November 26, 2008
Wines of The Times
A Fallen Superstar Earns New Respect
By ERIC ASIMOV
WHEN I was first learning about wine in the late 1970s, people had a word for Pouilly-FuisséIt was .joke..
It was the go-to wine of the ignorant and the pseudo-sophisticated, attractive for its mellifluous, if not-easy-to-say French name, and little else. As white wines were ascendant, Pouilly-Fuisséas a proto-pinot grigio, in demand for every reason except for what was in the bottle.
Pouilly-Fuissé problem was not its popularity. While the area around the towns of Pouilly and Fuisséin the southern Mânnais region of Burgundy, was blessed with great chardonnay vineyards, the 1970s were a nadir in French winemaking. The industry latched on to the notion of better winemaking through chemistry and technology.
The result was a profusion of herbicides and fertilizers, which produced overly abundant grapes, harvested early by mechanical pickers because growers feared the risk of waiting for optimal ripeness. It was a formula for diluted, acidic wines, which were also overpriced. Not every Pouilly-Fuisséell into the sinkhole, but the reputation stuck.
While that reputation has been hard for Pouilly-Fuisséo live down, things have been looking up. A new generation of growers and producers is treating the land and the winemaking with more respect, and the wines have improved greatly. It is still easy to find insipid, overpriced wines besmirching the name, but nowadays it is just as easy to find delicious wines that speak of their terroir and do the region proud.
For a sense of what is available from Pouilly-Fuisséthe wine panel recently sampled 25 bottles. For the tasting, Florence Fabricant and I were joined by two guests, Laura Maniec, director of wine and spirits for B. R. Guest Restaurants; and Olivier Flosse, the wine director for the MARC U.S. restaurant group, which includes A Voce, near Madison Square Park.
First, we had no qualms about the quality. The standard was high, with none of the thin, acidic wines of yore. This was true even with some of the top Pouilly-Fuisséroducers unrepresented.
As with many chardonnay wines of Burgundy, our favorites did not emphasize the pronounced fruit flavors more common in American chardonnays. Instead, they tended to show off a mouthwatering .drink me. texture and mineral flavors that Burgundy lovers prize.
That said, the wines divided into two main styles. One was the crisp, somewhat steely style associated with Mânnais wines, with added depth and substance in the better versions. The other was a richer, more concentrated barrel-fermented style, like the whites of the Côde Beaune.
Some of these were very well done. Others Florence scorned as Burgundy pretenders, while Laura was disturbed by an extravagance in a few that reminded her of California viogniers.
Olivier thought the main stylistic differences were better explained by geography. Wines from the northern Pouilly-Fuisséerritory, around the town of Vergisson, which has a longer growing season, tend to be richer and more succulent, while those from the south, closer to the town of Chaintréare usually leaner with more minerality. Incidentally, a small percentage of the wines known collectively as Pouilly-Fuisséay be called Pouilly-Vinzelles or Pouilly-Lochéafter two other towns in the area.
What kind of value do the Pouilly-Fuisséoffer? Well, in a rare case of price being related to quality, the 6 most expensive wines in the tasting, from $37 to $65, made our top 10, while none of the 6 least expensive wines, from $14 to $22, made the list. This suggests that higher prices reflect greater pains in the viticulture and the winemaking.
Nonetheless, our No. 1 wine and the best value in the tasting was a $26 bottle, the deliciously focused and refreshing 2006 Marie-Antoinette from Jean-Jacques Vincent & Fils. Vincent is the néciant arm of Châau Fuisséa longtime leader in the appellation. The 2004 Châau Fuisséieilles Vignes, from estate-grown grapes, also made our list, at No. 9. It was more expensive at $47, and richer and more complex, but had less energy and drive than the younger wine.
Our No. 2, the 2006 Vieilles Vignes from Denis Jeandeau, was an excellent combination of precision and juicy richness, and should continue to evolve. I would love to taste this wine in a few years. Our No. 3, the 2005 Guffens-Heynen, is from Jean-Marie Guffens, a visionary who has helped lead the striking improvement in the Mânnais in the last 15 years. His wine, the most expensive in the tasting at $65, combined the minerality of a Chablis with a spicy richness, and had me longing for oysters.
Among the rest of our favorites, the 2006 Domaine des Vieilles Pierres CuvéTradition, from Jean-Jacques Litaud, the 2006 from Christophe Cordier and the 2006 La Roche from Daniel et Martine Barraud all tended to be on the more concentrated end, while the 2005 Domaine Chataigneraie-Laborier from Gilles Morat, the 2006 Vieilles Vignes from J. Pierre & Michel Auvigue and the 2007 Joseph Drouhin were leaner and more minerally.
We liked several wines that narrowly missed our top 10. Olivier in particular liked a 2006 Les Scés from J. A. Ferret, while Florence and Olivier both liked a 2006 Clos Varambon from Châau des Rontets. Both were on the richer side. I very much liked the 2007 Louis Jadot, lively, refreshing, and a good buy at $25.
Just as they have everywhere else in France, producers in Pouilly-Fuisséave learned that what sells internationally is quality. Americans who have long turned up their noses at Pouilly-Fuisséhould take on a new challenge: proper pronunciation. For the record, it.s pwee-fwee-SAY.
