Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 20:50:12 -0600
From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu>
To: wine(a)thebarn.com
Subject: [wine] Italy, S. of Rome, at Arezzo
Greetings,
Auriga was very good.
Last I heard, we're doing "Italy, Sourth of Rome" at Arezzo.
Anyone know if Bob was able to make the reservation?
Bob has negotiated a $5 per person charge in
leu of corkage. Menu is on line. Wine list is not on line....
Prices are reasonable, w/ $10-12 pizza and most entrees (Primi) under $20.
>
> Who mostly confirmed
Bob
Lori
Betsy
Annette S
Russ
Warren/Ruth/Steve
Jim
Maybe (aka Team Proseco!)
Sue
Louise
Guesses (Team in-comunicado)
Bill
Janet
Karin
Nicolai
Arezzo Ristorante
612 285-7444
5057 France Ave S, Minneapolis, 55410
www.arezzo-ristorante.com
S. Italy.
Sardinia
Sicily
Salice
Campomarino
Augusthronicle's Top Bargain Wines of 2005
- W. Blake Gray, Leslie Sbrocco
Thursday, December 29, 2005
2002 Alamos Mendoza Malbec ($10)
Bodega Catena Zapata, which makes this wine, is one of the most prestigious wineries in Argentina. Laura Catena, vice president and a winemaker, is also an emergency room physician at UCSF Medical Center. There's no conflict between the jobs, because high-altitude Argentine Malbecs are said to be particularly high in resveratrol, a naturally occurring antioxidant in grapes that studies suggest helps prevent heart disease and cancer. Protect your heart while enjoying this juicy, full-bodied wine's intensity, complexity and quaffability.
Click to View
2002 A-Mano Puglia Primitivo ($10)
Primitivo is genetically identical to Zinfandel, though some believe it was imported to Italy from California, rather than making its way there from its birthplace in Croatia. In any case, this earthy yet fruity red from the Adriatic coast in southeastern Italy is made in a New World style by Mark Shannon, an American winemaker who now lives on "the boot."
2002 Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis ($10)
The Montsant wine region of Spain was created in 2001 when the larger Priorat region was broken in two; Montsant is shaped like a doughnut that encircles what is now called Priorat. The idea was to focus international attention on now-trendy Priorat wines, which have gone up in price. Accordingly, Montsant wines are like "second-growth Priorats," which can mean good value. This blend of mostly Grenache with Syrah is dense and layered, showcasing wild berry character tinged with smoky notes.
Click to View
2004 Covey Run Columbia Valley Riesling ($8)
Washington state's Covey Run Winery is one of about 27 quadrillion wineries now owned by Constellation Brands. Oddly, Covey Run is lumped by the company in the same subsidiary -- Canandaigua Wine -- with very low-end products including Manischewitz and Wild Irish Rose. This rich, sweet wine raises the standards of the portfolio with flavors and aromas of honey, ripe pear, Meyer lemon and white peach with strong floral accents. It's a good example of how delicious Washington Riesling can be.
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2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Dry Chenin Blanc ($10)
In 1991, California had more than 30,000 acres of Chenin Blanc, representing more than 17 percent of the state's white wine grapes, according to the California Agricultural Statistics Service. By 2004, total white wine grape plantings were up slightly, but Chenin Blanc had dropped under 12,000 acres because it lost favor in the industry. Most of that Chenin Blanc goes into jug wines, and few California wineries still produce it as a varietal. This wine shows why wineries shouldn't give up on it, with floral and ripe fruit notes that pair with zesty citrus flavors.
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2004 Falesco Vitiano Umbria Ros� ($8)
The Falesco wines are made by Riccardo Cotarella, Italy's most sought-after consulting winemaker, and his brother Renzo, general manger at the prestigious Marchesi Antinori winery in Tuscany. This wine is made by vinifying a portion of the juice that comes from quickly crushing the same grapes -- Merlot, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Aleatico -- that go into Falesco's red blend. Watermelon and strawberry aromas waft from the glass, and a spicy kick finishes each sip.
Click to View
2004 Geyser Peak California Sauvignon Blanc ($9)
The Australian-born leaders of Geyser Peak Winery's winemaking team have always believed in unoaked, crisp styles of white wine, even when big, creamy, oaky whites were all the rage in California. This bottling from the Geyserville winery is in the New Zealand style, with flavors of gooseberry, pineapple and a hint of Meyer lemon. It's only moderately grassy, with additional aromas of dried apricot and pineapple, and is delicious with practically any kind of food.
Click to View
2004 Heron California Chardonnay ($10)
Laely Heron's parents were hippies who traveled the world in a Volkswagen van, taking her to live in places including Algeria, Morocco, South Africa, Botswana, Thailand and Malaysia. She studied winemaking in France and began her winemaking career with a Merlot from France's Languedoc region that she still produces. But her winery, Heron Wines, is based in San Francisco, and most of her wines -- including this one -- are made from California fruit. Tropical aromas leap from the glass; the flavors are lemon, lemon marmalade, passion fruit and mango with a touch of vanilla on the medium-length finish.
Click to View
NV HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Noir ($9)
Don't wait to buy this wine. The brand was purchased in September by industry giant Constellation Brands, which changed winemakers. Because it's nonvintage -- which means grapes harvested in more than one year are blended -- it's not going to be possible to tell when the old regime's wine runs out and the new stock comes in. Ben Dollard, president of Constellation subsidiary Pacific Wine Partners, says the goal is to maintain quality while increasing production. Nonetheless, it was tempting to leave this wine off the list because of its uncertain future, but this year's release richly deserves the honor because it's a $9 wine that offers the soft fruit and complexity of a much more expensive Pinot Noir. Its aromas and flavors of cherry, cherry tobacco, red plum, tar, soy sauce and vanilla would merit a recommendation even if the wine cost three times as much. And it's named after a legendary 47-pound rooster, making it the heavyweight champ of this year's menagerie of critter wines.
