SATURDAY, JUNE 21
Saturday morning came early, as today was going to be my first (and only!)
day of attending seminars, and I didn't want to miss one minute of the ones
I had picked out. The seminars were to start at 9am, and Trixie wanted to
have breakfast with me before we split up for the day. We woke at about
8am, and went down to the hotel restaurant to have breakfast. I stuck with
the breakfast buffet, since it had been so good the day before. Trixie
said she was going to attend some of the afternoon seminars, but was
planning to do some yoga, swimming, and sunning during the morning. It was
another 75 degree, beautiful sunny day outside. As we ate breakfast, we
made plans to meet at the Cheese and Beer seminar. I vowed to save a seat
for her as we parted for the morning.
There was a seminar that was to take all morning "BOOT CAMP FOR BREWERS",
to be led by Charlie Papazian with a host of guest speakers on various
topics. It looked fun, but I knew it would be very crowded, and I knew
also that several other BeerBussers were planning on attending that one and
could brief us on the doings there later. I also hoped that the
individual Tech Topic seminars would be more in depth, so I opted to take
that course instead.
I made my way downstairs in the hotel to find the Water seminar, to be led
by Al Korzonas, author of "Homebrewing, Volume One". I ended up sitting
next to Bob Cromer (n.b.n.a - no bowling name available), and I recall
remarking to him that the guy must be pretty good or else extremely cocky
to name his first book "Volume One". I told Bob that I had lunch with Al
and some of the other Chicago Beer Society guys at Rock Bottom Chicago when
I had been there a couple years earlier for the first round AHA Nationals.
Al had ordered the sampler at Rock Bottom, and had proceeded to judge and
SCORE them all on his Visor handheld! (I was out on Al's website today,
and he says (as of that writing) he has now judged and scored 151
commercial beers and stored them in his Visor. If you're going to be a
beer author, I guess that's the thing you've got to do.
Al's seminar was very informative. Brewing water is one thing I haven't
really grasped beyond add a teaspoon of Gypsum to the mash, and a teaspoon
of phosphoric acid to the sparge. I know logically that this is not the
proper procedure for EVERY conceivable type of beer, but until now I
haven't really understood the chemistry of brewing water by styles, and how
I might emulate traditional brewing waters by style within my brewery. Al
started out very simply, starting his lecture with what water is GOOD to
brew with, and what water is BAD to brew with. His lecture and PowerPoint
slides rapidly got into the whys and wherefores, and he also distributed
handouts with the information he was presenting. He promised to make his
Powerpoint presentation available on his website shortly after the
conference, because time did not allow his printing a copy of his 25-page
presentation for every attendee after he finished it at 3am that
morning....
A couple of the handouts I recognized from Al's book, but a couple of them
were new information. The best one, I thought, was a grid that had "YOUR
WATER" across the top, in five broad categories, and STYLE down the left
side, listing out almost all BJCP brewing styles. The grid was then filled
in with letters ranging from A to P, with a key at the bottom relating each
letter to a particular water treatment called for based on "YOUR WATER" and
the "STYLE" that you were trying to brew. I have pinned that page up in my
brewery, and this one chart probably has made the cost of the seminar
worthwhile to me. I still can't say I totally understand ions and pH and
acidity and alkalinity and hard and soft water as well as I probably
should, but I have the poor man's understanding available to me now in this
until that understanding strikes in fact. Al also passed around two beers,
made identically except for their water, but he said that they didn't
illustrate their point as well as they could have, and honestly I could not
tell that much difference between the two.
The next seminar I wanted to attend Saturday morning was on the Bittering
Properties of Hops by Dave Wills of FresHops. It was in the same room, and
as I had pretty good seats, I just stayed put. Bob Cromer (n.b.n.a) was
staying put too. The first half of Dave's presentation was a slide show of
various hop fields, hop types, and hop harvesting and processing equipment.
It was very interesting, but I have seen these types of pictures before,
and I can't help but believe that most of the people in that room already
knew what hops looked like in their growing stage.
The second half of Dave's lecture was more to the point - using hops in
homebrewing, but it was not very practical in nature. Dave did pass around
two glasses of some leftover light ales from the competition, and some hop
extract he had made by boiling two different types of hops in water -
Hallertau was one, and I forget what the other was - Columbus maybe? We
were to put about an ounce of the extract into about 2 ounces of the beer,
after first tasting the base beer, and then note the difference we
perceived. More bitter and hop-flavory! Surprise! It was interesting to
note the difference between the two different hops however.