Tasting Report: Getting Reacquainted With an Old Name
BEST VALUE
Jean-Jacques Vincent & Fils Pouilly-Fuisséarie-Antoinette 2006
$26
***
Weighty yet focused with smoky fruit and mineral flavors. (Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Denis Jeandeau Pouilly-Fuisséieilles Vignes 2006
$50
***
Rich yet precise with juicy, refreshing fruit and a lovely texture. (Angels. Share Imports, Brooklyn)
Guffens-Heynen Pouilly-Fuissé005
$65
** 1/2
Almost Chablis-like, dominated by mineral aromas and flavors with just a touch of richness. (The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, Fla.)
Jean-Jacques Litaud Domaine des Vieilles Pierres Pouilly-FuisséuvéTradition 2006
$23
** 1/2
Rich, balanced, ripe fruit flavors. (Fruit of the Vines, New York)
Gilles Morat Pouilly-Fuisséomaine Chataigneraie-Laborier 2005
$24
** 1/2
Beautifully balanced and elegant with lingering flavors of citrus and minerals. (V.O.S. Selections, New York)
Christophe Cordier Pouilly-Fuissé006
$52
** 1/2
Rich and golden, with complex flavors of butterscotch, smoke and citrus. (Robert Kacher Selections, Washington)
J. Pierre & Michel Auvigue Pouilly-Fuisséieilles Vignes 2006
$37
** 1/2
Lively and complex with long, lingering mineral flavors. (Robert Chadderdon, New York)
Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Fuissé007
$26
** 1/2
Hazelnut and mineral aromas, taut and lively. (Dreyfus, Ashby & Company, New York)
Châau Fuisséouilly-Fuisséieilles Vignes 2004
$47
** 1/2
Ambitious and well-balanced with plenty of oak. (Frederick Wildman & Sons)
Daniel et Martine Barraud Pouilly-Fuisséa Roche 2006
$45
**
Oaky aroma, but rich, balanced and generous on the palate. (Michael Skurnik Selections, Syosset, N.Y.)
WHAT THE STARS MEAN:
Ratings, from zero to four stars, reflect the panel.s reaction to the wines, which were tasted with names and vintages concealed. The wines represent a selection generally available in good retail shops and restaurants and on the Internet. Prices are those paid in shops in the New York region.
Tasting coordinator: Bernard Kirsch
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
FYI/FYE
Can't-fail guide to Thanksgiving wines
Jon BonnéChronicle Wine Editor
Friday, November 21, 2008
Choosing the right wine to pair with your turkey and fixi...
This is a year for doing without the frivolous stuff.
So for Thanksgiving, we thought we'd abandon the usual wine-writer blather about how Thanksgiving is (a) a time to let wine shine, since the food is understated, or (b) a time to drink whatever, since the food is understated (and you'll need the drink). The mountain of utterly contradictory wine advice to match turkey and trimmings grows higher every year. We can't make sense of it, and really, you've heard it all before. Besides, Thanksgiving may come late this year, but have you checked the calendar?
Six days, mister. You're looking for answers. Clarity is of the essence.
We went back and combed our many Wine section recommendations over the years, sorting through our own confused advice. (White Zinfandel, perfect turkey elixir or rotgut? Discuss.) It's enough to drive you to chocolate milk. And chocolate milk does not go well with turkey.
Here's our pocket guide to Thanksgiving wine matching. Bring it to the wine shop. Pair with confidence. We've previously recommended many of these types, so be sure to revisit our Chronicle Wine Selections at sfgate.com/wine. (OK, we couldn't resist a few picks for good Beaujolais, which remains a near-perfect option.)
Otherwise, time's a wasting. If anyone asks for advice, the answer is "Pinot Noir."
Turkey
The quick take: The key is to find wines that are fruity, softer, bright and less tannic. So the hands-down winner - if you've read a Thanksgiving wine story before, you're already mouthing the answer - is Pinot Noir. Also: Beaujolais, or other wines made from the Gamay Noir grape. With too much oak, Merlot can be overwhelming, but plusher ones can offer red fruit and pleasant tea aromas that cut through the bird's richness. Or go the other way - look for more robust wines with age on them that highlight the savory notes in the gravy and meat. Skip aged Burgundies here; they need something more subtle. Try older Cabernet, or perhaps a good aged Bordeaux or Brunello.
White wine works, too, though you'll want to highlight the buttery flavors (and don't skimp on gravy): more opulent Chardonnay; richly textured aromatic whites, like Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Riesling from Alsace, Austria or cooler areas like Mendocino's Anderson Valley; or densely textured Rhone whites made from blends of grapes like Roussanne.
Stuffing
The quick take: Your choice should go with the turkey, too. The butter and bread that form the typical base lend themselves to rich (but balanced) Chardonnay. Beyond that, what else is in the recipe? Fruit, especially berries, matches Pinot Noir, though apples might call for a dry Riesling or Gewurztraminer. Mushrooms? Pinot or Beaujolais. Bacon or sausage call for a slightly more robust red, perhaps a leaner Syrah or a Beaujolais. Oysters and shellfish kick you back to white, perhaps one with more mineral presence, like a white Rhone or Burgundy. Some oak on the whites is fine, given the toasty, nutty flavors.
Sweet potatoes
The quick take: If these are what you live for, think a bit sweet - a bit. Off-dry Gewurztraminer or Riesling can work - especially if they have high acidity to balance. The more cinnamon or other brown spices you use, the more Gewurz will work. Or tone down the sugar and let it go with the usual reds. Marshmallow? Just say no.