Click to View
2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10)
There are probably more good bargain Shirazes on the market than any other red varietal, but they tend to be bold and simple rather than memorable. Moreover, bargain Syrah is often not easy to match with foods because of its big body and high alcohol. The 2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10) stands above its many peers because of its juicy, food-friendly fruit character and relatively restrained 13.5 percent alcohol. This is a delicious, complex wine, with flavors and aromas of ripe black currant, raspberry, black mission fig, earth and herbs. The tannins dry a bit on the medium-long finish. Jake, by the way, is supposed to be you, the consumer, according to the Allied Domecq Wines U.S.A. Web site. So if you don't love this wine, whose fault is it?
Click to View
2004 Kono Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
Kono is a food and beverage brand of Maori-owned Wakatu Inc. of Nelson, New Zealand. This wine takes advantage of the fact that the world center of great Sauvignon Blanc is now that country's Marlborough region. In its cool climate, the grape develops strong, pungent aromas and flavors of tropical fruit and fresh-mown grass that were shocking 20 years ago to fans of the more austere, mineral-driven wines made from Sauvignon Blanc in France's Loire region. Lately, those strong flavors have become the expectation, and sadly, few Sauvignon Blancs from Marlborough can be had for $10. That's what makes this wine such a find. Its strong aromas and tangy flavors of passion fruit, pineapple, fresh-cut grass, white peach and white pepper are pure Marlborough, and they linger on the medium-long finish.
Click to View
2003 The Magnificent Wine Co. Columbia Valley House Wine ($10)
Charles Smith of K Vintners in Walla Walla is one of Washington state's hottest and most eclectic vintners; one of his Syrahs, priced at $40, was chosen earlier this month as The Chronicle's favorite from the entire state. This down-to-earth blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc is packed with rich, dark fruit flavors. It's a successful attempt by Smith to make a wine that people can have every day without being bored -- in other words, a "house wine," hence the name.
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2003 Montevina Amador County Barbera ($10)
The Italian varietal Barbera is perhaps the most underappreciated grape in the United States. It's widely grown but often ends up anonymously providing backbone for jug wines. When bottled on its own, it can be an outstanding dinner-table wine that combines two likable characteristics not found together often enough: a big body and palate-cleansing, food-friendly acidity. This Barbera by Montevina offers flavors of bright cherry with some earth and cherry tobacco and will pair wonderfully with pasta, pizza, red meat, pork and practically anything prepared with an Italian accent. You may not appreciate how good it is until you wonder why the bottle emptied so quickly.
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2002 Parducci Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($8)
The proprietors of Mendocino Wine Co., which owns Parducci Wine Cellars, were chosen as Winemakers to Watch by The Chronicle in 2005 because of the promise of wines like this one. Parducci is a good steward of the environment -- the company is converting its vineyards to organic farming and uses recycled and treeless paper on its labels and biodiesel in its trucks. This wine shows the company's vines are well worth nurturing. Its complex aroma would fool most Pinot-philes into thinking it costs three times as much; its flavor is of tangy cherry with some strawberry and soy sauce and musky hints. It's pretty amazing to get a Pinot Noir this good for $8.
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2003 Pepperwood Grove California Cabernet Sauvignon ($8)
Napa-based negociant Don Sebastiani & Sons is the most anonymous of the 10 wineries chosen by The Chronicle in August as our Best Budget Brands. The company made 1.5 million cases of wine in 2004, but none carried the family name. But wines this good earn names for themselves. The vanilla aroma is strong, indicating lots of exposure to oak, with additional scents of cherry and leather. On the palate, it's nicely balanced between cherry and vanilla flavors with notes of black tea and leather; more cherry keeps coming out on the medium-long finish. Considering the prices many California Cabernets fetch these days, quality this high for $8 is phenomenal.
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2004 Raimat Costers del Segre Chardonnay ($8)
The Raimat brand comes from the Raventos family that owns the Codorniu line of sparkling wines in Spain and Artesa winery in Napa. Manuel Raventos bought infertile salt plains abandoned by farmers in this semi-desert region of northeast Spain in 1914. It took the family 50 years of planting cattle fodder, pine trees and cereals before the soil was ready to become the vineyard that produced this wine. No oak was used in this wine, so it's fruity and vibrant, yet it will appeal to lovers of all types of Chardonnay because it has a creamy character gained from aging on its lees (spent yeast cells).
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2003 Ruffino Libaio Toscana Chardonnay ($9)
Ruffino is most famous for its high-end wines from the Chianti Classico region. Chardonnay from Italy is hardly traditional, but this one is quite refreshing, fruit-driven and crisp, smelling of Asian pear and sweet apple. Though no oak is used, this Chardonnay has a creamy complexity that comes from letting the wine rest on the lees for one month. This adds a layer of flavor to the wine while maintaining vibrant acidity.
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2005 Simonsig Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc ($10)
When Americans think of Africa, we tend to imagine hot, dry plains. For Stellenbosch, one of South Africa's best wine regions, that couldn't be further from the truth. Ocean breezes bring the average summer temperature of this beautiful area below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. The cool weather helps give this wine its crisp character and juicy pear flavors, which are enhanced by mineral notes. Chenin Blanc has been South Africa's workhorse grape for many years, and this bottling shows why.
Click to View
2004 Walnut Crest Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc ($7)
This wine is shy about its homeland. You read Central Valley and think Fresno, but in this case it's a long valley running parallel to the Andes Mountains in Chile, just 50 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The country of origin is hidden in tiny type on the back label. Fortunately, this wine's aromas and flavors are the opposite of shy. Tangy pineapple and passion fruit jump from the glass, with notes of grass, apricot and white pepper. Sauvignon Blanc is still relatively rare in Chile, but this wine shows it has a bright future there.
Click to View
2004 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
Lake County, due north of Napa County, is a relatively new frontier for North Coast wineries, so its cachet isn't as high as Marlborough, New Zealand, and neither are prices for its wines. This wine, made in the Marlborough style, is fermented in stainless steel tanks to preserve its citrusy freshness, then blended with a dash of Semillon to add a bit of lushness.
