Siduri Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($49) This wine is still a baby, but is showing earthy barnyard, violet and bright, high-toned red fruit - rhubarb and strawberry - plus some mineral notes on the nose. A touch narrow, with a tannic grip on the rather young, aggressive palate. Needs time. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Siduri Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($48) An earthier style, which one taster thought a bit too "horsey" on the nose, but it is balanced with deep, concentrated fruit, bay leaf and spice. There is certainly power and stuffing, with a lingering finish. Give it a few more months. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa Rosella's Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($59) Subtle nose of violet, strawberry and leather with a note of spicy pepper. There's depth and breadth on the more assertive palate that is enrobed in rich berry; lovely white mineral grip on the finish. A transitional, complex Pinot Noir that is not austere and funky - great for both geeks and connoisseurs. Winery only. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands Pinot Noir ($59) Completely ripe with aromas of olallieberry, bright red-toned raspberry and sweet candied notes. Loamy highlights add interest, while the softer, silky palate offers similar flavors with elegant fruit. Tart and tamarind-like on the finish. Slightly evolved and enjoyable now. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Evan Goldstein, president and chief education officer, Full Circle Wine Solutions. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine . ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 4 months

[wine] [alboyce@comcast.net: COMMERCIAL MEAD TASTING @ THE FOUR FIRKINS Sat 8/2 10am]

by Jim L. Ellingson

The Four Firkins is a shop dedicated to beer, fine wine. ----- Forwarded message from "alboyce(a)comcast.net" <alboyce(a)comcast.net> ----- From: "alboyce(a)comcast.net" <alboyce(a)comcast.net> To: mba(a)thebarn.com, mnbrewers(a)yahoogroups.com, sphbc(a)sphbc.org Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:29:16 -0400 Subject: COMMERCIAL MEAD TASTING @ THE FOUR FIRKINS Sat 8/2 10am COMMERCIAL MEAD TASTING at THE FOUR FIRKINS Saturday, August 2nd, 10am-Noon =========================================== The Four Firkins 8009 Minnetonka Blvd, St. Louis Park, MN 55426 952-938-2847 Jason Alvey, proprietor of The Four Firkins, Minneapolis' newest gourmet beer, cider, wine and now MEAD store, will host a commercial mead tasting in celebration of the Twin Cities Mead Weekend on Saturday, August 2, 2008 from 10am to noon. Jon Hamilton, meadmaker at White Winter Winery in Iron River, WI will be present to talk about all of his meads. There will also be a "Commercial Calibration" of four selected meads by Ken Schramm, meadmaker and author of "The Compleat Meadmaker", along with three of the last four AHA National Meadmakers of the Year: Curt Stock (2005), Steve Fletty (2007) and Steve Piatz (2008). Other surprise commercial meads will be available for tasting also. BRING SOME MONEY to make your mead purchases! (Not to mention some FABULOUS world beers that you can't get anywhere else in town!) NON-MEAD LUNCH!!! Saturday, August 2nd, Noon-1:30pm ================== THE LONE SPUR GRILL 11032 Cedar Lake Road, Minnetonka, MN 55305 952-540-0181 Following the commercial tasting, join Twin Cities meadmakers for lunch at the Lone Spur Grill from noon - 1:30pm. Have something NON-alcoholic and "build a base" for the MhBA MEAD DAY festivities! The Lone Spur is less than a mile from Paul and Betsy Dienhart's house. Join us, or have lunch on your own. MINNESOTA HOME BREWERS ASSOCIATION MEAD-DAY Saturday, August 2nd, 1:30-4:30pm ================================== Paul and Betsy Dienhart's home 2344 Nottingham Ct., Minnetonka, MN 55305 952-544-2831 Come join the Minnesota Home Brewers Association as we celebrate National Mead Day at the home of Paul and Betsy Dienhart. * Listen to author Ken Schramm talk about the latest in meadmaking techniques * Order your MEAD DAY T-SHIRT from http://www.cafepress.com/meadday * Taste some mead from AHA Meadmaker of the Year Steve Piatz * Bring some honey (12-20 lbs) and a 5lb bucket and learn to make mead! * Taste some of the latest mead creations of some of the cities best mead makers * Taste and learn about different varietal honeys * Bring some snacks to share with your fellow club members * Sample some chicken wings by BBQ'er extraordinaire Rick Oftel * MOST IMPORTANT! ARRANGE FOR A SOBER DRIVER HOME!!! More details to follow.... BRING A FRIEND who wants to learn about mead to both of these events! -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web.com - Microsoft® Exchange solutions from a leading provider - http://link.mail2web.com/Business/Exchange ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 4 months

[wine] Value, 8 days a week.

