6 Jan
2015
6 Jan
'15
6:30 p.m.
I agree with Dave. As far as the campden tablets, I just add it to my cider
when I'm cold crashing. I'll come in another 24 hours later and give it a
shake in the keg to distribute it. You can also get granular campden as
well.
On Tue, Jan 6, 2015 at 10:22 AM, Dave Royer <dave(a)droyer.org> wrote:
Alexey,
I don't know if I'll answer all the questions but I'll get some that I can
help with.
I just add the nutrients as they are, directly to the must. No boiling, no
crushing, just dumping using a spoon. I can't believe the nutrients provide
a very good growth medium. Yes, there is a small chance of infection but we
are in the middle of very active fermentation or you are just pitching a
ton of yeast compared to the small possibility of a tiny amount of
infection taking hold.
I do this process for all the additions. In my reading of resources, like
Steve Piatz's mead book most recently, this is the recommended method.
Dave
On Mon, Jan 5, 2015 at 3:55 PM, Alexey Korovinskiy <
alex(a)akmicrosolutions.com> wrote:
Hello fellow brewers.
I have a couple of questions and would be interested in hearing your
opinions regarding nutrient addition in to ciders, meads etc. If you can
please address all the questions so I don't have to re-send same question
over and over.
Do I need to add nutrients to boiling water and then pour that in to the
must (after chilling)? This goes for initial addition and consequent
staggered additions.
Does boiling water ruin the nutrients?
If I don’t boil it and use a teaspoon to add powders directly in to my
fermenter, don’t I run a risk of infection?
DAP does not seem to dissolve in water very well. Do I need to crush it
even further? Or will it dissolve in my must just fine?
If I am adding campden or potassium sorbate:
- Should I dissolve it in boiling water, chill it and then add it?
- Or dissolve it in boiled and chilled water?
- Or just add it directly in to the fermenter in powder form?
Thank you,
--
Alexey Korovinskiy
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