Best 10 bargains: He said, she said
W. Blake Gray
Whites
2004 Covey Run Columbia Valley Riesling ($8)
2004 Geyser Peak California Sauvignon Blanc ($9)
2004 Heron California Chardonnay ($10)
2004 Kono Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
2004 Walnut Crest Central Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc ($7)
Reds
NV HRM Rex Goliath California Pinot Noir ($9)
2003 Jakes Fault California Shiraz ($10)
2003 Montevina Amador County Barbera ($10)
2002 Parducci Mendocino County Pinot Noir ($8)
2003 Pepperwood Grove California Cabernet Sauvignon ($8)
Best 10 bargains: He said, she said
Leslie Sbrocco
Whites
2004 Dry Creek Vineyard Clarksburg Dry Chenin Blanc ($10)
2004 Raimat Costers del Segre Chardonnay ($8)
2003 Ruffino Libaio Toscana Chardonnay ($9)
2005 Simonsig Stellenbosch Chenin Blanc ($10)
2004 Wildhurst Reserve Lake County Sauvignon Blanc ($10)
Ros�
2004 Falesco Vitiano Umbria Ros� ($8)
Reds
2002 Alamos Mendoza Malbec ($10)
2002 A-Mano Puglia Primitivo ($10)
2002 Capcanes Montsant Mas Donis ($10)
2003 The Magnificent Wine Co. Columbia Valley House Wine ($10)
Page F - 4
URL: http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2005/12/29/WIG99GE1IE1.DTL
Sicily: Flavors of an Island, Easy to Enjoy
By ERIC ASIMOV
IN the 19th century the nation of Italy was created by joining regions that had maintained uncomfortably separate political existences. Depending on which Italian you ask, the union may or may not have succeeded. For understanding Italian wines, though, it's fair to say it is a failure.
Too often, deep-seated regional differences among wines are lost as they are lumped together under the term Italian. While a love of wine and food may bind together Italians from Alto Adige in the north to those in Apulia in the south, the wines from each region are as different as the local grapes, soil, climate and culture. You may already know and love Amarones (from Veneto) or Chiantis (from Tuscany), but neither, as the Dining section's wine panel found out, will help you much in deciphering the wines of Sicily.
We approached our tasting of 25 Sicilian reds with great anticipation. Few wine regions have undergone as thorough a transformation as Sicily has in the last 20 years, and few are as unfamiliar. For Florence Fabricant and me, along with our guests, Howard Horvath, the wine director at Esca restaurant, and Scott Mayger, a consultant who worked most recently at Barbuto in the West Village, the tasting was a chance to reacquaint ourselves with a category that we find in restaurants all too rarely.
Even in ancient times, Sicily was known for producing vast quantities of wine. But in the last two decades the tanks of cheap blending wine have given way to wines that at their best are fruity and embraceable yet retain the character and personality of the island.
It's not easy for a region that has been making wines out of the spotlight for centuries to give up the old ways, but in wine zones like Faro in the northeast of Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria in the south and Contessa Entellina in the west, winemakers have modernized their farming techniques and improved their methods in the cellar. Occasionally, the urge to modernize has gone too far, and producers have eliminated their local grapes in favor of international varietals like cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. These are not necessarily bad wines. We all liked a 2001 merlot from Planeta, one of the biggest Sicilian producers. It was well made and enjoyable, but not a wine with much soul.
No, the most distinctive Sicilian wines continue to be made primarily with the traditional Sicilian grapes, most notably nero d'Avola, which makes deep, rich wines, and, to a far lesser degree, frappato, lighter and more aromatic, and nerello Mascarese, which is used primarily in the Faro zone. Some have speculated that nero d'Avola is related to syrah, and have even gone so far as to suggest that the name syrah was derived from the Sicilian city Siracusa. Perhaps, but that connection seems tenuous to me, even if one of the wines we liked best, the 2002 Morgante Don Antonio Riserva, which was made entirely of nero d'Avola, reminded me of an Australian shiraz, though one with enhanced acidity that cried out for tomato sauce.
When tasting a wide range of wines from an up-and-coming region like Sicily, you expect a fair share of clunkers. Although we did find a few bottles that tasted like assembly-line confections or of baked, over-ripe fruit, the overall quality was exceptional - "across-the-board drinkable," as Mr. Horvath put it.
Our favorite bottle was the 2000 Nerobufaleffj (neh-ro-boof-uh-LEFF-ee) from Gulfi, made entirely of nero d'Avola. Like most of these wines, it was easy to enjoy. The Gulfi and four other wines in our Top 10 carried the designation IGT, for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a term that gives government sanction to wines that meet less stringent rules regarding grape varieties or areas of production than required for wines that carry regional names, like Contessa Entellina or Faro.
Many forward-looking producers opt for IGT status rather than be bound by the regional rules. But sometimes those rules encourage experimentation. Our No. 2 wine, the graceful 2002 Tancredi from Donnafugata, meets the standards for the Contessa Entellina designation, even though it is an untraditional blend of 70 percent nero d'Avola and 30 percent cabernet sauvignon. That zone was created in 1993, when blending experiments were well under way. As a result, grapes as diverse as cabernet, syrah and pinot noir can be part of the mix.
Maybe the authorities were on to something, because the cabernet lends the Tancredi subtlety and an attractive cedary tinge. By contrast, Donnafugata's 2001 Mille e Una Notte, a big, inky, powerful wine that was No. 6 on our list, is 90 percent nero d'Avola and 10 percent other local grapes. It is also twice as expensive as the Tancredi.
The Donnafugatas were not the only example of price not quite correlating with quality. Our No. 3 wine, a 2001 Cerasuolo di Vittoria from Valle dell'Acate, was our best value at $19. This wine, which gains freshness from the blending of nero d'Avola with frappato, outperformed much more expensive wines, like our No. 4, a 2001 Faro from Palari for $58. Not that we didn't like the Palari - it was dense and spicy, but also oaky. Palari makes a second wine, Soprano, that sells for half the price of the Faro. I have long liked this wine, which is generally full of fruit and mineral flavors, but a 2000 Soprano in our tasting did not make the cut.
If Sicilian wines are going to succeed in making names for themselves, it will be because distinctive wines like the Gulfi, the Donnafugatas, the Palaris and the Valle dell'Acate force people to take notice. When they do, they will not imagine that these are great Italian wines. They will say, "These are great Sicilian wines," and that will be enough.
