win August 2004

win@thebarn.com

3 participants
11 discussions

[wine] [jellings@me.umn.edu: Mediteranian at Corner Table] TONIGHT

by Jim L. Ellingson

Mostly an update. Looks like 6 or 8 is very likely. Scott has agreed to wave the corkage ($10) provided we take good care of our server$ (like always) and we send samples back to the kitchen. Some thoughts on the Cab pricing as the strong 2001 vintage hits the shelf, and will be replaced by the more variable 02 and 03 vintages. Laube of the Speculator. The Liq. Depot sale starts today. Tasting tonight, and on Wednesday 8 Spetember. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 11:21:39 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Cc: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> Subject: Mediteranian at Corner Table User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i Greetings, A Rebours was fantastic. Great food, very interesting and some truly great wines. Next week, let's take Scott/Jason up on their offer/suggestion. Vin du jour is "Mediteranian Wines" at Corner Table. As an added incentive for Jason, we're also including anything "Rhone." Put another way, adding Mediteranian to Rhone was a good way to make peace w/ certain Burgundy/Barollo types. Corner Table Scott Pampuch 4257 Nicollet Av S Minneapolis 612-823-0011 Yes: Lori Betsy Bob Nicolai Bill S Roger Jim/Louise maybe/late: nephews in town Maybe's Brian others No's. Ruth/Warren pairing deep fried twinkies with asti spumante at the Fair Annette pouring and rubbing elbows at the Country Club. Joe C Jason Whooping it up by the Bay Cheers, Jim >From Jason: Scott Pampuch is about 4 weeks away from re-opening the n.e. thyme caf? spot. He's running into kitchen code issues (with the new ownership not much got grandfathered in). It will be called Corner Table. I've talked to him about the Thursday group and he looks forward to cooking for you again. His sous chef is a guy named Keven Kalstren (I think that's the spelling) who trained in Bordeaux. Before ne thyme closed Annette Peters and I had possibly the best lobster based seafood bisque I've ever had, made by this guy. Annette immediately picked it out as French-trained. Wine Spectator Online http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Main/Feature_Basic_Template/0,1197,2272,0… Home > Price Check on Cabernet Price Check on Cabernet Posted: Thursday, August 26, 2004 By James Laube This could be a watershed year for Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. That might seem like an odd assessment coming, as it does, just as the fabulous 2001 vintage arrives in the market. But as grand as this new vintage is -- and it is a dandy, on par with past greats such as 1997 and 1996 -- many of the wines face obstacles, both immediate and long term. The main problem is that too many Cabernets are overpriced. Vintners are ignoring what the market wants: greater value. Even if the economy rebounds, as it occasionally shows signs of doing, there are still real fiscal uncertainties facing this country, and consumers are justifiably cautious about parting with their wine dollars. Producing high-priced wines has its risks. Steep prices escalate even further once wines reach restaurant lists. Restaurateurs (and top-end Cabernet producers I've talked to lately) say sales of high-end Cabernets remain slow. Some sommeliers are reshuffling their lists and focusing on different varietals, wines that they not only find more exciting but that they can offer at significantly lower prices. That's a double whammy for Cabernet producers. Napa vintners are quick to point out that their wines are less expensive than the elite first-growths from Bordeaux, which is true. But that's more a rationalization for their high prices than it is a persuasive argument consumers should buy into. After all, there are many fine Bordeaux at lower prices. Why are Cabernet prices so high? One reason is marketing. Many wineries seek to create an image of luxury and exclusivity. Their owners simply look at what the competition is charging, figure their own wines are as good, and price them accordingly. Another ploy is promoting single-vineyard wines of limited production as superior in quality. Sorry, but single-vineyard wines are not always better than wines that are blends of several sources. In one of my recent blind tastings, I preferred the less expensive Cabernets from three fine producers -- Flora Springs, Livingston Moffett and La Jota -- to their luxury, or single-vineyard, cuv�es, which go for two or three times the price. This left me questioning their marketing judgment with the higher priced wines. Another cause of elevated prices is that most new wineries have paid extremely high prices for vineyard property. The only way they can possibly hope to recoup their investment is to charge as much as they think the market will bear. Consumers shouldn't pay for wineries' real estate speculations. Also, many of these new vineyards are in remote mountain sites, which are notorious for yielding spartan crops and austere wines. It typically takes 10 to 15 years for most vintners to learn how to manage their vineyards and have a reasonable expectation as to how their wines will develop. Then there's this reality: Many Cabernets simply aren't that good, yet are priced as if they're can't-miss wines. A few weeks ago, I tasted dozens of barrel samples of 2003 Cabernets at the California Cabernet Society tasting in St. Helena. These are wines that are targeted to sell in the $40 to $175 per bottle range. Some were new names, using newly planted vineyards. I singled out a half-dozen wines I'd consider buying; the rest simply weren't terribly interesting. A few were even flawed, with high levels of volatile acidity and Brettanomyces, signs of inexperienced winemakers; they were poor choices to show as previews of what lies ahead. And even if Cabernet's high prices weren't at issue, vintners are facing serious competition from other varieties both within California and beyond, with many of the outsiders giving Napa's thoroughbred grape a serious run for its money. At Wine Spectator's Grand Tour in Los Angeles, the most exciting wine I tasted was Casa Lapostolle Clos Apalta 2001 (95, $55), from Chile. Its 2000 was the No. 3 wine in our 2003 Top 100. I'm not suggesting you shouldn't buy 2001 Napa Cabernets. Just shop wisely and consider what you're buying. This is the best vintage among the current and near-future offerings. Both 2002 and 2003 are variable in quality; there will be some terrific wines, but quality in both years was uneven, especially in 2003. If you're spending more on wine than you'd like, or think is wise, you're probably chasing limited-production wines with lofty reputations. But it also means you're missing opportunities in a market where quality and value can work to your advantage. James Laube, Wine Spectator's Napa Valley-based senior editor, has been with the magazine since 1983. Back to top -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Re: Mediteranian at Corner Table on 8/26/04