Green vegetables
The quick take: The temptation is to go with a leaner, more herbaceous white. But often they're too lean for the rest of the plate (and the season). Many of the dry aromatic whites will work - not just the Alsatian-style wines but also more obscure varietals like Sylvaner and Kerner. Or try Austrian Gruner Veltliner and dry Riesling.
Cranberry sauce
The quick take: The fruitier the wine, the better. Enjoy it in small helpings or, as we know, it will impart its flavor to everything on the plate. See the choices for turkey.
Squash soup
The quick take: Go for a dense, powerful white without much oak influence. Intense dry Smaragd Rieslings from Austria's Wachau are a great match for their opulence and cutting minerality, as are their weightier counterparts from around the world. (Look for alcohol above 13 percent; here the ripeness translates as richer mouthfeel.) A similar effect comes from white Rhone-style wines and aromatic wines like Pinot Blanc or Gewurztraminer.
Pie
The quick take: Fashionable as it is to match a sweet wine with Thanksgiving baked goods in all their sugary density, it's overkill. Serve coffee.
Save the sweet wines for later, including Sauternes or Tokaji (if there's dried fruit or nuts in the cornucopia), or Port and Madeira if you want to deepen the post-meal food coma.
Leftovers
The quick take: Buy extra sparkling wine and keep the festivities going all weekend. Or crack open a beer. You deserve one.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/11/21/WIDA1468EH.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Hey Russ/Sue, Have you heard of this label?
Everyone: Anything going on v.a.v. Beaujolais Neuveau?
Perhaps a party at Beaujolais Bobi's House of Dolchetto? :)
Cheers,
Jim
----- Forwarded message from The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com> -----
Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:28:25 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:28:25 -0500 (EST)
Message-Id: <200811191328.mAJDSP46006520(a)winex2100.cniweb.net>
To: jellings(a)me.umn.edu
Subject: 30SecWineAdvisor: Local Riesling
From: The 30 Second Wine Advisor <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
X-Sender: <wine(a)wineloverspage.com>
THE 30 SECOND WINE ADVISOR, Wednesday, Nov. 19, 2008
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TODAY'S SPONSOR
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IN THIS ISSUE
* LOCAL RIESLING Combining the month's focus on Riesling styles with our
occasional examinations of Eastern U.S. wines, we uncork a good Riesling
from Kentucky, of all places.
* WHAT IS THE WINE LIBRARY DAILY OFFER? If you've never subscribed to
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* LOVER'S LEAP 2006 KENTUCKY RIESLING ($10.99) Nicely balanced and
appealing and, as Rieslings do, works very well with a variety of food
flavors.
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LOCAL RIESLING
Combining the month's Wine Focus on Riesling styles with our occasional
examinations of Eastern U.S. wines, let's uncork one of the more obscure
wines I'm ever likely to feature here: A Riesling from Kentucky.
This concept may not be as crazy as it first appears: If Kentucky is
known for its limestone soil and water that produces great Bourbon, why
shouldn't that terroir - not entirely different from some of Europe's
best wine-growing areas - show well in Riesling, a grape variety
particularly known for its expression of the earth in which it is grown?
Of course, there's the small matter of vineyard age and experience:
Germany's Rhine has been producing great wine since the Emperor
Charlemagne was crowned there more than 1,200 years ago. In contrast,
Kentucky's modern wine tradition goes back maybe 15 or 20 years,
although it's gaining a bit of momentum as farmers seek value-added
agricultural alternatives to tobacco.
But these issues are typical of small-farm wineries in the Eastern U.S.
The producer of today's Riesling, Lover's Leap Vineyard & Winery of
Lawrenceburg, Ky., between Louisville and Frankfort, the state capital,
boasts a few years of wine-making time. Jerry and Ann Holder have been
growing grapes on their 24-acre property on a high bluff above the
Kentucky River since 1994, and began producing wine there commercially
early in the 2000s.
While I don't find a lot of limestone minerality in today's featured
wine, Lover's Leap 2006 Kentucky Riesling, there is plenty of Riesling
varietal character, with a ripe peach aroma and a back note of spearmint
leading into a rather full texture. A touch of fresh-fruit sweetness is
nicely balanced by tart acidity, and it finishes quite dry. My tasting
notes are below.
Like many Eastern wines from small producers, Lover's Leap wines are not
available in interstate commerce. You can buy them at the winery and
select Kentucky retail shops. As always when I write about small-farm
Eastern wines, my advice is simple: Get out in your own part of the
world and support your local wineries. Chances are you'll find someone
making an attractive Riesling nearby.
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LOVER'S LEAP 2006 KENTUCKY RIESLING ($10.99)
Clear light gold in color. Distinct peach aroma with a back note of
something like spearmint. Rather full in texture, a first impression of
fresh-fruit sweetness is nicely balanced by tart acidity and finishes
quite dry. It's a fruit-driven Riesling ... I don't pick up minerality
here, and perhaps terroir is unlikely in Kentucky's limestone soil and
hot summer climate. Still, it's lightweight at 11.4% alcohol, nicely
balanced and appealing and, as Rieslings do, works very well with a
variety of food flavors. (Nov. 13, 2008)
FOOD MATCH: A natural match with Chinese vegetarian fare (pan-fried tofu
with spinach and stir-fried eggplant and garlic) from a local
restaurant.
VALUE: Even from an unfamiliar wine region, a quality Riesling for just
over $10 makes a pretty good deal.
WHEN TO DRINK: Ready to drink but should hold up for a year or two.