Tasting Report:
Big, Earthy and Rich With Fruit
Gulfi Nerobufaleffj IGT 2000 $38 ***
Big, balanced, earthy and concentrated; not complex but a pleasure to drink. (Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, N.Y.)
Donnafugata Tancredi Contessa Entellina 2002 $27
** �
Subtle and light-bodied, though with plenty of fruit and an herbal, cedary aroma. (William Grant & Sons, New York)
BEST VALUE
Valle dell'Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2001 $19 ** �
Full of bright, fresh fruit flavors and cherry and smoke aromas; easy to enjoy. (Panebianco, New York)
Palari Faro 2001 M $58 ** �
Dense fruit and chocolate aromas, well balanced but a little oaky. (Panebianco, New York)
Morgante Don Antonio Riserva IGT 2002 $30 **
Big and fruity, like a shiraz with great acidity. (Winebow, New York)
Donnafugata Mille e Una Notte Contessa Entellina 2001 $60 **
Inky black with big, rich flavors and plenty of acidity and tannins. (William Grant & Sons, New York)
Ceuso Scurati IGT 2003 $15 **
Big and brawny yet supple with balanced fruit and mineral flavors. (Vias Imports, New York)
Gladiator Nero d'Avola 2002 $10 **
Jammy fruit and earth aromas; slightly candied. (Testa Wines of the World, Port Washington, N.Y.)
Planeta Merlot IGT 2001 $38 **
Well-made and pleasing but lacks a sense of Sicily. (Vias Imports, New York)
Abbazia Santa Anastasia Litra IGT 1998 $50 **
Tannic, with international flavors. (Empson U.S.A., Alexandria, Va.)
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
----- End forwarded message -----
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Erte was very good.
Last I heard, we're doing "Italy, Sourth of Rome" at Arezzo.
Last I heard, we're doing Italian at Arezzo. Anyone know if
Bob was able to make the reservation?
Bob has negotiated a $5 per person charge in
leu of corkage. Menu is on line. Wine list is not on line....
Prices are reasonable, w/ $10-12 pizza and most entrees (Primi) under $20.
>
> Who mostly GUESSES
Bob
Lori
Betsy
Bill
Janet
Warren/Ruth/Steve
Russ/Sue
Jim/Louise
Karin
Nicolai
Arezzo Ristorante
612 285-7444
5057 France Ave S, Minneapolis, 55410
www.arezzo-ristorante.com
August 24, 2005
Sicily: Flavors of an Island, Easy to Enjoy
By ERIC ASIMOV
IN the 19th century the nation of Italy was created by joining regions that had maintained uncomfortably separate political existences. Depending on which Italian you ask, the union may or may not have succeeded. For understanding Italian wines, though, it's fair to say it is a failure.
Too often, deep-seated regional differences among wines are lost as they are lumped together under the term Italian. While a love of wine and food may bind together Italians from Alto Adige in the north to those in Apulia in the south, the wines from each region are as different as the local grapes, soil, climate and culture. You may already know and love Amarones (from Veneto) or Chiantis (from Tuscany), but neither, as the Dining section's wine panel found out, will help you much in deciphering the wines of Sicily.
We approached our tasting of 25 Sicilian reds with great anticipation. Few wine regions have undergone as thorough a transformation as Sicily has in the last 20 years, and few are as unfamiliar. For Florence Fabricant and me, along with our guests, Howard Horvath, the wine director at Esca restaurant, and Scott Mayger, a consultant who worked most recently at Barbuto in the West Village, the tasting was a chance to reacquaint ourselves with a category that we find in restaurants all too rarely.
Even in ancient times, Sicily was known for producing vast quantities of wine. But in the last two decades the tanks of cheap blending wine have given way to wines that at their best are fruity and embraceable yet retain the character and personality of the island.
It's not easy for a region that has been making wines out of the spotlight for centuries to give up the old ways, but in wine zones like Faro in the northeast of Sicily, Cerasuolo di Vittoria in the south and Contessa Entellina in the west, winemakers have modernized their farming techniques and improved their methods in the cellar. Occasionally, the urge to modernize has gone too far, and producers have eliminated their local grapes in favor of international varietals like cabernet sauvignon, merlot and syrah. These are not necessarily bad wines. We all liked a 2001 merlot from Planeta, one of the biggest Sicilian producers. It was well made and enjoyable, but not a wine with much soul.
No, the most distinctive Sicilian wines continue to be made primarily with the traditional Sicilian grapes, most notably nero d'Avola, which makes deep, rich wines, and, to a far lesser degree, frappato, lighter and more aromatic, and nerello Mascarese, which is used primarily in the Faro zone. Some have speculated that nero d'Avola is related to syrah, and have even gone so far as to suggest that the name syrah was derived from the Sicilian city Siracusa. Perhaps, but that connection seems tenuous to me, even if one of the wines we liked best, the 2002 Morgante Don Antonio Riserva, which was made entirely of nero d'Avola, reminded me of an Australian shiraz, though one with enhanced acidity that cried out for tomato sauce.
When tasting a wide range of wines from an up-and-coming region like Sicily, you expect a fair share of clunkers. Although we did find a few bottles that tasted like assembly-line confections or of baked, over-ripe fruit, the overall quality was exceptional - "across-the-board drinkable," as Mr. Horvath put it.
Our favorite bottle was the 2000 Nerobufaleffj (neh-ro-boof-uh-LEFF-ee) from Gulfi, made entirely of nero d'Avola. Like most of these wines, it was easy to enjoy. The Gulfi and four other wines in our Top 10 carried the designation IGT, for Indicazione Geografica Tipica, a term that gives government sanction to wines that meet less stringent rules regarding grape varieties or areas of production than required for wines that carry regional names, like Contessa Entellina or Faro.
Many forward-looking producers opt for IGT status rather than be bound by the regional rules. But sometimes those rules encourage experimentation. Our No. 2 wine, the graceful 2002 Tancredi from Donnafugata, meets the standards for the Contessa Entellina designation, even though it is an untraditional blend of 70 percent nero d'Avola and 30 percent cabernet sauvignon. That zone was created in 1993, when blending experiments were well under way. As a result, grapes as diverse as cabernet, syrah and pinot noir can be part of the mix.