Dave also passed around some hop rhizomes. He said that a lot of people
make a mistake when planting hop rhizomes, and plant them with the "shoots"
facing down. He said the shoots are actually what will become the hop
VINES, and they need to be planted facing UP. Cromer then blushed and said
"Oops!" I'm sure he wasn't the only one in the room!
Dave also spoke of some common hop-related problems, and some easy ways to
solve them. I forget the problem (hop mite, maybe?), but he said the
solution is to spray a light dishsoap and water solution on the leaves,
before the hop cones start budding.
The third seminar of the morning that I wished to attend, "Yeast Character
and Beer Styles", was also in the same room. Taking advantage of the fact
that I already had a seat (the room was now starting to be SRO), I ran
around the corner to the Hospitality suite to get a beer. It was almost
11am by now after all, and all I'd had to drink so far was some doctored
water beer and some doctored hop beer. Dr. Chris White, founder and owner
of White Labs yeasts was to give this presentation, and there were a lot of
people there for it. I was particularly interested because Dr. White was
one of the people we'd discussed as a possibility for the keynote speaker
of the Upper Mississippi Mash-Out competition in 2004.
Chris spoke very eloquently and practically about yeast. He echoed
something we'd heard a week earlier at Mid-America Malting: that if you
want your beer to taste DIFFERENT from your other beers, use DIFFERENT
ingredients! He said a lot of breweries (homebrewers and commercial
brewers) use the same yeast culture for all of their beers. He spoke of
all the different qualities of the different strains of yeast, and how they
can affect your final product: flocculation, attenuation, "clean" vs.
"fruity" ferments, cold (lager) vs. warm (ale) yeasts, and then - Belgians!
I was interested to hear him talk about the different yeasts for Wheat
Beers - how some give more perceived "banana" aroma and flavor than others,
and how fermentation temperatures play a huge role in all yeast
perceptions.
One of the clubs (I forget which) had made several batches of beer, all
with the same wort, but with many different strains of yeast. Dr. White
mentioned it in the beginning, and all of the mini-kegs with the experiment
were set up at the front of the room, but it wasn't mentioned again until
the end, and it wasn't distributed. The line for them was so big once the
talk was over that I did not try to get close to them. Darn. That would
have been interesting.
There was a lunch break after the Yeast seminar. I went to get another
beer from the Hospitality Suite, and found one brewer had set up a table
there with the results from his cider experiment. He had made 9 different
ciders from the same juice, with nine different commonly used cider yeasts.
He had a couple tubs of 12-oz bottles, numbered 1-9, the output of his
experiment, and also had a printed sheet with the different yeasts he had
used, and a few brief comments he had made regarding his perceptions of the
outcome of each one. I wanted to taste them ALL, but I didn't want to
bogart 9 bottles by myself, so I found a few other people who were likewise
interested in trying them all, and off we went to find a table. Hank from
the MhBA joined me, and about 6 of us made our way through the nine sample
bottles. It was very interesting - all of the ciders were good, most of
them dry. But some of them definitely had more of an "apple" character, or
a "tart" character, or an "acidic" character than the others. I
marked the
comparison sheet with the yeasts I liked best and tucked it away with my
other notes of most valuable things to bring home from the conference. I
also grabbed three more bottles of the ones I liked best and took it on the
lam!
I went to look for Trixie, and found her doing laps in the pool. I asked
her if she'd like to join me for lunch outside on the hotel patio, and she
agreed. I went to the hotel snack bar and got a mini-pizza and a Rachael
sandwich (which turned out to actually be a roast beef sandwich by the time
I got it outside.) Hank joined us for lunch also. Trixie is a big fan of
hard cider, and I proudly displayed my booty from the hospitality room for
her. We shared one of the bottles over lunch, and I left the other two for
her to take back up to the room. Hank and I wolfed down lunch, as it was
almost time for the afternoon seminars to begin, and we were quite certain
the ones we wanted - those pairing beer with different foods - were going
to be very crowded.
Being a fan of Emeril's on the Food Network on cable, I suggested we take
front-row seats. On Emeril, it seems only the people in the front row get
to sample what he is cooking! This turned out to be a wise strategem on my
part, because although everyone in the seminar was going to get a sample of
the "eats", the front row was going to get them first! Also, some of the
leftovers were put on the front table - within easy reach of the front
row.... Jay and Moe from the BeerBus were in the row directly behind Hank
and me.