by Jim L. Ellingson

Hi Scott, Are "standard day/time" is Thursdays at 6:30. We're hoping you can accomodate us this week (Thursday 26 August at 6:30) Let me know if this Thursday will not work and we will reschedule. Most of the group will be on time, but a few folks may not make it away from work until 7-ish. Eight sounds like a pretty good estimate of the head count. I'll edit the list below per the information I have now. I've also added the industry ties some of us have. We can/often update the count on Wednesday or Thursday. Happy to hear Jason will be dining in the City by the Bay, although he's always a great addition to our tastings and will be missed. Cheers, Jim 763-494-1907 On Sat, Aug 21, 2004 at 12:09:40PM -0500, Scott Pampuch wrote: > Just wondering what time this group would come in and if this is the 21st? > saturday or next week, sorry if i don't see what the date is? > > > -Scott > > > >From: "Jason Kallsen" <jason(a)twincitieswine.com> > >Reply-To: <jason(a)twincitieswine.com> > >To: "'Jim L. Ellingson'" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> > >CC: "Scott Pampuch" <scott_pampuch(a)hotmail.com> > >Subject: RE: [wine] Mediteranian at Corner Table > >Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2004 21:52:02 -0500 > > > >Hey Jim and everybody: > > > >Glad to hear you're heading over to Corner Table for a dinner. > > > >Unfortunately, I'll be in San Francisco that night (have any of you had > >dinner at A-16 in North Beach?? Named after a highway in southern Italy). > >So please enjoy a bottle of Rhone and think of me. > > > >Scott only has two requests for the group: treat the server well ($$) and > >in lieu of corkage send tasters back to the kitchen. > > > >I'm copying this over to Scott -- email him with any specific requests. > >Hey > >Scott: put them down for a table of eight in case the whole group shows up. > > > >Have fun! > > > >Jason Kallsen > > > >-----Original Message----- > >From: Jim L. Ellingson [mailto:jellings@me.umn.edu] > >Sent: Friday, August 20, 2004 11:22 AM > >To: wine(a)thebarn.com > >Cc: Jim L. Ellingson > >Subject: [wine] Mediteranian at Corner Table > > > >Greetings, > > > >A Rebours was fantastic. Great food, very interesting and > >some truly great wines. > > > >Next week, let's take Scott/Jason up on their offer/suggestion. > > > >Vin du jour is "Mediteranian Wines" at Corner Table. As an added > >incentive for Jason, we're also including anything "Rhone." > >Put another way, adding Mediteranian to Rhone was a good way to > >make peace w/ certain Burgundy/Barollo types. > > > >Corner Table Scott Pampuch > >4257 Nicollet Av S > >Minneapolis > >612-823-0011 > > > > > >Yes: > > > >Lori (pours for ???) > >Betsy > >Bob (Burgundy/Barollo Bob Kyllingstad) > >Jim and Louise (Great Lakes Brewing News) > >Nicolai (Chi-Lake Liqs Wine Guy) > >Annette (Phillips Wine and Spirits) > > > > > >Maybe's > >Bill S > >Brian (Buyer for the Cellars) > > > > > >No's. > > > >Ruth/Warren pairing deep fried twinkies with asti spumante at the Fair (somalier and manager at Muffuletta) > >Joe C (Solo Vino) > > > >Cheers, > >Jim > > > > > > > > > >-- > >------------------------------ * > >* Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * > >* University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * > >* Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * > > > > > > > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Mediteranian at Corner Table