WEB LINK:
Here's a list of wines on the winery Website, which also includes
information about the winery, its owners and wine maker and more.
http://loversleapwine.com/LoverLeap-2008/WineList.htm
FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Because of its limited regional production, Lover's Leap Riesling and
other Lover's Leap wines are only available at the winery and select
Kentucky wine shops. As always when I feature local wineries, I
encourage you to visit a small-farm winery in your own part of the world
and support your local wine maker.
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Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Copyright 2008 by Robin Garr. All rights reserved.
----- End forwarded message -----
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
FYI/FYE
November 18, 2008, 6:00 am
Real Men Get Prostate Cancer
By Tara Parker-Pope
Hormone therapy to shrink or slow the growth of prostate cancer is one of the most common treatments for the disease. New York Times editor Dana Jennings, who was diagnosed with prostate cancer earlier this year, talks about his own treatment with the drug Lupron.
By Dana Jennings
The day after my most recent hormone injection for prostate cancer, I told my wife, Deb, that I had a headache, hot flashes, cramps and was very, very hungry.
Dana Jennings. (Lonnie Schlein/The New York Times)
She said, .Sweetie, you.re having your period.. We both laughed. (Laughter is a crucial therapy in my treatment.)
Those are just a few of the side effects I.ve been experiencing on Lupron, which is part of the hormonal treatment for my advanced case of prostate cancer. Lupron is a testosterone suppressant, designed to starve hormone-dependent cancer cells of the fuel (testosterone) that they crave in order to grow. My doctors believe, and studies indicate, that using hormonal therapy to complement my radiation treatments, which are scheduled to start next month, will give me a better chance of being cured, of survival.
In the past couple weeks, I.ve also had back, joint and muscle aches, random itchiness: that spider-crawling-on-your-skin feeling, cotton mouth, sudden fatigue and fleeting bursts of pain in my jaw, chest and armpits. These are not complaints, just observations.
Oh, and my testicles are shrinking. There.s also intermittent testicle tenderness and, sometimes, they get so warm they feel as if they.re on simmer. And the most unexpected side effect, so far, is that sometimes during sex, a Lupron headache suddenly descends and hammers at my skull.
Essentially, my Lupron shots are inducing biochemical (but reversible) castration. Besides the hot flashes and shrinking testicles, another potential side effect is that a man.s breasts grow larger and more sensitive. Now, I.ll tell you straight up, no doctor ever sits you down and says, .Son, to cure you, we might have to kind of turn you into a woman.. I suspect that some men would almost rather die than have hot flashes and larger breasts.
Prostate Cancer Journal One Man.s Story
Dana Jennings blogs about his experience with prostate cancer.
* The Good Cancer?
These facts home in on why so many men often have trouble talking about prostate cancer. The treatment of the disease strikes at the very heart of our cliché John Wayne image of the American male. Impotence and incontinence, cramps and man-breasts just don.t sell pickup trucks and the King of Beers, hoss. These symptoms are not some mere midlife crisis . more like a change-of-life crisis . that can be salved or solved with topical (and typical) macho palliatives, like buying a candy-apple-red Hummer or having an extramarital affair. They shake the very pillars of what we talk about when we talk about being a man.
I.m trying to cope with my prostate cancer, its treatment and its retinue of emasculating side effects by gathering myself each morning, seeking the man I still am . that I know I am . in the steamy bathroom mirror, and swearing to love all the things I love in this sweet old world more than ever: My wife and my sons, my faith, and my friends (and classic soul and country music).
I refuse to become my side effects and have decided that side effects are only side effects, a dark but necessary door to walk through toward the possibility of being well. And, hey, at least my voice is still deep.
Other common side effects of Lupron include lessened sexual desire (not yet, in my case), impotence (it depends on your definition) and osteoporosis . I.m taking a calcium supplement twice a day and walking miles and miles to try to prevent that.
When it comes to my current side effects, the hot flashes are the strangest . and, literally, keep me awake at night. Sometimes, they feel like an unusually warm spring day creeping up my back. Other times, they.re like being jammed into a stuffed New York City subway car in August, and the air-conditioning is broken. My healthy red glow? Chemically induced.
So, on any given Sunday this fall, you.ll find me nesting on the couch with my 22-year-old son, Drew, crunching on salty snacks (I told you that I was very, very hungry), nursing the one porter or stout I treat myself to, and watching the N.F.L. . my face flushed with the occasional hot flash, and .kegeling. all the while. You women remember kegeling . the contracting and relaxing of the muscles that make up the pelvic floor, exercises recommended before and after pregnancy. Well, prostate cancer patients need to do them, too, mainly to help improve bladder control.
It.s true. Real men . even when they.re on Lupron . can kegel and watch the N.F.L. at the same time.
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* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
At times like these, it's too bad B-Bob doesn't have
e-mail access.
Cheers,
Jim
http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/11/11/AR200811110…
A Diplomatic Champion for Chile
By Dave McIntyre
Wednesday, November 12, 2008; F05
Just a few days after Mariano Fernandez assumed his post as Chile's ambassador to the United States, he scored his first diplomatic triumph. Serving as a judge at the Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition, he convinced the four other judges at his table that a wine he particularly liked was worthy of a gold medal. The next day, when the entire 20-judge panel tasted the top-scoring wines from among the more than 300 entered, the wine he'd championed -- Osprey's Dominion Reserve Merlot 2002 from Long Island -- was voted best of show.
In the two years since, Fernandez has been busy with more traditional diplomatic duties in managing relations between Santiago and Washington. But he has also been a visible and vocal advocate of Chile's wine industry, playing a more active role than most ambassadors in promoting their country's vino.
