win October 2008

win@thebarn.com

6 participants
16 discussions

by Jim L. Ellingson

Perhaps Cabana Boy needs to read up on these. Original gin: Older styles find their way back into cocktails Friday, October 31, 2008 Bols Genever Hayman's Old Tom Citadelle Reserve Most brands of gin on the market fall into one of two camps: juniper-forward London dry; or lighter, floral and citrusy gins. But the gin we read about in pre-Prohibition cocktail books is usually neither of these styles. Bartenders and consumers interested in classic and authentic versions of cocktails have lobbied foreign brands and U.S. importers to bring older gin styles to the local market. Their efforts have succeeded. Several new types of gin predating those of today by a few hundred years have just become available, allowing us to better understand the original version of famous drinks - and to create some new ones. Genever History: Genever, a Dutch invention often credited to professor and chemist Sylvius de Bouve in the 16th century, is not actually a style of gin but its precursor. It is a combination of malt wine, a flavorful distilled grain product, plus juniper and other herbs, and neutral grain spirit. In the earliest American cocktail guides, genever was largely referred to as "Holland gin." A genever in Holland can be further classified as jonge, oude or korenwijn, in order of increasing amount of malt wine in the mix. Some genevers are aged, but this is independent of the jonge and oude labels. These distinguish the newer and older styles of genever. Revival: Bols, a Dutch company making genever for hundreds of years, launched an unaged, high malt wine-content genever in San Francisco and New York this month. Other imported brands on the market include Boomsma and Zuidam. Zuidam offers a jonge genever already and is launching an aged oude genever in the next few months. Potrero Hill-based Anchor Distilling (Anchor Steam Beer, Junipero Gin) makes an all pot-distilled genever-style product called Genevieve. Flavor: "Genever is essentially flavored whiskey. London dry is essentially flavored vodka," says drink historian David Wondrich. The malty quality of genever and the resulting creamy mouthfeel and sweetness are very different from today's gins. Use: Genever is not usually a good substitution for London dry gin in cocktails, and it doesn't mix with tonic water at all. Try it in classics like the Holland House or the Improved Holland Gin Cocktail, or use it in place of whiskey in an old-fashioned. Old Tom History: Dutchman William of Orange became the King of England in the late 1600s and brought with him a host of import laws and tariffs that made genever a discount beverage. "Genever" was shortened to "gin" and a new style made by locals came about: old tom. The term is believed to come from the black cat sign that adorned gin dispensaries throughout London in that era. Revival: Hayman's old tom gin arrived in San Francisco this month. Boord's old tom gin is available at some shops, but is looked down upon by many cocktail enthusiasts. Another brand based out of Oregon, Ransom old tom gin, should be released next year, according to distillery founder Tad Seestedt. He says it will be a combination of malted grain spirits and neutral spirits, slightly aged to approximate barrel shipping and storage conditions of old. Flavor: Distillation techniques were crude back then, so old tom gin was sweetened as well as flavored with botanicals to mask the poor-quality spirit. Importer of Hayman's old tom gin Eric Seed says, "It has the richness of mouthfeel you get with genever. Old toms tend to be very well rounded in flavor profile, whereas London dry style tends to be more sharp and angular." Seed says the lightly sweetened Hayman's is similar to a lightly sweetened London dry gin, but more botanically intensive to stand up to strong flavors such as sweet vermouth and maraschino in the Martinez cocktail. Use: Over the years there were many different recipes for old tom, Seed says, ranging from all pot-distilled gins closer to genever to all column-distilled gins closer to London dry. Until American Prohibition, old tom gin was used in many cocktails, including the Martinez, Tom Collins and Ramos gin fizz. Aged Gin History: Like all beer, wine and spirits of old, gin was once stored and shipped in the barrel instead of the bottle. The liquid that was previously held in the barrel would influence the new one. Scotch whisky distillers have kept the tradition alive (and reinvigorated it) by using former bourbon, brandy, sherry and other used barrels for aging. Several genevers in Holland and the forthcoming Ransom old tom gin are aged. Revival: One aged modern-style gin (based on a 1771 recipe) is coming to market. Citadelle Reserve will launch in the United States in December or January as a limited edition bottling of Citadelle gin. It is made in France and aged for six months in used Cognac barrels, as the brand is owned by the same producer as Cognac Ferrand. Most of the bottles will go to Europe, with approximately 2,400 bottles for the United States. Flavor: The barrel aging softens the gin, and adds wood notes like vanilla to the modern gin flavor profile. The woody barrel aroma is present on the nose but not overpowering on the palate. The juniper is also far less present than in the regular Citadelle Gin. Use: As the product has not hit the market, most bartenders have not yet had to opportunity to add it to their menus. Brand co-founder Alexandre Gabriel says the Citadelle Reserve is good in a simple martini. The Kind Makes 1 drink By Jeff Hollinger and Jonny Raglin of Absinthe. * 4 to 5 leaves of fresh mint * 1 1/2 ounce Bols genever * 3/4 ounce green Chartreuse * 3/4 ounce Rothman & Winters Orchard Apricot Liqueur * -- Mint tip, for garnish Instructions: Muddle the mint leaves with a little cracked ice in a mixing glass until they are shredded into bits. (This ice is intended to act like "teeth" and help with the shredding of the mint, so small chunks are best.) Add the genever, Chartreuse and apricot liqueur and top with additional ice. Stir for 15 to 20 seconds, or until well chilled. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a chilled cocktail glass, and garnish with the mint tip. Tea Punch Makes 1 drink Created by Daniel Hyatt of the Alembic. * 2 ounces Hayman's old tom gin * 1 teaspoon honey * 1 teaspoon green tea * 1/2 ounce Ruby Red grapefruit juice * 1 dash absinthe * 1 inch-wide strip of grapefruit peel * -- Spring of fresh tarragon Instructions: In a mixing glass, add gin, honey, green tea, grapefruit juice and absinthe. Shake with ice and strain into wineglass filled with crushed ice. Squeeze grapefruit peel over drink and discard. Garnish with tarragon. - Camper English -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 1 month