Maybe the authorities were on to something, because the cabernet lends the Tancredi subtlety and an attractive cedary tinge. By contrast, Donnafugata's 2001 Mille e Una Notte, a big, inky, powerful wine that was No. 6 on our list, is 90 percent nero d'Avola and 10 percent other local grapes. It is also twice as expensive as the Tancredi.
The Donnafugatas were not the only example of price not quite correlating with quality. Our No. 3 wine, a 2001 Cerasuolo di Vittoria from Valle dell'Acate, was our best value at $19. This wine, which gains freshness from the blending of nero d'Avola with frappato, outperformed much more expensive wines, like our No. 4, a 2001 Faro from Palari for $58. Not that we didn't like the Palari - it was dense and spicy, but also oaky. Palari makes a second wine, Soprano, that sells for half the price of the Faro. I have long liked this wine, which is generally full of fruit and mineral flavors, but a 2000 Soprano in our tasting did not make the cut.
If Sicilian wines are going to succeed in making names for themselves, it will be because distinctive wines like the Gulfi, the Donnafugatas, the Palaris and the Valle dell'Acate force people to take notice. When they do, they will not imagine that these are great Italian wines. They will say, "These are great Sicilian wines," and that will be enough.
Tasting Report:
Big, Earthy and Rich With Fruit
Gulfi Nerobufaleffj IGT 2000 $38 ***
Big, balanced, earthy and concentrated; not complex but a pleasure to drink. (Importer: Selected Estates of Europe, Mamaroneck, N.Y.)
Donnafugata Tancredi Contessa Entellina 2002 $27
** �
Subtle and light-bodied, though with plenty of fruit and an herbal, cedary aroma. (William Grant & Sons, New York)
BEST VALUE
Valle dell'Acate Cerasuolo di Vittoria 2001 $19 ** �
Full of bright, fresh fruit flavors and cherry and smoke aromas; easy to enjoy. (Panebianco, New York)
Palari Faro 2001 M $58 ** �
Dense fruit and chocolate aromas, well balanced but a little oaky. (Panebianco, New York)
Morgante Don Antonio Riserva IGT 2002 $30 **
Big and fruity, like a shiraz with great acidity. (Winebow, New York)
Donnafugata Mille e Una Notte Contessa Entellina 2001 $60 **
Inky black with big, rich flavors and plenty of acidity and tannins. (William Grant & Sons, New York)
Ceuso Scurati IGT 2003 $15 **
Big and brawny yet supple with balanced fruit and mineral flavors. (Vias Imports, New York)
Gladiator Nero d'Avola 2002 $10 **
Jammy fruit and earth aromas; slightly candied. (Testa Wines of the World, Port Washington, N.Y.)
Planeta Merlot IGT 2001 $38 **
Well-made and pleasing but lacks a sense of Sicily. (Vias Imports, New York)
Abbazia Santa Anastasia Litra IGT 1998 $50 **
Tannic, with international flavors. (Empson U.S.A., Alexandria, Va.)
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
This week, Spanish wines at Auriga.
(Normally pronounced Are-eye-ga, but perhaps Oar-ree-Ga for our Spanish tasting.)
Sparkling(cava?)/white(alvarino)/ringer/dessert wines always welcome.
My guess is the turnout will be light.
So if you've been sitting on the sidelines, here's your chance.
Come join us for some interesting wine sampled with very good food.
Auriga Rest.
1930 Hennepin Ave, Mpls, 55403
612-871 -0777
Who: (mostly guesses)
Wine Pro Bob
Betsy
Bill
Jim
Nicolai
Annette S.
Dave T.
I'll be away from my desk much of day on Weds and off on Thursday.
I will check my e-mail periodically.
Alternately, give Bob a call. 612-672-0607
Cheers,
Jim
washingtonpost.com
Spain's Lighter Side
By Michael Franz
Wednesday, August 24, 2005; F05
The biggest story in wine during the past five years may be the remarkable resurgence of Spanish reds, which emerged from decades of underachievement to challenge the world's best bottlings. But big as this story may be, I confess that it could seem a bit beside the point in the swelter of a Washington summer, when you might well ask: Does Spain also have something great that is light, white and right for this tropical time of year?
I'd answer with a resounding yes. Encouraged by booming consumer interest in Spanish reds, importers are now bringing in Spain's finest whites in rapidly increasing numbers. As recently as three or four years ago, you'd likely have needed good luck and multiple trips to find a good albari�o or verdejo, but today they can be found in many retail shops and restaurants in our area.
Although the Spanish renaissance has only recently become a two-tone phenomenon here, whites have been improving steadily within Spain for decades. An influx of modern technology started the process, and demand for fine whites has also risen dramatically. Thanks to general prosperity and revolutionary improvements to the country's transportation system, sparkling seafood is now trucked into Spain's interior every day. Madrid is every bit as hot as Washington, and its food-savvy residents now show the same zeal for sipping albari�o with fresh clams that they've long shown for quaffing Rioja with cured ham.
Spain's leading whites are crafted from two grapes that are closely associated with specific growing regions: albari�o from Rias Baixas and verdejo from Rueda. Most renditions of both are bottled and released early to maximize their freshness, yet both show enough substance to stand up to moderately robust foods like crab or chicken. Lovely whites are also popping up from elsewhere across Spain, and every wine I've recommended below was chosen not only for general quality but also refreshment value -- in keeping with the season.
Recommended wines are listed in order of preference within categories below. Wines sourced from Rias Baixas and Rueda are grouped together, and regions of origin for wines in the "Best of the Rest" category are indicated in parentheses, as are approximate prices, importers and D.C. distributors:
RIAS BAIXAS
Lagar de Cervera Albari�o 2004 ($25, Europvin/Country Vintner in Virginia; National in the District): Pricey but undeniably superb, this benchmark bottling shows vivid peach fruit with lovely floral aromas and citrus acidity that enlivens the deep flavors. Complete and convincing, this is proof of albari�o's potential greatness.