Fernandez calls wine "my secret profession." He is an internationally recognized wine expert as a member of the Academie Internationale du Vin and honorary member of two Bordeaux societies, the European Wine Society of Austria and a cellarful of Chilean wine organizations. He is a regular judge at the annual Concours Mondiale de Bruxelles and at competitions in Spain and Chile.
His love affair with wine began in the 1970s in Germany, where the young diplomat lived in exile during the Pinochet regime, working as a journalist for a Spanish-language news service. He developed his expertise further with diplomatic postings as ambassador to the European Union, Italy, Spain and Great Britain. In 2006, President Michelle Bachelet sent Fernandez to Washington, where he expects to stay until her term expires in 2010.
In an interview over several glasses of wine at the Chilean residence, Fernandez described a wine industry in ferment, in which family wineries dating from the 1850s compete with younger operations backed by investors in France or the United States. Chile is justifiably known for producing inexpensive, reliable wines, yet it has proved in the past decade that it can produce fine luxury wines as well.
"The new style of Chilean wine is part of the new wine world: more concentration, more structure, more alcoholic degrees compared to the old style," Fernandez said. Exploring that newer style, we tasted a Montes Folly 2001, a syrah from Fernandez's collection that showed gorgeous fruit with a velvety texture, and the Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2003, quite expressive though still young and tannic. "If we age this another 10 years, it should mellow," Fernandez said.
Despite those successes, however, I wonder whether a move toward the modern "international" style is a welcome trend. That style of wine, praised by critics and prized by collectors, is difficult and expensive to pull off, and the market is saturated with clumsy, over-concentrated, high-alcohol imitations. Chile is not immune to this, and with few exceptions luxury wines from Chile remain a risky purchase.
Chile remains strongest in the bargain and mid-price categories, where for decades it has consistently beaten California in quality and bang for the buck. And no longer is it limited to merlot and cabernet sauvignon from the Maipo and Colchagua valleys. New regions such as Casablanca, Leyda, Limari, Elqui and Malleco are appearing on bottles of sauvignon blanc, Riesling, pinot noir and syrah.
"We are on the verge of finding the greatest terroirs of Chile," Fernandez said. "We have potential for great diversity, with Riesling and Gewuerztraminer in the south to Mediterranean grapes like syrah and tempranillo in the center and north."
Chile consistently ranks fourth in U.S. wine imports, behind Italy, Australia and France, according to the trade association Wines of Chile. In 2007, Chilean wine imports to the United States grew by 13 percent in quantity and 24 percent in value, indicating that American consumers may be trading up from the inexpensive table wine Chile became known for 20 years ago.
Despite the popularity of Chilean wines among American consumers, Fernandez has little regard for U.S. wine publications, particularly Wine Spectator magazine. He says the "experts" dismiss Chilean wines and their ability to age. "They always say drink within five years. Why set such limits?" he asked.
To prove his point, a few months ago he hosted several journalists for a dinner that featured eight vintages of Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon, dating from 1992 back to 1960. When this wine was first sold in the United States, during the 1980s, it cost about $7. Today at full retail the 2006 costs $16. The wines were outstanding, and my notes on the 1960 raved about the "fantastic nose . . . wood, earth and stone, the basic elements," and hints of mint, cocoa and caramel on the palate.
Cousino-Macul, established in 1856, is still owned by the Cousino family. Fernandez called it "a fair friend," noting that he still has bottles from the early 1950s in his 3,000-bottle collection back home in Chile. He clearly misses that collection, which includes Bordeaux back to 1945, the year he was born.
"I haven't lived there in eight years," he said ruefully. "The last time I went home, I pulled out a few bottles, and, ahh, they were magnificent!"
Dave McIntyre can be reached through his Web site, http://www.dmwineline.com, or at food(a)washpost.com.
Recommended
Wednesday, November 12, 2008; F05
Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2005
***
Colchagua Valley, $65
A valley within the Colchagua Valley appellation, Apalta produces some of Chile's top wines. This leading entrant in the luxury category has fresh, springlike aromas, plenty of oak, silky tannins and a long, complex finish.
Washington Wholesale; available at MacArthur Beverages, Calvert Woodley and Wine Specialist in the District.
Cousino-Macul Antiguas Reservas Cabernet Sauvignon 2006
**
Maipo Valley, $16
(Good Value)
One of the most consistently good values in cabernet at this price range, this vintage is more international in style than is typical for this wine, which used to evoke Europe. Decant an hour or more before drinking.
Billington; widely available, including at Montgomery County liquor stores; on the list at Zola, Brasserie Beck and Lauriol Plaza in the District.
Errazuriz "Wild Ferment" Chardonnay 2007
**
Casablanca Valley, $21
Made with native yeast, which helps show the local characteristics, this is a lively wine, rich with roasted apple and creme brulee notes. It is long, complex and delicious.
Monument Fine Wines; available at Finewine.com in Gaithersburg and at Modern Liquors and Watergate Wine and Beverage in the District; on the list at Vinoteca and BLT Steak in the District.
2 Brothers Big Tattoo Red 2006
* 1/2
Colchagua Valley, $10
(Good Value)
This is one of the best values in our market today. A blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah, it has great balance and more interest than most wines in this price category. Buy it by the case.
Billington; widely available, including at Montgomery County liquor stores; on the list at Kemble Park Tavern, Zola, Creme and Chi-Cha Lounge in the District.