The 1pm seminar was "Cooking With Beer", by Lucy Saunders. Lucy published
a book by the same title, but unfortunately she didn't have any copies with
her at the conference. Too Bad! She could've sold a few hundred of them!
As we walked in the room, volunteers (including Meadmkr, from the BeerBus)
were handing out appetizers which included caramelized barley and wasabi
peas, amongst other things. Very mouth watering - and not ONLY because
Wasabi peas contain so much MSG! Lucy spoke about the different ways you
can approach cooking with food - either by pairing the food with a beer
that COMPLEMENTS the dish, or else by pairing the food with a beer that
CONTRASTS with the dish.
Lucy had prepared a cold salad topped with Nueske's smoked duck that had
been marinated in TEN BOTTLES! of New Glarus Raspberry Tart! It was
delicious! Especially because we had just toured New Glarus on the
BeerBus, and had tasted the beer BEFORE it had been used in cooking. The
smokiness and saltiness of the duck were still present, and the sweetness
and flavor of the Raspberry Tart contrasted with the duck very nicely. As
I'd guessed, they served the front row first. We had one little mishap as
we were passing the plates down the row - the guy I was passing to decided
to fold his arms instead of continuing the passing momentum - and they came
down right on a plate of salad and he ended up WEARING the salad instead of
eating it! Actually, most of it was saved, and he saved that plate for
himself as his fingers were picking up all the bits off his clothes and
chair....
Lucy had a little audience participation - giving prizes to the first
people who were able to give her "B"-word ways to cook food with beer.
Braising, Baking, Basting, Broiling, ... and two others won. BOILING,
however, got a big thumbs down, as she said boiling eliminates much of the
beer flavor and concentrates the hop bitterness of the beer. This was a
very interesting seminar - I wished it could have gone longer than an hour.
The next seminar was to feature Garrett Oliver, author of "The Brewmaster's
Table". I admit that I did not know much about Garrett Oliver before this
seminar, other than he had appeared on Emeril Live and one or two other
cooking shows. I didn't know whether he was a chef that liked beer, a
brewer who liked food, or some other animal.
Garrett was introduced as being the brewmaster of the Brooklyn Brewery in
New York, and came out swinging. He spoke how we had become a nation used
to eating and drinking not "real" foods and beverages, but
"facsimilies".
He used bread as an example, asking us how long bread lasted. The answer -
a day or two. Then he asked how long "Wonder Bread" lasted - 3, maybe 4
weeks? And with holes in the bread so uniform it looked as though they had
been mechanically placed there. He spoke of having pork gravy so good as a
youth that it nearly gave you an orgasm, then he told us that the pigs that
produced that pork are nearly extinct now, and the pork sold today a
flavorless, cardboard specimen by comparison. He spoke of turkeys today
being bred with breasts so large that they could no longer walk or keep
themselves upright. And he spoke of beer. Of what is being advertised to
us as beer. He said that he didn't become a brewer because he wanted to be
a brewer. He said that he had lived in Europe for several years while in
school. When he came home, he found that there was no "beer" left in
America - only "facsimile" beer, a pale imitation of actual beer. The only
way he could get beer like he had been drinking in Europe was to brew it
himself, and that's how he got started in brewing. This resonated with me
- this is EXACTLY the reason, and the conditions, that I began brewing.
Garrett said he is now a representative of an organization called "SLOW
FOOD" - a group extolling the shunning of "facsimile" foods and beverages,
and a need to return to the Real Things.
The rest of Garrett's speech was about pairing food with beer, as compared
to cooking with beer. Garrett echoed what Lucy had said in her speech -
that the ways to pair food and beer was to COMPLEMENT and CONTRAST. He
spoke of beer vs. wine as a mealtime beverage, and how the wine people
would have us believe that wine is the best complement to a good meal. He
said beer is a much better choice - because beers have a RAINBOW of colors,
aromas, textures and flavors from which to choose, where wine has just a
wedge of that rainbow to work with. He related a story of his competition
with some of the best sommelliers of New York City, where they were
challenged to come up with the best food/beverage pairings, and his choices
of beers with the dishes won almost every time.
Garrett is a very enthusiastic and colorful speaker. All of the copies of
his book were sold out at the conference, and the autograph line was very
long. I would look forward to hearing him again sometime, and I'm looking
forward to reading his book (I bought a copy and got it autographed.)
