Craft brewing pioneer fulfills global quest

BY BOB TOWNSEND

Cox News Service

ATLANTA — Charlie Papazian is a legend in the beer world. Since the 1970s, he has founded or been associated with the Brewers Association, the American Homebrewers Association, the Great American Beer Festival, the World Beer Cup and the home-brew magazine, Zymurgy.

But it's Papazian's pioneering how-to and recipe book "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" that has made him a hero to several generations of beer enthusiasts. And his playful mantra — "Relax. Don't worry. Have a home-brew." — has guided and inspired countless American craft brewer/entrepreneurs, as they turned a hobby into a business.

In his freewheeling new book, "Microbrewed Adventures" (Collins, $15.95), Papazian tells of his travels all over the world in search of great beer, seeking out the "mad brewers" of Belgium, journeying to such far-flung spots as Fiji and Zimbabwe and rediscovering the oldest brewery in the Americas in Ecuador.

Of course, he gathers recipes from most of the places he visits. And he offers plenty of personal perspectives in anecdotes about the founders of modern American craft brewing, including Fritz Maytag of Anchor and Jim Koch of Sam Adams, and the younger "bad boys of beer," such as Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head.

In a recent interview, Papazian talked about "Microbrewed Adventures" and the American beer culture he has chronicled and promoted over the past three-plus decades.

"For me," Papazian said, "the book is about, and my journey has been about, the people who have been involved in brewing — whether they're making traditional light lagers or they're making eccentric, extreme beers. That community has been great to be involved with."

Here are a few more things Papazian had to say:

On the inspiration for the book: "It was an idea that I've had for many years. During my travels, meeting with home brewers and others, people would often suggest I do a travel book. But I wanted to make it relevant to my primary fans, the home brewers, so I have a recipe section."

On his anecdotal style: "It enabled me to get out a lot of my own personal feelings about beer and home brewing and craft brewing. But it also gave me an opportunity to highlight some of the people who I think have been really instrumental to the success of craft beer. They are kind of unsung heroes."

On the image of beer: "When I started the American Homebrewers Association in 1978, there was a stigma to beer in general. People were flabbergasted that I would even consider putting out a magazine about beer. In their words, it was like 'What are you going to write about?' Overcoming that stigma was the work of the '70s and the early '80s. And once craft brewers started to emerge, and home brewers were there to support them, we slowly chipped away at the monolith of the mind-set that beer had no class or personality."

On home brewing and American craft brewing: "It really is substantial how many people who are involved in professional craft brewing in America have their roots in home brewing. It's unlike any other beer culture in the world, really. In other places, it's a career choice that's openly an option that people develop and train for. But here, it's the passion that drives people toward the career."

On big vs. small brewing: "I've always respected the quality of the beers that the large brewing companies have made. The brewers in these companies are just as interesting and have just as much character as any craft brewer. But what they are permitted to do or are able to do in a big company is much more limited."

On his own home brewing: "I still brew five gallons at a time with a simple system of buckets and stainless-steel pots, it's stovetop brewing, basically. Even though I could easily have one of those pilot brewing systems with all the valves and dials, I like the touchy-feely aspect of being one with my beer."