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, A Rebours was fantastic. Great food, very interesting and some truly great wines. Next week, let's take Scott/Jason up on their offer/suggestion. Vin du jour is "Mediteranian Wines" at Corner Table. As an added incentive for Jason, we're also including anything "Rhone." Put another way, adding Mediteranian to Rhone was a good way to make peace w/ certain Burgundy/Barollo types. Corner Table Scott Pampuch 4257 Nicollet Av S Minneapolis 612-823-0011 Yes: Lori Betsy Bob Jim Nicolai Annette Maybe's Joe C Bill S Brian No's. Ruth/Warren pairing deep fried twinkies with asti spumante at the Fair Cheers, Jim >From Jason: Scott Pampuch is about 4 weeks away from re-opening the n.e. thyme caf? spot. He's running into kitchen code issues (with the new ownership not much got grandfathered in). It will be called Corner Table. I've talked to him about the Thursday group and he looks forward to cooking for you again. His sous chef is a guy named Keven Kalstren (I think that's the spelling) who trained in Bordeaux. Before ne thyme closed Annette Peters and I had possibly the best lobster based seafood bisque I've ever had, made by this guy. Annette immediately picked it out as French-trained. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Fw: Red Events! Paul Boyum

by ANNETTE

RED wants us to come in - he keeps asking me about the wine group. Let's talk about Sept. 9. I can arrange. I don't think a tasting menu is necessary unless I hear otherwise. Annette S. ----- Original Message ----- From: pboyum(a)redrestaurant.us<mailto:pboyum@redrestaurant.us> To: wine(a)thebarn.com<mailto:wine@thebarn.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2004 6:55 PM Subject: [wine] Red Events! Paul Boyum Annette, I would love to have your wine group in for a dinner at Red. If you like Executive Chef matt Kempf and I will create a tasting menu for you and your guests. If you have wines that you know you may want to taste, we can pair wines or yo can create a menu of your own. I will definetetly serve dessert wine or maderia complements of Alex Margolin, Reds owner. Please contact me with questions or concers at Red 612-436-8888, my home office 612-501-6823 or email me at pboyum(a)redrestaurnt.us<mailto:pboyum@redrestaurnt.us> I would like to see you very soon. Paul Boyum

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Brdx, Loire at A' Rebours on Thursday!

by Jim L. Ellingson

An update, sort of, and a vintage chart. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Brdx at A' Rebours on Thurs User-Agent: Mutt/1.5.4i Greetings, I'm stuck in training this week. Won't be on line all that much. Best guess at a head count. Matt/Annette (Thanks for setting this up!) Jim Bob Lori Betsy I haven't really heard from anyone, but would guess taht these are fair bets. Roger Nicolai Joe C. (who always rsvps. Thanks Joe!) Sounds like the rest. is in the Hamm building? Better parking is away from the X and the Ordway. e.g. on 6th, Wabasha, 7th, etc. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from ANNETTE <mandastad(a)msn.com> ----- From: ANNETTE <mandastad(a)msn.com> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Fw: thurs Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:07:11 -0500 I'm not sure if Jim is back so I'll forward this to the barn. ----- Original Message ----- From: ANNETTE<mailto:mandastad@msn.com> To: jim.ellingson<mailto:jim.ellingson@bsci.com> Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 11:23 PM Subject: thurs HI Jim We decided to do Bordeaux and Loire at the new French bistro in St. Paul - A Rebours - owned by the Bakery on Grand people with Michael Morse at the helm. I set the res. for 8 people. Let me know a count by Wed. if possible. I won't be there until after 7:00. The restaurant is on St. Peter street just west of Kinkaids and the St. Paul Hotel. Street parking or Lawson Bldg. ramp. Annette S. ----- End forwarded message ----- Vintage Chart France : Bordeaux Vintage Score Description Drink Rec 2002 85-89* Despite a difficult August, top names made good to very good reds; firm and medium-bodied* NYR 2001 88 Very good clarets, with cool fruit and modern, silky tannins. Underrated by many Drink or Hold 2000 99 Postmodern classic year, with well-structured reds. Built for longevity. Particularly great for Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, but Merlot also excellent. A benchmark Hold 1999 83 Aromatic, delicate and fruity. Stick to top estates; rest mediocre Drink or Hold 1998 90 Split vintage; monumental for Pomerol, St.-Emilion and those who picked before rain (98 points); the rest good, but slightly diluted (83 points) Drink or Hold 1997 81 Pleasant, light and fruity clarets with lovely perfumes. Superb Sauternes Drink 1996 87 Stick to the M�doc for aromatic, firm and medium-bodied wines; most other districts' taste diluted Drink or Hold 1995 95 Warm, wonderful reds with opulent fruit and velvety tannins; harmonious and beautiful Hold 1994 85 Medium-bodied, with good fruit, firm tannins Drink or Hold 1993 82 Good color; perfumy, fruity and balanced Drink 1992 72 Light, simple and often diluted; early maturing Drink 1991 72 Lean, tough and light; top names only Drink 1990 97 Opulent, well structured and harmonious Hold 1989 98 Bold, dramatic fruit character; tannic and long-aging Hold 1988 93 Typical structure; racy, fruity wines, firm tannins. Best in Pessac-L�ognan, Pomerol, Pauillac Drink or Hold 1987 76 Delicate, ripe yet diluted Drink 1986 95 Powerful, intense and tannic; best in M�doc Hold 1985 93 Balanced, supple and fruity; defines finesse Drink or Hold 1984 70 Unripe, astringent and dry; most fading Drink 1983 86 Rich and ripe in fruit and tannins; some overly tannic Drink 1982 95 Intense ripe fruit and generous in style; plenty of round tannins. St.-Julien and St.-Emilion stand out Drink or Hold 1970 91 Excellent all-around vintage; structured, lots of fruit Drink or Hold 1961 99 Best since 1945; great concentration and structure Drink or Hold * Preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling. Vintage Ratings: 95-100, classic; 90-94, outstanding; 80-89, good to very good; 70-79, average; 60-69, below average; 50-59, poor. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Brdx at A' Rebours on Thurs