As soon as Garrett's seminar was over, the front of the room became a mass
of confusion as volunteers brought in several tables laden with nine
different types of cheeses in preparation for the next seminar, "BEER AND
CHEESE", to be given by Giles Schnierle, Annette May. Trixie came to join
me during this seminar, as did Oomtirggg and Omahbgg. After the tables
were set, many cases of different kinds of beer were brought in, and were
opened and poured into glasses. As this was underway, Giles and Annette
began their talk.
They also spoke of the two ways to approach pairing Cheese and Beer - the
COMPLEMENTARY method and the CONTRASTING method. For example, they had a
smoked cheese which they paired with a smoked Rauchbier to illustrate how
like tastes can be complementary. They also had an 8-year old sharp,
pungent cheddar, so old that it had crystallized, that they paired with a
big, sweet, malty barleywine (my FAVORITE pairing, by the way, and Trixie's
too!) They handed out yet another interesting thing that definitely made
the convention worthwhile - a "Wheel" of cheese and beer, produced by the
Wisconsin Cheese Board, that lined up which beers make the best pairings
for different kinds of cheeses. I would love to use that, with the
memories I have of this seminar, to have a Beer and Cheese party sometime
at our home soon! Giles and Annette cut their speech short, and released
the horde to sack their bountiful beer and cheese tables.
PANDEMONIUM ENSUED!! No one had figured out that getting 200 or so people
past 5 or 6 tables in a very confined space with no direction or traffic
flow was going to be chaos! Being 6'3", I was able to see the openings and
work my way in to the spaces at all of the tables, but poor Trixie at 5'2"
was swallowed like a rowboat in a hurricane. At first I tried to hand back
samples of the beer and cheese to her, but I soon lost track of where she
was standing in the swarming masses. To make matters worse, some people
just STOOD IN FRONT OF THE TABLE sampling their beer and cheese, rather
than move to the back when they had their sample. No one was killed, but
it was a lucky thing!
That having been said, the tasting was a marvelous success, I already
expressed my favorite to you, but to mention some others they had a
horseradish cheese that was paired with an ancient lambic that was a very
interesting combination, some sort of creamy, milky cheese that I think was
paired with an Old Ale. I can't recall the other five pairings at the
moment. As the line subsided, there was some room to go back and sample
your favorite cheeses, but many of the beers they had been paired with were
all poured out. This seminar, despite the disorganization, was one of the
highlights of the conference for me. Mmmm good!
The detrius was cleared as the smoke was rising... and organization of the
next seminar got underway - "Beer and Chocolate", with Fred Eckhardt. Fred
is one of the Grandfathers of the homebrew movement - I had met him and had
a chance to chat with him earlier in the year at the Kansas City
Biermeister's 20th anniversary Homebrew Competition, and he is a charming,
intelligent, and very interesting man. He is also famous for his "Beer and
Chocolate" seminar, so I knew if they didn't do something different, this
seminar's organization would be an even bigger "cluster" than the Cheese
seminar.
Fortunately, conference organizers saw the problem, and quickly learned and
adapted from the earlier mistake. The last 5-6 rows of chairs were cleared
out of the back of the room, and the Chocolate tables were arranged, this
time, on both ends. Fred was directing the volunteers where to put each
chocolate and each beer, and after he saw the change in the floor plan and
a few false starts, the organization began to take shape. Fred started
speaking, apologizing first that he didn't have any handouts to tell anyone
which beer would be paired with which chocolates, but he said there would
be a page describing each combination placed in front of the appropriate
tables. With very little ado, he announced that he would be giving his
lecture as we sampled his wares. And the race was on.
The traffic flowed much more smoothly this time. Though there was still no
direction given to the audience (ie, COUNTER-CLOCKWISE, etc), with the
samples spread out around the room, there was much better access to each
table. Trixie sat down after collecting her first sample to enjoy and
appreciate it rather than gulp it down, and that became an opportunity for
me to fetch back samples of each beer/chocolate pairing for her. (Trixie
HATES crowds!) This made her much happier. I wish I could remember the
beers that were being poured for tasting with each chocolate. There were
fudge brownies, peanut butter cups, cream-filled truffles... it was truly
marvelous. The BEST PART of the seminar though was Fred, and I'm sorry
that through the din I couldn't hear all of it. Fred has collected, over
the years, hundreds of the best chocolate witticisms and put them into a
text that he calls, "THE RULES OF CHOCOLATE". These include such bon mots
as, "If you drink beer while eating chocolate, their calories cancel each
other out", and "When storing chocolate, store them up high. Calories have
a fear of heights, and they will leave the chocolate and plunge to their
deaths." I have vowed to email Fred and see if he would share not only his
beer/chocolate pairings with me that he had at the seminar, but also the
text of his "Rules of Chocolate". He should publish a book!