by Jim L. Ellingson

Pros' guide to bargain shopping With $70 in hand, 3 sommeliers scour the shelves for a week's worth of wine and then share their secrets Jon BonnéChronicle Wine Editor Friday, July 18, 2008 The sommeliers and their bargain wines: Scott Tracy (left... La Toque sommelier Scott Tracy. Chronicle photo by Craig Lee Quince sommelier Christie Dufault. Chronicle photo by Cra... Chez Panisse sommelier Jonathan Waters. Chronicle photo b... It had been nearly an hour in the aisles of Cost Plus World Market, a stone's throw from Fisherman's Wharf, and Christie Dufault was starting to get anxious. A Coppola Black Label Claret had been added to the cart, tentatively. A 2006 Muscadet looked promising, but not promising enough. Getting tense as minutes ticked on, Dufault gazed at a bottle of Relax Riesling. Nope, not quite right. "This is harder than I thought," she said. The Claret went back on the shelf. It's once again time for The Chronicle Wine section's Bargain Bonanza, and Dufault, wine director at San Francisco's Quince restaurant, was one of three volunteers who took up my challenge: Buy a week's worth of wine (at least seven bottles worth) from supermarket aisles for $70 or less (before taxes), an average of $10 per bottle, without topping $15 for any single wine. In the past, we've rooted out top values and sung their praises. But in the seven months since our last Bonanza, even the Bay Area has encountered some reasons to pinch pennies. Mortgages have been dissolving like a cork in a 19th century Bordeaux. The economy is as flat as 4-day-old Asti Spumante. So it seemed like a good time to think about the process of deal-hunting, not just the end result. To truly drink well on a dime, you need to use your wits. Bargain wine is really about strategy, in which case, who better to help discuss strategy than sommeliers? You might think these folks get paid to buy wine, but more pointedly, they get paid not to buy wine - holding out to find the stuff that people will actually drink. So I asked three prominent sommeliers to try their hand at drinking well on a budget. Dufault serves highly allocated Burgundies in a refined Pacific Heights setting. Scott Tracy, wine director for La Toque in Rutherford, hunts down the best from his Napa Valley backyard for innovative wine pairings. Jonathan Waters, wine director for Chez Panisse in Berkeley, prefers wines with the same sustainable, small-farm values embodied by restaurant founder Alice Waters (no relation). Our goal was not only to find enough wine to last a week - one bottle per night seemed like plenty - but also to strategize about how to stretch a variety of wines across a week's worth of meals. That meant wines could be used over multiple days, if we thought they'd last that long. It also required our three accomplices to think about how the week would unfold. Do you start with easy-drinking whites and save the hearty reds for a weekend barbecue? Using the actual retail prices found on the shelves, each found plenty to fill their shopping cart. I took Waters to Berkeley Bowl, where he sought out wines that echoed the types of honest, small-production bottles he prefers for Chez Panisse. After choosing seven, he had nearly $10 left over and happily added an eighth. I brought Dufault to Cost Plus, where she offered an object lesson in the wine-aisle equivalent of window shopping before settling on seven bottles, with enough cash left over for a couple bottles of beer. Tracy agreed to meet me at one of Napa's less glitzy destinations: Trader Joe's, where he managed to cart away an impressive nine bottles without breaking the bank or falling back on Two Buck Chuck. A few common themes reverberated. Everyone chose a sparkling wine - and all were among the winners in their lineups, further proving a lesson I learned in college and never forgot: Even cheap bubbles are a hit. Despite a proliferation of mass-produced Cabernets and Chardonnays - what once were called fighting varietals - few big-name corporate wines made it into mix. Only Waters consciously avoided them, but I suspect the results reflect the innate curiosity of sommeliers, whose jobs largely hinge on hunting the new. It explains why all three gravitated toward obscure grapes and winemaking regions, demonstrating that obscurity itself makes for good value. Waters gleefully uncorked a bottle of Bulgarian Traminer as we prepared a salad with arugula grown in his backyard. "The more adventurous you are, the more you'll find better value," he suggested. Other varietals were ruled out simply by the price limit, like Pinot Noir. Despite the sudden appearance of oceans of cheap Pinot to accommodate its newfound popularity, all three steered clear. That's no surprise, considering the true Pinot lover's heartbreak in tasting the cheap knockoffs these days that rely on everything from doses of hearty Petite Verdot grapes to bulk wine bought from the Italian countryside. Dufault snuck some in by selecting a $10 Pinot Noir Rosérom Sonoma County, but after eyeing a Bogle Pinot Noir for $13, Tracy demurred. "I wouldn't buy an inexpensive California Pinot," he said. "That's just asking for disappointment." Bargain bins received unanimous thumbs-up, with a few caveats (see "Bargain-buying strategies" below). Relying on familiar names, though, was a mixed bag. It seemed to work better with some Old World negociants - Dufault banked on major Burgundy house Louis Jadot for one of her splurge wines - than domestic producers, whose wines were solid but not necessarily the great deals we had hoped for. A bottle of 2005 Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel was among the most expensive we picked at $12; while totally drinkable, it wasn't three times as good as the $4 Nero d'Avola in the same basket. One big difference between Old and New Worlds was the use of oak. For most imported white wines, and even for some reds, wines often were made using either steel tanks or old oak casks. The economics of oak barrels virtually require anyone wanting an oak flavor in a wine $10 or less to use oak chips, shavings and other products, the wood equivalent of cheap perfume. By contrast, the $9 red Talia blend from Sicily, one of Dufault's picks, had coarser edges to its texture thanks to all-steel winemaking, but the fruit flavors were clear and unimpeded. There was less agreement about another familiar strategy: shopping by labels. Dufault gravitated to several mystery wines thanks to their sleek, eye-catching labels, perhaps believing that forward-thinking design signaled a forward-thinking winemaker. Waters did just the opposite: avoiding flashy packaging in favor of what he called more "authentic" - which I'll translate to aesthetically challenged - designs. "The label sometimes tells you if someone has gone in there with world values," he said, invoking the specter of wine globalism. How did they fare? Everyone found plenty of wine to make it through the week. Each basket contained a dud or two, which underscores another bargain hunter's tenet: You'll inevitably taste dishwater on the way to finding nectar, so when you find something good - or at least drinkable - buy all you can carry. Anyone who's ever uncorked a bottle of Charles Shaw in a parking lot will swear to it. Bargain-buying strategies Don't rely on familiar brands. Many popular labels aren't so successful with lower-priced brand extensions. Name recognition may pay off when buying in the $30-$40 range, but Scott Tracy found it to be less reliable in the bargain aisle: "I was surprised as to how the safety in the names was minimal." Embrace obscurity. The popularity of Cabernet and Chardonnay in the bargain aisle doesn't forgive the fact they're largely the wine equivalent of junk food - bland and highly manipulated. Behind Jonathan Waters' call to obscurity lies this: In much of the world, everyday wines are made with native grapes, from Plavac Mali to Trebbiano, that require little manipulation. Invest in a solid guide to varieties (Jancis Robinson's