Notes from the 2003 European Brewing Study Tour:
a.. Sleep deprivation is a good substitute for narcotic use, and has
similar effects. With only about 12 hours sleep over the last 4 days, this
keyboard looks like a stack of Scrabble tiles.
b.. Whatever you order in German restaurants, you will receive some sort
of pork product in it. Salad, mineral water, even the tofu milkshake must,
by some sort of unwritten law, contain at least 4 ounces of pork. If you
order pork, they ask you if you would like a side order of pork to accompany
it. I think the Pork Marketing Board must be Germanys biggest lobby group.
c.. Brewpubs are increasingly common in Germany. AirBrau at the Munich
airport serves damn fine hefeweizen, and is so busy that they brew 7 days a
week just to meet their in-house needs. Their Doppelporkweizen is also
lovely, but it was a little porky for my tastes. Brewpubs here have
amazingly ornate design, with brilliantly polished copper everywhere. You
have to love a country that takes such pride in presentation to build &
maintain such systems.
d.. The visit to Brauerei Fritz Gutmann in Titting (dont laugh at the
town name) has so far been the high point of the tour. Hundreds of years
old, this traditional-looking brewery hides a huge state-of-the-art
commercial brewing system in a series of subterranean caves. The quality
of their beer (especially their weizenbock) is exceptional, much of it owing
to the fact that they have their own in-house maltings. Hospitality was
tremendous, with a breakfast of white sausages & big-ass pretzels coated in
pork chips presented to starving students along with a continuous stream of
Bavarian beer.
e.. The students are having a great time, with much off-key singing &
drunken multinationalism being practiced. There has been much
adventure-seeking at night, making the morning role call of critical
importance in order to assure that all students have been accounted for
before traveling to the next town. We have lost only three so far, which is
a fairly good average.
f.. Our overnighter in the Czech Republic was far too abbreviated to get
much of a feel for the country. Roads are fast & dangerously narrow, and are
populated by Soviet-era cars seemingly powered by lawn mower engines.
Something in the water seems to be hostile to hair, with my morning shower
resulting in a hairstyle that gives me a decidedly cubic appearance.
g.. Did both the Budvar Brewery and Pilsner Urquell in one day.
Experiencing both beers at the peak of freshness was beautiful. The Budvar
brewery is in a transitory phase, with uncompleted facility improvements
showing a shocking level of dilapidation. State ownership appears to have
let the place run down, but the head brewer informed us that the facility
will be stunning by the time the upgrades are complete. We didnt tour
Urquell, but had dinner in their huge restaurant facility. Damn fine beer,
and it was a kick watching the throngs of local blue-haired regulars
waltzing to the live band playing marginal hits from the 1970s.
h.. Hamburg was a cool city, comprised of luxury shopping malls,
historic buildings, and porn stores. It is strange that a nation with so
many churches has so much porn. I guess you need something to confess every
now and then.
i.. Duesseldorf & Belgium today. Will have a beer for all of you. Maybe
two.
Keith More Pork, Please Lemcke
Siebel Institute of Technology
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