Emiliana Natura Chardonnay 2008
* 1/2
Casablanca Valley, $12
(Good Value)
Made from organic grapes, this unoaked chardonnay offers crisp apple, quince and pear flavors.
Republic National; available at Ace Beverage, Schneider's of Capitol Hill and Paul's of Chevy Chase in the District; on the list at Darlington House and Peacock Grand Cafe in the District.
Falernia Sauvignon Blanc Reserva 2007
* 1/2
Elqui Valley, $12
(Good Value)
Chile is developing a style of sauvignon blanc that falls between grassy-herbal New Zealand and tropical-fruit-flavored California. This delicious wine, new to our market, has citrus and fresh, white fruits, enveloped by focused acidity to give it structure.
Bacchus and Virginia Imports; on the list at Darlington House in the District and at Vino Volo at Dulles and BWI airports.
Terra Noble Gran Reserva Carmenere 2007
* 1/2
Maule Valley, $15
(Good Value)
Carmenere, the "lost grape" of Bordeaux, may be Chile's signature grape. It can reek of pipe tobacco; but this stylish wine is tamed by lush cherry and silky tannins.
Winebow; available at Bacchus Wine Cellar, Connecticut Avenue Wine & Liquor, Todito's Grocery, Watergate Wine & Beverage and Paul's of Chevy Chase in the District; on the list at Ardeo, Capital Grille and Zola in the District.
Veramonte Primus 2005
* 1/2
Casablanca Valley, $12
(Good Value)
It's very oaky when first opened, but the fruit integrates nicely with time. Cellar it for a few years, and impress your friends with how little you paid for it; or at least open it an hour before drinking. Once it comes together, it shows nice tobacco and earth notes over berry fruit and silky tannins.
RNDC; available at Calvert Woodley, Pearson's and Chevy Chase Wine & Spirits in the District; on the list at Ardeo, Fogo de Chao and Old Ebbitt Grill in the District.
KEY
*** Exceptional
** Excellent
* Very good
Prices are approximate. Check Winesearcher.com to verify availability, or ask a favorite wine store to order through the distributor.
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Hey gang,
how about kicking off December with a Wednesday at Ngon Vietnamese Bistro on University Ave. in St Paul? Hai, the owner says Wednesday is better for them than Thursday.
No corckage.
Reservation for 10 @ 6:30, Wednesday December 3rd.
Ngon Bistro is located at 799 University Ave, St. Paul, (the cross-street is Avon). 651-222-3301
The menu is on line at ngonbistro.com
Wine theme? How about "wines you feel will go with the food". The Ngon wine menu is on line as well. You can use that as a guide to how broad the relationship of wine and Vietnamese bistro fare is.
RSVP to gregory.warren(a)yahoo.com
hope to see you there.
Warren
FYI
November 8, 2008
Once Just an Aging Sign, Falls Merit Complex Care
By JOHN LELAND
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/people/l/john_lelan
d/index.html?inline=nyt-per>
MEDFORD, N.J. - Katherine Aliminosa, 93, shattered her lower leg while
getting snacks for her nieces.
Susan Arnold, 87, broke her hip hanging a photograph.
In mid-July, in a nursing unit of a retirement community here, the two
women were at the start of a recovery process that both hoped would
return them to their previous lives.
Their progress over the next few months, and their divergent outcomes,
illustrate the unpredictable impact that common falls can have on the
bodies of older people.
By early autumn, Ms. Aliminosa had graduated to an independent living
apartment and was able to get around with a walker. She looked like a
different person: more robust, content.
Though six years younger, Ms. Arnold never recovered her strength after
hip surgery. Her muscles atrophied from inactivity, and she developed
pneumonia
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/pneumonia/overview.html
?inline=nyt-classifier> . She died on Sept. 6.
Once considered an inevitable part of aging, falls are now recognized as
complex, often preventable events with multiple causes and consequences,
calling for a wide range of interventions, both psychological and
physiological, that many patients never receive.
Even falls that cause only minor injury "need to be taken as seriously
as diabetes
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/diabetes/overview.html?
inline=nyt-classifier> ," said Dr. R. Sean Morrison, a professor of
geriatrics and adult development at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in
New York, because "they can be a real warning sign that something
serious is wrong."
Dr. Mary E. Tinetti, a falls expert at Yale University
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/organizations/y/yal
e_university/index.html?inline=nyt-org> medical school, compared falls
to strokes in their harmfulness, adding that people do not always report
them or seek help, for fear their families will try to put them in
nursing homes
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/health/diseasesconditionsandhealthto
pics/nursing_homes/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier> . For some people,
Dr. Tinetti said, admitting that they fall is tantamount to admitting
that they are no longer competent to take care of themselves.
Each year, 1.8 million Americans over age 65 are injured in falls,
according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/organizations/c/cen
ters_for_disease_control_and_prevention/index.html?inline=nyt-org> .
Some rebound as if the injury never happened. But for some, the fall
sets off a downward spiral of physical and emotional problems -
including pneumonia, depression
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/symptoms/depression/overview.ht
ml?inline=nyt-classifier> , social isolation, infection and muscle loss
- that become too much for their bodies to withstand.
In 2005, the last year for which statistics are available, 433,000
people over 65 were admitted to hospitals
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/health/diseasesconditionsandhealthto
pics/hospitals/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier> after falling, and
15,800 died as a direct result of the fall. Less visible are the many
who survive the fall but not the indirect consequences.