book "How to Taste" covers it well) and practice your pronunciation. Think far afield. The lack of California wines in the mix isn't just sommelier stubbornness. With a few exceptions (and not just the ubiquitous Mr. Shaw) the economics of making wine here rarely favor the under-$10 category. If you really want homegrown wines, remember such domestic labels as Washington's Columbia Crest. Or mix it up: A $7 import and a $13 California bottle still yields an average of 10 bucks. Change is constant. The bargain aisle, especially at Trader Joe's, is filled with one-time-only offers - buyouts from wholesalers, stock that needs to be cleared and so on. Wait too long and they'll vanish. Given these shifting sands, don't dally when you find a winner. Buy more soon. Bargain bins are your friend. Though it takes a savvy shopper to navigate them. Vintage (see below) is more important than ever - don't bank on that 1998 Sauvignon Blanc being drinkable, much less grassy or refreshing - but you can be adventurous for just a couple bucks. Don't forget bubbly. Any of us who survived our college years on $6 cava will testify to this. All three experts found something sparkling within their budgets to make things festive. Know your importers. When encountering mystery wines, all our experts bet that a good importer's palate would prevail. Some of the best offer a polyglot selection: Vin Divino, source of one of Christie Dufault's picks, includes in its portfolio both bargain-priced Italian reds and high-end Austrian Rieslings. Watch out for vintages. Cheap wines are often cheap because of their age. Sometimes an extra year or two can soften a tough red. But inexpensive whites don't typically last. Double-check the vintage on the label against the one on the shelf. The first time Christie Dufault grabbed a Wrongo Dongo, it was a 2006, as marked; the second, which we bought, was a 2005. Bigger can be better. The so-so reputation of double-sized bottles isn't undeserved, but if La Tache comes that way, what's the hang-up with cheap Shiraz? Packaging is a major cost factor for bargain wines, and you can save big by purchasing more in one package. Many bag-in-boxes cut a per-bottle cost down below $5. - J.B. Christie Dufault Wine Director, Quince Strategy: No-holds-barred window shopping The hit: 2007 Toad Hollow The miss: 2007 Zolo Torrontes It's not a stretch to say I presumably witnessed the first - and last - time that Wrongo Dongo would grace the white tablecloths at Quince. Why was Christie Dufault uncorking this simple red from Spain's Jumilla region? Dufault, wine director at the posh Pacific Heights restaurant, pinned credit on a relative who, years ago, decided to play Stump the Sommelier at a barbecue. "My cousin was just like, 'You're going to drink this stuff?' " she recalls. "To my surprise, it was lip-smackingly good." As she stalked the aisles of Cost Plus, Dufault hoped to juggle a mix of regions and styles. So many options caught her eye that nearly every wine in the final cut was banished from the cart at one point or another before being redeemed. What made the cut? A couple were no-brainers. She gave a thumbs-up to the 2006 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages ($9.99) both because she trusted the producer (Dufault believes Jadot to be one of Burgundy's better negociants) and because the region is underrated. Even with a weak dollar, this area of southern Burgundy produces great Chardonnay deals. She decided she'd save it for a proper dinner: a roast Marin Sun Farms chicken, with a final glass for a cheese course afterward. "It's correct, it's minerally, it's chalky," she remarked. "It's got the Chardonnay flesh." She leaned heavily on Sicily, Spain and South America, all wise ideas. Sicily offered up the 2005 Talia ($8.99) red (2006 is the current vintage), a blend of indigenous Nero d'Avola, plus Syrah and Merlot, chosen in part because the importer, Vin Divino, has a portfolio full of affordable stuff, and in part because the wine shares a name with her husband's goddaughter. It was rustic, with tannic structure, right for a pizza delivery. That contrasted with the Wrongo Dongo ($7.99), a project from Spanish importer Jorge Ordonez that harnesses the lesser-known Monastrell grape. That, she said, would wait for a weekend barbecue or a plate of ratatouille. She wanted something fresh and carefree, a recovery wine after a long Monday. From Portugal, the 2007 Aveleda Vinho Verde ($5.99) was fresh but slightly metallic. It was serviceable, but Dufault wished she had instead located one from another producer, Broadbent. More fun was the J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux ($11.99), made in France's western Languedoc, her sparkling pick. She pegged it as the week's special wine. A final white pick, the 2007 Zolo Torrontes ($9.99), proved the perils of even what appears to be a sure bet. Dufault was swayed by this aromatic white grape during her visits to Argentina, and quality is generally high across most versions. Because the Zolo was the latest vintage, it won out in her deliberations, but we found it heavier and more alcoholic than most. Standing in the store, she gazed at rows of California Pinot, most priced above $25, and sighed. "Too expensive. Sorry, people. Not everyday wines." But salvation came in the form of the 2007 Toad Hollow Rosé$9.99), a bargain even by rosétandards - and, unlike many pink wines on the shelves, a current vintage. The wine, from the Healdsburg winery founded by Robin Williams' brother, Todd, was a huge hit. (No surprise: It was a standout from our roséanel tasting this spring). One final bonus bit of excitement: Dufault contemplated a 3-liter bag-in-box of a red Bordeaux, NV Chateau Lhorens, which I disqualified because it was on final discount at $16.50, hence about to disappear. It was simple, but properly Bordeaux-like and a jaw-dropper at the equivalent of $4.13 per bottle. We opened the spout and poured a bit into Quince's fine stemware. Another first, no doubt, in that setting. ------ Christie Dufault's list: 2007 Toad Hollow Eye of the Toad Sonoma County Dry Pinot Noir Rosé$9.99) 2007 Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Mendoza Torrontes ($9.99. Importer: Epic Wines) 2007 Quinta de Aveleda Aveleda Vinho Verde Branco ($5.99; HGC Imports) NV Domaine J. Laurens Cremant de Limoux Brut ($11.99; Vigneron Imports) 2005 Talia Rosso Sicilia IGT Red ($8.99; Vin Divino) 2005 Bodegas Juan Gil Wrongo Dongo Jumilla Red ($7.99; Jorge Ordonez Selections/Henry Wine Group) 2006 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay ($9.99; Kobrand) Lagunitas India Pale Ale (2 bottles; $1.89/bottle) TOTAL: $68.71 Print Christie Dufault's list Scott Tracy Wine Director, La Toque restaurant Strategy: Leverage Trader Joe's bulk-buying power, preferably sticking with California The hit: NV Blason de Bourgogne Cremant de Bourgogne The miss: 2006 Bogle Vineyards California Merlot Scott Tracy got the hardest assignment of all - to root out great cheap drinking in the fancy heart of Wine Country. The prospects were daunting, even at Trader Joe's. Not only were two popular California brands, Bogle and Ravenswood, among the most expensive picks, they also fell short on the price-quality ticker when we sat down to taste. Is it unseemly for a $4 Nero d'Avola from Sicily to overshadow homegrown picks? Maybe, but when it comes to TJ's, that's how you gotta roll. That Nero d'Avola, by the way, the 2006 Archeo ($3.99), a Trader Joe's exclusive, didn't exactly scream with Old World terroir - some bubble gum and crushed grape notes saw to that - but Tracy found it plenty solid for pizza or meatloaf. "I think it's very hard to be mad at it," he said. For that matter, he had few quibbles with the 2006 Bogle Vineyards California Merlot ($8.99), though a lack of distinct Merlot character left him wondering whether shoppers would opt for it over 4 1/2 bottles of Charles Shaw. It certainly paced the 2005 Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($11.99), which