win October 2005

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[wine] Are we meeting this week? C-Pages

by Jim L. Ellingson

Are we meeting this week? Style? Venue? Cheers, Jim 2005 Wine & Dine Guide: The World in a Bottle If 40 distributors each work with between 30 and 200 chateaus, bodegas, collectives, estates, wineries, or what have you--how many separate bottlings are available in Minnesota? BY DARA MOSKOWITZ ART BY LAURA TUNDEL The world is big. I'd say it's actually bigger here than it is other places. In Los Angeles, for instance, the world seems to be about the size of your nearest competitor's pool, or development deal, or cup size. In New York, the world seems to stretch from the Hamptons to the insides of the newspapers and back again. In Minnesota, though, there's something in the culture that just seems to make the world, be it Spain or Germany, Africa or Guatemala, New York or Tulsa, and, of course, Sweden--always Sweden--seem very close at hand. Is it the education? The airlines? The Lutheran legacy of doing your good works in the world, and not merely in your heart? The evidence is everywhere. I'll never forget the time I was sitting in a booth in the Dino's Gyros in Falcon Heights, thinking about grape leaves and lemon soup, and the woman in the next booth, fresh from the airport, was rapturously describing to her young daughter what it's like to be invited to the White House. Then there's the conversation I had with a wedding caterer about how you're unlikely to succeed in the near western suburbs unless you can provide a Kosher/Korean banquet. And I was tickled to note the recent news stories on Minneapolis' ultra-deluxe new water filtration plant, which will put us in the big leagues, water-wise, on par with Singapore and Kuwait. You know, Singapore and Kuwait. I don't think other cities think about Singapore and Kuwait, but we evidently do. We also think of Tarragona, the Friulian Plains, Maipo Valley, and the shores of the Gironde, all of which I have encountered in the wine aisles of our local wine shops this month. We just have an astonishing array of global wines in Minnesota. This comes from our 40-plus wine distributors and importers--an astonishing richness, as many major cities have as few as two or three. (We have so many, I think, because of our reasonable Midwestern real estate, which allows storage costs to be kept low, and because the diversity of wine shops in the area provide them with a variety of markets. Some states basically have one big distributor that places most of its wine in the one big discount chain, with one phone call.) Now, do the math: If 40 distributors each work with between 30 and 200 chateaus, bodegas, collectives, estates, wineries, or what have you--how many separate bottlings are available in Minnesota? Enough so that if you have a curiosity about the wine culture of a place, and you live here, you have an itch you can actually scratch. You can do it casually or you can do it intensively. This year, for Wine and Dine, we have decided to point out how you might do either. On the pages that follow, you'll find several articles examining the wines of a single country--all European, this year--and suggesting strategies for getting to know them. For starters, we've dissected several wine lists heavy on the bottlings of a single country. There are some phenomenally deep and focused specialty wine lists to be found in town: Minneapolis's Black Forest, for instance, has enough German offerings that if you visit it monthly for a year or two, you will be, de facto, an expert in German wines. The same can be said of the Italian lists at Broder's and Osteria I Nonni, the French list at Vincent, or the Greek wine list at It's Greek to Me, which displays a truly astonishing array of Hellenic bottlings. Did we forget your favorite? Sorry, we'll try to do better next year. We picked these for their depth, focus, and ease of use. There was some consternation in the office as to whether we should write about Solera's gobsmack of a Spanish list--haven't we covered this already? But not writing about it in the end seemed kind of like talking about giant gorillas and leaving out King Kong: The only way you're going to see this many Spanish wines anywhere else is get out your passport and start practicing your Catalan. Speaking of which, Spanish wines have been very much on the mind of Twin Citians this year. My mailbox runneth over with folks asking me to help them decode the cheap, thrilling world of Spanish reds. And so for the second component of this year's edition of Wine and Dine, I fell back on an idea I've used before: the wine party, or guided tasting. I really do think it's the most helpful way to write about wine, and I hope you'll agree. I guess I just never got over the idea that if you teach a man to fish, he'll eventually be able to work the wine sales himself, and amass a wine cellar he can drink from all winter long. So here we have it, Wine and Dine 2005: a big, wide, drinkable world, all for you. See Also in This Issue: Wine Party: Spanish Reds Skip the Forest, Focus on a Few of the Most Typical Trees, and You May Finally Feel Comfortable in the Fabulous Jungle of Spanish Red Wines Spanish Reds: The Rest of the Story Grapes you might meet Barbie's Revenge Bright Pink Spanish Rosado Is Something You Can Buy Without Thinking. In 2005, It's All Good. No, Seriously. Elsewhere in Europe Want to taste your way through another country? Local restaurants are a good first stop -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

