Traditional Beer Claims Comeback as Tastes Change
Aug 4, 9:37 am ET
By Jeremy Lovell
LONDON (Reuters) - Traditional beer drinkers are changing in substance,
style and shape.
Disappearing fast are the hairy, heavy-bellied beer-swillers of yesteryear,
their place being taken by young urban professional men and women more
normally associated with wine and working out.
One-third of the 45,000 real ale enthusiasts expected to attend this year's
annual Great British Beer Festival at London's Olympia run by the beer
purists Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) are likely to be women.
"CAMRA is often seen as sandals, beer-bellies and beards. But that is not
true today," the organization's chief executive Mike Benner told Reuters on
the opening night. "The truth has changed. The image, unfortunately, has
not."
That does not mean they will hold back. Over the five days of the event,
people will sink some 200,000 pints of beer.
And it is not just in Britain, that sees itself as the guardian of
traditional brewing, that real ales are making a comeback against
mass-produced lagers.
Even in the United States, where a handful of giant brewers like
Anheuser-Busch have dominated the beer market for decades, the taste for
distinctive real ales is rising.
"Demand for cask-conditioned beer is small but it is growing," Jonathan
Tuttle, U.S. representative of the Bieres Sans Frontieres (BSF) organization
told Reuters.
"I guess the demand is mainly from young professionals and it is the micro
brewers that are driving the change," he added.
BSF groups small brewers from the United States, Africa, Asia and Australia
as they move from one beer festival to another touting their wares and
sampling the competition.
Tuttle said he too had noticed a distinct slimming down of the classic beer
drinkers' profile -- including his own -- and attributed the change in part
to maturity and in part to a greater health consciousness among consumers of
all ages.
Across Europe too the demand for beers with a traditional taste is growing
even as the overall market for beer stagnates.
The European Beer Consumers Union (EBCU) boasts members in Britain, the
Netherlands, Belgium, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Switzerland, Finland, Poland,
Austria and Italy, and anticipates that the Czech Republic and Latvia will
also soon sign up.
"Our membership is growing -- mainly among people in their early 20s," EBCU
representative Richard Larkin said. "But these are not binge drinkers. These
are people who know what they want -- and that is good food and drink."