had the same friendly sweetness as the Nero d'Avola but, as the most expensive wine in the basket, wasn't a great candidate for a repeat buy. That, ultimately, became our benchmark. As Tracy noted, a savvy Trader Joe's buyer - and, he admits, it's where he first shopped in his formative wine years - tries a whole lot of cheap stuff, buys the good ones by the case and lives with the crapshoot nature of the selections. Which explains how we ended up with the 2004 Rosemount Estate Chardonnay Semillon ($3.99). A simple wine to begin with, and after four years still a virtual relic, near (or way past) the end of its run. Barely more charm came from another Chardonnay-based effort, the 2005 Louis Latour Grand Ardeche ($6.99), which despite the name is basically everyday wine from the hardscrabble Ardeche region of eastern France. Latour is an esteemed Burgundy negociant, so the wine's dual nature - fat and cheaply oaky, then sharp and ashy - seemed like indecision between French austerity and the American fondness for butter. "It's two-faced, like some character your superhero has to defeat," Tracy said. A better choice was the 2006 Castinera Albarino ($7.99) from Spain's Rias Baixas. Tracy liked the freshness and fresh lime notes and matched it to grilled shrimp or ceviche. And he was virtually gaga over the sparkling NV Blason de Bourgogne Cremant de Bourgogne ($8.99), essentially a private label made for supermarkets by a French co-op. It showed plenty of character for a proper Champagne-method wine, enough that Tracy slotted it eagerly for a Sunday brunch with brioche, ham and poached eggs. Still, the homegrown mandate was tough. Tracy contemplated a 2006 Cabernet from B.R. Cohn but abandoned it upon seeing the wide-reaching North Coast appellation, hence the bargain price. He had done so well with his initial picks that he had yet to clear $50, which led him to eye a 2002 Napa Valley Cabernet from Angwin's Spelletich Cellars. Though it was a great deal at $20, it busted through our usual $15 bargain cap and was vetoed. But it raised an important point: Buy enough $4 Nero d'Avola and you earn room to splurge. Tracy was a bit bummed, but soon enough we came upon an alternative: the 2005 Chateau Candelaire ($12.99) from Bordeaux's Canon-Fronsac, west of the Right Bank city of Libourne, made by Chateau La Marche-Canon. Undeniably Old World in style, it showed off sappy cherry amid camphor and burnt leaves. Tracy liked its balance and pronounced it the "feast wine" for his hypothetical week of bargains. "Just because we're in the Napa Valley," he added, "doesn't mean people drink Napa Valley wine on their day off." ------ Scott Tracy's list: 2006 Castineira Rias Baixas Albarino ($7.99) 2004 Rosemount Estate South Eastern Australia Chardonnay Semillon ($3.99) 2005 Louis Latour Grand Ardeche Vin de Pays des Coteaux de L'Ardeche Chardonnay ($6.99) NV Blason de Bourgogne Cremant de Bourgogne ($8.99) 2005 Ravenswood Sonoma County Old Vine Zinfandel ($11.99) 2006 Bogle Vineyards California Merlot ($8.99) 2006 Archeo Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($3.99) //cqing name-jb// 2005 Chateau Candelaire Canon-Fronsac ($12.99) TOTAL: $65.92 Print Scott Tracy's list Jonathan Waters Wine Director, Chez Panisse Strategy: Great values from sustainable, small producers The hits: 2006 Targovishte Traminer, NV Dibon Cava The miss: 2007 Calina Carmenere First, a bit of disclosure on Jonathan Waters' hand up. For his quest, I directed him to the Berkeley Bowl Marketplace, where it turned out he already knew wine buyer Simon Ball and scored recommendations before we went shopping. This actually bolstered his first bargain-hunting tip: Get to know your wine buyer. With more Bay Area supermarkets hiring wine stewards and individual buyers, personal recommendations should be ever easier to get. "If you go home and you don't like any of the wines, then the strategy hasn't worked," Waters said. "But at least it's a good place to start." To convert our $70 into eight wines and pocket change, Waters employed other tricks up his sleeve, which to be fair is precisely what you need when diving into the bargain-wine sea. He already knew his sparkling pick, the NV Dibon Cava Brut Reserve ($8.99), since he has been pouring it at Chez Panisse. And he steered our cart toward wines from less prestigious Old World areas, including Eastern Europe. That's how we ended up with the day's surprise hit: a 2006 LVK Vinprom Targovishte Traminer ($8.99) from Bulgaria, a relative of Gewurztraminer that offered pillowy peach and orange highlights atop a minerally, barely off-dry base. Waters suggested serving it with spring vegetables or a cheese course. His other two whites came from better known regions. A 2007 Chateau Moulin de Ferrand ($7.99) hailed from the virtual sea of wine that is Bordeaux's Entre-Deux-Mers area. The traditional blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon offered solid herbal bounce and a slightly hard-edged texture, but Waters found it "absolutely serviceable" and good for an early-week pick to go with shellfish. Ironically, the other white, a 2006 Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois ($10.95) - Waters' big splurge - was corked. A replacement bottle of this Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc revealed it to be fresh, with lots of grass and straw overtones like the wannabe Sancerre that it is. True to his Chez Panisse compass, Waters stuck with another mission: finding wines made using sustainable methods and, if possible, by small family producers - as he put it, wines with "authenticity." Even at Berkeley Bowl, we had to guess at the provenance of most, but was it a surprise that the single discordant note came from the Chilean project of Jess Jackson's Jackson Family Wine Estates? One tip-off was a sleek label design on the 2007 Calina Valle del Maule Carmenere ($7.50). Waters disregarded his own warning flag about labels and later regretted it - though he diplomatically noted that many would prefer the Calina to another red wine, the 2006 Obra Joven ($7.99) from Ribera del Duero. It was his final pick, after his first seven bottles gave him almost 10 bucks to play with. This all-Tempranillo bottling was a bit hard-edged but amenable to grilled food. Would he opt for the coarser effort, I asked, over a wine made in a deliberately softer modern style? "If I had to answer this question," Waters replied, eyeing the Obra, "I would say I'd always take this wine." For a full 50 cents less, we found happiness with another pick from farther down the Duero River: the 2006 Weise & Krohn Valtorto ($7.50) from Portugal's Douro region, where Port is also made. A mix of Tinta Roriz (the Portuguese synonym for Tempranillo), Touriga Franca and Tinta Barroca, all used in Port, it charmed Waters with its berry-patch flavors. He commended it to a peperonata stew or even a meaty fish, like sea bass with tomato. His sole California pick, a 2006 Shenandoah Vineyards Special Reserve Amador County Zinfandel ($8.99) fit well within Waters' mandate. The Sobon family grows the grapes organically and this lean, floral bottling clocks in at just 13.9 percent alcohol, a true table-wine Zin. Waters proposed it for a Friday night: a bit sweet, relatively light, just right to start the weekend. ------ Jonathan Waters' list: NV Dibon Cava Brut Reserve ($8.99) 2006 Wiese & Krohn Valtorto Douro ($7.50) 2006 LVK Vinprom Targovishte Traminer ($8.99) 2006 Shenandoah Vineyards of California Special Reserve Amador County Zinfandel ($8.99) 2007 Calina Reserva Valle del Maule Carmenere ($7.50) 2007 Chateau Moulin de Ferrand Entre-Deux-Mers ($7.99) 2006 JC Conde Delgado y Otros Obra Joven Ribera del Duero ($7.99) 2006 Henri Bourgeois Petit Bourgeois Vin de Pays du Jardin de la France Sauvignon Blanc ($10.95) TOTAL: $68.90 Print Jonathan Waters' list E-mail Jon Bonnét jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/07/18/WISD11II7C.DTL This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 4 months