When first interviewed in mid-July, Ms. Aliminosa and Ms. Arnold felt
vulnerable and constrained, their world diminished. Both had led
accomplished professional lives - Ms. Arnold as a school psychologist,
Ms. Aliminosa as a medical researcher - and had been active in the
community's independent living apartments. But neither could be
confident about what the future held.
Ms. Aliminosa said she was depressed, and able to walk only in very
small stretches. A small woman with a soft voice and grainy New York
accent, she barely filled her chair. She seemed defeated. "Emotionally I
have not been well," she said. "It's made me very aware of my age, and
that's hard to accept."
Ms. Arnold, by contrast, was full of emotional energy, so angry about
her broken hip that she kicked out for emphasis as she talked, turning
conversation into a full-contact sport. Before her fall, she had been
preparing for a vacation with her daughter at a family beach house on
Long Island - the same house where she had spread her husband's ashes.
Now that plan was gone.
"It kills me, it just kills me," she said. "This was going to be the
frosting on the cake, and somebody ate it."
Of the two women, Ms. Arnold was up against the longer odds. One in five
hip-fracture
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/injury/broken-bone/overview.htm
l?inline=nyt-classifier> patients over age 65 die within a year after
surgery, according to the C.D.C.; one in four have to spend a year or
more in a nursing home. When younger people fall, they tend to break
their wrists catching themselves, but in older people, who have slower
reactions and less upper-body strength, the weight more often falls on
their hips or heads. Any underlying conditions, like heart disease or
respiratory problems, increase the chances of a downward health spiral.
Ms. Arnold had a history of pulmonary disease, and had been a heavy
smoker, starting after high school. "She had a boyfriend in college,"
her daughter, Margery Creek, said, "and it was the lesser of evils -
sex, drinking or smoking
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/specialtopic/smoking-and-smokel
ess-tobacco/overview.html?inline=nyt-classifier> ."
But her lung problems did not keep her down. In 2006, she took a 10-day
trip to Sweden. Even after she fell and fractured a hip that autumn, she
lived independently and was able to drive, returning to the beach house.
That day in mid-July, even as she talked about depression, she took
jubilant delight in photographs of her grandchildren and
great-grandchildren. "Now if that isn't the picture of a baby," she
said. "Isn't she a sweetie?"
If Ms. Arnold were a machine, it would be simple to draw a straight line
between her lung disease
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/lung-disease/overview.h
tml?inline=nyt-classifier> , her hip surgery and her chances of
recovery. Older bodies typically have several weakened systems that are
dependent on one another, and rely on drugs that may or may not work
well together. "If you take 70-year-olds, on average they're taking five
medications," Dr. Tinetti said. "When you get to 10 medications" - as a
patient might after a fall - "the likelihood of adverse effects is close
to 100 percent."
But psychological factors can be as devastating as the physical trauma,
Dr. Tinetti said. "It's the fear of falling, the lost confidence. Good
walkers stop walking, stop going to church. They become socially
isolated and depressed."
After Ms. Arnold's first broken hip, she had reduced feeling in one
foot, which added to the likelihood that she would fall again.
On July 6 this year, it happened: Ms. Arnold turned her body without
moving her foot, pulling the closet door down with her when she fell and
fracturing her hip bone.
"I'm outraged," she said a week after the fall, raising her voice and
then becoming fatigued. Her breathing was interrupted by coughing
spasms. She said she was determined not to end up using an electric
cart. "Disappointment," she said, accenting each syllable. "I had a very
good life."
"But your life isn't over," said Deanna Gray-Miceli, an adjunct
assistant professor of nursing at the University of Pennsylvania
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/reference/timestopics/organizations/u/uni
versity_of_pennsylvania/index.html?inline=nyt-org> and an expert in
geriatric falls who was looking in on Ms. Arnold in the nursing unit.
"Well, it bloody well is," Ms. Arnold said. "I have no strength. Let's
talk about depression."
The period of immobility after a fall is particularly dangerous, said
Dr. Gray-Miceli, whose research includes studying a group of patients
after falls. "Being immobile, you're not taking deep breaths, you're
more prone to orthostatic pneumonia, or older people can develop urinary
incontinence
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/symptoms/urinary-incontinence/o
verview.html?inline=nyt-classifier> . And that can have a whole cascade
of emotional consequences as well as the physical consequences, such as
skin breakdown, pressure sores, bladder infection
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/urinary-tract-infection
/overview.html?inline=nyt-classifier> , lung infection.
"We also see temporary confusion from infection," she added, "And that
can lead to someone's demise."
Dr. Gray-Miceli's work focuses on identifying the causes of falls, which
might include treatable factors like changes in gait, low blood pressure
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/test/blood-pressure/overview.ht
ml?inline=nyt-classifier> , declining vision or heart arrhythmias
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/arrhythmias/overview.ht
ml?inline=nyt-classifier> , as well as conditions in the home. In a
study by Dr. Tinetti, simple preventive suggestions from doctors, like
physical therapy
<http://topics.nytimes.com/top/news/health/diseasesconditionsandhealthto
pics/physicaltherapy/index.html?inline=nyt-classifier> and changes in
medication, reduced falls by 11 percent. (The C.D.C. offers tips to
reduce falls at home
<http://cdc.gov/ncipc/pub-res/toolkit/Falls_ToolKit/DesktopPDF/English/b
ooklet_Eng_desktop.pdf> , like removing loose rugs and making sure
stairway handrails go all the way to the bottom, at
cdc.gov/ncipc/duip/preventadultfalls.htm
<http://www.cdc.gov/ncipc/duip/preventadultfalls.htm> .)