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, I'm stuck in training this week. Won't be on line all that much. Best guess at a head count. Matt/Annette (Thanks for setting this up!) Jim Bob Lori Betsy I haven't really heard from anyone, but would guess taht these are fair bets. Roger Nicolai Joe C. (who always rsvps. Thanks Joe!) Sounds like the rest. is in the Hamm building? Better parking is away from the X and the Ordway. e.g. on 6th, Wabasha, 7th, etc. Cheers, Jim ----- Forwarded message from ANNETTE <mandastad(a)msn.com> ----- From: ANNETTE <mandastad(a)msn.com> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Fw: thurs Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:07:11 -0500 I'm not sure if Jim is back so I'll forward this to the barn. ----- Original Message ----- From: ANNETTE<mailto:mandastad@msn.com> To: jim.ellingson<mailto:jim.ellingson@bsci.com> Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 11:23 PM Subject: thurs HI Jim We decided to do Bordeaux and Loire at the new French bistro in St. Paul - A Rebours - owned by the Bakery on Grand people with Michael Morse at the helm. I set the res. for 8 people. Let me know a count by Wed. if possible. I won't be there until after 7:00. The restaurant is on St. Peter street just west of Kinkaids and the St. Paul Hotel. Street parking or Lawson Bldg. ramp. Annette S. ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Red Events! Paul Boyum

by pboyum＠redrestaurant.us

Annette, I would love to have your wine group in for a dinner at Red. If you like Executive Chef matt Kempf and I will create a tasting menu for you and your guests. If you have wines that you know you may want to taste, we can pair wines or yo can create a menu of your own. I will definetetly serve dessert wine or maderia complements of Alex Margolin, Reds owner. Please contact me with questions or concers at Red 612-436-8888, my home office 612-501-6823 or email me at pboyum(a)redrestaurnt.us I would like to see you very soon. Paul Boyum

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Fw: thurs

by ANNETTE

I'm not sure if Jim is back so I'll forward this to the barn. ----- Original Message ----- From: ANNETTE<mailto:mandastad@msn.com> To: jim.ellingson<mailto:jim.ellingson@bsci.com> Sent: Monday, August 16, 2004 11:23 PM Subject: thurs HI Jim We decided to do Bordeaux and Loire at the new French bistro in St. Paul - A Rebours - owned by the Bakery on Grand people with Michael Morse at the helm. I set the res. for 8 people. Let me know a count by Wed. if possible. I won't be there until after 7:00. The restaurant is on St. Peter street just west of Kinkaids and the St. Paul Hotel. Street parking or Lawson Bldg. ramp. Annette S.