[wine] [Fwd: GrapeRadio: Talking Wine with Russell Bevans]

by Joyce Hegstrom

A former Minneapolis resident and a friend to a few in in the group! -------- Original Message -------- Subject: GrapeRadio: Talking Wine with Russell Bevans Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2008 07:56:42 -0700 From: Grape Radio <graperadio(a)private-elist.com> To: jhegstrom(a)csom.umn.edu Grape Radio Click Here: Talking Wine with Russell Bevans <http://www.graperadio.com/archives/2008/07/14/talking-wine-with-russell-bev…> 08bevan.jpg Does the name Russell Bevan ring a bell? Well, it probably does to most wine-geek denizens of the internet. Russell (and his alter ego Bacchus) was there at the start, when wine-based bulletin boards and discussion groups emerged from their cocoons. A rabid wine fan from the time he could buy wine (actually, even before), Russell wanted to learn everything he could about the subject. Eventually, he found many others across the country like himself who were thoroughly into wine. Before long, Russell found himself leading groups of thirsty geeks on extended wine tours of his favorite region, California. These tours became the things of legend, and soon other geeks were doing likewise, exploring and indulging their passion in the California grape scene. So, where did all this crazy passion for wine lead Russell? Right into winemaking. When he was offered a ton of high-quality Cabernet fruit from a very respected source in Napa Valley, Russell jumped at the chance and made his first Bevan Cellars Cabernet. And where did that lead him? The winemaking job at this same source ? Showkett Vineyards. Fast forward to today, Russell leads some of the same friends on a new adventure, hand-sorting through grapes in an all-out effort to make a ?yummy? wine. Join us as we talk with Russell about the early days, the present challenges, and how he and his inspiration Victoria realize a dream of what must seem like the perfect life. For more info on: Bevan Cellars: www.bevancellars.com <http://www.bevancellars.com/> Drystack Cellars: www.drystackwinery.com <http://www.drystackwinery.com/> Showket Vineyards: www.showketvineyards.com <http://www.showketvineyards.com> Best Regards, Your GrapeRadio Crew - www.graperadio.com <http://www.graperadio.com> Visit Your Online Profile <https://secure.murgent.com/emopt/index.php?id=2434&p=1> Stop-Sending <https://secure.murgent.com/emopt/rm.php?id=2434&cid=455929&a=%3DInZuZTauxSd…> Privacy Policy <https://secure.murgent.com/emopt/privacyStatement.php?id=2434> jhegstrom(a)csom.umn.edu is registered with permission. To ensure deliverability please add us to your contact or safe-sender list. Grape Radio | 17802 Irvine Blvd, Ste. 215 | Tustin, CA 92780 EMAIL graperadio(a)gmail.com <mailto:graperadio@gmail.com> mUrgent <http://redir.murgent.com/empactv1.php> -- NOTE NEW E-MAIL ADDRESS: jhegstro(a)umn.edu (there is no "m" at the end of hegstro)