20 years, 1 month

[wine] [jellings@me.umn.edu: Any Pinot at Muffuleta]

by Jim L. Ellingson

Have Fun. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2005 18:42:15 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Any Pinot at Muffuleta Greetings, Greats views, foods and wines at Lee and Melisa's last week. Thanks for hosting. This week, we've been invited to Muffuletta. 6:30 pm on Thursday the 6th. Muffuletta Cafe 2260 Como St. Paul, 55108 St. Anthony Park 651-644-9116 Style du jour is "Any Pinot". Pinot Blanc, Gris, Grigio. Heck, even pinot noir. Yes Warren/Ruth Betsy/guest Bob Guess: Lori Nicolai Karin Roger Janet Directions: Take Hwy 280 to Como, go east up the hill and then to the second light (Carter). Alt: Take Snelling to Como, West to Carter. Have fun. See you next week. Cheers, Jim THE CHRONICLE'S WINE SELECTIONS: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Thursday, September 22, 2005 Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. The Chronicle's Wine Selections: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * ----- End forwarded message -----

20 years, 2 months

[wine] Any Pinot at Muffuleta

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Greats views, foods and wines at Lee and Melisa's last week. Thanks for hosting. This week, we've been invited to Muffuletta. 6:30 pm on Thursday the 6th. Muffuletta Cafe 2260 Como St. Paul, 55108 St. Anthony Park 651-644-9116 Style du jour is "Any Pinot". Pinot Blanc, Gris, Grigio. Heck, even pinot noir. Yes Warren/Ruth Russ Betsy Bob Guess: Lori Nicolai Karin Roger Bill Janet Directions: Take Hwy 280 to Como, go east up the hill and then to the second light (Carter). Alt: Take Snelling to Como, West to Carter. Have fun. See you next week. Cheers, Jim THE CHRONICLE'S WINE SELECTIONS: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir - Thursday, September 22, 2005 Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. The Chronicle's Wine Selections: Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Here are the panel picks from 50 Russian River Valley Pinot Noirs from 2002 and 2003 tasted for today. ________________________________________ 2003 Alderbrook Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $24 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe nose of black cherry, rosemary, pine and spice; juicy black cherry, black raspberry, vanilla, black pepper and anise flavors; tart cranberry finish; great balance; soft mouthfeel. ________________________________________ 2003 Bearboat Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $20 Body: Medium Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Lean, elegant style. Nose of cherry, red raspberry, cranberry, cassis, dried leaf and toast; similar flavors plus hint of licorice; bright acidity; wonderful with food. ________________________________________ 2003 David Bruce Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $40 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Subtle nose of cherry, dried cranberry and pencil shavings; ripe black cherry, cassis, raspberry, citrus peel and white pepper flavors; slightly alcoholic; long finish. ________________________________________ 2003 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Mushroom, black cherry, toasted pine nuts, rose petal and leather aromas; ripe black cherry, blackberry, plum, tobacco and loam flavors; supple tannins; mouthwatering acidity. ________________________________________ 2002 Deerfield Ranch Cohn Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $48 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Smells of vanilla and wild blackberry with hint of toast; similar on palate, plus baking spice, truffle and dark chocolate; rich and seductive; polished tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Dutton Goldfield Dutton Ranch RRV Pinot Noir Price: $35 Body: Medium-full Dryness: Dry Comments: Nose of blueberry, black cherry, raspberry and pine; cranberry, dried cherry, citrus, vanilla and toast flavors; round on palate; silky tannins; nice balance. ________________________________________ 2002 Forchini Proprietor's Reserve RRV Pinot Noir Price: $22 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Cherry, herb, pine, soy sauce and oak on nose; flavors of juicy black cherry, cassis, licorice and black pepper; cranberry on finish; young - needs