The last conference seminar was over - only one part of the conference,
remained, "REAL BEER, REAL FOOD". Also, Adolph, our driver, was due back
Saturday afternoon, so I went down to the hotel front desk and made sure he
had made it in safely and was registered. I called Adolph and made plans
for our return trip the next day and for packing the bus. Then, a little
nap was in order before the evening's festivities, and Trixie and I headed
back up to the hotel room for a rest.
The Real Beer, Real Food night was a part of the conference, but tickets to
it were also sold separately to the general public. It was billed as
vendors presenting Beer and Food pairings, and a few of them did that. It
seemed that mostly there were deli's, with a LOT of sausage, cold cuts,
etc, and some beer vendors scattered in between. Much of it was good, but
largely "snack" type food. The bad news was that we had planned this event
as our dinner for the evening. The good news was that we were still so
filled from the cheese and chocolate seminar that it didn't really matter
much. The REALLY bad news was that it was mostly very "gassy" food.... so
much so that in an email from BeerBusser Don after our return, he offered
the suggestion that attendees to the next conference wear "charcoal
filtered underpants" if they were planning on hanging around people after
this type of event. Good call Don!
There were a few interesting items - they had a cheesecake made with beer
(stout, I think, if memory serves.) The couple who did the Beer with
Cheese seminar earlier in the day had a booth, and they had some of their
interesting cheeses there. Rogue brewery had many beers there also. As
the event drew to a close, some of us ran around and were scarfing up loose
bottles and hiding them in Oomtirggg's mobile jockey box, which had somehow
made it's way onto the floor.
The conference committee made an announcement that they wanted to empty the
Refer truck Saturday night. It would have been nice to have known this
earlier, but it was no big deal. We spread the word to the BeerBussers to
meet at the truck at 9pm, and I made arrangements for Adolph to bring the
bus around so we could load up our kegs. Many hands make short work, and
we reloaded the kegs on the bus quickly. It was actually a relief to have
that part done - it would make our 9am departure Sunday morning that much
easier. Oomtirggg kept his jockey box out, however, and we kept sucking on
that the rest of the night. It had started acquiring a personality -
Oomtirggg had begun getting signatures on it from beer personalities -
Charlie Papazian, Michael Jackson, Ray Daniels, etc. I'm sure it will
become a standard fixture at all future beer events in the club!
Trixie retired up to the room, and I promised I would meet her up there for
a late night cocktail after the bus was loaded... but one beer led to
another, and after they closed up the Real Beer, Real Food room, the party
migrated imperceptibly down to the Hospitality Room, which was billed
tonite as the "Leftover Beer" room. There were probably 30 taps going in
there, leftover sausage and cheese from the Real Beer event (which NOBODY
in the room needed by now, gas-wise!), and still several hundred leftover
bottles of competition beer. Ray Daniels had an experimental beer there,
made with no hops, and had been fermenting it for all of 3 or 4 days. It
was pretty horrid and looked milky - but he claimed that this is how all
beer would have been at some point in brewing history. Three Cheers for
technology!!! Let's hope we never have to revert to that! It rolled
around to 1am, and OOPS! I remembered my date waiting for me upstairs!
That's what happens when beer is involved!
Luckily Trixie wasn't too mad at me - room service had just arrived with
some shrimp cocktails and some Cosmopolitans. I know it's sacrilege, but
it was nice to drink something other than beer after four solid days of
drinking nothing but. So much so that we called room service and ordered
another pair of them. It wasn't until I was checking out the next day that
I found the Cosmopolitans, via room service, were ELEVEN DOLLARS A PIECE!
Gulp! Word to your mother - next time, stick to beer!!
The Cosmopolitans went down too smooth, and pretty soon it was Sunday
morning....
Thus endeth the fourth day of the BeerBus trip....
NEW PICTURES posted of the trip - the "missing roll" from the beginning of
the trip, including the group shot of the BeerBussers as we embarked on the
tour...
http://photomail.photoworks.com/sharing/album.asp?Key=1~FQQ4aBru.cIHmzZZHpV…