17 years, 4 months

[wine] Erte, Huray for Vouvray

by Jim L. Ellingson

Good food and wine at Erte. They were swamped, made for a very leisurely pace. Our new agreement with them is to pay one or two fifteen dollar corkage fees for the table. Very reasonable IMNSHO. >From the SFGC. THE CHRONICLE WINE SELECTIONS Loire Valley Chenin Blanc Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, July 11, 2008 While wines made from Chenin Blanc can be found throughout the world, those from Northern France's cool Loire Valley may be the best known. Also called Pineau de la Loire, Chenin Blanc is produced mainly in the middle of the Loire Valley, which includes the appellations controlee (name-controlled regions) Jasnieres, Montlouis, Savennieres and Vouvray. French wines are labeled with vintage and the appellation but do not display the name of the varietal, as is the custom on New World wine labels. French wine laws specify which grapes can be grown in which regions, so any wines from Jasnieres, Montlouis, Savennieres and Vouvray are made from Chenin Blanc. Middle Loire producers vinify Chenin Blanc in several different ways, including sparkling and still, and the sugar levels range from dry to sweet. The term "sec" refers to wines with 0.4 percent residual sugar or less. Though "sec" is occasionally on the label, wines not otherwise labeled are usually "sec," or dry. Other French terms that indicate sweetness include "demi-sec" (off-dry) with 0.5 to 1.2 percent residual sugar, "moelleux" (semi-sweet) with 1.2 to 4.5 percent, and "doux" (sweet) with more than 4.5 percent. "Sec tendre" is between sec and demi-sec. Most of the Loire's Chenin Blanc is dry with distinctive high acidity that almost makes your mouth water. This vivacious acidity, combined with tree fruit, citrus and sometimes earthy aromas and flavors, complements complex notes of minerality that are often found in these wines. Some - particularly the sweeter styles - exhibit striking richness with distinctive themes of honey and flowers in both scent and taste. Domestic Chenin Blanc - especially from warm climates - is more fruit-focused and usually lacks its Old World sibling's high acidity and vitality. The panel tasted 26 Loire Valley Chenin Blancs, representing several regions, with almost half from Vouvray; all but a few were dry. We loved the brightness, intensity, minerality and balance of our recommended wines. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Champalou La Cuvee des Fondraux Vouvray Demi Sec ($19) Catherine and Didier Champalou's La Cuvee des Fondraux - made with fruit from 50-year-old vines - has an off-dry sweetness level and 12.5 percent alcohol. A floral nose of damp stone, honey, ripe fig and apricot with hints of petrol and forest floor. Sweet tree fruit surrounds a core of gray mineral; increased acid is balanced with concentrated fruit and a sweet, clean finish. (Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant) Rating: THREE STARS 2004 Domaine Aux Moines Roche Aux Moines Savennieres ($24) Mother-daughter proprietors Monique and Tessa Laroche give their wines some bottle age before release. This still-fresh bottling has mossy, honey spice, pear and warm, bright apricot aromas. An almost-truffle note on the nose; the palate is rich with fruit and has a hint of pithiness and mineral. A Chenin Blanc with spectacular balance and expression. (Importer: Winewise) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Domaine de Belliviere Les Rosiers Jasnieres ($44) Eric and Christine Nicolas purchased their estate and fixer-upper vineyards in 1995. This bottling was made of fruit from 50-year-old vines and fermented in oak barrels, 25 percent of which were new. A nose of honeyed horehound, honeycomb, Bosc pear, browned spiced apple, maitake and intense pine needle. Slightly sweet on the front end with a ripe honeyed fruit base. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections/LDM Wines) Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Domaine Deletang Les Batisses Montlouis Sur Loire Demi-Sec ($21) A fourth-generation member of the Deletang family - Olivier Deletang - has 50 acres of vineyards, including some on limestone and flint soil; Les Batisses is considered by many to be Deletang's most famous vineyard. Marzipan, fresh and honeyed poached pear, dry mint and wet moss on the nose. Dense, stony palate with pineapple, increased acidity and mineral on the finish. (Importer: Winewise) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2004 Domaine des Baumard Clos du Papillon Savennieres ($35) Winemaker-owner Florent Baumard's wine is from a 25-acre vineyard - named for its butterfly shape - located on a steep, southeast-facing slope of old schist. The wine has a soft beginning then becomes lean and taut with a steely mineral presence that overlies high-toned citrus, fern and Meyer lemon peel. Almost a razor's edge leanness that is focused; has a lingering, mineral-driven finish. Among the first wine estates in France to bottle under screwcap. (Importer: Ex Cellars Wine Agencies) Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Domaine du Closel Chateau des Vaults La Jalousie Savennieres($27) Michele de Jessy - great-great-great-granddaughter of Napoleon Bonaparte's chamberlain - inherited this estate in 1961, which has 30 acres of Chenin Blanc. This cuvee is made from both young- and old-vine fruit, which is fermented in stainless steel. Aromas of citrus, ripe candy apple and a bit of earthiness combine with lemony-herb notes. A lean, stony palate with lime pith and a honeyed note on the long finish. (Louis/Dressner Selections/LDM Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Domaine la Grange Tiphaine Les Grenouilleres Montlouis Demi Sec ($20) Winemaker Damien Delecheneau - who worked for a time at Clos Pegase - makes this demi-sec from 80-year-old vines. A distant waxy, oak note lingers above the ripe, honeyed apple and allspice aromas. Dark mineral lingers on palate, with a slightly woodsy, astringent grip on the finish, which provides texture. Young and stylish with a subtle sweetness. (Importer: Premier Wine Co.) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Domaine Jo Pithon Les Pepinieres Anjou Blanc ($20) Founded in 1978, this domaine has 37 organically farmed acres that are all planted to Chenin Blanc; the wines are fermented 12 to 24 months in oak barrels. Reticent nose but overall, the wine has tart Granny Smith apple, ripe pear and damp loam with a taut mineral profile. Bright Meyer lemon surrounds a zippy, mineral palate that has more texture than flavor. A bit hard-edged. (Importer: Veritas Imports) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Francois Chidaine Clos du Breuil Montlouis ($24) Winemaker Francois Chidaine farms biodynamically, producing several styles of Chenin Blanc, including this sec, or dry, bottling. A delicate nose of honeyed flower, pear, beeswax, dried apricot, bark and effusive mineral with a slight celery leaf back note. Flavors of lime, honey, with a fruity sweetness that is well cloaked in zippy acidity and structure that might age a bit. Rich and refreshing with terrific length. (Importer: Beaune Imports) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Francois Pinon Cuvee Tradition Vouvray ($23) This wine - certified organic - is a sec tendre, with a sweetness between a sec and demi-sec. Exotic quince, papaya and honeyed notes surround undertones of slight petrol and wet pine. Juicy, up-front flavors of ripe Bartlett pear, rambutan and lime become delicate with the hints of petrol and mineral then become a little green on the finish. Young and bright but might express beautifully down the road. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections/LDM Wines) Rating: TWO STARS 2004 J. Gigou Domaine de la Charriere Cuvee du Paradis Jasnieres ($19) Joel Gigou bought Clos du Paradis for his son, Ludovic, who is being trained to take the reins of this domaine. Big, full, dense aromas of earth and fern; on the verge of medicinal. Minty menthol spice, petrol and almost hard-edged mineral on the palate. This fresh, austere wine is clean and precise, but its fruit needs to emerge to balance the leanness. (Importer: Winewise) Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Huet Clos du Bourg Vouvray Sec($40) The Gaston Huet estate encompasses 100 acres of Chenin Blanc, including this vineyard, Clos du Bourg - which has shallow, limestone soil. Honey and flowers, bruleed Bosc pear, broad apple notes and wet pine needle aromas with underlying green herb. A fuller, richer style with a touch of residual sugar and acid core but retains its outstanding richness, bright balance and zip. A honeyed note comes out on the finish. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections) Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Huet Le Mont Vouvray Sec ($40) This 20-acre vineyard has biodynamically farmed, 30- to 45-year-old vines. Aromas of honeycomb/beeswax with clover honey, lavender simple syrup and mineral. Effusive white mineral and wet stone precedes the ripe grapefruit, with lingering lemon-lime on the finish. A touch pinched but has a little bit of an edge. (Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections) Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Regis Cruchet Sec Vouvray ($17) Exotic in an almost slightly funky, wild, raw way, with mineral, honey, fresh cedar and pine aromas. Stony palate with pear, beeswax and citrus highlights; a bit of spiciness, tenseness and grip that will be even better with food. (Importer: North Berkeley Imports) Rating: TWO STARS 2005 Vincent Raimbault Sec Vouvray ($17) Vincent Raimbault produces several wines, including a single vineyard, a dessert and this sec, which is slightly on the sweet side of dry. Earth and mineral overlay the slight green character, pine, waxy ripe apple and cinnamon hints. Dense, rich and fresh on the palate, the lean mineral focus lingers on the finish. (Importer: Winewise) Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Ben Jordan, buyer, the Wine House. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine . Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/07/11/WINM11C6V8.DTL This article appeared on page F - 3 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 4 months