[wine] Value Wines (SFGC)

by Jim L. Ellingson

OK, so when did a $20 Kabinett qualify as "VALUE". C, J Wines from around the world to help you stretch your dollar Jon BonnéLynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writers Friday, October 31, 2008 Great global value wines (from left): 2007 Corbera Vini I... With the election soon upon us, there is a lot of focus on domestic policy. But we can't stop thinking about foreign affairs. Such crucial questions as: What did Obama mean by Iran talks with no preconditions? Will McCain commit to a specific Iraq timetable? How can we possibly afford imported wine when the economy, and the dollar, are so weak? On that last, we have answers. For one, at about $1.30 to the euro, the battle-weary buck has had the sort of rally that suddenly puts the words "European vacation" back on the brain. But a combination of cost-efficient production, cheap shipping (usually by carbon-minimizing container ship) and a bit of currency leverage by savvy importers kept decent wine from around the world on shelves even in the dollar's worst doldrums. No question that prices have been going up, in particular on the 2006 vintage from Europe and some newly arrived 2007s, but even so, it's still easy to find lots to drink under $20 that keeps you on your geopolitical toes. Given the prices of many domestic wines these days, it's still a good time to think - and drink - globally. That goes doubly given how thin our wallets feel these days. Assuming that you don't want to dip into your (somewhat diminished) 401(k) to fund your holiday party, this also happens to be the time of year when many of us are thinking about what to buy by the case and what to serve at the next couple months' dinner parties. With that in mind, the goal was not merely to find "bargains" but to see how well we could drink on a budget given the needs of the season. We chose five regions overseas - and yes, Donald Rumsfeld would kvetch that we paid extra heed to "old Europe" (sorry, Don, that's where the old, cost-effective vineyards are) - with an eye on where we could find distinctive wines that were made to stand on their own, not merely a Chardonnay with a funny name. These are wines with a sense of place. Added bonus: With the dollar rebounding, prices for imports will likely stabilize, if not outright drop. What's a good value now could be an even better value by 2009. Chile Inexpensive, hearty red wines are widely available, but it may take time and several bottles to find a young Cabernet Sauvignon with varietal character, acidity, soft tannins and balance. Look to Chile, which is producing increasing amounts and better quality Cabernet every year. Carmenere - a lovely, food-friendly Chilean red - does not have the space on store shelves that Cabernet Sauvignon does. But most stores have multiple Chilean Cab bottlings. Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon had an upswing in the mid-1990s because of the shortage of U.S. Cabernet. During this period, Cab from Chile was average, but subsequently producers have dedicated more attention to its production and marketing. Chile's moderate, Mediterranean-like climate, and relative low cost of land and labor contribute to the reasonable production costs, which result in good consumer value. Besides well-established local wineries that pump out thousands of cases, well-known wineries based outside of Chile - including Lafite-Rothschild (Los Vascos), Augustin Huneeus (Veramonte) and Kendall-Jackson (Caliterra) - have seen the potential. Chances of scoring a very good bottle of Chilean Cabernet has improved - even for those priced $12 and less, though the quality can be a bit uneven with many showing some green herb, stem and more moderate weight than most California bottlings. If you can afford the $15-$20 range, there is a significant jump in quality and consistency, enough to warrant pouring at an upscale dinner. 2007 Apaltagua Reserva Apalto Valley Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon ($10) This doesn't scream Cabernet Sauvignon, but it is a nice wine with fruit, structure and balance. The dark fruit is backed by dried herb and stem that is occasionally present in some of the less expensive bottlings. Allow some time for this wine to breathe and find its fruit. Lightly grippy tannins are a plus. (Importer: Global Vineyard Importers) 2006 Casa Lapostolle Rapel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14) Alexandra Marnier Lapostolle - the great granddaughter of Grand Marnier's creator - ages this wine in small French oak barrels for 12 months. Fairly spicy, with hint of herb underneath the ripe, rather rich cherry, red plum and cassis that gets close to California-style weight and ripeness. (Importer: Marnier-Lapostolle) 2006 Cosino-Macul Valle del Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon ($11) Bright juicy dusty Bing cherry with loam and some aromatic intensity plus an underlying bit of stemminess. This lighter weight wine tastes of fruit and not just oak, though wood tannins provide structure enough for simple steaks and burgers. (Importer: Billington Importers) 2006 Hacienda Araucano Valle de Colchagua Cabernet Sauvignon ($13) From one of France's best-known wine families - the Lurtons - this solid wine shows a more modern side. Sweet subdued aromas of bramble fruit, raspberry, wisp of herb and hints of charcuterie. More textured palate with tart blackberry and glints of cassis against scant touch of stem and green wood. Food-friendly and great with a meatloaf sandwich. (Importer: Winesellers) Loire Valley Dry, crisp, versatile white wines can be enjoyed as an aperitif, with food or just because. France's Loire Valley produces wine from several white grape varieties that fit the bill: well-known Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, plus Melon de Bourgogne, which makes Muscadet. Muscadet, named for the region in which it's grown, remains in the shadow of its better-known