For Ms. Arnold, it was too late. Shortly after surgery she grew
depressed and fatalistic, her daughter said. "One morning when my
brother was here, she woke up and said, 'I'm weary, I'm just absolutely
weary,' " Mrs. Creek said. "And she had no muscle that came back. Her
arms had really gotten down to skin and bones. You hear that term - it
certainly seemed that way, no muscle."
In August, Ms. Arnold developed pneumonia and spent three nights in the
hospital. Though she responded well to the medications, Mrs. Creek said:
"It was just one more nail. She said she was ready to be with Dad."
The last time Mrs. Creek called her, in early September, Ms. Arnold
could recognize her voice but not respond, Mrs. Creek said. "I think she
just said, 'I've had it, I'm checking out.' "
Down the hall, Ms. Aliminosa's response after her leg fracture was just
as unpredictable.
On April 4, she was enjoying a visit from two favorite nieces - Ms.
Aliminosa never married - when she found herself on the floor of her
apartment, she said. She had no memory of how she fell.
Ms. Aliminosa has osteoporosis
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/disease/osteoporosis/overview.h
tml?inline=nyt-classifier> and a history of falling, so she told her
relatives not to touch her until the nurses came. She needed a metal rod
in her leg and began a slow process of physical rehabilitation. She said
the falls were the first thing that made her feel old. "I'd love to be
able to have dinner and take a short walk, and I can't do that," she
said.
Because she was in a full-spectrum medical facility, her care was well
coordinated, said Dr. Albert Siu, a professor and chairman of geriatrics
and adult development at Mount Sinai.
"For example, osteoporosis is often at root of this," Dr. Siu said. "But
in a three-day hospital stay, addressing osteoporosis is not at the top
of everyone's mind. There it's dealing with the pain, the complications
and the repair of the fractured hip." Medications for blood pressure or
pain might increase dizziness
<http://health.nytimes.com/health/guides/symptoms/dizziness/overview.htm
l?inline=nyt-classifier> or chance of falls. In mid-July, while Ms.
Arnold was angry but relatively mobile, Ms. Aliminosa seemed resigned to
a loss of mobility and independence. The prospect weighed heavily on
her. When asked if she had considered counseling for depression, she
said she did not think she could bear talking about it. "I think as we
get older it's hard to control our emotions," she said.
Patients' pessimism can be self-fulfilling, because they may not walk to
the extent they can. "Their stride becomes shorter," Dr. Morrison said.
"They don't use their lungs."
Dr. Gray-Miceli said it was important for doctors and nurses to keep the
patient focused on tangible signs of progress, "so she can say: 'Today I
got up by the side of the chair and took five steps. Yesterday I only
took four steps.' "
Ms. Aliminosa began a physical therapy regimen to build strength in her
legs and upper body and improve her gait. With improvement she gained a
sense of optimism and control over her body.
She said the depression returned from time to time, as did the fear of
falling again. But she said: "The thought that I'm getting better has
helped a great deal. I try to think so each day, really."
She smiled; she joked. On a recent morning, she groused amiably about
her fitness program, but finished, with no sign of pain or exhaustion.
"I'm walking," she said, "I wouldn't say to my satisfaction, because I
used to be a hiker. I can't expect that yet, but I'm hoping for it."
Dr. James Ellingson, Ph.D.
763-557-9348
Principal Engineer,
www.PrototypeSys.com
Prototype and Production Systems, 13,000 Hwy 55,
Plymouth, MN 55441
Fax 763-374-4728 mobile 651-645-0753 13,860 Industrial Park
Blvd, 55441
FYI/FYE.
Follow the link, send an email to
http://rieslingrules.com/the_book/index.php
'info(a)rieslingrules.com'
Cellar reading: 'Riesling Rules' - really
Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer
Friday, November 7, 2008
"Riesling Rules" is packed with plenty of whimsical yet h...
With Riesling's explosion onto the wine scene, this hedonistic but intellectual wine is getting a boost from a timely, concise and extremely comprehensive guide: "Riesling Rules."
Pacific Rim Winemakers - Randall Grahm's forward-thinking organization of self-described Riesling zealots - has published its first edition of a booklet that should be required reading for anyone wanting to learn more about this versatile, food-friendly grape.
Erudite and accurate, with a tongue-in-cheek tone, "Riesling Rules" demystifies complicated rules and makes them easy to understand. For instance, the oft-confusing Pradikat system - the legal classification of German Riesling grape ripeness - is clearly explained and illustrated.
And Riesling novices can learn phrases that will impress even the most serious Riesling geek: "The TA on this baby is so high you can't even feel the RS."
Fun and obscure Riesling factoids are peppered throughout the more serious stuff - suggestions for Top 10 movies to enjoy with Riesling, anyone? There are even a few recipes for Riesling cocktails.
True wine aficionados who know a lot about Riesling may discover some new tidbits, such as the must weights (in both Oechsle and Brix) of German Riesling harvest categories and a list of selected Alsatian Grand Cru Vineyards along with their village, acreage and key producers.
This free information-packed 40-page booklet just about fits into a jacket pocket and would make a great stocking stuffer, but why wait until then? Available while supplies last at RieslingRules.com.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/11/07/WIOM13UO6C.DTL
This article appeared on page F - 2 of the San Francisco Chronicle
--
------------------------------
* Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
