I have been brewing with converted kegs for quite a
while now. I think one thing you can do to prevent the
temperature line fractures is to use a moderate BTU
stove (I use the superb 35,000 BTU model) and perhaps
have a few extra kegs ready in case you have a
problem. I do use a higher BTU stove for my hot
liquor, but I pay attention that I do not heat the keg
to red hot or even close. So far so good.
I agree that kettles are a better choice than kegs,
but kegs are definitely more budget friendly.
Cheers
WH
--- Rick Oftel <Rick.Oftel(a)toro.com> wrote:
Dave, Personally, I agree with many of the comments
about kettles. I prefer SS because all components
(pump, SS counterflow and tubing) can be cleaned
with the same cleaner. It does transfer heat but a
bit more slowly but I still throttle back my Supurb
burner when doing 14 gallon boils. Usually the
wort is fully boiling about 10 minutes after
finishing runoff.
I also strongly prefer having a false bottom for the
same reason Steve mentioned. It allows using whole
hops and is a great site for crud collection.
Same with the bottom outlet. Whenever you try to
siphon hot liquid, the pressure at inlet and top of
tube decreases which lowers boiling point and can
cause the wort to boil and cavitate the pump. Not a
good thing and it sounds worse than it is.
Converted kegs are also ok but we have had reports
of temperature line fractures - not a good thing.
Then there is strength. Welded constrution vs deep
drawn. Foreign vs domestic. Finally, width vs
height. This is a whole subject worth considering.
Tall brew kettles extract a little more from the
hops. Short mash kettles are also known to work
better than tall. The kettle you found is a great
kettle but a wee bit short. My personal suggestion
would be to get that kettle and replace the outlet
valves with SS.
Best of luck.
Rick
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