time for tannins to soften. ________________________________________ 2003 Fritz Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Herb and rose on nose, though toast and earth dominate; mushroom, soy sauce, black cherry, black tea and tobacco flavors; excellent acidity; long, fresh raspberry finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Russian River Selection RRV Pinot Noir Price: $34 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of Bing cherry, truffle and vanilla with juicy blackberry, black plum, raspberry and licorice flavors with hints of spice; round and deeply flavored; lush tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Gary Farrell Rochioli Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $60 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Aromas of toasted marshmallow, pie crust, cherry and mushroom; root beer, black cherry, tart plum and vanilla flavors; pert acidity; light coating tannins. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Harvest Moon Vineyards & Winery RRV Pinot Noir Price: $18 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Ripe black cherry nose with hint of baking spice; palate starts with ripe strawberry and cherry pie filling; soft in the mouth until a tannic close. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 J Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $28 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Aromas of cherry pie, ripe blackberry, boysenberry, tea leaf, earth and baking spice; black cherry and vanilla flavors with touches of citrus and smoked meat; round tannins. ________________________________________ 2003 Lost Canyon Saralee's Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $38 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Beautiful nose of black plum, black cherry, raspberry and rose; similar flavors; supple tannins, full, luscious, great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Lynmar Quail Hill Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $45 Body: Full Dryness: Dry-semidry Comments: Strawberry compote, cherry, tar and dust aromas; similar flavors with jammy black and red fruit and black pepper; round tannins; hot finish. ________________________________________ 2003 Merry Edwards Russian River Valley Olivet Lane Pinot Noir Price: $54 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Pretty Bing cherry, leather and spice nose with a hint of mint; black cherry, cranberry, mushroom and cherry cola flavors; polished and elegant. Low production. ________________________________________ 2002 Russian Hill Estate Vineyards RRV Pinot Noir Price: $30 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Mushroom, earth, soy sauce, black cherry and currant nose; supple texture, plush tannins; ripe black plum, cola and spice flavors; mouthwatering acidity. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Russian Hill Tara Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Excellent. Truffle, toast, herb and wet earth aromas with herb notes; rich, ripe cassis, black cherry, raspberry, black tea and cinnamon flavors; silky tannins; great balance. Low production. ________________________________________ 2003 Williams Selyem Russian River Valley Pinot Noir Price: $42 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Outstanding; the panel favorite. Exotic nose of blackberry, black cherry, herb and toast; boysenberry, raspberry, vanilla and licorice flavors; bright acidity; balanced. ________________________________________ 2003 Woodenhead Buena Tierra Vineyard RRV Pinot Noir Price: $46 Body: Full Dryness: Dry Comments: Very good. Rose, raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, cassis, earth, mushroom, dried herb and white pepper aromas and flavors; tart acidity; Burgundian style. Low production. ________________________________________ Panelists: Lynne Bennett, staff writer/wine coordinator, The Chronicle; Linda Murphy, wine editor, The Chronicle; Rom Toulon, sommelier, Four Seasons Hotel, San Francisco; Oscar Val Verde, general manager, 2223 Restaurant & Bar, San Francisco. Wines listed are generally available but may not be in all stores. Start with local wine merchants, but also try larger stores and wineries. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

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win October 2005