cousins, Sancerre and Pouilly Fume (made from Sauvignon Blanc) and Vouvray (made from Chenin Blanc). Enjoyable, affordable, food-friendly dry white wine is always in vogue and Muscadet is a great value. The Loire Valley lies far north, where cool temperatures are at the lower end of the grape-ripening range. When grapes ripen here, they retain high acidity and lesser sugar levels that translate to lively, relatively low-alcohol wines. Muscadet is the Loire's most-produced white. The best Muscadet subregion is Muscadet Sevre et Maine. Some bottlings are also labeled "sur lie." These wines have spent additional time in contact with yeast, which provides additional flavor and a finer texture. Minerality, occasional briny notes, lees, subtle tree fruit and lively acidity are hallmarks of Muscadet, making it a perfect wine for seafood. Stores that carry Muscadet usually offer only one or two from which to choose. These wine buyers usually choose carefully, so when you find a Muscadet, odds are that it will be a good one. 2006 Chateau de la Cantrie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie ($9) Deep aromas of waxy citrus peel, faint green pear and a kiss of proofing bread dough. Underlying grapefruit zest with a bit of pith, which accentuates the nicely textured finish. Rounder, richer and less acidic than the 2007 bottlings. Comparatively rich; straightforward, quaffable and a good value. (Importer: Grape Expectations) 2007 Domaine de la Louvetrie Hermine d'Or Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($15) Vigneron Jo Landron's nervy young wine has delicate stony mineral notes and mild lees backed with citrus blossom, sweet Meyer lemon and slightly riper fruit than usual. Similar flavors; lively and dry, with very tart acidity and an occasional zinc note on the finish. (Importer: K&L Wine Merchants/Latitude Wines) 2007 Domaine de la Pepiere Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($13) Bright and clean with faint nose of unripe apple, green gooseberry and light yeastiness. More engaging palate offers lemon and mineral flavors; crisp and bracing with slight lemon peel on the long finish. From vigneron Marc Olivier. (Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections/LCM Wines) 2006 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sevre de Maine Sur Lie ($12) Briny aromas with chalk and a whiff of salt air introduce subtle pear-like fruit and herb hints. More complex in the mouth - dark wet stone, mineral and citrus tending to pink grapefruit. Mild and minerally with classic Muscadet austerity. (Importer: Robert Kacher Selections) Germany Explain this, Sherlock: The dollar's in the tank, and yet we go up against Europe's largest economy and can still get excellent site-driven German wines for under $20. You'd almost have to conclude that Germany really, really wants us to try their wine. And this isn't just Riesling, though the long-awaited upswing in Americans' Riesling interest (yes, sommeliers, we finally listened to you) has certainly helped. Instead of a punch line, German Pinot Noir is now a savvy buy, thanks in part to some overambitious pricing from our homegrown counterparts. Restaurants offer St. Laurent (like a darker-skinned Pinot) from the Pfalz by the glass. Granted, it has gotten harder to locate true Einzellage (single-vineyard) bottlings for under $20, but they can be found, even from the beloved 2007 vintage. With a string of at least four solid vintages, there's no shortage of good site-specific Riesling. And there are no shortage of basic (Qualitatswein) bottling from great producers, some in 1-liter bottles for an extra-good deal. Keep an extra eye out for the '07s. If they lack the overabundant ripeness of 2005, slow-ripening fruit from one of the longest vintages on record is yielding pretty, lean, high-acid wines that will age - even for a Kabinett - for a good decade or so, should that be your thing. And with the dollar slowly getting stronger, and German wines being somewhat immune to the vintage-pricing frenzy that has hobbled Bordeaux, prices only stand to get better. 2007 Erben von Beulwitz Kaseler Nies'chen Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($19) The wines of this Ruwer Valley producer are defined by their intense slate-driven mineral character. Here, that's matched by a silky profile, with aromas of fig and ripe apple amid the rigid mineral crunch. Delicate and just slightly nectar-tinged on the palate, with a lean, laser-like finish. Fabulous acidity. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines) 2007 Josef Leitz Rudesheimer Drachenstein Dragonstone Rheingau Riesling ($18) Johannes Leitz's workhorse Riesling from an excellent Rheingau parcel, packaged with a screwcap and consumer-friendly name, is in fantastic form, with a deep umami note and intensely high acid. Lean, citrus-driven, tangy and spot-on. (Importer: Terry Theise/Michael Skurnik Wines) 2006 G.A. Schneider Kalinda Niersteiner Rheinhessen Riesling ($13) Refreshing, straightforward, mostly dry style, with taut acidity and lots of citrus. (Importer: Winesellers) 2006 Wegeler Wehlener Sonnenuhr Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($17) A proper focused Kabinett style from one of Germany's most revered vineyards, a smoky, stony nose is bolstered by a lot of lime zest, ripe golden apple and slightly tart peach and nectar fruit. Tree fruit wraps around a flinty mineral note, with a bit more roundness on the finish. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines) 2007 Joseph Rosch Leiwener Klostergarten Mosel Kabinett Riesling ($16.75) Werner Rosch's wines have that sugar-driven softness that soothes the palates of the acid-shy. This one's spicy, with nutmeg and allspice atop soft peach, green apple and grapefruit. Upfront and refreshing, with an overt sweetness. (Importer: Dee Vine Wines) Sicily Sicily's potential for great everyday reds remains one of the worst kept secrets in wine. I refer not to the incursion of the usual international grapes - Merlot in particular - but to modern takes on the island's indigenous grapes. That largely means Nero d'Avola, plus the more robust Nerello Mascalese, a sort of country cousin whose worn shoes are balanced by an innate rustic charm. (They're accompanied by excellent native whites from varieties like Inzolia and Grillo.) Nero d'Avola is a hard grape to pin down. The comparison is often to Syrah, but that seems facile. Nero d'Avola is far more about earthy, tarry aromatics, with lots of darker fruit. Its non-fruit intensity can scare even Italian wine fans, but there's no cause for fear; versions under $20 tend to put the fruit first. (That's an appropriate price cap for all but a small handful of Sicilian reds. You should be able to drink quite well from there for $15 or less.) Though often blended with mellower grapes, 100 percent Nero d'Avola remains a terrific bet. Be sure to ask about the style. Some we tasted could have passed for Zinfandel; others for Beaujolais. Nerello Mascalese is a bit tougher, in the way that Mourvedre is a difficult sell for all but devoted Rhone-o-philes. But if the profile is leathery and thick-necked, it fits the same niche as, say, Petite Sirah (but without the hammerhead tannins). Earthy and ripe but with terrific brightness for balance, its robust appeal should certainly draw fans of a gloves-off style of wine. In either case, these wines stint on neither fruit nor earth-tinged nuance - and usually manage it without a helping hand from oak. 2007 Corbera Vini Isola d'Oro Sicilia Nerello Mascalese ($10) Leathery, cayenne, fennel, stewed strawberry and dry, earthy grip define a profile that's heady, pungent and dark, reminiscent of Mourvedre or even Tannat. (Importer: Oliver McCrum Wines) 2006 Donnafugata Sedara Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($13) One of Sicily's most prolific wineries (with 2.5 million bottles) offers up this beautifully balanced, brooding effort. Distinctly earthy, with moist soil, dark cherry and a charred branch aroma. Equally dark on the palate, with blackberry, moss and a modest grip. (Importer: Folio Wine Partners) 2005 Feudi del Pisciotto Baglio del Sole Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($15) Made all in steel, it's leathery, with polished cherry and red fruit, and a tight-knit minerality guiding the broad structure. Bark-like tannins give a Cab-worthy mouthfeel, though with brighter fruit. (Importer: Vias Imports) 2007 Valle dell'Acate Poggio Budini Sicilia Nero d'Avola ($13) A light touch. Balsam, sweet cherry and a slight waxiness mix with tangy berry and a juicy core. Almost Beaujolais-like in its crisp profile, with a warm fruit presence at the finish. (Importer: Vinity Wine Company) Spain The busy new era of Spanish reds has given almost every region of that country an enological shot in the arm. Relatively cheap labor and a wave of modern winemaking, plus a mix of old-vine native grapes and the usual suspects - Syrah, Cabernet - have turned Spain into ground zero for big, dramatic wines that deliver amazing flavor per dollar. Most of the action lies far afield from Rioja and Ribera del Duero, and even fashionable Priorat - though winemaking in those regions is virtually unrecognizable from two decades ago. New regions like Calatayud, Montsant (created in 2001), Bierzo and Terra Alta, plus media darlings like Toro have tapped into a similar formula and, as a final step, overhauled their looks with some of the most charismatic labels in wine. And a handful of price-conscious American importers (Jorge Ordonez, Eric Solomon) have helped forge a steady market. That has allowed Spain to partly claim the mantle for bold reds from, say, Australian Shiraz, though the harnessing of native grapes like Mencia (Bierzo) and hearty Mediterranean varieties like Garnacha (Grenache) and Mazuelo (Carignan) tends to lend extra nuance to less-expensive bottlings. While Spanish regions like Priorat have been dominating popularity contests against oak-driven New World power bombs, the under-$20 realm is where some of the most interesting wines have emerged, offering the sort of earth-driven quality that used to attract lovers of Rhone wines. 2007 Cellers Can Blau Montsant Red Wine ($17) A blend of Mazuelo, Syrah and Garnacha. Subtle wood aromas mix with quartz-like mineral, black pepper, strawberry and leathery blue fruit. The palate is compelling, guided by lifted minerals, with a grippy, well-defined ending. (Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections/Henry Wine Group) 2006 Bodega y Vinedos Artazu Artazuri Navarra Red Wine ($11) All Garnacha, from one of the most consistently fine projects in Navarra (just northeast of Rioja) run by the head of Rioja's Artadi estate. Deep, smoky strawberry, mineral and a sweet vanilla presence on the nose. A mineral core is rounded out by tart plum, boysenberry and brawny tannins on the finish. (Importer: Eric Solomon/European Cellars) 2006 Luna Beberide Bierzo Mencia ($13) An amazing value for the price. The textbook aromas of Mencia - raw, almost bloody meat, curing spice, bacon and roasted plum - leap out. They move to refined blue fruit and fine mineral tones, making for a bright, juicy palate with innate balance and soft-edged grip. (Importer: Grapes of Spain) 2006 Bodegas Luzon Jumilla Red Wine ($10) Monastrell (Mourvedre) and Syrah, unoaked and from a somewhat lighter vintage in this southeastern region. But still plenty meaty and leathery, bolstered with red fruit and a purple-flower highlight, with a salty note on the palate. Almost rigid in its mineral structure, but with plush blackberry fruit to round it out. (Importer: Jorge Ordonez Selections/Henry Wine Group) E-mail Jon Bonnét jbonne(a)sfchronicle.com and Lynne Char Bennett at lbennett(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/31/WIB213QLJO.DTL This article appeared on page F - 1 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 1 month