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Spain/France tonight, Spain at Auriga tomorrow.

by Jim L. Ellingson

Greetings, Group is going to Auriga tomorrow. Vin du jour is Spanish wines. Have fun. Tonight, there's a S. Lyndale tasting by Annette Peters. These are sit down tastings with cheese and crackers. I have one spot open. Additional "guests" are welcome at $20 each. Start time is 7:00. Loocation is the Sheraton (was a Radison) at Hwy 100, NW of 494 interchange. Let me know if you want the free/member spot. Cheers, Jim 763-494-1907 ----- Forwarded message from Rick <info(a)southlyndaleliquors.com> ----- From: Rick <info(a)southlyndaleliquors.com> To: info(a)southlyndaleliquors.com Subject: Grapevine Wineclub !!! Date: Tue, 3 Aug 2004 12:21:05 -0500 South Lyndale Liquors' Grapevine Wine Club Presents A Tour of France & Spain With Returning Guest Speaker Annette Peters It is time now for a trip through the great wine regions of France and Spain. Back by popular demand is "Twin Cities Wine Guru" Annette Peters. She is now the National Sales Director for EuropVin Importing Co. Those of you, who have not experienced a Grapevine evening with Annette, should not miss this one. Annette is an authority on fine wines from all over the world. She is also a long-time friend of South Lyndale Liquors and a terrific and energetic speaker. We always look forward to sharing wine and knowledge with Annette Peters. She has selected her personal favorites exclusively for this event. We look forward to seeing you there. Also, thank you to all who filled out the survey at the last wine club meeting. It's exciting to see so much interest in wine and culinary vacations. We are compiling the data and we hope to have more info for you very soon. Cheers! Rick Heyne DATE: WEDNESDAY, AUGUST 11, 2004 TIME: 7:OO PM PLACE: SHERATON HOTEL BLOOMINGTON ROOM: GRAND BALLROOM WEST (NON-MEMBER FEE: $20.00) ATTENTION: THE "2004 GRAPEVINE WINE CLUB" IS NOW CLOSED TO NEW MEMBERS. WE WILL OPEN UP THE 2005 REGISTRATION DURING OUR "FALL WINE SALE" IN OCTOBER. Tasting Calendar for 2004 August 11th - Wednesday Tour of France & Spain Guest Speaker - Annette Peters (EuropVin Imports, Inc.) September 8th - Wednesday Tour of South Africa & New Zealand Guest Speaker - Kevin Litzau (Vineyard Brands, Inc.) October 6th - Wednesday Salud America Selections, Wines of South America Guest Speaker - TBA October 22nd - November 6th FALL WINE SALE!!! (2005 Grapevine Wine Club Registration Begins) DECEMBER 9th - THURSDAY 6TH ANNUAL BENEFIT FOR ST. JOSEPH'S HOME FOR CHILDREN Management South Lyndale Liquors info(a)southlyndaleliquors.com ----- End forwarded message ----- -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 *