Valmi�or Albari�o 2004 ($13, imported and distributed by Kysela): Tough to beat on performance and almost impossible to beat on price, this features fresh, expressive aromas, substantial fruit and excellent balancing acidity.
Palacio de Fefi�anes Albari�o 2004 ($17, Kysela): Always among the most delicate and intricate albari�os, Fefinanes is wonderful in 2004, with light body but plenty of flavor and nicely nuanced aromas.
Gran Vinum Albari�o 2003 ($24, Grapes of Spain/Elite Wines): The albari�o grape is capable of producing everything from light, fluffy quaffers to prodigiously powerful wines, and this impressive bottling is from the latter side of the spectrum. Deeply concentrated and very rich, it nevertheless maintains its balance.
Santiago Ruiz 2004 ($19, imported and distributed by Touton): This blend of albari�o, loureiro and treixadura is light, bright and flashy, with delicate fruit recalling peaches and apples.
Esencia Divi�a (by Gran Vinum) Albari�o 2004 ($19, Grapes of Spain/Elite Wines): Still a bit undeveloped aromatically, this is nevertheless a very satisfying drink, with deeply flavored peach fruit and nice mineral accents.
Pazo San Mauro Albari�o 2004 ($19, Billington/Winebow): Ample and deeply flavored, with ripe fruit but plenty of acidity for balance.
Abadia de San Campio (from Terras Gauda Estate) Albari�o 2004 ($18, A.V. Imports/National): Lean but still flavorful, this refreshing wine shows notes of pears and bright citrus fruits.
RUEDA
Jose Pariente Verdejo 2004 ($18, Grapes of Spain/Elite Wines): Vivacious and peerlessly fresh, this delightful wine features notes of apples and melons accented with interesting aromas of dried herbs and hay. Pass the shellfish!
Fuente Elvira Verdejo 2004 ($14, Grapes of Spain/Elite Wines): This is just a bit less detailed in aroma than the Pariente reviewed above but is even more generous in terms of flavor and body. A serious wine for the money, this seemed as fresh after being open for two days as when the cork was first pulled.
Mantel Blanco Verdejo 2004 ($14, imported and distributed by Country Vintner): The makers of this wine seem to get it right every year regardless of seasonal conditions, and the 2004 is a lovely wine with intense citrus notes and interesting aromas of herbs and freshly cut grass.
Pasil Verdejo 2004 ($13, Kysela): This textbook verdejo boasts intense fruit with notes of green apples, ripe lemons and dried herbs.
Valdelainos Verdejo 2004 ($11, Grapes of Spain/Elite): This excellent value shows relatively rich fruit recalling melons as well as citrus fruits, with nice aromatic accents and bright balancing acidity.
Palacio de Bornos Verdejo 2004 ($11, Kysela): Lean and brightly acidic but still flavorful, this must be one of the most refreshing wines available from anywhere in the world at this price.
BEST OF THE REST
Arabako Xarmant Txakolina (Txakoli de Alava) 2004 ($12, De Maison/Bacchus): Tough to pronounce but easy to like on a hot night, this wine from the Basque country is almost glaringly bright, with green apple and lemon-lime fruit that is tart but not sour.
Creu de Lavit (Penedes) Xarel-lo 2003 ($15, Freixenet USA/National): Interesting and aromatically complex, this wine shows lovely notes of baked apples and ripe pears, with wonderful undertones of wood smoke and straw. Medium-bodied, it is amply flavored but totally dry, with a long, detailed finish.
Marques de la Villa (Toro) Malvasia 2004 ($7, Touton): A surprisingly delicate white from a region that produces some of Spain's most muscular reds, this features lovely floral aromas, fresh fruit and plenty of acidity.
Los Monteros (Valencia) Blanco 2004 ($10, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners): Light and impeccably dry but still very expressive, this offers floral aromas that are flashy but not overbearing, followed by light-bodied fruit and a clean, refreshing finish.
� 2005 The Washington Post Company
washingtonpost.com
Spanish Discoveries
By Michael Franz
Post
Wednesday, June 15, 2005; F05
The dollar's value has been taking a wicked pounding from the euro until very recently, making it seem impossible that anyplace in Europe could currently rival the world's greatest sources for high-value wine. Yet the Levant region in southeastern Spain is sending us a surprising slew of remarkable reds that are packed with flavor and value.
My recent tastings turned up 18 wines that I'll recommend to back up this claim. Only two of them top the $20 mark, and 10 will ring up for $12 or less, so we're dealing with wines in a popular price range. However, I'd wager that few readers are familiar with more than one or two of them, so we're also dealing with wines that offer the pleasure of discovery along with all that flavor and value.
The wine-growing portion of the Levant is a relatively large area served by the Mediterranean port cities of Alicante and Valencia. Most of southeastern Spain is wickedly hot during the growing season, but some of the prime portions of the Levant enjoy cooling from the nearby sea or from the effects of altitude. The growing regions of Jumilla, Bullas, Yecla and Utiel-Requena include vineyards reaching heights from 2,000 feet to nearly 3,000 feet above sea level and are consequently capable of producing wines marked not only by ripeness but also by real complexity and class.
Winemaking in the Levant extends back to Roman times, but consistent quality wasn't achieved until temperature-controlled fermentation technology was widely adopted during the past two decades. Technical progress made the wines reliable, but they became salable here only in the past few years, as American consumers began displaying openness to Spanish reds other than famed Riojas. This has encouraged importers to begin working with Levantine wines, and though Utiel-Requena isn't likely to become a household word anytime soon, you'll probably be able to track down several of the top wines with a couple of calls to retailers.
Recommended wines are listed in order of preference, with regions of origin, approximate prices, importers and Washington distributors indicated in parentheses:
Coronilla (Utiel-Requena) Reserva 2000 ($24, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners): The Bobal grape is even more obscure than the Utiel-Requena region, but this wine suggests that both should be taken seriously. Made entirely from 60-year-old Bobal vines, it shows dark color and impressive density, with dark berry fruit and interesting accents of roasted meat, smoke and spices. Ready to drink but still capable of further development.
