Rick,
Excellent write-up. Brewers who are thinking of taking the BJCP classes
should print this out and keep it in their notes folder.
In general, I'm not a fan of RO unless there are some real nasties in
your water supply (like lead). If it was me, I'd buy 5 gals of
distilled H2O and put the activated carbon charcoal (ACC) filter on the
remaining water. Add Phosphoric Acid (H3PO4) at the rate Rick
prescribed below. *Be cautious* with acids! Both in handling and in
their use in the brewery.
I live in Mpls and just changed my water filters. I took a picture of
the rust/sediment (RS) filter for the club archives. We have (had?)
galvanized cold water pipes in the 95yo house. Regular tap water tastes
like sh*t -- not so much fecally, but like metal and chlorine. My
in-line RS-ACC-ACC filter system cleans it up very nicely. There's
almost no rust color in the 3rd filter housing. FYI, I put 2 ACC
filters in-line (not parallel) to effectively increase my flow rate,
which I set at 1 Gal/min with a ball valve, then unscrew the handle so
nobody else can f' it up without malicious intent.
Andrew
--- Rick Oftel <mnbrewing(a)earthlink.net> wrote:
Joe, Blane water is high in temporary hardness which
is great for
making
stouts and poor for making light lagers. I have similar water and
use one
of two techniques to modify the hardness when necessary.
Everything goes through a carbon BLOCK filter. Don't use cheap
activated
charcoal filters because they pass some of the chlorine you want to
remove.
Carbon filters do nothing for mineral content which is also something
you
need to consider when making lighter beers.
The easiest way to modify hardness is with an acid treatment. You
add acid
to change the pH and break down the ionic bond of the dissolved
limestone
(calcium carbonate) into calcium and carbon dioxide. I prefer
phosphoric
acid because it has a very neutral taste. Lactic has a
characteristic
flavor. Usage (don't remember the molar concentration) with my water
(135
grains hardness) is approximately 1 cc per gallon or 1 TBLS per 15
gallon
tank. After adding acid, check pH with a good quality litmus (the
German
plastic style works great). Be careful the first time you add acid
because
for the longest time, pH seems to stay the same. All of a sudden,
when the
buffering capacity is gone, the pH plummets with only a few cc's
being
added.
The slower way to remove acid is with an RO (reverse osmosis) system.
You
pull out all minerals but the expense is the wasted water
(concentrate) that
is usually dumped. For light light pilsners, try using 60-70 % RO
water and
the remainder just filtered. It's a starting point. RO also filters
out
many other contaminates.
If you will be pumping your hot liquor with a centrifugal pump, be
careful -
pH modification create gaseous CO2 that separates in the pump and
causes
cavitation. The best way is to recirculate back into the HLT for a
few
minutes until the cloudy bubbles stop boiling off the water. At this
point,
you can connect the pump up to any restriction because there isn't
any
carbonate left to eliminate. You will see a bunch of white slime at
the
bottom of your HLT or other kettles used for boiling.
Hope this helps.
Rick Oftel
MHBA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe R. Brockman" <jbrockman(a)brockmanbrew.com>
To: <sphbc(a)sphbc.org>
Sent: Friday, March 18, 2005 04:02 PM
Subject: [SPHBC] Water Help!
Hey I have been having troubles with my all grain and I am guessing a
big
part of it is the water as I have had good all grain batches from
every
other place I have brewed. Here is the info I got from the city:
pH - 7.18
pH Saturation - 7.93
Langlier Index - 0.75
Specific Conductance - 330
Alkalinity (mg/L) - 173
Total Dissolved Solids (mg/L) - 179
(Rest are as mg/L)
Flouride - 1.42
Chloride - 1.11
Sulfate - 1.20
Ammonia - .279
Nitrate-Nitrite <.1
Aluminum <.3
Calcium - 43.1
Iron - .338
Magnesium - 12.3
Manganese - .0897
Potassium - <2.5
Sodium - 4.57
Zinc - <.02
Total Hardness - 158
I live in Blaine. Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Thanks,
Joe Brockman
www.brockmanbrew.com
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