21 years, 3 months

[wine] Pinot Anything at the 510

by Jim L. Ellingson

An update, and some info on OR pinots from the speculator. ----- Forwarded message from "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> ----- Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2004 17:51:34 -0500 From: "Jim L. Ellingson" <jellings(a)me.umn.edu> To: wine(a)thebarn.com Subject: [wine] Pinot at 510 Greetings, Ribs at Bob's was grand. This week, it's Pinot at the 510. Most any pinot will do. From pinot gris to Burgundy. Who's coming. Brian Betsy Bob Lori Jim Bill S. Lots of others I'm sure. Thursday (tomorrow), 6:30 p.m. at 510 Groveland. The 510 Restaurant 510 Groveland Ave MINNEAPOLIS, MN 55403 Phone: 612-874-6440 Cheers, Jim Wine Spectator Online http://www.winespectator.com/Wine/Main/Feature_Basic_Template/0,1197,2262,0… Home > Oregon Scores Big With 2002 Pinots Oregon Scores Big With 2002 Pinots Opulent, balanced wines dominate another warm vintage Posted: Monday, July 26, 2004 By Harvey Steiman Click map to enlarge Top-Scoring Oregon Pinot Noirs Smart Buys Best Values Oregon Pinot Noir Vintage Chart Beyond Pinot Noir Pinot Noir is Oregon.s most important varietal, but others are notable, especially whites 10 Vintners Under One Roof Carlton Winemakers Studio lets small Oregon wineries share state-of-the-art equipment The first wave of 2002 Pinot Noirs from Oregon is terrifically ripe and extraordinarily well-balanced, making it clear that this is the state's best vintage yet, the pinnacle of a string of warm, dry vintages. The best 2002s have superb balance and pure, ripe flavors. Ten of my top 15 wines in this report, which covers all the Oregon wines reviewed in the past year, are 2002 Pinot Noirs. The other five are Pinot Noirs from 2001, also a strong vintage. It's a measure of 2002's superiority that it dominates the top-rated group even though I tasted fewer 2002s than 2001s in the past year. The longer-aged 2002s have yet to be released, but based on the barrel samples I tasted on a visit to Oregon in March, it appears the vintage conditions favored producers who prefer opulent styles, because the natural ripeness in 2002 was not over-the-top. The steady, warm weather in 2002 produced balanced, supple wines. In all, I tasted more than 400 finished Oregon wines for this report. Pinot Noir accounted for more than 60 percent of the total, outnumbering Pinot Gris, the next largest group, by nearly six to one. Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are also players. Warmer Oregon regions, such as Rogue Valley and those portions of eastern Oregon that share the Columbia Valley and Walla Walla appellations with Washington, make Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. But those wines, and the occasional Arneis, Dolcetto, Gamay, Gew�rztraminer, Melon and Muscat, pleasant as they can be, are not consistent standouts. Pinot Noir is. (For top Oregon wines other than Pinot Noir, see "Beyond Pinot Noir.") Among what's available so far, the Pinot Noir champ is Beaux Fr�res Willamette Valley The Beaux Fr�res Vineyard 2002 (95 points on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, $75), a lavish wine with mouthwatering acidity. Its wash of plum, blackberry, cherry and dusky spice flavors zoom over a fine-grained finish. That's the ideal from 2002 -- ripe flavors in perfect harmony. Another arresting bottling is Bergstr�m Willamette Valley Arcus Vineyard 2002 (94, $85), which is plush-textured and layered with wild berry and cherry flavors. Vintage 2002 is so good across the board that some of the lower-priced Pinots are more attractive than some at two or three times their price. For sheer value, it's hard to beat Ponzi Willamette Valley Tavola (91, $15), the winery's entry-level Pinot. It has deft balance, plum and white pepper flavors and impressive length. Van Duzer Willamette Valley (91, $22), Argyle Willamette Valley (90, $18), Raptor Ridge Yamhill (90, $18) and a new wine from Brick House, Willamette Clos Ladybug (90, $19), all score high on the value meter in '02. I liked the basic Patricia Green Oregon bottling (90, $19) better than most of the winery's higher-priced, single-vineyard wines. Among the 2001s that have arrived since last year's first look at that vintage are a couple of glorious wines from Archery Summit, including its rich, blackberry- and pepper-redolent Oregon Arcus Estate (93, $75). Another gem among the more recently issued wines is Chehalem Willamette Valley Rion Reserve (93, $50), which is nicely fleshed out with rich flavors. Based on availability and price, the juiciest choices among the later-released 2001 Willamette Valley Pinots might be WillaKenzie's Pierre Leon (91, $36) and its Aliette (91, $36), two distinctive reds that are neither too big nor too lean, and a pair from Argyle, the Reserve (91, $30) and Nuthouse (91, $40), both a bit less opulent than usual but still offering pure flavors. Also, keep an eye out for the Hamacher 2001 (91, $35), arriving later this year; it's a beautifully crafted wine with a welcome tang of fresh earth, currant, blackberry and cherry flavors. Other recent releases include the last of the 2000s, among them Ponzi Willamette Valley 30th Anniversary Reserve (91, $55), Domaine Drouhin Oregon Louise Red Hills Estate (91, $75), Eola Hills Oregon Wolf Hill Vineyard (91, $40) and Witness Tree's Willamette Valley Vintage Select 2000 (91, $32), which is more available than the winery's two other limited bottlings. On the downside, the