Vi�a Honda (Jumilla) 2001 "Allier-Finesse" 2001 ($17, Grapes of Spain/Elite): A blend of 85 percent Monastrell (known as mourvedre in France) and 15 percent Tempranillo, this is mature enough to show excellent softness and integration of flavors but also young enough to feature fresh black cherry fruit. Full-bodied and deeply flavored, it is nevertheless soft and smooth in texture.
Casa Castillo "Valtosca" (Jumilla) Syrah 2002 ($22, Jorge Ordo�ez/Henry Wine Group): Traditionalists may frown at a wine made from a French grape on Spanish soil, but their disapproval will likely wilt after a single sip of this. The dark, dense blackberry fruit is intense but drinkable, and so concentrated that it has already soaked up a serious dose of spicy oak, resulting in a bold but balanced profile.
Alceo (Jumilla) 2001 ($17, Grapes of Spain/Elite): A heady blend of 50 percent Monastrell, 25 percent Tempranillo and 25 percent syrah, this displays intense aromas and flavors of ultra-ripe plums, dried black cherries, roasted nuts, black licorice and wood smoke. Full-bodied and deeply flavored, this is ill-suited to cocktail-style sipping, yet grilled meats should tame it sufficiently for near-term enjoyment.
Casta�o "Solanera" (Yecla) Vi�as Viejas 2002 ($15, European Cellars/Henry): Dense, deliciously ripe fruit from old vines is the prime attraction here, and the winemaker has wisely let it stay in the forefront by eschewing fining [a clarification technique that can lessen flavor impact as it removes suspended particles from wine], filtration or excessive oak aging. Powerful but pure.
Rozaleme (Utiel-Requena) Bobal/Tempranillo 2003 ($16, De Maison/Bacchus): Complete and convincing, this features complex fruit flavors recalling dark berries and red cherries. Admirably balanced between ripe richness and bright freshness, it shows well-proportioned accents of oak and culminates in a long, symmetrical finish.
Casa de las Especias (Yecla) "Forte del Valle" 2004 ($17, De Maison/Bacchus): Impressive and tasty if still a bit raw and undeveloped, this powerhouse would benefit from a protracted timeout. However, if paired with robust meat dishes, its intense blackberry flavors will win many admirers.
Dominio del Arenal (Utiel-Requena) Crianza 1998 ($10, Country Vintner/Country Vintner): I've tasted this wine several times over the past couple of years, and whereas it sometimes seemed to be overly oaky, it has now matured into a well-balanced beauty offering outstanding value. A blend of 50 percent Tempranillo and 50 percent syrah, it shows alluring scents of ripe berries, wood smoke, vanilla and roasted meat.
Casa Castillo (Jumilla) Monastrell 2002 ($12, Jorge Ordo�ez/Henry): With substance, elegance and symmetry, this is an exemplary rendition of Monastrell and an achievement at this price level. Given a little time to aerate and unwind after opening, it shows medium-bodied fruit that is expressive and generous without seeming chunky or obvious. Strong but soft, this is a steal.
Alce�o (Jumilla) Tinto 2003 ($12, Grapes of Spain/Elite): Fruity and fun but hardly frivolous, this shows dark, concentrated blackberry fruit that is delightfully expressive, thanks to a light touch of oak. The fresh fruit can take a light chilling for use with grilled meats throughout the summer.
Coronilla (Utiel-Requena) Crianza 2002 ($13, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners): Another winner crafted from the Bobal grape, this features vivid flavors of dark berries and cherries, and reserved accents of smoke and spices.
Wrongo Dongo (Jumilla) 2003 ($9, Jorge Ordo�ez/Henry): Generous to a fault, this is a bit chunky for a Spanish wine, yet it remains far less obvious than most California zinfandels. Ripe and juicy, it will work well with almost any sort of barbecued meat.
ALSO RECOMMENDED: Finca Luzon (Jumilla) 2003 ($10, Jorge Ordo�ez/Henry); Castillo del Baron (Yecla) Monastrell 2003 ($9, Europvin/Bacchus); Travitana (Alicante) Old Vines Monastrell 2003 ($11, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners); Los Monteros (Valencia) 2004 ($10, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners); Carchelo (Jumilla) Monastrell 2004 ($10, Classical Wines/Henry); Agarena (Utiel-Requena) 2003 ($7, Tasman Imports/Wine Partners).
� 2005 The Washington Post Company
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
JP's was wonderful, as usual.
We're heading to Erte. Wine du jour is Cabernet from anywhere.
Whites, sparkling, stickies, ringers always welcome.
Erte Restaurant.
329 13 Ave NE, Mpls 55413
612-623-4211
6:30 on Thursday.
8 people.
No idea who.
Bob
Betsy
Lori
Russ
Nicolai
Jim
Warren/Ruth?
Janet?
Cheers,
Jim
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
Greetings,
Heading to JP's this week. Vin du juor is "Other French".
That is French but not bordeaux, not burgundy, and not rhone.
Thursday French from far afield at JP's
JP's American Bistro
JP Samuelson and our friend Karl
2937 S. Lyndale 55408 (612) 824-9300
No idea who's/how many are coming.
I'm a maybe at this point, although I am taking Friday off.
bob
betsy
bill
nicolai
karin
Cheers,
Jim
Liquor Depot Free Tasting!
Champagne and Premium Spirits Sale Dec. 8th - 31st
Every Champagne and sparkling wine in our store is on sale. Save 15% - 40%!
Check out www.liquordepot.com for the list. Also save on dozens of your
favorite premium spirits for the holidays. We also recognize that Champagne
alone will not satisfy all your holiday wants, so we've put hundreds of
fine wines on sale as well.
Free Champagne and Sparkling Wine Tasting
Thursday, December 8th, 5:00 - 7:00 p.m.
Stop by the store for this fun and free event. We will be sampling almost
three dozen Champagnes and sparkling wines in a variety of styles and price
ranges.
December 7, 2005
The Pour
Words on Wine, From Opposing Shores
By ERIC ASIMOV
FOR two entirely different perspectives on wine, you can do no better than Robert M. Parker Jr. and Hugh Johnson. They are American and British, Venus and Mars, Vidal and Mailer, with each representing for the other much of what's irritating, if not dangerous, in the world of wine. What, then, could be more delicious than for both men to have written new books?