[wine] Shiraz/Syrah at Erte

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Never underestimate the importance of a single vote.... :) Erte it is, been a long time. Grape is Syrah, Shiraz, etc. Surdyk's sale is on if your cupboard is bare. 7/24 is Ribs, Zins at Bob's 7/31 is "mediteranian" at Muffies Lori Rutheee Besty Bob Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 09:51:32 -0600 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> Cc: wine(a)thebarn.com Any tasters? Lori, Russ and I are the only confirmed "takers" for a trip to Erte on Thursday. Any brdx grape from any place. I've heard from several others (BIG THANKS!) who will not be there. If there's more interest we'll go, but at N=3, maybe we should pass. Lori, Russ and anyone else? What are your thoughts? Cheers, Jim On Sun, Feb 03, 2008 at 11:09:23PM -0600, Jim L. Ellingson wrote: > Greetings, > > > Cheers, > Jim > > > Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2007 11:28:19 -0500 > From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> > To: wine(a)thebarn.com > > Alternate driving directions.... > > 94 west (north) to Broadway. East accross the river > to Uni. N. to Erte. > > 35W is closed. 394 to Washington, N. to Broadway. > > Can't exit from Hwy 280 to Broadway. 280 to Hennepin is an option. > > ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- > > Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 09:01:12 -0500 > From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> > To: wine(a)thebarn.com > > Greetings, > > > WAG (Wild Guess) list of CITs (Cats In Attendance) > > Lori > Jim > > Joyce may join us on her way home. > > Good seats available. > Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome. > > Erte Restaurant. > 329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413 > 612-623-4211 > > 6:30 on Thursday. > > Cheers, > Jim > > > ----- End forwarded message ----- >

17 years, 4 months

[wine] [mark@muddypig.com: Muddy Pig Events] Gin Tasting, Erte

by Jim L. Ellingson

FYI Muddy Pig Gin Tasting next Monday. Muffy's will most likely be moved back to 7/24. This week one vote for Rest. Erte' and the remaining votes for anarchy and/or/who_cares apathy. C, J ----- Forwarded message from Mark van Wie <mark(a)muddypig.com> ----- Date: Tue, 8 Jul 2008 10:46:24 -0500 From: Mark van Wie <mark(a)muddypig.com> To: Mark van Wie <mvanwie1(a)gmail.com> Subject: Muddy Pig Events X-Google-Sender-Auth: fcb12857f46fa4b2 X-Greylist: Sender IP whitelisted by DNSRBL, not delayed by milter-greylist-4.0 (smtp-relay.enet.umn.edu [128.101.142.227]); Tue, 08 Jul 2008 10:47:01 -0500 (CDT) X-Spam-Score: 1.44 (*) DNS_FROM_RFC_POST,HTML_MESSAGE,SPF_PASS X-Scanned-By: MIMEDefang 2.57 on 128.101.142.227 Beer and Gin Lovers, The Muddy Pig will be hosting a gin tasting next Monday, July 14 at 7:00 p.m. Once again, Jay Johnson of Jayamerica will be here to talk about gin, what it is, how it is made, how one gin differs from another and the history of gin. In addition to getting really smart you will be able to taste 6 different examples of the spirit and enjoy dinner by Oscar all for the crazy low price of just $20. How do we stay in business? Seating is limited and given the response to our tequila and rum events we suggest you purchase your tickets in advance to assure yourself of a spot for the gin tasting. Future Pig events include a vodka tasting in August, bourbon tasting in September and the inaugural Muddy Pig Belgian Beer Festival September 12 – 14. Mark ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 5 months