[wine] Food Wine Pairing (WPost)

by Jim L. Ellingson

Big Flavors Need Big Wines By Karen Page and Andrew Dornenburg Wednesday, October 29, 2008; F05 "Loud" flavors -- hot, spicy and/or acidic -- can be tricky to pair with wine. There's no faster way to obliterate the nuances of a wine than to serve it with a dish whose flavors will jump out and make those subtleties disappear. Still, there's no reason to let such potential peril spook you. Here are some guidelines to make the matches work. Heat The palate falsely perceives the sharpness of piquancy as "hot," so it's natural to seek cooling relief. As a rule, avoid wines that are high in alcohol, oak and tannin, which can either clash or just fan the flames. For the best pairing, consider the specific ingredient: Fresh chili peppers: As a general rule, the fresh vegetal flavors of chilies are a better match with white wines than with reds. With dishes featuring jalapeñ New World sauvignon blancs tend to pair best; both herbaceous and grapefruit-driven styles are useful in pairing with similarly flavored dishes. When fresh chilies are served as part of Thai curries, which often feature sweet coconut milk and spicy ginger, we prefer off-dry, spicy and aromatic whites, most often Riesling. Dried chili peppers: Their smoky earthiness tends to go better with red wines. The combination of red wine and scallops may seem frightening, but that proved to be one of our favorite pairings of the year when we visited Janos Restaurant in Tucson in March. Chef-owner Janos Wilder matched seared diver sea scallops with Spanish chorizo, chipotle Muscat sauce and candied orange zest with a fruity Spanish red: a pinot noir-like 2005 Las Rocas de San Alejandro El Renegado Garnacha ($10 at MacArthur Beverages). With its own hint of smoke, it perfectly mirrored the smoky notes of the dish. Brian Cook, wine director at Redwood in Bethesda, serves a fruity wine with the restaurant's mildly spicy braised short-rib chili seasoned with ancho chilies. Among the possibilities are a pinot noir, such as Serenity Pinor Noir from California's Central Coast, and a fuller-bodied shiraz with mild tannins, such as Cat Amongst the Pigeons Nine Lives Shiraz from Australia's Barossa Valley. Horseradish: The choice depends on the dish, of course, but we lean toward bubbles. A non-vintage champagne or roséhampagne will help cleanse the palate. Other high-acid wines work well, too, and with a horseradish-based shrimp cocktail, we've had the best luck pairing with New Zealand sauvignon blanc. If you're the one cooking, add cream to horseradish to make it more wine-friendly. We love the combination of a rare steak with horseradish cream sauce and a fruity, low-tannin merlot. Hot mustard: This condiment is not only hot but acidic, so make sure the wine has its own acidity to stand up to the food. Mustard is a natural with sausages: With white-meat sausages think white wine (Riesling or unoaked chardonnay); with red-meat sausages think fruity reds (such as Beaujolais, pinot noir or zinfandel). Wasabi: Because William Washington, manager of Blue Duck Tavern in the West End, likes to pair to a dish's region of origin, foods with fiery wasabi notes lead him to Japanese rice wine. His first thought when pairing wasabi-accented sushi, or even a miso-and-wasabi-crusted piece of salmon, is sake. Although we love sake at least as much as the next oenophile, roséhampagne is another delicious way to go with that wasabi-crusted salmon. A pinot noir-based sparkler will complement the fish, and the bubbles will help cleanse the palate of the wasabi's bite. Spice When the perceived heat on the palate is the result of actual spiciness -- as in Indian cuisine, for example -- remember that the root of the word "Gewuerztraminer" is "spice." Indeed, the fruitiness, spice and hint of sweetness in Gewuerztraminer and similar varietals such as off-dry Riesling play beautifully against the spice of aromatic Indian dishes. We'd steer red wine lovers toward a fruity zinfandel. Acidity Dishes high in acidity, whether from citrus or vinegar, can be overpowering. So remember the maxim "acid loves acid," and pair high-acid foods with high-acid wines. For example, we've enjoyed seviche with a virtual around-the-world tour of high-acid whites, from champagne to New Zealand sauvignon blanc to Trocken Riesling to Spanish albariñ Every one of those matches was, if you'll pardon the Halloween pun, bewitching. Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, authors of "The Flavor Bible" and "What to Drink With What You Eat," can be reached through their Web site, http://www.becomingachef.com, or at food(a)washpost.com. Their Pairings column appears the last Wednesday of the month. Tips: Try A Tasting Wednesday, October 29, 2008; F05 If you're gathering friends for Halloween anyway, it's the perfect opportunity to organize a wine tasting that can teach you about the ways in which wines interact with powerfully flavored foods. Pair chips and a picante salsa with a few wines: for instance, a Riesling, a sauvignon blanc and an oaked chardonnay. Taste each against the salsa, and see if the wine's effect is cooling, complementary or exacerbating. Or pick up some wasabi peas, and taste them against a big, high-alcohol, tannic red, such as a cabernet sauvignon (which turns up the volume on the heat levels), vs. an off-dry, lower-alcohol Riesling (which is likely to tame the flames). -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 1 month