field is starting to get crowded, partly because existing wineries can't resist adding more reserve and single-vineyard bottlings. After tasting too many examples that are pretty good but not so special, I can't help wondering if their regular bottlings might be better if they didn't divert so much of the best wine to these higher-priced cuv�es. New wineries on the block, such as Gypsy Dancer, are also demanding attention for their Pinot Noirs. In 2001 Gary Andrus sold his interests in both Archery Summit and California's Pine Ridge wineries. In 2002, he bought the former Lion Valley property just in time to cut the crop by about a ton per acre and make a lovely wine labeled Gary & Christine's Vineyard 2002 (91, $40), which has crisp acidity to balance its plum and currant flavors. Gypsy Dancer's Yamhill Cuv�e A & G Estate Vineyard 2002 (92, $70), made from a Red Hills vineyard owned by Andrus, is richer and more stylish. Andrus says he was attracted to the site because of its closely spaced vines -- at 4,000 per acre, the densest in Oregon -- and has continued the style in planting the remaining 20 acres, all visible from the family home built atop the winery. One winery showing significant improvement over previous vintages is Van Duzer. Carl Thoma, former owner of California's Parducci winery, bought the property in 1998 and has been pouring money into the vineyards. It's evident from a visit to the property, with its closely spaced vines and Low Input Viticulture and Enology-certified soil management regime, that these guys have gotten serious. They stopped purchasing grapes after 2001, and started making the wine in Oregon rather than shipping it to California for processing. The results include the widely available 2002 Willamette Valley Estate bottling (91, $22). It's dramatically aromatic, plays its ripe flavors against firm tannins and promises much with bottle age. Van Duzer's 2003s, tasted from barrel, are at least as good. Also in March, I had a taste of the most recent vintage, 2003. I encountered more than a few samples that were still sweet, as their primary fermentations had not finished. The '03 growing season was so hot that the grapes got too ripe in many vineyards. The best 2003s will be from growers and winemakers who managed to keep their fruit from raisining and developing too much sugar. The word I hear most from winemakers about 2003 is "challenging." "2003 was the hardest vintage since 1997," says Sam Tannahill, who makes wine for Shea Wine Cellars and has his own label, Francis Tannahill. "It was so hot, and the grapes were so ripe. You didn't have that slow, long, consistent hang time." "The challenge was dealing with sugar," says Ken Wright of Ken Wright Cellars. "We had to find yeast strains that were tolerant of higher alcohols." Wright's wines, in barrel, show refreshing balance and finesse despite the elevated alcohol levels. "The 2003s are pretty, but not in a schoolgirl sort of way. They're more of a slinky bombshell in an evening gown," he says. Many winemakers noticed that older vineyards did better in 2003 than younger vineyards planted with Dijon clones imported from Burgundy in the 1990s. "For most of us, I think it's vine age more than anything else," says Don Lange of Lange Winery. "The vineyards with Pommard clones are the ones with deep roots and older, stable vines. The first Dijon clones were only planted 10 years ago." Lange's were planted in 2000. But Rollin Soles, who makes the wines at Argyle, thinks that the traditional Oregon clones, Pommard and Wadenswil, were able to adapt to the heat better than the Dijon clones, which are geared to ripen sooner. In Argyle's Lonestar vineyard, where the old and new clones are planted in adjacent blocks, a sample of the Pommard clone wine is tight, focused and wonderfully redolent of cherry, while wines from Dijon clones 667 and 777 come off as exotic and distorted. And then there is Tony Soter, who made his name in California in the 1980s and 1990s consulting on big-name Cabernet Sauvignons and with his own Etude label. He sold that in 1999 and bet the farm on Oregon Pinot Noir. I found his 1997, 1998 and 1999 wines excessively tough and tannic, but he has made great strides in taming the rough streak. "We find that tannin in the wine correlates with how much you beat up the grapes," says Soter, ladling out a pot of soup in his newly built home facing the vines on Beacon Hill. "So we've been concentrating on fewer and gentler punch downs during fermentation, less maceration afterwards." A vertical tasting reveals the development. The Soter Vineyards 1999, released last year, shows grippy tannins around a lovely core of fruit. I rated it 87 points. The 2000, to be released later this year, has darker fruit and is much more supple. There will be no 2001. "The grapes were so big and the wine showed a little hollowness," Soter says. "It was not the caliber we wanted. We bit the bullet and sold it off." The 2002, still in barrel, shows wonderful raspberry and plum aromas and a jazzy, racy mouthful of bright flavors that last and last on the finish. The wine should be Soter's calling card for years to come, another legacy of an outstanding vintage. Editor at large Harvey Steiman is Wine Spectator's lead taster on the wines of Oregon. Top Wines Wine Score Price BEAUX FR�RES Pinot Noir Willamette Valley The Beaux Fr�res Vineyard 2002 95 $75 Big, ripe and mouthwatering, with acidity bringing harmony to the plum, blackberry, cherry and dusky