Re: pilsner info

Noonan and Fix both give 122F (50C) as optimimal for protein degradation. Little occurs above 130F. So, if you're resting above 130F then you're avoiding a protein rest and hence your improved foam stability. Good malt and relatively highly modified. >Not sure if I agree about the Protein rest, depending >upon your definition of protein rest. It was my >understanding that the upper stages of the protein >rest ( over 130 and approaching 140 F) actually >enhance the foam stability etc. However my source is >Papazian so maybe he's full of you know what ... >I know since I added that to my mash schedule it seems >to have helped. However, I don't make a lot of >pilsners (or lagers for that matter). Perhaps it is > >Cheers! >WH > >--- Michael Valentiner <mpv(a)yuck.net> wrote: >> You can make a Pilsner with a single step infusion >> mash. It won't be >> the same as if you followed a decoction schedule, >> but it should be >> fine. I don't recommend the protein in a multi-step >> schedule anyway >> (unless you have an under modified malt or have lots >> of Wheat in the >> grain bill). The Pilsner malt available today is >> more highly >> modified than the malt of years ago. A protien rest >> with today's >> highly modified is unnecessary and even detrimental >> as it leads to >> over degradation of the protein. >> >> As for H20, you can use your tap water, but ... If >> your H20 comes >> from a well (i.e, you live in the suburbs), you need >> to remove the >> bi-carbonate to achieve pH in the mash. Even then >> it will be >> unsuitable for the style. You'll be able to taste >> the minerals in >> the final product and Pilsner just doesn't taste >> that way. H20 from >> Mpls (and I suspect StP too) on the other hand works >> well. All you >> need to do is remove chlorine. Acid treatment helps >> to achieve >> proper mash pH, but unless you know what you're >> doing, I wouldn't >> bother until you establish you have a problem that >> needs to be solved. >> >> As for grain bill, I'd lose the biscuit and dial >> back on the munich >> and crystal. They should be limited to no more than >> 10% of the total >> grain bill. A good Pilsner grain bill (assuming >> you're making 5 gal) >> would be just 8.5 lb german pilsner (1048 OG). >> >> Yeast and fermentation temp are important. You want >> lager yeast and >> a lot of it, so make a starter ahead of time and get >> it going so you >> pitch it the high krausen stage. Ferment at 50F for >> three weeks and >> then slowly drop the temp down to 32F, 2F a day. If >> you want to >> speed things up, you can fermentat 50F for two >> weeks, raise to 55F >> for a few days (diacytel reduction), then drop the >> temp. If you >> can't control fermentation temp and have to ferment >> at ale >> temperatures instead, use a clean tasting yeast like >> Chico (WY1056) >> or Alt. >> >> For Hops, use Saaz or Hallertau. You can use >> another neutral tasting >> hop for bittering, but use a lot of Saaz or >> Hallertau in the finish. >> >> >I would like to know if i can do a single step mash >> or >> >do i have to do a multi step for a pilsner >> >8lb german pilsner >> >1lb aromatic munich >> >1lb 40l crystal >> >0.5 biscuit >> >will be using tap water (soft)dont know specs taste >> >good >> >thank you for any advise >> >dion >> > >> > >> >===== >> >from none other than the man >> > >> > DION M FORTIER >> -- >> >> Michael Valentiner, Minneapolis, Minnesota >> mpv(a)yuck.net > > >__________________________________________________ >Do You Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Greetings - Send FREE e-cards for every occasion! >http://greetings.yahoo.com -- Michael Valentiner, Minneapolis, Minnesota mpv(a)yuck.net