[wine] [Bruce.Adomeit@startribune.com: Wine quote of the month]

by Jim L. Ellingson

Hi Wayne, Oddly enough, this reminded me of you. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from "Adomeit, Bruce" <Bruce.Adomeit(a)startribune.com> ----- X-AuditID: 84944b43-a476aba000000f34-0a-49025762be74 From: "Adomeit, Bruce" <Bruce.Adomeit(a)startribune.com> "'Stich, Louise'" <louise.stich(a)mci.com>, "'Ellingson, Jim'" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>, 'Rex' <filstrup(a)ssesco.com>, Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 18:16:50 -0500 Subject: Wine quote of the month Thread-Topic: Wine quote of the month Thread-Index: Ack2LphatHfuLdTFSXKU6hJXg9gO+Q== "Investment? We make the wine to drink. It's zinfandel, just drink it!'' --- Ehren Jordan, winemaker, Turley Wine Cellars, Templeton, Calif. And a bonus quote from Jordan, who's been with Turley since 1994: "We feel in general that Cabernet people drink the label, and Zin lovers drink the wine." ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 1 month

[wine] S. Cent Coast Pinot (fwd), barley stew

by Jim L. Ellingson

South Central Coast Pinot Noir Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer Friday, October 24, 2008 The South Central Coast, which stretches from San Luis Obispo County to Santa Barbara County, has growers who farm many different grape varieties, including Pinot Noir. Vineyard sites with ocean winds that temper warm days benefit this persnickety cool-climate grape. About 80 percent of the 70 wines in the tasting were from Santa Barbara County appellations, which include the Santa Maria Valley, Santa Ynez Valley and Sta. Rita Hills. The 2006 vintage - which coincidentally also comprised 80 percentage of the tasting - had a late, wet start but the grapes matured nicely without becoming overripe so the wines maintain varietal cherry character and moderate body. Our South Central Coast Pinot Noir recommendations generally have good acidity, tend toward red fruit and have varying amounts of oak with mostly minimal tannins. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Alma Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($38) Aromas take some time to show. Savory musk, soy, loam, mint and radiant red cherry on the nose are more evident on the palate, which has tangerine and raspberry highlights. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Alma Rosa La Encantada Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($49) Nose of spice, graham cracker and damp loam with stewy, dried fruit. Rich black fruit flavors backed by oak, which adds significant structure; palate retains its brightness and balance. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Cambria Bench Break Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($30) Red raspberry, plum, spice and creamy oak nose; the mineral-tinged palate shows a bit more fruit that has to compete with the oak. Extracted but a touch hard on the finish. One taster thought the oak overdone. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Cambria Julia's Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($21) Earthy loam, ripe cherry and pepper aromas follow an initial floral perfume. Similar flavors plus a savory edge and hint of leather on this lifted, delicately styled bottling. Balanced but perhaps fades a bit on the finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Daniel Gehrs Limited Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($44) Nose offers loam, bright blueberry and tart black cherry. Rich red fruit, sweet raspberry and touch of orange and green herb converge on the palate, which has a savory, leathery edge. Finishes with a tart twang. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Derby Wine Estates Derbyshire Vineyard Central Coast San Simeon Pinot Noir ($42) Sour cherry, violet and mineral aromas in this somewhat lean, very tart wine that nevertheless has some warmth to its cranberry and raspberry fruit. Strawberry leaf, grippy tannins and a tight, focused finish. Winery only. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Fess Parker Ashley's Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($55) Spicy, darker fruit nose with palate that has a rich middle, some brightness and lots of structural tannins but retains its balance. Better with medium-rare red meat and a few more years. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Fess Parker Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($55) Bright cherry, pencil lead, touch of cola and evident oak on nose. Big in style, nicely extracted. Grippy tannins linger on the tart finish, which one taster thought a touch acrid. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Firestone Vineyard Rancho Santa Rosa Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($36) Layers of earth and mineral combine with soft floral and dark berry fruit. Palate has up-front loam with slightly jammy strawberry and Bing cherry beneath. Lively mineral nuance on finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Gainey Vineyard Limited Selection Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($48) Loamy, earthy nose with more fruit on the palate; a distinct sweet spot reminiscent of sweet cherry pie filling is reined in by a rhubarb-like tartness. Plenty of oak, structure and extract in a lighter-style wine. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Garey Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Subtle rose perfume wraps around the more concentrated strawberry, blackberry nose that also has sassafras and nice toasty oak. Darker fruit flavors with white mineral and a subtle grip from fine-grained tannins. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Santa Maria Cuvee Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($26) Nose starts with a floral note then moves to tart cherry and cranberry fruit with a hint of moss. Bright, acidic palate has broad tannins and a sweet fruit on finish. Lighter weight but very food-friendly. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Kenneth Volk Vineyards Sierra Madre Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($36) This wine is richer, fuller-bodied and riper than its more slender sister. Black fruit, spice, light soy sauce and earth flavors with ripe but not overly ripe fruit. One panelist thought it a bit wound and tight now. Rating: TWO STARS 2007 Queen of Hearts Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($14) Juicy cherry and raspberry aromas with flavors of tart cranberry and oaky vanilla. Lighter weight and softer, but one taster thought it underfruited and raisined. Winery only. Rating: THREE STARS 2006 Rusack Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($36) Layered, complex nose of lovely ripe berry highlighted with loam and the barest hint of barnyard. Deep, rich palate supports the aromas; very well balanced with good structure and lengthy finish. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Rusack Reserve Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($40) Notes of coffee mocha and bright, high-toned black cherry aromas with whispers of herb and smoky bacon. Somewhat less weighty palate, which offers similar flavors and well-incorporated oak. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Sea Smoke Southing Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($50) A subtle nose that shows a fair amount of pretty oak and loam that echoes on the smooth, supple palate; ripe, bright black cherry provides support but it finishes a tad dry. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Sea Smoke Ten Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($80) Lovely combination of fruit and earth that is layered and deep but still subtle. Ripe, rich and sweet with blackberry, black cherry and expensive oak; citrus hint on the nicely textured finish. A glossy, showy, mouth-filling wine. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Talley Vineyards Stone Corral Vineyard Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($50) Sawdust, blackberry and boysenberry on the subdued nose, which leads to a palate with plenty of oak that wraps around ripe but restrained fruit. A bigger, oakier style. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Taz Santa Barbara County Pinot Noir ($25) Nose of high-toned cranberry, Bing cherry, dry loam and hint of pencil lead; similar flavors on the palate that also shows some spice and brightness. Lovely balance. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Taz Fiddlestix Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($35) Meaty, jammy, ripe berry aromas with vanillin, baking spice and soft oak notes. Rich and extracted but the weighty berry pie filling has a tussle with some alcohol on the finish, which also has a nice lemon zest brightness. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Taz Cuyama River Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($28) Bright aromas of very ripe, juicy fruit, vanilla cream highlighted with Bing cherry and an oaky depth. More tart cranberry and raspberry on the focused palate, which has a knotted mineral presence. May improve with a few more years. Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Testarossa Bien Nacido Vineyard Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir ($56) Dark juicy berry, violet and floral aromas with touch of coconut and oak. Big and deep with some pretty ruby cherry fruit flavors. Tart, focused finish. Winery only. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Testarossa Sanford and Benedict Vineyard Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir ($56) Spice and pepper undertones to the ruby red fruit, which has a touch of savory herb. Slight boysenberry profile on the palate. Lighter style with food-friendly acidity; drink soon. Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Tolosa Marley Anne Edna Valley Pinot Noir ($48) Leather, blueberry and black fruit aromas emerge with some air; plum and blackberry fruit lend a tart, bright edge, which underscores the nice tannic structure. Oaky wood tannins linger on the finish. Winery only. Panelists include: Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle staff writer and wine coordinator; Jon BonnéChronicle wine editor; Frank Klein, owner, Fish and Farm restaurant. For additional recommended wines, go to sfgate.com/wine. Key: Rating: FOUR STARS Extraordinary Rating: THREE STARS Excellent Rating: TWO STARS Good http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/24/WIF913EBLO.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle Pairings: Barley stew echoes earth in Pinot Noir Joyce Goldstein, Special to The Chronicle Friday, October 24, 2008 Flavors of fall in an Italian-style Barley Stew with Bean... As October's weather changes from Indian summer to fall, so, too, my food musings turn to more comforting fare, which, to me, often means Italy. I find myself gravitating to Friuli because many fine wines are cultivated in this region, among them the elegant Pinot Nero, the Italian version of our Pinot Noir. When I tasted some of this week's recommended South Central Coast Pinot Noirs, a savory stew of barley, mushrooms and sausage came to mind. Friuli-Venezia Giulia is in the northeastern corner of Italy. It is the home of prosciutto di San Daniele, cured and smoked meats and sausages, and Montasio cheese. The region also has a superb repertoire of recipes made with orzo - though it's not the seed-shaped pasta we call orzo. In Italian, barley is called orzo perlato; the whole barley grain has been lightly pearled so it cooks faster and more easily. I sometimes order barley and black barley from Kalustyan's in New York because they have a wide selection of unusual varieties. But do not let my grain mania intimidate you. You can use plain old-fashioned pearl barley from the supermarket and be very, very happy with this dish. And if you are a fan of farro, you may use it in place of barley; it is a close relation and has a similar genetic makeup. Unlike wheat berries, spelt and bulgur, barley is much lighter on the palate and stomach, and is nuttier and sweeter too. This recipe is quite flexible; you can prepare it as a stew or add more broth and turn it into a soup. Keeping the light and fruity characteristics of the wine in mind, you don't want to overload this dish with too many flavors or make it too dense, or the wines will suffer. Fall is the season of wild mushrooms and both this dish and many Pinot Noirs are noteworthy for their earthy and savory character and compatible with the mushroom's earthy flavors. If your market has chanterelles, fresh porcini, hen of the woods or lobster mushrooms, by all means use them. If not, simple brown cremini work well. An infusion of soaked dried porcini, along with their soaking liquids, wouldn't hurt either. Pinot Noir's level of acidity offers a fine contrast to the meaty characteristics of the stew and the heartiness of the grain. The light smokiness of the bacon is a fine echo to the wines' oak aspects. Barley Stew with Beans, Mushrooms & Sausage Serves 6 The recipe is very forgiving. If you did not cook the barley or beans long enough, simmer the stew longer, adding water or broth as needed. * 4 ounces dried white beans soaked overnight in water to cover * -- Kosher salt * 8 ounces pearl barley, soaked overnight in water to cover * 1 quart low-sodium chicken broth, or as needed * 2 tablespoons unsalted butter * 4 tablespoons olive oil * 1/3 pound assorted mushrooms, sliced * 1/2 pound fresh sweet pork sausage * 2 ounces bacon or pancetta, chopped * 1 large onion, chopped * 1 or 2 carrots, peeled and chopped * 1 rib celery, chopped * 2 cloves garlic, minced * 1 bay leaf * 3 sage leaves, chopped * 1 ounce dried porcini, soaked in hot water for 30 minutes * 1/4 pound diced prosciutto (optional) * -- Freshly ground black pepper * -- Chopped flat-leaf parsley (optional) * -- Montasio or Parmesan cheese, for grating (optional) Instructions: Drain the soaked beans, place in a small saucepan and cover with fresh cold water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and simmer the beans gently until tender, about 30 minutes. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt during the last 15 minutes. Drain and set aside. Transfer barley and its soaking water to another saucepan, add 2 cups of the chicken broth and 1 teaspoon salt and simmer until barley is tender but still has some chewiness. (Add more water if the barley absorbs all of the liquid and is still too firm.) This will take about 45 minutes or a bit longer. Set aside. Melt the butter along with a tablespoon of the oil in a saute pan over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and saute until tender, about 3 minutes. Set aside. Steam the sausage in another pan with a little water until cooked through. When cool enough to handle cut into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. (Cut them into smaller pieces if you are planning to serve this as a soup.) Remove to a plate and set aside. Heat remaining oil in a stew pot or large saute pan over medium heat. Saute the bacon along with the onion and carrots and celery for about 10 minutes or until onion is tender. Add garlic, herbs, beans, barley and any simmering liquid and remaining chicken broth and simmer for 10 minutes. Strain the porcini through a coffee filter, reserving the liquid. Chop the porcini. Add the mushrooms, porcini and their strained soaking liquids, the sausage and prosciutto, if using, and simmer for 10 minutes longer to blend the flavors. Add more liquid if needed. Season with pepper and salt to taste. Serve the stew in warmed bowls. Sprinkle with parsley and grated Montasio or Parmesan cheese if you like. Per serving: 463 calories, 19 g protein, 49 g carbohydrate, 22 g fat (6 g saturated), 29 mg cholesterol, 833 mg sodium, 11 g fiber. San Franciscan Joyce Goldstein is a restaurateur, consultant and cookbook author. E-mail her at wine(a)sfchronicle.com. http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2008/10/24/WIRE13G826.DTL This article appeared on page F - 4 of the San Francisco Chronicle -- ------------------------------ * Dr. James Ellingson, jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, mobile : 651/645-0753 * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

