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A Strong, Hearty Drink Deserves a Strong, Hearty Meal
September 17, 2003
By AMANDA HESSER
PRUNE, a restaurant in the East Village, serves a dish of
buttered brown bread with salted onions and goat's-milk
cheese. Diners assemble the dish to their taste. Some like
lots of onion. Some go straight for the cheese. No matter
which way you choose, it's a hearty dish. Add a bottle of
stout and you have a fine meal.
Stout seems made to go with these simple foods. There is a
certain bluntness to stout. Some stouts' aromas are
reminiscent of buttered toast. Others have a lot of
molasses and chocolate in them. A few are fruity and
herbal. Almost none are subtle.
Stouts have a big finish and many last long after you've
drunk them, so serving mild flavors with this beer would be
pointless. If you have never made a chili dog, now is the
time. Buy sweet and yeasty hot dog rolls, make a mildly
spiced chili, get good quality hot dogs and repress any
snobbish feelings. Or, if you don't feel like making chili,
an easier dish would be saut�ed bratwurst served with good
mustard and rye bread.
Pork is a natural fit for stout, and a little acidity
contrasts well with this beer. So if chili dogs are not
your thing, roast pork tenderloins and make a pan sauce
with sliced shallots, chopped thyme and red wine. Have a
little spinach (saut�ed in butter) on the side.
CHILI FOR CHILI DOGS
Time: 1 hour
1 tablespoon olive
oil
1/4 pound pancetta, chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1/2 red pepper, finely chopped
2 dried ancho chilies, soaked in hot water for 15 minutes,
seeded and chopped
1 pound ground beef
1 tablespoon chili powder
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1
teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1 tablespoon chopped oregano
2 plum tomatoes, seeded and
chopped
1/2 cup tomato sauce
1/2 cup beef broth
1/2 cup beer
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar.
1. Warm
olive oil and pancetta in large pan over medium heat. Cook
until pancetta has rendered its fat. Remove with slotted
spoon. Add onion, garlic, pepper and chilies to pan, cook
until onions are soft and translucent, about 10 minutes.
Spread beef in pan, and cook until no longer pink, and
beginning to brown.
2. Stir in pancetta, chili powder, cumin, paprika, allspice
and oregano. Add tomatoes and tomato sauce, then stir in
broth and beer. Simmer for 35 to 45 minutes, stirring
occasionally, more often at the end. Chili is done when
liquid has reduced and sauce just coats ingredients. Stir
in vinegar, and season to taste with salt. Shut off heat,
and rewarm gently when ready to spoon on hot dogs.
Yield: Enough for 8 hot dogs.
http://www.nytimes.com/2003/09/17/dining/17PAIR.html?ex=1064901155&ei=1…
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