[wine] Mediteranian at Muffies on 17 July

by Jim L. Ellingson

Been a long time since we went to Muffeletta, 2+years. They are not available this week, but can accomodate us next week. Suggestions for this week??? Erte is very close to Surdyks for anyone working the sale. Barley John's is also on the right side of the river. Anywhere else? Cheers, Jim From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Also a bit on Petite Syrah. Not sure if they grow any of that in Australia. Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 15:12:28 -0600 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Greetings, Happy New Year, Bah-Mitzvah! Had some truly fantastic food at Alma. The three course, $39, prix fixe was the order of the day for most of us. Alma tasting option is unusually flexible. Diner's are able to pick "one form each column". That is any starter, any primi/pasta and any entree. Local pheasant and the risoto were very good. This week, we've been invited to Muffuletta. Muffuletta Cafe 2260 Como St. Paul, 55108 St. Anthony Park 651-644-9116 Style du jour is "Medteranian". Yes Warren/Ruth Betsy Bob Russ Lori Jim Louise is a maybe... Guess: Nicolai Karin Directions: Take Hwy 280 to Como, go east up the hill and then to the second light (Carter). Alt: Take Snelling to Como, West to Carter. Cheers, Jim January 11, 2006 Critic's Notebook Creeping Up on Diners: Stealth Charges By FRANK BRUNI IF you want some red wine with dinner at the opulent new restaurant Gilt in Midtown Manhattan, your options typically rise from a minimum of $20 to a maximum of $1,000, with a median of $55 and an average of $246. That range is about what you would expect, but for this: It's not for red wine by the bottle. It's for red wine by the glass. And while Gilt's pour may exceed the usual, this munificence is a matter of only a few droplets, judging from a $24 glass of 2004 Cakebread sauvignon blanc I had recently. I could have chosen a lesser sauvignon blanc for the veritable pittance of $18, the cheapest alternative among nine whites and the only alternative under $20. But I also could have spent up to $225. Is Gilt an aberration? Yes and no. You'll find few New York restaurants at which Bacchus is such a bully and a snob. But you'll find more and more with tactics, which sometimes seem like tricks, for making a meal costlier than it first appears to be. With add-ons that stealthily add up. With menus like minefields, financially perilous to anyone who strays broadly and heedlessly across them. At Gilt, an extreme case in point, an advertised fixed price of $92 for two savory courses and dessert turns out to be fiction, even apart from the wine. When I dined there, three of eight appetizer options entailed supplemental charges, and those supplements weren't paltry, ranging from $18 to $28. One of seven entrees had a supplement of $16, while another had a surcharge of $18. When I dined at the new restaurant Telepan on the Upper West Side, I spent $15.50 on roasted cauliflower with a special herb oil and crushed heirloom shell beans. Granted, the cauliflower came in three kinds and colors, and it was exceptional cauliflower, undoubtedly artisanal cauliflower, for all I knew the Kobe of cauliflower, hand-massaged and moistened hourly with atomized Evian. But still, it was cauliflower. And as noteworthy as its price was its placement on the menu in a category of "Mid Course" dishes, which was printed after the appetizers and before the entrees and planted the suggestion that a diner who wanted to experience the restaurant fully needed three savory chapters, with respective average costs of about $13, $17 and $27. The structure of the menu at Telepan, which opened in December, recalls the structure of the menu at Thor, which opened in September. Like Telepan, Thor points diners toward two courses prior to the entree, dividing what other restaurants might label appetizers into distinct categories called "Cold Plates to Start" and "Warm Plates in the Middle." Thor has yet another category called "From the Market on the Side," which is where items like roasted or pur�ed potatoes lurk, entailing surcharges of $6 each. Thor's chef, Kurt Gutenbrunner, said in a telephone interview that despite the semantic cues "to start" and "in the middle," the menu is not some culinary bait-and-bait designed to fatten checks by persuading diners to order a little from here, a little from there and, while they're at it, some quark spaetzle or fennel and figs from way over there. Like other architects of today's increasingly segmented menus, Mr. Gutenbrunner said his goal was to give diners more options and control. "When people are going out, they know exactly how much they're going to spend the minute they walk out the door, and they're not going to spend more," he said. "And if you somehow make them, you've lost a long-term customer." But what if it's only a little more? Vicki Freeman, one of the owners of Cookshop, which opened in Chelsea in September, said the existence on its menu of an appetizerlike category for "snacks" has not prompted the diners who order snacks to forgo conventional appetizers, which still have their own category. It has prompted them to explore both categories, and a check for a table of two is $5 to $6 higher as a result. The broadening presence of snacks on menus - Taku, which opened in the Boerum Hill section of Brooklyn in June, also has them - provides just one example of rampant category inflation. A few blocks north of Cookshop, at D'or Ahn, which also opened in September, there are four savory categories ("raw," "cold," "hot," and "side") for modestly portioned dishes, in addition to a category for entrees. Italian restaurants all over the city separate the crudi from the appetizers and the verdure, or vegetables, from the salumi, and before you know it, your $15 pappardelle has become a $50 production. Restaurant consultants and industry observers say that actual prices of appetizers, entrees and fixed-price multicourse meals at upscale restaurants haven't been rising as fast as inflation. But perhaps because of that, they say, some surprising surcharges have popped up. When I ate lunch a few months ago at Bann, a new Korean restaurant in Midtown, the lettuce and miso paste that other Korean restaurants consider a complimentary accouterment to barbecued meat entailed an extra $3. Over the last year, I've been struck by how cunningly many servers push bottled water, asking diners if they want "still" or "sparkling" without ever mentioning a less taxing possibility. In restaurants, apparently, "tap" is a four-letter word. I've had servers wordlessly replace finished bottles of water with new ones, so that my companions and I realized only when the bill arrived that we'd had five bottles at a cost of $60. That's insidious, and that's insane. But it's indicative of the sneakiness at loose upon the restaurant landscape. Sneaky is a fair word for Gilt (where, it should be noted, wines by the bottle aren't as shockingly expensive as by the glass). Gilt opened in December in a series of sumptuous rooms inside the New York Palace Hotel, replacing Le Cirque 2000. While other fixed-price menus have dishes with supplemental charges, I have not seen another New York menu on which the percentage of those dishes is so high. Or on which the charges seem so odd. There's no supplement for lobster, but there's $16 for lamb and $18 for a portion of Dover sole that, when I sampled it, could be consumed in fewer than 10 bites. Gilt may present itself as comparable in price to Jean Georges and Le Bernardin, both of which charge $95 for three savory courses and dessert. But tack on the surcharges and a glass or two of white - at Jean Georges you can get one for $9, at Le Bernardin for $13 - and Gilt has lofted you to unexpected stratospheres of spending. It's hardly the only New York restaurant these days that takes you there.

17 years, 5 months

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