17 years, 1 month

[wine] My Bad

by l.ames＠juno.com

Sorry-Also Alicia and John were unavailable and I misspelled Karin's name! I need some oomlatte's in my keyboard! See you tomorrow. Lori _____________________________________________________________ Take a break - you deserve it. Click here to find a great vacation. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nJgx27RNexbMlO47k2AfP3Cu…

17 years, 1 month

[wine] Tratt on Thurs Oct. 23

by l.ames＠juno.com

OK-I think I have the right people for the event! Tomorrow at Trattoria Da Vinci the following are players: Lori Betsy Bill Melissa Jean/Ira Bob Warren/Ruth Dave T.(The Birthday Boy) Ted/Carmen Polite unavailables: Nicolai Russ/Sue Fred Louise Karen Jim on the fence WINE IS ANYTHING ITALY! Trattoria Da Vinci 400 Selby St. St. Paul, MN 55101 651-222-4050 See you all there! Lori _____________________________________________________________ Smart Vacation. Stay Longer, Pay Less! Click Here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3nJgxr5VPQWObs7NxNonmpDaw…

17 years, 1 month

[wine] Tratt on Thurs. Oct 23

by l.ames＠juno.com

So the latest update on participants is: Lori Bob Betsy Bill Melissa Ruth Warren Has anyone talked to Dave? Is he a go? See you all soon! Lori _____________________________________________________________________ A New Way to Get Free & Discounted Offers -- FreeInternet.com! Visit http://offers.juno.com/TGL1121/?u=http://www.freeinternet.com

17 years, 1 month

[wine] NYTimes.com: Next Week, Our Hero Chooses a Medoc

by betsy.kremser＠co.anoka.mn.us

This page was sent to you by: betsy.kremser(a)co.anoka.mn.us. DINING & WINE | October 22, 2008 Next Week, Our Hero Chooses a Medoc By NORIMITSU ONISHI A comic-book figure, the hero of the manga series "The Drops of the Gods," has quickly become the most influential voice in Asia's wine markets. http://www.nytimes.com/2008/10/22/dining/22comic.html?ei=5070&emc=eta1 ---------------------------------------------------------- ABOUT THIS E-MAIL This e-mail was sent to you by a friend through NYTimes.com's E-mail This Article service. For general information about NYTimes.com, write to help(a)nytimes.com. NYTimes.com 620 Eighth Avenue New York, NY 10018 Copyright 2008 The New York Times Company

17 years, 1 month

[wine] Thursday Dinner

by l.ames＠juno.com

So the Thursday group will meet again! Melissa is in town from Seattle and will join us for dinner. It is also Dave Tourand's Birthday. His previous request for dinner was Trattoria Da Vinci, so that is the choice this week. The wine will be anything Italy. Should be a hay day! Trattoria Da Vinci 400 Sibley St. St. Paul, MN 55101 651-222-4050 Pretty sure they are showing up: Lori Bill Melissa(and maybe friend Jean) Bob K. Betsy Dave T. Guesses: Jim/Louise Ruth/Warren Alicia Nicolai Would everyone please let me know by Wednesday if they are planning to show up so I can give the restaurant final numbers. See you all there! ____________________________________________________________ Click for free info on getting an MBA, $200K/ year potential. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3l7wX0SfkuWMZ1wmmPZWaR8ml…

17 years, 1 month

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