spice flavors. BEAUX FR�RES Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Belles Soeurs Shea Vineyard 2002 94 $50 Rich and seductive, with fresh plum, blackberry and subtle spice flavors that stay ripe and supple on the long finish. BERGSTR�M Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Arcus Vineyard 2002 94 $85 Rich and plush, with wild berry and cherry; black pepper and green olive flavors mingle on the fine-grained finish. ARCHERY SUMMIT Pinot Noir Oregon Archery Summit Estate 2001 93 $150 Strong grip of tannins, but underneath it delivers a glowing core of plum, raspberry, pepper and black olive flavors. ARCHERY SUMMIT Pinot Noir Oregon Arcus Estate 2001 93 $75 Juicy, ripe blackberry and peppery, floral flavors, rich and distinctive, almost aggressive. Tannins are nicely submerged. BERGSTR�M Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Bergstr�m Vineyard 2002 93 $60 Almost opaque, but not heavy-handed. Supple, with dark plum and hints of cherry and sassafras. Fine-grained tannins. CHEHALEM Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Rion Reserve 2001 93 $50 Supple, with rich black cherry, rose petal and pepper flavors; unhampered by anything resembling obvious tannins. BERGSTR�M Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Cumberland Reserve 2002 92 $32 After a blast of chewy tannins, rich black cherry, plum and tar flavors well up and bathe the finish as it lingers. CARLTON CELLARS Pinot Noir Oregon Roads End 2002 92 $38 Generous and well-focused, with clear blueberry, plum and subtle spice flavors. Fine tannins and a long finish. CRISTOM Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Eileen Vineyard 2001 92 $40 Elegant, with velvety, ripe blackberry and currant flavors. Fine tannins let the fruit and gentle earthy flavors linger. GYPSY DANCER Pinot Noir Oregon Yamhill Cuv�e A & G Estate Vineyard 2002 92 $70 Smooth, silky and open-textured, with sweet plum, blackberry and currant fruit, with mocha notes from spicy oak. OWEN ROE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 92 $36 Ripe and focused, with a bright core of blackberry and currant, shading the aromas with hints of meaty roasted game. SHEA Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Block 23 2002 92 $48 Gentle, supple and refined, generous with its spicy plum and lingonberry flavors, finishing with well-modulated tannins. VAN DUZER Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Homestead Block 2002 92 $32 Plump and generous, with currant, white pepper and spice flavors that linger beautifully on the fine-grained finish. Smart Buys Wine Score Price PONZI Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Tavola 2002 91 $15 Open-textured and deftly balanced; currant, plum and white pepper flavors emerge uncontested by fine-grained tannins. VAN DUZER Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Estate 2002 91 $22 Dramatically aromatic, brimming with black cherry, hinting at smoke and spices as the flavors play against firm tannins. ARGYLE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 90 $18 Smooth and round, plush but not overwhelming, keeping its musky cherry, plum and tobacco flavors in harmony. PATRICIA GREEN Pinot Noir Oregon 2002 90 $19 Meaty, slightly gamy flavors around a rich core of raspberry and currant fruit, which lingers on the generous finish. PONZI Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2002 89 $13 Has more layers than most Pinot Gris, offering earthy pear, melon and pepper flavors in a smooth package. TORII MOR Pinot Noir Oregon 2001 89 $17 Tangy and pretty, with a strawberry jam note and a touch of rhubarb and cranberry on the smooth, well-knit finish. WILLAKENZIE Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2002 89 $18 Supple, round and generous with its peach, cantaloupe and perfumy, citrusy overtones, finishing silky. CHEHALEM Chardonnay Willamette Valley INOX 2002 88 $15 Soft and gentle, with pretty pear and floral flavors, with no interference from oak. Persistent, well-balanced finish. SILVAN RIDGE Early Muscat Oregon Semi-Sparkling 2002 88 $14 Light and effervescent, sweet and fragrant, with litchi, spice and pear flavors that remain balanced and lively. Best Values Wine Score Price A TO Z WINEWORKS Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2002 87 $11 Light, bright and open, very fruity, with pretty pear and floral flavors, finishing with a nice touch of green melon. WILLAMETTE VALLEY Pinot Noir Oregon Whole Cluster 2003 87 $15 Lively, youthful style brims with cherry and dark berry flavors, framed by fine-grained tannins. O'REILLY'S Pinot Gris Oregon 2002 86 $11 Bright and juicy, with fresh honeydew melon and cucumber flavors lingering on the finish. OAK KNOLL Pinot Gris Willamette Valley 2002 86 $10 Contrasting ripe fruit and tangy flavors in this tasty, smooth-textured white; a bit pumped up, but fun to drink. DUCK POND Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2002 85 $9 Light, fresh and appealing for its strawberry and raspberry fruit, which lingers on the tangy finish. EOLA HILLS Pinot Gris Oregon 2002 85 $8 Soft, with spicy melon and delicate orange flavors. -- ------------------------------ * * Dr. James Lee Ellingson, Adjunct Professor jellings(a)me.umn.edu * * University of Minnesota, tel: 651/645-0753 fax 651 XXX XXXX * * Great Lakes Brewing News, 1569 Laurel Ave., St. Paul, MN 55104 * ----- End forwarded message -----

21 years, 4 months

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win August 2004