Mr. Johnson, the older of the two, has been writing about wine for 40 years. His new book, A Life Uncorked (University of California Press, $35), available next month, is not so much an autobiography as a loving but bittersweet look back at bottles he's emptied and the people and places that produced them. It's a world that he treasures, and that he fears is on the way out, shoved along by people like Mr. Parker, whom he believes reduces a great bottle's story to tasting notes and a score.
His device is to offer readers a tour of his cellar, where each category - Champagne, Bordeaux, Burgundy, etc. - uncorks not only memories of long, leisurely meals with wines but trenchant observations on what makes wine so endlessly entrancing to so many people.
He's troubled that the subtle, challenging wines that have given him such pleasure - the sort worth waiting for as they age - are being replaced by obvious, heavier, more alcoholic styles that cater to that bad man, Mr. Parker, who lives outside of Baltimore. Or, as Mr. Johnson pungently puts it, "Imperial hegemony lives in Washington and the dictator of taste in Baltimore."
But Mr. Johnson is too intrinsically jolly to stay bitter for long. He's a delightful writer who will make you hungry and thirsty, and the rare wine reviewer who can capture the essence of a bottle without resorting to winespeak.
Mr. Johnson is not for wines with "mouth-staining levels of extract," a phrase that Mr. Parker uses as a compliment. Mr. Johnson might find such a wine undrinkable. No, when he likes a wine, he says things like: "You cannot go wrong with a Chablis. Why? Because it has more character than personality."
Certainly, Mr. Johnson has both character and personality, of a distinctively British sort. He learned about wine at Cambridge and lives in a manor, with a name, even - Saling Hall. He indulges in a continental predilection for dressing up in goofy costumes to meet the ceremonial demands of the various wine-drinking clubs to which he belongs.
MR. JOHNSON may move the mind, but Mr. Parker moves the market. When he loves a wine, the public tends to love it, too. In his new book, The World's Greatest Wine Estates: A Modern Perspective (Simon & Schuster, $75), Mr. Parker offers up his nominees for the 155 greatest wine producers. No doubt Mr. Johnson would dispute some of Mr. Parker's choices, but chances are he would agree with most of them.
This is a handsome reference guide, for the most part full of technical details that aficionados will dip into from time to time. But the most interesting part is a short opening chapter in which Mr. Parker tries to define what he means by greatness. He also spends some time getting even with his critics. Mr. Parker doesn't name names, so how he feels about Mr. Johnson in particular is unclear. But he spares no patience for writers like Mr. Johnson, who have made him a lightning rod for their disapproval.
Do people really want to turn the clock back, he asks, to a time when "disappointingly emaciated, austere, excessively tannic wines from famous terroirs were labeled 'classic' by a subservient wine press that existed on the largesse of the wine industry?"
He dispenses with them quickly, comparing them to "reactionary romantics" and "disingenuous politicians," their opinions gibberish. What to Mr. Johnson are matters of taste and fashion are to Mr. Parker matters of right and wrong.
Mr. Parker was trained as a lawyer, and he tends to write like one, marshaling arguments one by one, checking off points as he makes them. It's direct, businesslike and easy to understand. But wine - at least in his writing - exists in sort of a vacuum for Mr. Parker. While the bottles that he loves come off as staggering achievements, they don't inspire much in the way of thirst. Perhaps conveying the great pleasure he takes in wine will have to wait for his memoirs.
Those two giants may be slugging it out, but the wine terrain is so wide that there is plenty of room for the little guys, even when their books are not so little. The Wines of the Northern Rh�ne (University of California Press, $55) by John Livingstone-Learmonth, is an exhaustively researched, comprehensive guide to almost everything anybody wanted to know about the vineyards and wine producers of C�te-R�tie, Hermitage and all the subordinate appellations of the region. Mr. Livingstone-Learmonth, a British wine writer, previously published three editions of "The Wines of the Rhone," but evidently one volume was no longer big enough for the entire region.
He dissects every aspect of the northern Rhone, including the vineyards, the changing weather and evolution of viticulture and winemaking techniques. His tasting notes are pithy and his descriptions of each estate sharp. While he is a traditionalist, Mr. Livingstone-Learmonth is not dogmatic about it. He gives the modernists their due, and not reluctantly, either.
Paul Lukacs, an American who wrote "American Vintage," an excellent history of the American wine industry, now weighs in with The Great Wines of America: The Top Forty Vintners, Vineyards, and Vintages (W.W. Norton & Company, $30). As with any sort of list, its primary benefit is to provoke discussion. Mr. Lukacs's list could easily have resulted in a familiar, ho-hum rendition of greatest hits, but he refuses to settle for that. Instead, he offers a group of wines that is fiercely individual, in which distinctiveness is as important as critical approval.
How else to explain the side-by-side placement of Harlan Estate, maker of one of California's most sought-after cult wines, and Horton, which makes viognier in Virginia, or the inclusion of Stone Hill Winery, a Missouri producer that specializes in norton the grape, not the sewer worker? Count it as a gift that Mr. Lukacs knows his history, and can make us understand why we should care about Missouri norton.
TWO other books are worthy of quick notice. Don and Petie Kladstrup, who wrote "Wine and War," chronicling the history of French vineyards and winemakers under Nazi occupation, have now produced Champagne: How the World's Most Glamorous Wine Triumphed Over War and Hard Times (William Morrow, $24). The bloody history of Champagne has been told before, but not in such a breezy, easygoing volume. Good froth.
Finally, while wine producers love to portray themselves as humble artisans, winemaking these days is a complicated process that cannot always be understood intuitively. Fortunately, Jamie Goode's new book, The Science of Wine: From Vine to Glass (University of California Press, $35, available next month, explains some of the terms that critics toss around, like reverse osmosis and cane-pruning, while asking (and trying to answer) common-sense questions, like how much manipulation is acceptable in winemaking and whether a wine can taste like minerals. These could be dull topics, but Mr. Goode manages to make them lively and provocative.
--
------------------------------ *
* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu *
* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX *
* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *
